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David Ross
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Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: October 04 2007 at 21:21 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Emory and Banjoman,

I think I mixed up who I was answering. Emory wanted to know what diameter the exhausts are (they are 8 inches) and I meant to ask Emory if he was using rubber or stainless elbo's. You both probably figured that out.

 



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David Ross
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Posted: October 04 2007 at 21:40 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete

I believe I have the same washer/dryer combo that is on your boat. I'll check this week end. I'll check for the manual at the place you suggested. I think I only want the basic manual to add to my appliance folder.

                        



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Fantasy
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Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: October 04 2007 at 22:10 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Dave,

If the wiper arm spring is the same as mine, I may have a spare for you.  I rebuilt my arms and used ANCO parts, which are readily available.  I also have a users manual for the washer dryer but it doesn't have a lot of technical info.

See you this weekend,

John



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Pete37
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Posted: October 04 2007 at 22:57 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Since your 30 amp plug supplies AC power the circuit breaker should be somewhere on the AC breaker panel in the lower salon.  Plug a light or something into the 30 amp plug and then turn off breakers until you find the source of power.  There should be a label on the breaker.

Pete37



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Furman1
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Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: October 05 2007 at 09:15 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

To all:

One other thing that I've done that you may want to consider.  I had trouble with water collecting on the flybridge since the boat sits a little bow down when at dock.  In the port and starboard inside corners of the flybridge I took a dremil tool and cut a small (1 1/2 inch) have circle in both corners and a matching half circle in the outside of the flybridge forward of that.  I then took a 1 1/2 inch piece of PVC pipe and split it down the middle. I inserted this 1/2 piece of pipe thru both openings to create a chanel for water to drain forward and not collect.  to make these pipe sections water tight I caulked them with white silicone. On the part under the flybridge I was able to caulk them on the outside of the pipe.  Now when it rains or I wash the boat water doesn't collect there.  Something you might do if you have the same problem. 



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Banjoman
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Posted: October 05 2007 at 09:49 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Dave - I plan on using the Trident rubber elbows.  Doubt that I'll get to it before next Spring as my main issue right now is getting those doggoned engines to run to full rpm.

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David Ross
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Posted: October 05 2007 at 12:26 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi John,

Guess I should have checked with you first. Thanks. See you this weekend.

Dave

 



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Delaware Jim
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Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: October 05 2007 at 16:18 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Thanks for the information on the wipers - 2 of the three on my boat are currently non functioning.  When tested, they move about 1/4 inch then stop.  This suggests the motors might be OK, but the corrosion has gotten to the shafts.  This another one of the fall/winter projects to do!

 

David, I have the Frigidaire washer/dryer instructions on the boat.  I'll get a copy made and give them to you when I see you.

 

I also appreciate the thoughts about the parquet making the salon "dark".  We have a new flooring store open near us and I thought I'd look around a bit before doing anything.  Emery (banjoman), you sent pix of your beautiful Holly/Teak galley floor last summer when we were talking about the trash compactor question.  The only question I have about a floor with inlaid strips is there are many hatches which need to be "framed" - this might be a real "bear" to match all the inalid strips in the many hatches.  My carpet was laid with tackless strips, which may allow some "flexibility" in pulling up and putting back down.  The heavy sofa may be a problem, though as I think it is sitting on top of a hatch on the starboard side...

 

On other notes, the eye surgery (laser stuff) was done this AM - the retina swelling will still take a couple of weeks to go down, but I'm hopeful...

Thkans again to everyone on this thread - I've already learned much about my wonderful Connie!

 

Delaware Jim

 



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Furman1
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Posted: October 05 2007 at 17:00 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Jim Teak and Holly flooring can be bought in 4x8 sheets like plywood. 1/4 inch thick.  world panel products has it for about $200 per sheet

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Pete37
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 01:40 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Delaware Jim,

Glad to hear your eye surgery was successful and hope that you are fully recovered very soon.

I would estimate that more than half of the Connies have some defunct windshield wipers.  It's just something that we rarely think about.  Fortunately, from what I have seen of the guts of the wiper system, the motors are well protected from moisture and should be functional.  It's the wiper blade shaft that's rusted to its housing.  And since there are no replacements that we know of, that requires care and patience to get them running smoothly again without breaking something.  Good luck.

One of the problems with parquet, aside from its dark color, is that there are five engine room hatches to lift.  That means at least 6 fore and aft slits in your floor and at least two athwartships slits.  That's not including the four slits for the generator room hatch.  If you trim the slits with aluminum you will need 24 trim strips and your floor will look like a trolley car roundhouse.  If you use wood trim your floor will look better (although still messy) but you'll need a pro to put it in. 

If you don't trim the parquet you will probably have splintering in a very short time.  And of course you will need six hatch pulls in the floor.  Parquet with that many hatches to lift is going to be a mess.  And keep in mind that the hatches have to be stored somewhere when they are removed.  And that place usually winds up being your shiny varnished parquet floor. The parquet hatch in the galley floor has wood trim and seems to have held up well but that was put in by a pro and also is relatively small and light.  Your engine room hatches are pretty large and heavy.

Wall to wall carpeting is easy to roll back if not nailed down and has a much better appearance.  It also is an important source of noise and heat insulation.  Another important function of the carpet is that it keeps the furniture from sliding around in a seaway.  Parquet won't do that.  Properly laid carpet will have no slits except for the generator room hatch.

