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Trojan
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Trojan
Subject Topic: Rick’s Rehab II.......Merry Christmas! Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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Coralkong
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Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: December 11 2006 at 16:23 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Geez, talk about hijacking a thread, huh?

Anyway, Rick, you mean to tell me you can't refinish (stain, do whatever) to the flexiteek?

Ruh-Roh.

Well, at least it will be solid, and you'll know what you've got.

I've seen many boats (including Tojans) with "mixed" teak on their boat (meaning natural and finished). While not MY personal style, it looks fine, and is very functional!

Just got my new oil cooler in the mail today. (Bought it off of Ebay for cheap! Uh, hope it fits (I think it will).

Uh, anybody ever install an oil cooler before? Seems to me I'm going to have to remove at least one oil feed tube from where it hits by the oil filter. Super.

I need to spray-paint it, because it came in grey primer. Do I need to paint it with "Hi-temp" paint or do you think standard black gloss spray-paint (think I actually have some Merc Phantom Black) be good enough?

Thanks.

 

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 12 2006 at 11:06 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Hijack away

I am not sure you can do anything to the Flexiteak, because it has the white calking in it that you would stain too. I think I am going to install a new teak deck and be done with it, the price will be around the same except for all the work involved. I am with you, mixed finished would look tacky to me and I wont have it.

Are you talking about the oil cooler for the drive, If so, did you get it from a company, if so, would you please pass on the information as to where to go. I think I need to change my cooler, when I was in that area getting the boat stored, my hand had a lot of water and rust on it and it came from the outside of the cooler. For me , It is not going to be easy to change.

As for painting, I am sure you donít need to use Hi-temp paint Merc paint should be fine, if you get the cooler that hot the oil would be burnt. Isnít that Merc paint engin/outdrive paint anyway.



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Coralkong
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Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: December 12 2006 at 13:12 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

It is black outdrive paint. I think you're right, it really holds raw water, so I can't imagine it gets anything more than "warm". (It is to cool the engine oil, raw water passes through it on the way to the raw water pump on the engine).

It won't be hard to get to (relatively speaking, of course), but changing the oil lines out kind of has me stumped. The lines come out of the oil filter housing, run down into the cooler, then back to the oil filter housing. The "nubs" on the cooler end screw in. I don't know how they're attached at the housing end. I seem to recall some sort of "crimp" looking connection, but I didn't pay that close attention to it on my last visit.)

I think I paid $72 for the part, including shipping, which is pretty stinking cheap to what a dealer wants (closer to $150!).  It looks to be close enough to where I can make it work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& ;viewitem=&item=320058471580

That's the link to the actual item I bought. My engine is a US Marine Power, not a Merc, but it looks basically the same.

 

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 15 2006 at 08:13 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Thanks I am going to check that out, my cooler only cools oil for the drive

 

Hey guys I have been thinking.

I have a single engin in my boat and she is a bit to back up, at least at this time because I am a new-bee. What if I were to install three nozzles below the water line ( yes with shut-offs) one port, starboard ,and one aft. Run a pressure pump off the engin using a electronic clutch locked out with rpm above 1000. Install a servo valves on each of the nozzles, build the circuit to control the valves with a joy-stick and presto I could turn the boat on a dime in any direction with little cost

What do you think



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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 15 2006 at 11:00 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Ok this is a picture of the Trojan the day I put her in the water after being dri-docked for three years. The teak swim platform I removed for re-finishing before she went into the water. She is only a 26ft er



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Coralkong
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Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: December 15 2006 at 11:27 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Looks good!

As for your other idea, well, that's pretty wild...

As a bit of an electronics buff it certainly sounds interesting, however, you're breaking rule #1:

No holes under the water line! (Nevermind 3!)

Recipe for disaster, imho.

Your boat looks nice for sitting for 3 years. It looks almost like a "miniature" version of mine in the front (down to the windows!).

 

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 15 2006 at 12:49 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Being a new-bee not sure what all the rules are, I am sure most of them were made by a bunch of stuffed shirts whom wouldnít know what a blister is. LOL Could you please point me in the direction of the rules that I seam to come up with the ides to break so often, I am thinking I should be aware of them.

I understand the idea of no holes below the water line, servo valves at the fitting wouldnít allow water back into the hull if the line was severed of removed.. Hitting a snag would likely happen before a drop of water would enter into the hull from this kind of fitting. If that is the case than the raw water pickup should be removed, the drive , well you get my drift. Hell a rubber boot around an outdrive is a catastrophic failure waiting to happen so please where is the logic.

Okey what is #3

Thankís you should see her now, she is even better. When I understand more about water navigation , I will bring her down your way.



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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 21 2006 at 10:10 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Well it seems as usual I have ruffled some feathers , I think that sometimes this cant be helped if you are out there being an open book. I rather be dis-liked for whom I am than liked for whom I am not.

The Idea I have to solve the maneuvering of my Trojan is novel and would be less of a danger than cutting a large hole in the bow of you boat to install a thruster that could be a large breach in the hull of the boat being sheered of from debris, However this is ok it appears with ABYC. What I have in mind would fail to the positive and could not interfere with the integrate of the hull like a thruster.

