Cut The ECOS Lanyard

Anyone who regularly orchestrates group boating trips has received the dreaded night-before call: “I’m really sorry, but the kids just came down with something and Mom has to work in the morning, so I’m out for tomorrow.”

I, too, have had my crew bail out on the eve of a big trip, and with ice already aboard, baits rigged, and a full tank of fuel, I inevitably find myself offshore all by my lonesome, sometimes having my most enjoyable and productive fishing days. But as satisfying as solo trips can be, they come with some serious safety concerns – with the possibility of going overboard with the engine running near the top of the list.

In the blink of an eye, a simple slip off the deck can drop a captain in the water, helplessly watching as their boat motors on over the horizon. Scarier yet is the thought of being ejected and circled, with the spinning prop coming ever nearer. A three-blade propeller running at 3200 rpm can inflict 160 impacts in one second, according to the U.S. Coast Guard. Being run over by a runaway vessel is a preventable nightmare that no boater should have to face (but some do every year).

Wearing an engine cutoff switch, or ECOS, lanyard is a nearly foolproof way to avoid any of these terrifying scenarios. And as of 2021, it is now legally mandated for all operators of boats 26 feet and under, if equipped, except when operating at or below idle speed or on boats with an enclosed helm. However, being physically tethered to the helm can be impractical in some situations. Logic dictates that a captain should always take the boat out of gear before leaving the helm – or better yet, shut down the engine(s). But out on the water, unexpected tasks like pulling a fender aboard or closing an open hatch can force a captain to momentarily step away from the controls, which is where trouble can arise. Fishing is another activity where having the lanyard attached can be problematic. That’s because on small boats, the captain is often needed to assist with landing fish, clearing lines, and so on, rendering the lanyard inconvenient at best.

Fortunately, advancements in wireless technology now provide a safe and convenient alternative to the primitive cord, with multiple manufacturers now offering wireless ECOS systems that are affordable and relatively easy to install for the average DIYer. A console-mounted relay module that ties into your engine’s existing ECOS system sends wireless signals to connect to “tags” worn by the captain and crew. According to the parameters chosen by the captain, when a tag exceeds a certain distance from the helm (i.e., someone goes overboard), the relay activates the ECOS and shuts down the engine(s). Most systems also provide audible and visual alarms to alert the captain and/or crew of a crew overboard (MOB) event.

For my 22-foot Pro-Line with a Suzuki outboard, I chose an ACR OLAS Guardian model (PHOTO 1), but FELL Marine and Mercury 1st Mate offer systems with similar functionality. Do your homework to determine which system is the best fit for you and your boat. I installed my system in about half a day using basic tools. Here is the high-level procedure:

1. Ensure all battery switches are off, or disconnect the battery if your boat is not equipped with a switch.

Determine a good location to mount the Guardian hub. ACR recommends a location at least a 1/2 meter (about 20 inches) from any equipment emitting radio signals, including VHF radios, antennas, and cables. If possible, mount it close to the key switch(es) to ensure the cables have plenty of slack, making installation easier. If the selected location on the console/dash is thick enough, drill pilot holes and use the included screws to mount the hub. On my console, the fiberglass was not thick enough to prevent the screws from going all the way through, so I purchased stainless steel machine screws at the hardware store and thru-bolted it. (2)

2. Select a location for the control switch, which turns the system on and off, pauses functionality, and provides connectivity status.

I put mine next to my gauges where it was easily accessible but close enough to the hub (the module installed in step 1) for the control switch cable to easily reach. To install, drill a centered pilot hole (3), then follow with an appropriately sized hole saw just large enough for the switch to fit through while leaving enough material for the flange to seat (4). Tighten the backing nut from behind (you may need a helper for this), then connect the control switch cable to the Guardian Hub (5).

3. Connect the power cable to the hub.

Identify the power and ground wires on the open end of the cable according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then locate a clean 12-volt power source and grounding location on your boat. If the source is close enough, attach ring terminals to the wires (6), and connect to power (7) and ground (8). I had an open spot on my fuse block, allowing me to use the required 3A fuse. If using an unprotected power source, be sure to add an in-line fuse holder. If needed, attach a length of marine-grade wire with properly sized butt splice connectors to extend the power and ground wires. ACR recommends 20 AWG or thicker. I prepared this assembly outside the console to make the job easier (9).

4. Identify the signal and wires.

Identify the signal and common wires on the power cable that will connect to the ECOS loop according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then locate the corresponding wires on the ECOS (10), which is usually integrated into the engine key switch (11).

Which wires you use will depend on whether your engine(s) uses a “close to stop” or “open to stop” ECOS. I removed my key switch assembly for easier access to the wires and to avoid working inside the cramped console. Cut the two wires in a central location to leave room for splicing and strip a small section of insulation on each end (12). Join the corresponding Guardian wires with the engine-side wires of the ECOS and crimp (13). Then, crimp the ECOS side wires in the other sides of the butt splice connectors (14). Lightly tug on the wires to ensure a solid connection, then use a heat gun or appropriate heating tool to seal the connections. Install the included wire cap on the unused wire on the power cable and use electrical tape to secure it out of the way.

5. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, power up the unit and follow the steps to connect the tag.

On my Guardian system, I needed to download the app on my phone, which allowed me to configure my tag and set the sensitivity of the system, as well as other user settings such as audible signals, detection time before engine shutoff, and SMS alerts (15). In the event of a MOB incident, the app also simplifies the rescue process, providing an easy-to-read directional screen showing where the alarm was triggered, as well as advising on the correct mayday call.

6. Test the system.

With everything set up, start your engine(s) and walk away from the boat while wearing the tag. When you exceed a certain distance, the system should sound an alarm, activate an ultra-bright red LED visual alert, and shut down the engine(s). I had to perform a series of tests and make multiple adjustments to my system using the app to get the sensitivity just right, as some settings had me walking almost 100 feet away before shutting down, while others were activating the system while I was still on board. Submerging the tag provides a more immediate response, as water impedes the wireless signal.

With the system installed, configured, and working properly, you are ready to hit the water knowing you are safe, compliant, and prepared for the unexpected.