Remove all your tackless strips and the carpet will roll back out of the way. The tackless strips are not needed.  The carpet will stay in place without them.  You may want to put one short slit between the dinnette carpet and the lower salon carpet because you probably don't want the dinnette carpet to roll back too. 

BTW, the heavy sofa, if it's original equipment, does not rest on any of the engine hatches.  But you will probably want to move it anyway to provide adequate working space if you are working on the starboard engine.  Regardless of how you do your floor don't expect to be able to get at more than one engine at a time.  There is too much furniture (the heavy sofa, etc) to allow the hatches above both engines to be accessed simultaneously unless you remove all the furniture from the lower salon.

Another way to handle the floor is to have it tacked down with seams around each hatch.  But there are two problems with this.  First, it makes for a very messy looking floor.  The second problem is that after a very short time the engine openings develop a heavy moustache from having tools and engine parts dragged through them.  And that's true even if you are very fussy about putting down drop cloths, etc.  Engines require maintenance and old engines require an awful lot of maintenance.  And diesels are the dirtiest engines ever created.

Beware the flooring store men.  They are so accustomed to putting flooring in houses that they just can't imagine any other way of doing it.  And household flooring techniques don't always work well in boats.  For example, they just can't imagine putting in a carpet without tacking it down.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 06 2007 at 01:45


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Delaware Jim
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 09:03 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Pete,

The existing blue carpet is showing some wear and will need to be replaced within the next year or two anyway.  The sofa is not original and may or may not be on a hatch - I need to further check this.  I am planning to pull up a section from the port side (neart the stairs) down to the dinette for access to the port engine hatches and see how that goes.  I currently have two hatches cut out in this carpet - the generator hatch and the small center hatch in the engine compartment to check oil, etc.

I'd originally thought of parquet in the idea of "matching" the existing galley flooring.  I had planned to "picture frame" each hatch like the galley hatch is done - time consuming, but works well...  I would not likely put pulls on most of the hatches as long as they can be pushed up from underneath when service is needed. I agree all those pulls would not be very attractive! The plan was some sort of an area rug over the bulk of the area anyway.  I like your idea of noise/temperature control as well.  This one will require some additional thought.

On other notes, I have determined the 110V AC panel was rewired by the former owners, but may be "salvagable".  Buss 1 and Buss 2 carry most of the load of the boat (all AC units, range, washer/dryer) while Buss 3 carries only the hot water heater and refrigerator.  Shore Power 1 powers buss 1 AND buss 2, while shore power 2 powers ONLY buss 3.  I am thinking about moving buss 2 from shore power 1 to shore power 2, thereby much better splitting the load between the 2 AC line possible into the boat.  One day when I can shut down all AC for a couple of hours, I plan to open up the panel and inspect to see how much problemn this will be.  Also, I am planning on installing an inverter, so I need to figure out how to switch this safely into the system.  Which reminds me - has anyone located batteries in any location OTHER than the engine room between the engines? 

Finally, a question on storage of spare props.  After my debacle in Florida of tearing up the just redone props and waiting a week for repairs, I purchased a backup set.  Prior owners set up a storage spot under the forward double berth, but the weight of both props there gave the boat a definate port list.  I have one there nbow and the other under the berth in the "office" (small aft stateroom).  Does anyone have any ideas where are other locations to store spare props?

 

THANKS!

Delaware Jim



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Furman1
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Posts: 227
Posted: October 06 2007 at 10:31 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Jim, as far as the carpet is concerned I removed mine and put parkay. I did trim the openings and put in recessed pulls. IMHO I think it looks very nautical. (as it is a boat) I did add 1 inch of lead foam sound and heat insulation with a pegboard cover.  This area gives us a place that guests and kids can spill and not be a problem as it is generally the gathering place (near the galley).

When I bought the boat it came with spare props. They are mounted on the forward bulkhead in front of the starboard engine on a 3/4 in stainless threaded rod with wooden spacers.

I am in the process of installing a 3 kw inverter.  For me the easist way to have it work is to install a subpanel.  I am disconnecting the connections for the refrig, outlets, lighting etc. from the main panel and connecting them to the subpanel.  I am placing the subpanel in the panel left of the main power panel.  All the wiring run to the main panel through this area so all of the wires will be long enough. I am placing the inverter in the generator room against the starboard wall. This is to make the house battery runs as short as possible. (my house batteries are directly in front of the starboard engines) I am leaving the existing charger in place and connected but powered down. In case the inverter fails.  Now back to the subpanel, I am powering the subpanel with a 30 amp breaker ran from the main panel to the inverter then back to the subpanel. This will allow the auto switch on the inverter to act as a charger, when it sees power and a inverter when it doesn't.  I am also adding a bypass switch to take the inverter out of the system if it fails. This will allow me to continue to get power to the subpanel in case something goes bad in the inverter (just cheap insurance) I think that is fairly clear but email me if not.



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Delaware Jim
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 10:53 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Furman,

Thanks for your thoughts on the prop storage and the inverter.  I know the water pressure tank sticks through the starboard bulkhead and a "whole boat" water filter canister is also mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead as well.  I like that idea, though and may consider a means to store then there.

The electric sub panel sounds like a good idea, but rather complex and expensive.  Initially, I thought this was a "lot of effort" approach, but it does have the advantage of simplicity in operation - you will not have the inadvertant switch thrown and consuming LOTS of battery power for something like the water heater.  Also, you mentioned an automatic connect from the inverter... need to conceptualize how that might work out... This is good food for thought...

