
THE SOCIETY ISLANDS :
Tahiti, Society Islands
Normally a no-nonsense guy, even taciturn Captain Cook
fell madly in love with Tahiti . When Cook and botanist
Joseph Banks landed in Matavai Bay in1769, they found
an untouched Eden . But it was the glowing tales of
French explorer Compte Antoine de Bougainville that
forever perpetuated the image of Tahiti as a voluptuous
paradise of nature, attracting a bevy of followers,
notably artist Paul Gauguin and writer Robert Louis
Stevenson. Nearly 400 miles square, and almost bisected
by the sea, Tahiti is skirted by miles of white and
black sands. In the lushly forested mountains, waterfalls
gleam and a sacred lake hides the spirits of the gods.
Huahine, Society Islands
A laid back haven for surfers, ex-pats and others who
prefer the road less traveled, Huahine offers an authentic
example of what the islands used to be. Tahitian, rather
than French, is the lingua franca and the island's
numerous archaeological digs offer a fascinating window
into the past. In sacred maraes reminiscent of Stonehenge
, giant stones looking like gravestones remind you
that human sacrifices were part of the Polynesian religious
rituals. Near the settlement of Faie, ogle six-foot
blue-eyed eels undulating in the water.
Raiatea, Society Islands
When you venture up the jungle-clad shores of Raiatea
's Faaroa River you could well believe you'd been transported
to pre-European times. A hike up Mt. Temehani might
lead you to the sacred Tiare Apetahi flower,
found only on Raiatea , while a walk through the sacred Marae
Taputapuatea takes you to the place where the
ancient Polynesians set out to explore the vast reaches
of the Pacifac, ranging from New Zealand to Hawaii
and Easter Island . Raiatea is also birthplace of the
legendary god, Hiro, father of the Polynesians. The
hibiscus tree, or purau , is the wood used
since time immemorial for outriggers of Polynesian
proas.
Taha’a, Society Islands
Just a kiss away from Raiatea is the island of Tahaa
. Site of Vanilla plantations, pearl farms and not
much else, it's a delightfully quiet reminder of the
old island ways. From the invitingly named little fishing
village of Patio , take a boat out to a local pearl
farm to see how pearl oysters are cultivated or savor
an afternoon of basking in the shade of a palm tree
on one of the tiny motus that dot the lagoon. The sunset
view of Bora Bora in the distance will keep your camera
very busy.
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Bora Bora, Society Islands
Even if you've never been there, most people recognize
the chiseled peak of Mt. Otemanu on Bora Bora . This
is where James Michener was stationed as a young naval
officer, which later inspired him to write 'Tales of
the South Pacific' . You can find remains of rusting
WWII gun batteries hidden in the jungle-choked hillsides.
Then quench your thirst at a bar called Bloody Mary's.
In pre-European times, Bora Bora was the launching
place for fierce war parties to other islands. Today
the peaceful lagoon is a favorite snorkeling place
where you can hand feed harmless black-tipped sharks.
Moorea, Society Islands
Beloved by yachtsmen, Moorea's heart-stopping beauty
is a vision of paradise that takes your breath away.
This was the real-life site of Michener's longed for “special
island,” Bali Hai. Star Flyer anchors in both
Cook's Bay and Opunahu Bay , so you'll have two opportunities
to savor every glorious view of this spectacular island.
Take a 4X4 ride to the old Kellum Stop Estate and the
top of Belvedere, where your Polynesian guide picks
a fresh fruit from a tree to refresh your palate as
you drink in the stunning panorama.
THE TUOMOTUS:
Fakarava, Tuomotus Islands
More than 250km from bustling Papeete, and contrasting
markedly with the Society Islands' volcanic peaks,
the far-flung Tuomotus are low-lying coral atolls scattered
in palm-topped leis on a languid sea, seldom visited
by tourists and cruise ships. Lucky for you! For this
is a naturalist's nirvana and diver's delight. On Fakarava
Lagoon, the Garuae Pass ' 150 foot visibility offers
in-your-face encounters with enormous schools of dolphins,
rays, sharks and rainbows of reef fish. An old Catholic
mission, dating from the 1850's, watches over Fakarava's
250 inhabitants, who support themselves mainly by pearl
farming.
Tiputa, Rangiroa, Tuomotus Islands
The village of Tiputa has the charming ambience of a
faded French colonial town that remembers grander times.
Perhaps that's because the main attractions are not
on shore but in the water. Rangiroa, the world's second
largest lagoon, is a center of Polynesian pearl culture,
where the frilly-shelled pinctada margaritifera oyster
produces lustrous black pearls of eye-popping size.
At a local pearl farm, see how oysters suspended in
the lagoon are implanted with tiny “seeds,” later
harvested as the legendary South Seas pearls. A drift
dive or snorkeling in cave-lined Tiputa Pass is an
effortless passage through pelagic paradise!
Rangiroa Lagoon
Rangiroa Lagoon is so large, 392 square miles, that you
can't see from one side to the other. After a leisurely
cruise from Tiputa, Star Flyer will anchor for an afternoon
and night in the remote and seldom seen southeastern
part of the Lagoon. Here visitors can explore a ghost
town on a deserted motu where the lonely spire of a
tiny church is the only remaining landmark. At Sables
Roses, you're in the pink (literally!) when you dig
your toes into the glowing coral sands - and you won't
need rose-colored glasses.
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