Cordage

Construction

Premium Nylon vs. Standard Nylon

For most docking and anchor lines, standard nylon is a fine choice. It has great strength, "gives" under load to absorb energy, and is relatively inexpensive. It's also easy to handle and resists the harmful effects of sunlight better than other synthetics. Premium nylon is even stronger than standard nylon, experiences far less breakage when subjected to repeat stretching, and is preshrunk and coated with Seagard™ Marine finish for significantly improved abrasion resistance. Treated rope lasts longer because there is less friction between the fibers. We recommend premium nylon for heavier weather docking and anchoring or when you want extra security.

We develop specifications for premium nylon to make it as strong as any comparable rope, and it resists repeated near-destructive surges better than all we tested. At 75% breaking strength (we suggest normal loading should be no more than 25% breaking strength), our rope averaged 40 cycles before it finally parted-eight times longer than other ropes. This means your lines will stay on duty even when stressed well beyond the service intended, resisting big wakes, strong winds, and other challenges. Of course, chafing gear is still recommended. But if it slips or wears through, you will want the best abrasion resistance possible. We think our premium rope is the best product available for this purpose, period.

One other note-our pre-made anchor rodes and docklines made with standard nylon have four-tuck splices and a shrink whip. Premium lines have a five-tuck splice and the bitter end is whipped with twine for a classic finish.

Laid vs. Braid-On-Braid Rope

Laid rope (also called three-strand twist) has been around for years and still enjoys widespread use, especially for docklines. Braided rope is easier on the hands and is slightly stronger. So why use laid rope? For one thing, it's considerably less expensive than braided rope, is easier to splice, and is less likely to be damaged by snagging on wood pilings; hence its continuing popularity for docklines. In addition, laid rope has more stretch and shock-absorption qualities, making it a good choice for anchoring and docking. These characteristics are more forgiving on cleats and are less likely to cause anchor break-out when quickly loaded. The key to quality braid: it's smoothness

When you inspect our braid-on-braid rope, you'll see (and feel) smooth strands with even color and no looped, broken, or non-uniform yarn filaments. High or low strands, found on cheaper braid, increase the rope's stretch and reduce its breaking strength. The same is true of looped strands, which also tend to get ruined quickly by snagging on pilings. With good quality braid, all of the yarns are twisted, wounded, and braided with the same tension. The yarns also have the same shrink and stretch characteristics, and rope that lacks this uniformity soon develops rolls or corkscrews.

The even color and sheen on braid not only looks good, it is a strong indication of quality. Uneven color or sheen is a dead giveaway that the manufacturer took shortcuts that will reduce the rope's durability and increase stretching.

Three- vs. Four-Stage Laid Rope

Four-stage rope made for BoatU.S. is twisted twice in each direction so it's balanced. Every rope starts with fibers, which are then twisted to form yarn. Then the yarns are twisted in the original direction (stage two) to form a mini-strand. These mini-strands are grouped together and twisted in the opposite direction to make one strand. Finally, in stage four, three strands are laid in the opposite direction to form the finished rope. Some manufacturers cut their costs by eliminating stage two, taking yarns directly into strands. Others have developed a less expensive, three-stage process, which skips stage two. While about as strong as four-stage rope, this "unbalanced," three-stage rope is far less durable because there are two stages pulling against one stage. Our four-stage rope feels firm to the hand, takes a good splice, and lasts longer.

To tell the difference, hold one type of rope in each hand. With the four-stage rope you can see the twisted mini-strands; with the three-stage rope, yarns and fibers are loose. Four-stage rope also feels firm when you squeeze it; three-stage feels mushy.

Pre-Shrinking

All line shrinks some when it gets wet. Manufacturers have different methods of pre-shrinking rope to minimize this in-use shrink. Our finished premium three-strand twist is steam set and shrunk in a zero tension atmosphere which insures the rope will be balanced with all the shrinkage removed. In other ropes, the pre-shrinkage process is done in the first or second stage of twisting. At this point, the yarns are under considerable tension and cannot shrink fully, resulting in a rope that will continue to shrink, become hard, and unbalanced with time and element exposure. The difference is dramatic! In tests of laid rope, some of our competitors' products shrank as much as 10% after they got wet. Ours averaged less than 1.5%. With BoatUS rope, you get what you pay for!

Rope Care Tips

• Chafing tape or chafe guards, as well as swivels and shackles, help minimize abrasion caused by cleats, chocks, and blocks.
• The lower limit of the indicated working load range should be used where life or limb is involved or for exceptional service conditions such as shock loads. Never exceed the listed working load range. If your rope is old or worn, make additional allowances to assure safety.
• Rope that is strong enough under a steady strain can be broken with a sudden jerk, so never stand in line with rope under tension. If the rope fails, it could recoil with considerable force, especially if it's made of nylon.
• Any rope will benefit from an occasional bath in warm fresh water. The water lifts out dirt and makes the rope more supple. Some skippers squirt a little fabric softener in the water and then rinse the rope a second time. This also helps to eliminate squeaking.
• All rope is prone to UV deterioration when exposed to the sun. Whenever possible, store rope out of the sun and away from heat, chemicals, and moisture.
• Store your rope on a reel or coiled to prevent knots, kinks, and tangles that reduce strength.
• Avoid kinks by padding sharp angles for safety. Sharp angles greatly affect the strength of rope.
• Reverse rope ends and alternate ropes to prevent isolated wear and extend rope life.

How Much Line Do I Need?

Jib and Genoa Sheets
For the working jib only, you need just slightly more than the length of your boat for each sheet. For genoas, figure 1 1/2 times boat length. If you have a staysail, add in some extra length to accommodate the staysail stay.

Mainsheets
Your best bet is to remove the existing sheet and measure it for a replacement, since there is so much variation in purchase ratios and attachment points along the boom. If you can't get to the old sheet to measure, our Rigging Service can help you figure how much you need. Call 800-398-0112 for assistance.

Spinnaker Sheets
Should be 2 1/2 times the length of the boat. If you use separate afterguys, they should be about 1 1/2 times boat length.