One other thought - I currently have 2 of the air condition/heat pumps not functioning and the ice maker in the upper salon.  With the age of the equipment and prices/availability of service, I am planning to take the training course and obtain the certification to legally buy R-22 and other refrigerants.  My feeling is if I can learn the stuff (I started college in Engineering school...) and fix them, I'm money ahead; if I can't, they were "non op" anyway, so no big loss...  Has anyone else tried the "self service" approach to on board refrigeration systems?

Delaware Jim



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Pete37
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 11:25 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Jim,

The aft edge of the engine hatches is about 1" forward of the steps leading from the upper salon to the lower.  If your sofa extends beyond this it is resting on the hatches.  But it really doesn't matter.  Whenever you work on the starboard engine you are going to have to move the sofa and other furniture to the port side of the salon.  There just isn't enough room to work on the starboard engine without moving the furniture away.

If you put an area rug over the engine hatches you have covered up nearly all of the lower salon and parquet you have installed.  What's the point of putting in parquet and then immediately covering it up?  The engine hatches extend the entire width of the lower salon.  Their front edge is about 20" aft of the refrigerator cabinet and their aft edge is at the bottom of the stairs to the upper salon.  Your "so called" area rug is going to be humongus covering up nearly all of the lower salon.  And of course it has to be rolled back when you open the hatches.  It will, in a practical sense, be nearly wall to wall carpeting.

The AC wiring panel is a very messy subject.  The loading you talk about sounds similar to most Connies.  I think you should look at some other Connies to really see whether the previous owner has made any major changes.    

Strangely, Connies are set up for three 125 volt 50 amp circuits.  Two are in the 50 amp 4 wire 125/250 volt cable that goes to Shore Power 1 and the third is in the 50 amp 3 wire 125 volt cable that goes to Shore Power 2.  But normally, owners have only one 50 amp 4 wire 125/250 volt cable running to the boat and in most cases it is quite adequate.  In this case, through a complex system involving relays and switches Buss #3 becomes an extension of Busses #1 and #2.  Therefore, the loading on #2 plus #3 is set up to roughly balance the loading on Buss #1.

The 50 amp, 3 wire 125 volt cables are quite uncommon and very few marinas have them.  If you are lucky, your slip is wired to accept the second 125 volt 3 wire cable but most aren't.  In most cases when traveling the best you can do is to use an adapter to plug into 30 amp 3 wire 125 volt plugs which are very common.

You could rip out the present Shore Power 2 system and replace it with a second 50 amp 4 wire 125/250 volt system thereby providing 200 amp survice to your boat.  But the system is only set up for a max of 150 amps so the changes would be massive and very expensive.  Also you would find that when cruising, that slips with 200 amp service are scarce as hen's teeth.  About all you can expect is 100 amp service.  Or you could simply use adapters to connect your present 50 amp 3 wire 125 volt Ships Service 2 cable to 3 wire 30 amp 125 volt plugs and/or 1 side of a 50 amp 4 wire 125/250 volt plug.  In practice owners usually find that their boats work fine on Ships Service 1 alone.

The inverter would probably be wired in parallel to the generator with a switch to change between inverter, generator and shore power. 

Yes, some people have moved their batteries to other locations in their engine room.  Furman was talking about his changes a few days ago.  The main reason for doing so seems to be to free up the space used by the batteries for sewage and/or extra fuel tanks.

The spare props are usually stored on a spindle in the generator compartment forward of the generator which is on the port side.   This adds to the port list just as the location under the bunk does. 

The props aren't the reason for the list to port.  The main reason is that the generator which weighs about 1,000 lbs. is mounted with its center of gravity about 3 feet to port of the keel.  This  creates a tilting moment of about 3,600 ft. lbs. Your props don't really affect this situation very much.

Every Connie I have ever seen lists to port and this causes the annoying puddling on the starboard deck.  I have finally trimmed out my boat by adding 200 lbs. of chain to a starboard locker and running with 50 gallons more fuel in the starboard saddle tank than the port.  Total correction is about 550 lbs at 6 feet for 3,300 ft lbs.  This seems to trim out the list and eliminate most of the puddles.  It is important to eliminate the list if you can because the decks are cored and standing puddles of water increase the probability that water will intrude into the core.

Water can also be drained off the decks with additional drain pipes but this does not eliminate the cosmetically annoying list and does not correct any of the cabin leakage problems.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 06 2007 at 12:10


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Monopoly1954
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 12:19 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Good Morning Pete,

I have the inverter and and two inverter 8d batteries are in the compartment just forward of the generator compartment. It seems to work well. I run the ref, water pump and one outlet off the  inverter.  I have a voltage problem at the dock...I am hoping the  inverter saves the  ref burn out.

I do not have list to port. I have measured the boat and it is level in the water or the stripe is off....lol I do not carry spare props...only one half shaft in the engine compartment.

I have changed the galley around. I have the ref where the stove and microwave were. I put a stove/oven and dishwasher where the ref was. I put a counter above stove and dishwasher about 18 inches above the galley counter. I built in the microwave and the  toaster oven in the backsplash above the  stove and dishwasher. The last little  detail was building in a  trash  container  into the counter  next to the  ref. With the ref out of the way it opens up the galley to the lower salon and gives it a very open look. The extra counter space helps when entertaining.

As to the parquet, I installed the parquet floor after buying the boat. I would do it again. With the galley opened up and the parquet matching the galley floor it makes  the space have continuity. I kept the lines equal to the galley and I put in borders with each   hatch. A recessed pull was put into each hatch. I added lighting to the lower salon. I added another 2' tube on each side. This brighten the galley and the table area. I installed a brighter light over the table 240W. With all the lights on it is a bright as day.

I was wondering the dimensions of the 160 gallon  fuel tank between the  engines. I would consider moving my  batteries  in front of each engine to have more fuel  on board. 

I was reading about someone doing the big loop. This subject interests me. I was wondering how long it takes  and what about the bridge heights. I have a radar arch with radar  and  sat tv domes.  I think I am about  23 feet out of the water. I was  looking to take a cruise to Buffalo and discovered  one bridge on the erie canal was only about 9 feet.  I know there is a  way  north prior to that bridge but know little else about it. If anyone has done the research and would share I would be greatfull. 


I was happy to hear the eye surgery  went well. Hope everyone is well.

Corey Finkelstein




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Corey Finkelstein
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MONOPOLY
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Pete37
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 12:52 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Jim,

Air conditioners aren't too complex to fix.  The main problem is recharging them if the compressor breaks down.  Control circuitry can be checked by swapping in a control board that you know is working.  And fans can be checked by simply applying power to them.  My experience with A/C repairmen has been pretty good so far.  Compressors, BTW aren't fixed. They are sealed units that are just replaced.  But again, the main problem is recharging them.  That takes some special equipment and skill.

If you are under cover you may get by with three air conditioners but if you are in an open slip you will probably need all five.  The upper salon cannot be kept cool in the open on a hot summer day with 1 A/C so you'll need both of those.  And the lower salon A/C is essential.  And you'll need the master cabin A/C if you expect to get any sleep.  That makes 4 A/Cs that are probably essential.  The only one which may be non-essential is the forward cabin A/C.

Pete37



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Furman1
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 13:51 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

We are looking at doing the Loop and the only fixed bridge that there is no way around is in Chicago at 19 ft 1 inch it would be close for us.&nbsp; Our radar arch stripped is 19 ft even.&nbsp; We have a couple of options 1/ see how much additional we will sink in fresh water verses salt water or hire a bunch of heavy folks to take a short ride.&nbsp; Another would be to have the arch lowered.&nbsp; Either way as I understand it the water level a can be lower by a foot or so at different times.&nbsp; Nothing that can be scheduled.&nbsp; There are boat yards that will lower sailboat masts in the area. By the way go to <a href="http://www.greatloop.com" target="_blank">http://www.greatloop.com/</a> and you can find out all you want to know about the loop.&nbsp; Hope this helps

Edited by Sonja Lowe on September 19 2013 at 13:26
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Furman1
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 14:02 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Jim, most of the inverter/chargers have an auto switch build in. That's what I have. When it sees power coming in it's a battery charger, when it doesn't it's an inverter.  The reason for the subpanel is to not try to run the whole boat when the inverter's on.  It only will run the things connected to the subpanel

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Pete37
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 14:07 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Corey,

I guess the compartment you are speaking of is the one accessed through the hatch in the galley.  There's not much in that compartment so it's probably a good place to have the inverter and batteries.  Are those batteries in addition to the house bateries or are they the house batteries?  I have tried to use that compartment for storage but it doesn't work very well.  It's too awkward to get into.

Sounds to me like you had better get the dock electric system fixed.  If you can't there are things called constant voltage transformers that an electrician can install on the dock or in your boat.

Aparently you have shifted you galley around to look like the old "Bohemia" now "Five Stars" I believe.

Furman has installed a fuel tank where the bateries used to be.  He could probably provide details on the modification.

When going around the Loop the the Hinmansville Bridge on the Oswego Canal linking the Erie Canal to Lake Ontario has a vertical clearance of only 20 feet. So you would probably have to take your radar arch down.  I believe the Erie Canal westward from the Oswego Canal to Buffalo has fixed bridges with less clearance but can't find my records on that right now. Most cruisers seem to take about a year to do the loop.  I'm sure that it can be done faster but most cruisers seem to like to take their time.

As to parquet floors, yes they can be put in and some people, such as yourself, have done it and like it.  However, parquet floors are dark and very slippery compared to rugs.  And even with five hatches you can only open about two at a time (due to the space the furniture takes up).  Statistically, parquet floors are a rarity (except in Taiwanese trawlers and galley spaces).  Wall to wall carpeting is cheaper and (provided it is not tacked down) gives just as much access to the engine room as parquet.  It also provides better footing and insulation.  Furniture does not slide around in a seaway as it does with parquet.

I've had boats with parquet floors and didn't like them.  In rough seas they just aren't safe.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 06 2007 at 14:31


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Monopoly1954
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Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 107
Posted: October 06 2007 at 16:15 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Pete,

I have two house batteries in the engine compartment in the same box as the two engine batteries. I have a total of 6 8D batteries and one regular sized battery for the generator. There are three separate smart battery chargers.

The electric problem is with the grid. In the summer the town goes to low voltage...105 to 110. volts.  It does not help help when everyone is running the A/C  on the dock. The Grid will not be upgrading the service for two more years. All of the houses in the area suffer the same voltage  problem.

I was aboard the old "Bohemia". That was for sale in September of 2003. I thought the open look was more my style of entertaining. If I recall correctly they had the  bunkbeds removed and replace by a twin on the lower level. I think the trash compacter was remove to accomplish the change.

I also changed the washer and dryer to the new style. It is a little larger than the old models and took some customization to install...( a saws all did the trick).


enjoy the day


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1986 Chriscraft 500
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Delaware Jim
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Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: October 06 2007 at 17:04 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Pete et al,

I am letting my household electric get in the way of my marine wiring... I checked the receptacles and (seeing only three poles) make the inaccurate assumption it was 50A 125V stuff.  On closer inspection. the thing is in fact 50A/110V-220V receptacles (both hot poles have "L" shaped pins.  The ground is actually the metal shell in the connection.  Please forgive my "faux pas"

Given this, I think my setup is in fact as Pete has described.  I have to open up the panel to confirm, but I am getting more comfort the prior owners did not bastardize the setup as I have been fearing.

I spent 2 very enjoyable hours this afternoon with David Ross and his bride.  I want to publically thank David for allowing me to dig around his boat and learn more about these wonderful boats. THANKS DAVID!!

 

Delaware Jim

 



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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: October 06 2007 at 18:34 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Corey,

I guess two of those 8Ds are the starting batteries and the rest must be house batteries.  You probably have the engine batteries hooked up to one charger, four house batteries hooked up to the second and the generator hooked up to the third.  That's almost enough batteries to drive a submarine.  The only down side is that you will probably have at least one of those 8Ds to replace each year.  And at about 140 lbs each they are a bear to remove and install.  Every time I mention I've got batteries to install everyone on the dock disappears within seconds leaving me to do it alone.

Power here in MD does the same thing although perhaps not as dramatically.  But less than 110 volts is common on hot summer weekends.  Constant voltage transformers are designed to keep the voltage to critical systems constant in spite of line voltage variations.  I think I have one in the attic.  They cost $50 to $100 depending on size.

"Bohemia" was on sale for a long time.  I think the first ads were back in 2002.  Apparently,  CC experimented with that galley layout but didn't like it because only two were built.  She was originally for sale up here in MD and went to FL later. 

The pictures I have of the forward cabin show a bed that looks as though it is the lower bunk extended out further towards the centerline of the boat and it looks as though it gets in the way of the door to the head.  The upper bunk has been removed and it does appear that the trash compactor has also been removed. My guess is that it was not a CC approved modification. 

I find that the top of the refrigerator cabinet in my boat is an excellent location to mount the TV because it can be swiveled to face either the dinette or lower salon.  I'm thinking of replacing our small lower salon TV with a 28"-32" panel type TV.  Where do you mount your TV?

Since we are not live-aboards my wife and I don't use the washer/dryer very much so a larger unit is not a priority item with us but for live-aboards it's probably great.

Pete37



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Monopoly1954
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Posted: October 06 2007 at 19:17 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Pete,

One battery charger for each of the pair of 8D's. engines, house, and inverter. I do not have the generator tied to a charger. In a pinch I can jump the battery with cables. I think I can get about 5 years out of a set. I changed 4 last year. It was really simple with two people. I did not consider that a bad job. Quick, easy, simple and cost effect. I purchased the 4 batteries from Sam's club for 88.00 each.

as far as TV's I have two on board. They are both SAT (direct TV ) connected. I installed one on a wall mount in the aft cabin(starboard side). It is a flat screen. The other I installed on the starboard side of the console in in the upper salon. I modified the top on the starboard side to open and installed another flat screen under the counter top.  I used the same piano hinge and holder to support the top. Both sides can be open at the same time(wet bar and TV side). Below the TV is the AC duct and below the AC duct is the electronics cabinet. I moved it from the lower salon port side to  the upper salon. I needed the room for storage.

The console is stuffed with electronic equipment, icemaker, and booze. I also installed three  cabinets in the upper salon for storage. One in the corner between the couch and chair, one on the other side of the chair, and the last on the starboard side of the upper salon. For a 50 foot boat there is not enough storage. I also have boxes on the bow.

I think my next investment will be flowscans. We are becoming focused on the cost of fuel.




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TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: October 07 2007 at 01:37 | IP Logged Quote TStellato


Hi all,

We have been busy with projects so I have not had much computer time.  Just caught up on all the posts.  Tony will start sorting through them shortly for the mechanical postings.  Well in the month and half since the boat has been home to MD we have done:

New carpeting throughout the inside and the bridge.  We elected to keep the border of parquet on the upper salon so when you step in you are not stepping directly onto the carpet.  We did replace all carpet below (It looks so much brighter and I don't slip!).  My carpet guy has done my last 2 boats so we did a combination of tacked and untacked with binding.  In the salon we are tacked all around, except for a strip 5 ft wide that allows it to be rolled backed to access all hatches, It is bound all the way around.  The gennie hatch was tacked and binded.  Places like the hallway were bound close to the wall so it looks tacked but you can roll back to get to the shower pumps.  Stair were left wood with carpet trends tacked to them.

New Fridge.  Thank goodness we have a different galley layout without the double door original.  It was one of the reasons we picked this boat.  The Galley and salon have a very open feeling.

New cushions for bow and bridge.

New sofas for upper and lower salons. We tore out the built in sofa.

Replaced upper salon built in TV with wine cooler

Added Satalite dish to arch

Replaced blinds in lower salon.  And curtains in upper salon.

Replaced dining table

We are liveaboards so TV is important.  Added a 40" flat screen to upper salon that is in a cabinet that lifts tv out.  Cabinet is secured to the starboard wall and tv is kept lowered in cabinet when we are away from the dock.

Gennie sea water pump was cleaned out and hoses replaced.  FL mussels no longer have a home.

Upper hull was compounded and waxed.  That was a 3 day job for a professional crew.  The FL sun gave it a beating.

Pete, we do have a oversized twin or twin and half in the forward with no bunk.  There is plenty of room to reach the head.  Uniflites had the same bed with a twin upper.  It may be a bed short forward, but I think that it makes for a nice guest, since 2 can sleep on the lower bed.

The former Bohemia was for sale for a while, but she is very sound.  We have had few problems with the major things, other than a small leak from the aft shower and the forward head not flushing strong.  the port engine was totally rebuilt as part of the sale and the starboard showed no problems.

We are considering waiting until Spring to haul out.  We may just send a diver down to replace some zincs.

Emory we were at Cantler's last week.  Really like the way you mounted your dinghy.  Did you have that done?  Or was it already there?

We still have not been able to switch over to the forward fuel tanks.  Tried shutting off the aft ones but turned them back on when the engines starting choking.  The forward tanks are full since when Tony left Fl he assumed that it would be easy to switch and use that fuel.  Now we are getting worried since we dont want that fuel to go bad.  I have the owners name (one before our sellers) that I am going to contact to see how it is done.  We have levers on the back wall (not under the rear stair) but so far cannot make them switch over.  If we cannot figure this out soon, we are considering having a truck some and polish and move it to the aft tanks.  We are not long range cruisers so this would work, but we still want to know how to do this for future trips.

A few thoughts to add to the get together mix.  Look at doing a happy hour rotation aboard the boats for the winter.  Or trying for a raft up on a Saturday afternoon in the next few weeks.  Those who want to stay can anchor others can leave back to home port.  I do think that there are enough boats on the bay and Potomac to maybe try to plan a weekend spring get together.  Maybe some place like Harris's at Kent Narrows?  We just sold our Egg and they had a weekend there with 25 boats.  They have dockage and a restaurant.


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Pete37
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Posted: October 07 2007 at 12:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Tony and Vicki,

Glad to hear that you have settled in and put most of your major projects behind you.

I had considered tacking down all the carpet in the lower salon and just leaving a 5' wide strip that could be rolled back for the hatches.  But I was concerned that the loose section of carpet and the tacked down section of carpet would not lay down exactly the same amount and would create a tripping hazard. 

A second problem is that I have to move the sofa to the port side when working on the starboard engine and dragging it across a joint between carpeted deck and bare deck could be difficult.  Theoretically you could leave the sofa in place while working on the starboard engine since the sofa doesn't actually rest on the hatches.  But experience showed me it just wasn't practical. 

 As third consideration was the mustache problem.  If you have any carpet in place while working on the engines there will be some transfer of engine dirt onto the carpet (even with extreme care in putting down drop cloths).  The best situation is just to not have any carpet in the lower salon at all when working on the engines.  Even then you have some problems with dirt transfer to the stairs and upper salon.  Wouldn't it be nice if engine rooms were spotlessly clean and diesels never needed any maintenance?  But that only happens in heaven.

The exterior doors to my upper salon all have teak grates just inside the door to take care of the water and dirt which comes in on rainy days. The grates are enclosed by a well which drains the water overside.  I thought that was standard but apparently it isn't.

I see from your post that you have already found out about the problems with slipping on parquet.  In a rough sea furniture will slide around on it too.

I need to replace the venetian blinds and curtains throughout the boat.  Perhaps I'll do it next spring.  But that's what everyone says at this time of year; I'll do it next spring.

Glad that you got your TV working the way you wanted it.

The generator sea water pump is a problem on Connies.  The intake is too high on the hull and if you are running in a chop it comes out from the water and the pump runs dry for a few seconds.  If you regularly run your generator while underway the lifetime of the impellor is only about 150 hours.  But if you run it only at anchor it lasts several hundred hours.

At this point in the season you might as well wait until spring to haul out.  That way you'll have fresh paint and zincs for the next season.  When you have the diver do the zincs only replace the zincs that are really gone.  Zincs are easier to install out of water and you can clean underneath them to get a better bond to the metal.  You can recheck the zincs the diver put on next spring.

It sounds like your switch-over valves are stuck from years of non-use.  You may have to remove and free up (or replace) them.  A messy job but at least diesel fuel is not explosive.  Polishing fuel gets rid of water and particulates but does nothing for the chemistry of the fuel itself.  Nevertheless, polishing the fuel is probably a good idea in a boat that has been idle for a long time.  It would be nice to keep your tanks near full to prevent condensation in the tanks.  There are chemicals like Dieselstore which may help preserve your fuel.  And of course we need chemicals now to relubricate the new low sulfur diesel fuel.  At this point in the year you probably aren't going to use up much more fuel before winter shuts things down so you ought to prepare all your fuel for winter storage.

It would be nice to have some sort of Connie owner get together this fall.  At the moment I have  a list of 20 Connies on the Bay.  There are four up on the Sassafras; Fantasy, Good Spirits, Still in the Mood and Selah.  In the Annapolis area we have Five Stars, Southern Charm and ?.  In the Kent Island area we have Interlude and Tachmier.  Of these about six regularly correspond on the site.

I think we have run out of time to have a rendezvous this year.  We tried that last moth but couldn't get enough people together.  Too many other commitments.  Next weekend is the powerboat show so that is out.  That leaves only the weekends of the 14th, 21st and 28th.  The 14th is probably too soon and by the 28th the weather gets very iffy.  That leaves the 21st as the most probably weeknd for a rendezvous.  I'll send out another set of posts about a rendezvous and see what we get in return.

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on October 07 2007 at 13:33


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Pete37
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Posted: October 07 2007 at 13:27 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To: Fantasy, Good Spirits, Selah, Still in the Mood and any other Connies in the Northern Chesapeake.

