Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

I have a wooden rail around the back side ofthe boat, I can't for the life of me figure out what kind of wood it is.

Ideas?

Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

This is the part I'm talking about.  This isnt my boat, buts its the same model minus a few things.

Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Cuda,

You are right, I think the only exposed wood I have is the cabin door and I too am looking at Starboard or something to replace it with..

sceptre155
The wood in the photo that you are talking about shoucl be Teak, looks like the one in the photo has a finish of some type on it.  That piece of the boat is called the "Covering Board" .  Although teak is beatiful when finished correctly and won't rot, it still requires upkeep and I am trying to eliminate all of that that I can.

Thanks,

Butch

Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

I was thinking the same thing...varnished teak ...but wanted to make sure Cuda gave info on it first.

Although Cuda seems a bit undecided on what you should do with it  , I think that if yours looks as good as the picture you've used, that's pretty good.

Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Teak it is..

I need to redo mine, sand etc.... if it doesnt come out nice I'll see what it looks like without the wood. I would like to keep the rail system tho.

Just tried remounting one of the outdrives I took off.  What a pain in the butt that is !!! After screwing around with it for 30 miuntes I gave up for the afternoon.  Other then lining up the shifter are they any other tricks?

Posted: April 18 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

If you plan to keep the teak, don't throw the sandpaper away.  You'll need it next month.

Posted: April 19 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Teak is that much work eh?

sounds like I should turn it into firewood :)

Soon as I get al of the mechanics of the boat where I want them I'm going to start doing some gelcoat / screw hole filling repairs.

Any tips?

Sceptre

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Well the teak is done.  I'm waiting for some parts so i figured I'd see what it would look like.  Pretty much looks like the pic I posted. So for now I'm going to leave it.  To many other things on the to do list. Maybe when I'm ready to go around and fill screw holes etc... I'll take it off.  I'm leaning towards agreeing with you guys and that it would probably look better without the wooden rails.

Sceptre

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Well, I finished shooting the paint about a month ago.  When it dried, I could see sandpaper marks here and there in it.  I couldn't decide whether to just say it was good enough and move on, or sand it back down to repaint.  Yesterday evening, I was walking past it, and couldn't take it anymore.  I started sanding it back down.

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Any Ideas what I may be looking at for a top speed?

boat weighs about 7000lbs and a tank of gas.

I have no idea what props are on it yet, I suppose that will have alot to do with it.

I'm running two merc 470's, havent checked compression, but they sure do run good.  I'm running a 255 castaway BTW.

I seen a post over at http://www.breezeworks.net/ from rhino finding some roller rockers that work on the 470's. It's probably the first upgrade I'll do to them. Another 6% hp across the board wouldnt hurt I'm sure. Thought about the 4 barrel carb setup,  but I cant decide if I want that kind of a hit on the ole GPH

Sceptre

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Sceptre,

Don't even give that teak a chance to worry you each month.  The original owner varnished the teak on mine, even the swim platform.  23 years later and I'm just now having to re-coat the platform (as in an earlier post).  I could let the rest of the wood ride for another year but I've got the motivation for it now.  I'll be re-varnishing it.  Granted, only the swim platform is where the varnishing has any effect on grip but being young & still agile, I know to mind my steps on it.

I would say that if you just want to mess with it once and not think about it for a few years (and you're not in Southern Florida), you should be able to sand it a bit, coat it a couple of times and be done with it.  It will still look good and you can put the sandpaper away.  If someone wants the raw teak back someday, it can still happen with some sanding.  Teak is pretty tough to hurt.

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

What are people using for anchor box?

As you ca see frrom that pic i post I dont have any :)

I've been thinking about making a wrap around bench seat for the rear that movable.  But inbetween the two corners make a storage box that I could put hte anchor in.

Sceptre

Posted: April 21 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

I use the open storage area on the inside, where it looks like skis are supposed to go. 

I've thought about mounting it down at my feet when driving, against the wall at the helm, but I fear that the board material there may not withstand the weight & hardware very well with out substantial reinforcement.

For now as indicated, I'm keepng it in the open storage "rails" along the gunwales, still attached to the rode, with the line coiled up and snaking under the bench seat.

