Planning A Marine Stereo System

If your boat didn’t come with a factory-installed stereo, don’t suffer in silence. Rock your boat by installing an awesome sound system.

There’s nothing quite like being out on the water with the sun on your face, the wind in your hair, and a great playlist setting the mood. Whether you’re into laid-back island tunes or full-volume rock anthems, the right music can define the entire boating experience. Installing a marine stereo system is a satisfying day or weekend project

that’s within the ability of most DIYers. Taking a little time to plan out the installation beforehand will help ensure you’ll be enjoying the sweet sound of success for years to come.

The Receiver

When choosing a stereo for your boat, you’ll need to consider both the unit and mounting options. In the “old days,” the standard DIN (Duetsche Institut für Normung) stereo was a 7- by 2-inch box that included a CD player. DIN is the size standard for automotive-sized stereos used by the Germans to standardize stereo dashboard cutouts back in the 1980s.

These days, most modern stereos are designed to play audio using digital media sources (via Bluetooth, for example), ranging from music stored in cellphones to satellite streaming services. As no CD player is required, the design and size of modern stereos can vary greatly. Newer radios with more features and larger screens have abandoned the standardized DIN format, resulting in a variety of sizes, cutouts, and installation options.

“Black box” type stereos add yet another dimension to the mix. These units consist of a small box housing the amplifier, radio, and all the wiring connections and are controlled by a waterproof “hockey puck”-style remote mounted in some convenient location (such as at the helm or swim platform). These remote units can also be round and “gauge size” to fit easily into a dashboard, so they take up less helm real estate.

If you’re installing a new stereo (the focus of this article), you don’t have to worry about filling or using an existing opening. This means you are not limited to what’s already there and can install any new radio you like.

If you’re replacing an existing DIN, the cutout left when removing the old stereo is something you’ll need to consider. There are plenty of marine-grade radios that offer a “drop-in” solution to simplify installation of a new unit. If you don’t want to install another DIN, you can also convert your existing DIN opening into a storage compartment or drawer, with inserts available online for around $15. This is a clean option that creates a neat little storage compartment for your phone or other small items, while allowing you to purchase whichever other radio you choose based on the size and features you want.

Features to look for include everything from SiriusXM-ready units to Bluetooth hands-free communication for your Bluetooth-enabled cellphone. Bluetooth hands-free may allow you to minimize distraction by allowing you to control your cellphone from your stereo control head.

A front panel USB port is also handy, allowing you to plug in your smartphone or other device and play MP3 or WMA audio files while also charging the device.

How Dry Am I?

You might logically assume that all marine stereos are waterproof, but that’s not the case. Some units will be fully waterproof; others may be splash-resistant or waterproof only when the faceplate is sealed. Partially waterproof units can have an open chassis that’s prone to water intrusion should moisture find its way past the faceplate gasket. Read the information for any potential stereo purchase thoroughly to ensure you know just how protected it is against moisture.

Unless the unit is completely waterproof, you’ll want to choose a dry location for your stereo that provides as much protection against the elements as possible. “Dry” may be a relative term for smaller, open boats (center consoles and the like), but even so, there will be some locations that provide better protection than others.

Speakers

Speakers will either be flush-mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Flush-mount speakers can be installed in tight, out-of-the-way spaces and present a “cleaner” looking installation. A downside is you must cut a hole in your boat to install. For best frequency response, flush-mount speakers must have sufficient air space around the cone. On the other hand, you don’t want an open-air path behind the speaker, which can reduce bass response. The speaker installation instructions should spell out minimal space requirements and other such requirements for best performance.

Box speakers are an attractive option for a number of reasons: They don’t require cutting holes for mounting, and the box enclosure is already designed and set for optimal performance, meaning you don’t have to worry about the air space around the speaker. The only real downside to box speakers is that they take up more space than flush-mount units.

Speaker Aiming & Positioning

When planning speaker installations, keep in mind that most speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they’re pointed. As such, you want them to be directed to where your ears will be. This isn’t as critical in your car or home (as there are numerous surfaces for the sound to bounce off) but when installed in an open boat, the sound they produce can be easily lost.

Select speaker locations that not only optimize sound but also minimize exposure to water. Stereo sound is way better than mono sound, so choose locations that allow you to hear at least two speakers at the same time. Otherwise, you’ll only be getting half the music experience.

Before You Fire Up That Drill …

Now that you’ve chosen an ideal location for the stereo or speaker, take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk though it in an effort to head off any potential problems. For example, you’ve found the perfect spot for the stereo or remote head, but is there a path to run the control cable or wire bundle?

You’ll also want to be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mounting location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables, or even the hull itself, is never conducive to a good stereo install. This mental walk-through also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job, preventing those extra trips to the chandlery for forgotten items.

The most daunting part of any stereo installation for many is routing wires and cabling. It doesn’t have to be that way, however, if you plan the run first and have the proper tools. One of the handiest tools for pulling wires and cables is an electrician’s “fish tape” or wire snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used. Newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular and a bit safer, as they are nonconductive. Regardless of the type you chose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation