Winter Lay-Up Tasks You Can’t Afford to Forget

Each year, as boaters everywhere prepare for winter lay-up, a thorough and well thought-out winterizing plan is often the difference between a boat that incurs damage in the off-season and one that’s sound and ready to launch in the spring. But with so many chores to keep track of, even the most organized boater is bound to forget a critical winterizing task or two.

To assist in your lay-up efforts, BoatUS Marine Insurance has scoured our claim files to identify the top winterizing tasks most commonly overlooked each year. From hull to engine, your boat’s systems deserve special attention. Read on to find out if your winterizing efforts cover all of the essential steps!

Plan on visiting your boat regularly, at least once or twice a month.
A lot can happen in winter, from animals moving aboard to sudden leaks caused by expanding ice. If you can’t visit your boat frequently, consider using a buddy system with other boat owners. Another alternative is to ask your marina manager to keep an eye on the boat. Many marinas will inspect boats, although usually for a fee.

Did you add extra lines and chafe protection?
Blustery winter winds should never be confused with gentle summer breezes. All it takes is one good winter storm to abrade a dock line -- and maybe bash a hole in the hull. If the boat is left in the water, double up on docklines and add chafe protection.

Are cockpit drains clear?
Many boats are damaged and even sunk by nothing more than a few leaves blocking cockpit drains. Water trickles through the companionway, stains the interior woodwork, delaminates the cabin sole, and soaks into bulkheads, leaving open the possibility that rot will rear its ugly head sometime later. In one claim, water trickled through the keel bolts, froze, and pulled the keel away from the boat’s hull.

Did you drain the engine intake sea strainer?
Everyone knows to winterize the engine, but not everyone remembers to drain the sea strainer. Water left in the strainer can freeze and break the watertight seal. When that happens water is free to enter the boat in the spring when the ice thaws and the intake seacock is opened.

If the boat is stored in the water, did you close all of the seacocks?
If you leave your boat in the water over the winter, it is absolutely essential that you close the seacocks. Leaving a boat’s seacocks open is like going on an extended vacation and leaving the doors to your house unlocked. Neglecting to “lock” even one door is a significant risk. If a thru-hull below the waterline can’t be closed, either because it is broken or mechanically frozen, the boat should be stored ashore for the winter. The sole exception is cockpit drains, which must be left open to prevent water accumulation in the cockpit. These should be inspected to sure that the hose and the hose clamps (two at each connection) are in good shape.

How about thru-hull fittings above the waterline?  
While boats with low freeboard are more likely to be overcome by rainwater or a slow leak, a boat is often much “closer” to the water than its freeboard would indicate. A cracked plastic thru-hull at the boot stripe means that the boat only has to sink an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Boats have sunk because cracked thru-hulls near the waterline were submerged by the weight of snow and ice in the cockpit.

Plastic thru-hull fittings deteriorate in sunlight and should be replaced with bronze or Marelon. If this can’t be done immediately, the boat should be stored ashore.

If the boat is stored ashore, is it supported properly?
Most boatyards do a competent job of positioning the supports, but it never hurts to discuss technique with the yard manager.  With jack stands, the stand should be perpendicular to the hull so it directs the boat’s weight toward the ground. Misalignment of the stand will force it out as the load is applied. Even if the stand is aligned perfectly, safety chains must be used between the stands on each side to keep them from slipping out from under the hull. The jack stands should be placed as far out from the boat as practical to support the boat in high winds, with at least three per side for boats over 26’ and additional supports at long overhangs. Plywood should be placed under each base to prevent its sinking into mud, sand or asphalt. Even when stands rest on clay that seems brick hard, they can be loosened by heavy spring rains, shift, and spill the boat.

While jack stands must be placed properly at bulkheads and beneath the engine, most of the boat’s weight rests on its keel.  Some boats have specific requirements for support of the keel, but at least one manufacturer warns against putting weight on the keel. If the marina manager isn’t familiar with your boat, check your manual or contact the manufacturer.

Keels must be supported by wide, thick timbers—the wider the better to distribute the load. Cinder blocks are prone to breaking and should not be used. On powerboats, additional support is usually recommended for inboard engines, fuel tanks, and heavy machinery. With outboard and outdrive boats, weight should be taken off the transom by lowering the drive units onto a block. After the boat is blocked, sight along the hull and keel to make sure the jack stands aren’t depressing the hull.  (Check again in two weeks, after the boat has time to settle.) The deck must also be level, or water could pool and cause stains, mildew, and/or gelcoat crazing.

Is the boat covered properly?
A bona fide winter cover is terrific protection if it is adequately ventilated. With most boats, a lack of ventilation beneath the cover causes mildew or even rot problems down below. If the boat has been painted with two-part epoxy paint (Imron, Awlgrip, etc.), a lack of ventilation can cause tiny bubbles in the paint. The problem occurs most often when shrink-wrap covers aren’t ventilated, but the bubbles have also appeared when a poly tarp sagged against the paint, trapping moisture. 

Any cover that isn’t well supported will accumulate snow and water, which add considerable weight to the boat.  Finally, never secure the boat’s winter cover to the jack stands or support blocks.

Have biminis and dodgers been stored inside?
There is a common misconception that a cover that protects the crew from sunlight and spray will also protect the boat from freezing rain and snow. Quite the contrary, biminis and dodgers tend to be ripped apart or, more likely, aged prematurely by the effects of winter weather while doing almost nothing to protect the boat. Aluminum support frames are frequently bent by the weight of accumulated snow. Biminis and dodgers should be taken home for the winter and, if necessary, re-stitched and repaired

A few other reminders:
Outriggers stored at a 45º angle are prone to bending in ice storms. Outriggers should be disassembled or, if that’s not possible, stored vertically. • Take home cushions, rugs, clothing, and anything else that retains moisture and encourages mildew. Open up locker doors to circulate air down below. • Unless you’ll need to leave one aboard to operate a bilge pump, all batteries should be taken home, recharged, and stored for the winter.

As you prepare for the winter, make sure your boat is protected by quality insurance coverage at the best price. Click Here for a fast, free rate quote or call 800-283-2883 for personal service.