I have the fixed bench seat on the back along with sunpad though, similar to Cuda's.

I wonder if temporarily, (in advance of the moveable bench seat) you could build a small cabinet to store it in that mounts to either of the sides under that wood rail, towards the back corner.

Posted: April 22 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

That sucks about the sand marks Cuda.  The sanding part probably goes quick. Shooting it on the otherhand.

The other thing about that bench seat Idea was I really need some additional seating.

Well last night I went for the gold and tore out the entire enterior of the boat.  I'm redoing all the cushions etc... when I noticed that when I looked in the starboard side storage compartment in the eating area that things were just not right.

The bottom of the compartment had some shoddy looking fiberglass work in the bottom.  basically it looked like a section that didn't matter as to what it looked like, rough surface etc.. Thinking that formula would me alittle more professional about it I checked the port side. And yes, that looked much better. Then I started looking closer to details. the walls surrounding the head were seperated from the hull by about 3/4 of a inch. 

Thats right houston, she hit something..HARD.  By the looks of the repair it was done a long time ago.  The outside of the Hull looks brand new. I couldnt find any indication at all of it being hit.  I'm not going to worry bout it. I tried pushing on things pretty hard and didnt see any give in anything. plus the waters I ride in hardley ever get waves bigger then 2 feet.  But I am going to finish the inside compartment so that its totally sealed.  Boat history yay !

As far as the head liner I was thinking of using some 3m contact cement to reattach the soime loose areas. Any reason I should use 3M contact cemet? or is there something else I should use?

Sceptre

Posted: April 22 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Robert,

 I only go over if I'm in a hurry and all I have to carry with me now (since learning the smart way here) is the rope.

As you can see by the pic, it's easier to go around, but your's might be set up differently.

Can you tell me what you mean by not solid in the middle?

Posted: April 27 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Hey guys, long time no post here....

Been deep into a "transformation" of my F233

Here's a coupla links where you can see what I have been doing.  What do you guys think?  I know, she's no longer Original and "Unmolested", lol.

http://www.arctekmarine.com/Fintage.htm

http://www.sportfishermen.com/board/showthread.php?t=1079

Posted: May 06 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

The upholsterer finished my sundeck. It looks fantastic! I don't know if you can tell from the picture, but the bird is like a padded vinyl, so it stands out from the seat a bit. I like it.

There is one problem. I'm sure glad I took Debbie with me to pick it up. While I was paying for it, she found a spot where it looks like it was drug across something or sewn against or something. Anyway, I showed it to the guy, and he's going to redo the whole thing. I brough it home anyway to double check the fit since he has to do it over anyway. Next time I better wear my glasses when I'm inspecting stuff.

Posted: May 06 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Careful Cuda....

The "family" from Indiana is going to kidnap you and make you one of their own...

Seriously, that's friggin awesome! 

Pretty good of Deb to see that and of the person doing the work to remedy it.

Have a good weekend all!

Posted: May 06 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Only if they plan on relocating to Florida!

Posted: May 07 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Hey Double E,

First let me compliment you on a beautiful looking boat. It looks great!! I hope mine will look like yours when I am done. The bow/windshield and rails configurations look like mine. There's a little give about an inch(pressing down from the top of the the midddle of the windshield). Is that normal? By the way, Formula did not make user manuals for my model. I picked up the boat a week ago, and planning on working on it. I already ordered the decals from Formula, and they didn't have a replacement fuse panel because mine looked worn out with green tarnish all over it. Some things don't work (i.e. horn, radio, interior lights and courtesy lights), and I figured I mind as well change the fuse panel and go from there. Any suggestions on where I can find a replacement panel? Thanks.   Bob    

Posted: May 09 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Thanks Bob!  Now if grad school classes will ever end this spring, I'll be able to get it in the water once or twice.  (I'm tired of studying so I'm taking the summer off to be more like Cuda.)

Mine didn't have a manual either and I don't think the original owner got one either.  I just have the service manual for the engine and outdrive by a second source (like Haynes or Chiltons) and the Sales brochure from the vintage formula site.

I understand that Formula can be contacted for assistance with wiring diagrams for some older models but the chances for mine and yours are probably slim.

That windshield sounds like it has at least twice the flex of mine.  I'm not sure what to look at regarding how to go about tightening it back up.

I would like to think that you could take that fuse panel down, remove the parts from it as much as possible, and put the corroded metal (green parts) in some CLR water stain remover.  Let them soak for a bit, scrub with a toothbrush, rinse and see how it comes out.  If the metal parts still have enough integrity to hold shape, it should work fine.  Use some "di-lectric" grease for the reassembly.  That ought to get you buy until a new one is found (if you still need it) and at least through the troubleshooting of each component.  I forget what sort of fuse panel it is but would generic one from a boat supply store work?

Let me know if when you get to the horns (twin AFI units?) they work or not.  I may be able to offer help on getting them operational again.

Posted: May 10 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Hey Folks,

Not to change the subject but I just ran into a problem that was unexpected.  Just about finished the interior rebuild on my F20 and while replacing the fuel fill hose in the engine compartment, I found some rotten wood in the stringers next to the engine. My engine is not supported by these stringers, the engine supporting brackets are actually mounted to the bottom of the boat. 

My question is once I determine how bad it is, has anyone ever used this Seacast or Git Rot on something like this, or should I bite the bullet, tear the floor up and replace the damaged stringer ('s) itself. The floor is solid and appears to have been replaced recently, just didn't go far enough.  I don't really mind doing the work, but I was at the point of launching this thing next week after doing a lot of interior work, ready to start enjoying it. I am sure that Cuda or some others have ran into this before. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Butch

Posted: May 10 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Butch,

Change the subject anytime you have a need/concern.  We'll still follow along with Bob & others, no problem.

Cuda is da man for that sort of stuff.  I have a self-concerning follow-up question though.  Was yours often used in saltwater?

More to the point, are you able to determine what caused that particular section to be an issue? As you know, mine is close to the same age and I want to be on the look out for like things.  (It will be a long drive to Florida to have Cuda fix it if so.)

I also wonder if Sceptre Or Maksumm (Mike Summers in Annapolis, MD) has any experience with what options there are and what's best.

Posted: May 12 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Here's my contribution to the forum.  1978 233 Interceptor, twin 355 CID Chevys. Completely refurbished in 1994. Solid as a rock and great on the big water of Lake Huron.  By the way, I'm repropping the boat.  I've been running 23" hydromotives and 23" round ear Thunderbolts.  Thinking Mirage Plus.  Any suggestions appreciated.  More pictures at http://usera.imagecave.com/DKT/

Posted: May 12 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Daggumit that’s sweet!  I love the twin motors.  Is it difficult to work on?

Welcome on!  We’re really glad you’ve dropped in on us.

Help me out with that exhaust setup…does it really send water and exhaust over the swim platform?

Can you tell me how much a trailer like that would sell for new and/or used?

That yellow reminds me of Fintage and Cuda’s.  I never thought much of a yellow boat ‘till I saw how you guys make them look so good.

One more question (from a previous topic) how do you weigh anchor;  tossing it over and then carrying the bitter end to the bow I guess, ....but do you go over or around the winshield (or even through the hatch)?

Ever thought about chopping your bow rail down about 4 inches?  I’ve considered it but will probably never get serious about it.  I can imagine the resulting look of the bow would be pretty sweet.

Be sure to look over the previous postings to get to know everyone.

Again, Welcome On!!!!

Posted: May 12 2005 at 00:00 | IP Logged

Double e,

 I responded the other day to your reply, but it didn't take. The reason for the rot,after further inspection, appeas that when prior owner replaced the decking, good looking job by the way, didn't take it far enough.  In the engine compartment area, the deck covers thestringer and stops, should have glassed over the stringer and all the way to the bottom of the hull.  The way it is now water can and has , run under the deck between the stringer and deck and into the stringer via srew holes holding the deck down as well as bedind the stringer whare I have no access (YET).  looks like I can replace the section of stringer ajacent to the engine, without removing the floor as long as I don't find any other surprises, I'm still in the exploration stage. After talking to some local boat builders, think I will cut a new stringer to fit, pull it out, completely cover it with glass and resin and epoxy it into place. Shouldn't be that hard once i reveal all the damaged wood, looks like I'll have to start stocking up on beer.

Thanks,

Butch