Subject:  Connie Owners Meeting

Do any of you guys have an interest in a Connie rendezvous or perhaps a dinner meeting with other Connie owners this fall?  The best time appears to be on the weekend of the 19th through 21st.  Location would probably be in the mid Chesapeake perhaps near Kent Island.

Post your answers on this site.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 07 2007 at 13:32


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Pete37
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Posted: October 07 2007 at 13:29 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To: Five Stars, Southern Charm and any other Connies in the Middle Chesapeake.

Subject:  Connie Owners Meeting

Do any of you guys have an interest in a Connie rendezvous or perhaps a dinner meeting with other Connie owners this fall?  The best time appears to be on the weekend of the 19th through 21st.  Location would probably be in the mid Chesapeake perhaps near Kent Island.

Post your answers on this site.

Pete37



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Pete37
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Posted: October 07 2007 at 13:34 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To: All Connie Owners on the Chesapeake

Subject:  Connie Owners Meeting

Do any of you guys have an interest in a Connie rendezvous or perhaps a dinner meeting with other Connie owners this fall?  The best time appears to be on the weekend of the 19th through 21st.  Location would probably be in the mid Chesapeake perhaps near Kent Island.

Post your answers on this site.

Pete37



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Fantasy
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Joined: November 30 2006
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Posted: October 07 2007 at 15:50 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Furman and others,

I'm using a 3000 watt Xantrex inverter/smart charger that has worked very well.  I replaced the previous unit (that was 2000 watt) when it blew out after some kind of surge (maybe lightning, maybe a dropped ground).  The wiring is complex but the instructions are pretty clear.

I don't have a separate panel but there are two dedicated breakers on the main panel.  One shuts down power "in" (for the charger) the other shuts down power "out" (too much A/C draw on the inverter) and the inverter has its own internal breaker, too.  As Pete says, it is set-up to parallel the generator connections and  mine uses the Gen/Shore selector switch.  With this design, all the appliances use their regular line breakers on the main panel and power consumption needs to be managed, which is simply a matter of flipping off the bigger breakers before turning on the inverter.

If a large draw is inadvertently put on the inverter, e.g. block heaters, air conditioning, water heater, the inverter shuts itself down pretty quickly and needs to be re-booted. 

Normally, the inverter runs from the two 8D house batteries but I have added a switch to patch-in one of the cranking batteries for overnight anchoring.  I have never had a problem cranking the engines next morning but if I did, the cranking batteries could be paralleled, failing that, the generator could be started to recharge the system.  I haven't done the math but I have a hunch that one 8D battery for each starter is overkill.

The Xantrex unit charges all four 8D's and I use the old (original) charger for the generator only.

John



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David Ross
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 00:03 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete and others interested in a redezvous,

Unfortunatly I am booked up and probably would not be able to attend a rendezvous this fall. All kinds of commitments, another grandchild on the way,etc. Would love to show, see and tell at another time; guess that means next boating season. I tried to arrange a get together on this site a few times this summer and even posted my July sixteen day cruise itinerary twice here and did not get one response. I was at many popular marina's and areas which were very near some Chris's and an easy drive by car or boat from others. No site response, no calls or meetup at any ports.

Dave



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David Ross
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 01:02 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

To all, various subjects,

I have spare shafts mounted on threaded mounts on the aft bulkhead under the galley parquet sole hatch. Out of the way, fairly easy to get to and balanced placement for weight. I have a spare shaft mounted behind the couch in the upper saloon below the aft windows). It is in a black formica with teak trim box (looks great, matches the bar and you can't even see it) that is piano hinged and extends into a built in port end table (again black formica and teak).

As mentioned before my boat does not list and I do not have a problem with water accumulatation on the side decks. Also as mentioned before I have no water in any of my bilge areas. If there is water there, I know I have a problem.

The 30 amp 110v outlet on the flybridge helm is a male not a female as a stated in error a few days ago and is a Hubbel shore power type. Power is controled by the same breaker for the 110v standard double outlet in the flybridge bar (under the sink). Again not sure why the 30 amp set up is there. Don't think it ever had a winch or davit onboard until I installed my 12v one.

I have newer carpet and eliminated all hatches except of course for the generator room one. It is tacked down all over but I can get to all the other hatches, sumps, lift up boards, etc. I use a needle nose pliers to pull back a corner and put it back by just pushing it up and over the tacking. I use a small putty knife to push down the edge near any paneling for a finshed look. Easy, neat and no wrinkles. I even have had both engines exposed at the same time. I have a sectional circular couch that I can easily put on the dinnette seats, the refrigerator top and saloon floor. I don't have anything on top of the refrigerator; like the clean open look. My tv is built in and conceled in the port cabinetry that angles out to the dinette.

Dave

 



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David Ross
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 01:10 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

To all ,a correction,

The 30 amp outlet on my flybridge is a FEMALE outlet... I originally said it was a male and then tried to correct my error and restated male again. It is a FEMALE. I better send things to this site not so late at night or take something for these senior moments.

Dave



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BAYSALOR
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Joined: December 08 2006
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 09:30 | IP Logged Quote BAYSALOR

For Corey Finkelstein

We bought our Connie in Buffalo, NY, and brought it back to the Chesapeake via the Erie Canal.   You are right about the 9-foot bridge, but it is in the section of the canal from Buffalo to Three rivers. We had to go via Lake Erie to the Welland Canal, then into Lake Ontario and then entered the canal system at Oswego. No problems at all, but there were a cuppla times when going under bridges that I just closed my eyes and waited for the GPS antenna and light to get knocked off. Never happened.