Yes, I am a geek if you will, and will be installing this Idea I have in my boat, because I am absolutely positive it would work superbly, regardless of any ABYC recommendations for codes, not that I would need there approval to do what I want anyway.

I am the owner manufacture of Contain A Pet, with a vast background in electro/mechanical design ,military and civilian. Therefore, I could sleep soundly with any thing I would design and install in my boat.

Every one have a Very Merry Christ mas



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RWS
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Joined: July 17 2006
Posts: 18
Posted: December 22 2006 at 06:56 | IP Logged Quote RWS

Rick:

While there is some skill involved using propwalk and the rudder, many folks have successfully dealt with single screw vessels. Based on your level of experience, I strongly suggest  suggest you pick up  a copy of CHAPMANS at your local chandelry. You will find clear cut details regarding single screw boat handling as well as a tremendous wealth of additional information.

Hope you are able to enjoy a wonderful holiday season.

Get that Chapman's and be up to speed  for your approaching boating season.

RWS

 



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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 22 2006 at 07:21 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Thank you RWS

I will find this Chapman's you speek of.

That is funny , I have the 64th edition Chapman (Piloting & Seamanship) that was given to me that I havenít picked up till now. Thank you, I was given this book for my intrest in learning to plot using nautical Charts.

Falling off the wind, does that mean the bow of the boat will swing to point in the direction the wind is blowing to? Or will it point to 90deg angle to the wind direction all the time. This is what happened to me when I was taking her out from the slip I couldnít get the bow to turn port to get headway. I tried to goose the stern to swing starboard but the wind would just blow me back to 90deg. People on there boats had me come close to them so they could bush my bow over than it was ok. Where I dock is very tight to turn my little 26ft er for someone that has been doing it for a long time.

Thanks again



Edited by Rick1954 on December 22 2006 at 08:34


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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 26 2006 at 08:29 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

I hope everyone had a very nice Christmas day out there in Trojan-Land and beyond.

The one thing I asked Santa was the thing I wanted most (no it wasnít the air rifle) (ya I know I would put my eye out) it was SPRING. Didnít happen I am just going to have to wait.

Hello am I the only one out there?



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Coralkong
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Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: December 28 2006 at 16:23 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Nope, we're still here.

Just hibernating....

Going down to work on the old boat on Saturday.

Come on spring!

 

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Coralkong
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Posts: 63
Posted: December 28 2006 at 20:20 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

OK,,,,I have not posted a response, Rick,

because your idea is outrageous!

There, I've said it.

While my idea of dropping in a portable generator seemed out there, this one is over-the-top.

While I am sure your control of a solder gun is quite commendable, the fellow that buys this boat from you now has 3 MORE HOLES IN THE HULL to deal with. While I am sure you back your work 100%, I'm willing to bet you'd have to experiment with pump pressures (among other things) to make it work.

Oh, and I'm willing to wager that some will leak. Sooner or later, they're GONNA leak.

I bet it's gonna be a bigger problem than you think, and more $$$ than you think. WAY more money than you think.

Overall, I say "NAY".

You need to get better control on reversing into your slip. If it ain't you, then something has to be adjusted or fixed.

Seriously, bigger, twin-motor boats are easier in some regards, but generally the beam is MUCH wider, so it eliminates a bit of the "no-brainer" thing.....In a brisk wind in can be a bit of a chore to "walk" a twin into the slip, vs. a single you can just "aim-and-gun", or just pull it in with a boat-hook.

Much more difficult to push a "yacht" off the piling while under twin 454 big blocks!

 

I don't mean to pee on your parade, by all means. But pick some other project. Hey, you want an adventure? Try pulling up the dash, or tackle the head! (always a good time!)

 

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: December 29 2006 at 08:17 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Actually. I am very proficient with a solder (Iron) however, donít use one much only during design, my employees do all of the soldering for me.

The pump pressure is variable to change the thrust needed to deal with currents, and windís

I have to agree with you that sooner or later the valves would leak, however, no more than the stuffing box and rudder packing in 100% of the boats on the water today, you donít see them going to Davie Jones do you.

The cost of this design is a fraction of the cost for a thruster.

Well as with everything you have people that say "YEA and NAY" thank to whomever the NAY hardly ever win, what a world it would be if they did.

Absolutely need to get a handle on the operation of my boat under all end every condition with out the help from outside force such as this system. It really isnít that hard to get her into the slip if you just pay attention and think ahead like chess, and donít get cocky.

You didnít pee on my parade, I value you input to me regardless good or bad, just wish your input would come sooner.

Already done the dash thing as I explained in prior posts, it was a mess with hundreds of feet of wire running all over the boat. Also had to clean and rebuild the fuse block assembly.

The head I removed early fall because the bulkhead behind was delaminating for some reason. It was only the top layer under the vinyl. I removed the layer and fiber-glassed the whole bulkhead up to the deck line, she is solid now.

Have Fun

 

 

 

 

 

 

.



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