The great loop will take about a year. There is one bridge in Chicago that is only 19 feet, so the radar arch has to come down.   I just read a fascinating article about the loop; I will try and find it and give it to you.

Baysalor (Vintgage Port)

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BAYSALOR
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 10:13 | IP Logged Quote BAYSALOR

Rendezvous

Vintage Port is interested in a rendezvous, and propose a raft-up as opposed to meeting in a restaurant. My reasoning is simple: at a restaurant you generally don't get to talk with everyone, and we definitely want to see all of the changes everyone has made to thier Connies. We could meet in Whitehall Bay, which is only about 20 miles for us and Tony and Vicki, have a super happy hour and a potluck-type dinner.   The West river and the Rhode river are good anchorages, too.

We are open as to dates. We have no commitments before Thanksgiving.

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Delaware Jim
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 12:14 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

To All,

The "Still In the Mood" Admiral and Captain (Marie & Jim) are favorable to the weekend of the 19th-21st somewhere in the Kent Narrows/Annapolis Area.  We tend for favor a raft up as well, but if all we can get is a dinner meeting, we are OK with that as well.

Delaware Jim



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Pete37
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Joined: November 12 2006
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 13:29 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To All,

Subj: Misc.

Props:

It appears that props have been stored all over the place.  There doesn't sem to be any standard. 

Carpeting:

Apparently, Dave Ross has carpeted his lower salon about the same way I have.  The only difference is that he has used tack strips while I haven't.  I've had about 26 boats to date if my counting is right and dozens of recarpetings,  I found out a long time ago that tack strips are superfluous.  The carpet sits down very nicely without the tack strips. But if you only access your engines occasionally I guess they're all right.

But there is an awful lot of maintenance and repair work below decks and most of it is not on the engines.  I do most of it through the generator room hatch so I don't have to pull the carpet back very often.  But in an average year I open the engine hatches 20 to 30 times; some years more than that.  It depends upon what repairs you're doing.  After 30 openings the tack strips rip up the edges of the carpet pretty badly.  And after a couple years they're reduced to shreds.  That's one reason I don't use tack strips.  The other reason is that I'm lazy.  It takes too much time to open the hatches if you have to pull the carpet off the tack strips each time.

The Loop:

My latest measurement for bridge clearance is 19' 6".  That's with a radar on top of the arch.  The bridge near Oswego I mentioned before has a clearance of about 20' so you could get under it provided the water is not high.  But, of course, your clearance may be different.

Rendezvous:

"Vintage Port" and "Still in the Mood" what are the locations of your home ports and can you make it on Saturday, the 20th?  I can probably make the locations you mentioned but we will have to see where the others who may want to come are located before we pick an anchorage.  Some may be coming from the northern bay.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 08 2007 at 13:32


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BAYSALOR
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 13:46 | IP Logged Quote BAYSALOR

Rendezvous:

Vintage Port is docked on the South River, at the Liberty Yacht Club Marina. Tony and Vicki are a quick dinghy ride away (1/4 mile maybe?). We also are available the weekend of the 21st.



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Banjoman
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Posted: October 08 2007 at 16:46 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - Shirley and I can make the 21st.  We're docked on Mill Creek just up from Cantler's.  A raft-up could be a lot of fun if the weather and water is reasonable.  I've been in raft-up's where you simply could not enjoy yourself for the constant rocking.  So I suggest anchoring well up a creek.  A "back-up" plan at one of the restaurants would be in order as well (a bad weather plan)

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 08 2007 at 21:42 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Guys,

I just set up a diagram of the Connies on the Chesapeake using my genealogy program (thats why the title says "Descendants").  Unfortunately it's kind of hard to see with the limited resolution available on this site.  But if you squint a lot you may be able to see the name of your boat.

But the point of the diagram is that there are 23 Connies on the Bay by my latest count and that doesn't include any from VA.  There are 16 500s and 7 460s.  And of these one 460 and six 500s are regularly making posts.  Unfortunately, 5 are brokerage boats, one is undergoing major rehab.

Our rendezvous is looking good.  At present we have six boats interested; Five Stars, Good Spirits, Interlude, Southern Charm, Still in the Mood and Vintage Port (all 500s).  Too bad we don't have at least one 460.  There are a couple other possibles I will have to contact by mail.  I will need the email addresses of those who are interested to cordinate the rendezvous.  Please email me at Pminott@aol.com. Tentatively it's set for the weekend of the 19th through 21st with the primary date Saturday the 20th.  The location iwill be somewhere near Annapolis.  Mill Creek is a possibility.

If we get six Connies together, that will probably be the largest gathering of Connies since they were built.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 08 2007 at 21:50


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
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Delaware Jim
"Navigator"




Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: October 09 2007 at 08:50 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Pete,

The "geneaology" table is really nice!  Thank you for taking the time to create it.  The .jpg file is a bit "low res"; can you e-mail me a hi res copy to jrabey@verizon.net .

In response to your question, Still In the Mood is listed as homeport "Middletown DE". but slipped at Georgetown Yacht Basin, Georgetown MD on the Sassafras River (within sight of David Ross' "Good Spirits" across the river).

We are beginning to look forward to the get together over the weekend of 10/19-21.  I've communicated with Emory, but not met him- looking forward to doing so!

Delaware Jim



Edited by Delaware Jim on October 09 2007 at 08:52


__________________
"Still In the Mood"
1985 Chris Craft 500 Constellation
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