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For trailer boaters
in the north, these are happy times. The shrinkwrap or the familiar blue
tarp is finally coming off after months of snow and rain and below freezing
temperatures. There is anticipation and excitement about getting back
on the water.
For the trailer boaters
in the south who have enjoyed a winter of activity, today may just be
another day in paradise.
But both perspectives
from both locations require some questions to be asked. In the north it's
the result of getting ready for a season. In the south it's because safety
requires a routine inspection of operating systems. Perform these checkpoints
and the chances of a breakdown will decrease.
| Trailer |
| (1)
Tires. Inflate to the proper PSI and inspect for spider web cracks
on the sidewall. If present, then it's time to replace them. Look
at the tread and measure it's depth. If less than 2/32nd's of an inch,
the tread is considered worn. Also inspect the spare. And if you don't
have a spare, get one. If your trailer tires sat outside with your
trailer, consider removing them and putting the trailer on blocks
next year. Remember that most trailer tires need replacing not because
of use, but because the trailer tends to sit for long periods. |
| (2) Frame. You
are going to have to get on your back and crawl under the trailer
to look for corrosion and rust. Keep in mind that once an area begins
to corrode, it is only going to get worse until sanding removes it.
And when it comes to removing rust, there is no time like the present. |
| (3)
Lights. Plug the trailer into the tow vehicle's electrical system
and turn the vehicle on. Put the lights on and inspect if any bulbs
or lenses need replacing. This is a moment where you are going to
need a second person to tell you if the trailer brake lights come
on when the brakes on the tow vehicle are applied and if backup lights
come on when the tow vehicle in placed in reverse. This is also a
good time to make sure you have the appropriate bulbs in your tool
kit for replacement should it become necessary on the road. |
| (4) Bunks/Rollers.
Inspect the bunks for wear on the carpeting or on the rubber padding
that is beneath the carpet. Some trailer boaters spray a silicon coating
on the bunks to make the surface easier to slide the boat on and off.
Roller should be turned individually to determine if any have locked.
Inspect the rollers for wear and remember when it comes to rollers
that are worn, there is no time like the present to replace them.
Poly rollers last a lot longer than their rubber counterparts. |
| (5)
Safety chains. Inspect for wear and check the S hooks for possible
bending. It is a good idea to replace the S hooks with screw-pin shackles
that have a wire running through the pin's eye. It provides a connection
that is considerably more reliable and solid than S hooks. |
| (6) Bearings.
Inspect the grease in the hubs. There is no time like the present
to replace the grease, especially if the trailer has spent a winter
outside in dampness. Inspect the grease seal and if you (or the shop)
decides it needs to be replaced, make sure a double lip seal is installed.
Inspect the bottom of the boat or the inside of the trailer tires
for grease. If it's present, the bearings are in need of attention
now. |
| (7)
Brakes. As is the case with bearings, if you aren't sure about what
to do, take the trailer to the shop and let an expert do the work.
The result will be peace of mind (and good bearings and brakes). Check
the fluid level in the master cylinder but be sure to clear away debris
around the cap before opening it so as not to contaminate the fluid.
If it is low, you may have to bleed the system to get air out of the
lines. Pull the wheel and inspect the disc/drum to see if new pads/shoes
are required. |
| (8) Tool kit.
Go through your tool kit and make sure the proper wrenches and screwdrivers
are packed. Make sure you have a trailer jack that fits your trailer
as well as blocks that can be used to support your tow vehicle's rear
wheels. |
| (9)
Winch. Inspect the cable looking for broken wires or worn areas. Clean
and lubricate the winch. Make sure you have a strong tie down for
the bow as well as the stern of the boat and that both are properly
secured to the trailer. |
| (10) Hitch. Apply
grease to the ball and inspect the hitch locking mechanism. |
| Boat
"If all you do is slap on some bottom paint and shove
your boat back in the water, then you had better be prepared for headaches
later.." BoatUS Director of Technical Services Bob Adriance
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| (1)
Cleaning. The first cleaning of the season is the most important cleaning.
Use a cleaner
that is designed for what you want to do. If your boat is new, a one-step
cleaning product will work fine. Just remember not to let it dry on
the surface of the hull. |
| (2) Battery.
Proper maintenance dictates taking the batteries out of the boat during
the off season. Wire brush the terminals and fill cells with distilled
water. Studs, nuts and washers should be copper--not aluminum or steel.
After charging the batteries, check the lights, radio, GPS and other
electronic gear that is onboard to make sure all are in good working
order. Also inspect the fuse box and make certain extra fuses are
on board. |
| (3)
Fire extinguisher. Make sure it is charged and securely stowed in
a visible place onboard. Inspect distress signal flares for expiration
date. |
| (4)
Bottom paint. If you trailer your boat and never leave it in a slip
for long periods of time, you may not require bottom paint unless
the boat is operated in salt water. If the paint is beginning to chip
away, the time has come to go to work. |
| (5)
Thru-hulls and drain plugs need to be inspected. During storage they
should have been left open so now is the time to make sure they can
be closed prior to launch. |
| (6) Engine. This
is the time to take the outboard to a reputable shop for service.
Inspect fuel hoses and lines. If gas additive was not added to the
fuel tank, drain and replace with fresh gas. The zinc fitting on I/O's
and outboards should be checked and, if worn, replaced. With a dry
rag, inspect fuel connections for snugness. If they aren't secure,
your nose will tell you if the rag doesn't. Cooling system hoses should
be checked for stiffness and rot. They should be double clamped. |
| (7)
Prop. Inspect the blades for dings and pitting and any other surface
disturbance that can cause excessive vibration. Inspect cotter pins.
Grip the prop and try to turn the shaft. If it is loose, you are in
the market for new cutlass bearings. |
| (8) Bilge. Inspect
the bilge blower hose for leaks. |
| (9)
Steering. Check the power steering and power trim oil levels.
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| (10) Cables.
Control cable outer jacket should have no cracks or swelling. If it
does, the cable is corroded and needs replacement. |
| Tow
Vehicle "If you tow heavy loads, then upgrade the
service intervals for your truck. It will be worth the extra expense."
Peter O'Toole Peter O'Tool is a Trailering Club
Member who sells trucks at General GMC in West Palm Beach, Florida.
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NOTE:
These are points that will be followed by professionals when performing
service on your vehicle. It isn't my intention to suggest anyone can
do this in their backyard.
(1) Check the
wiring harness on the tow vehicle.
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| (2) Check all
the lights. |
| (3)
Inspect hitch brackets and bolts for corrosion. Use Grade 8 bolts
only. You won't find them at the local hardware store. If you launch
in salt water, plan on replacing the hitch every three years. If you
launch in freshwater some hitches will last the lifetime of the truck.
But be sure to inspect them every year. |
| (4) Check the
receiver and slider. Separate, clean and lubricate with good quality
grease (axle grease works fine). Remember, salt water can make these
two pieces inseparable if this isn't done once a year. |
| (5)
Pull the rear wheels and check brakes and seals. |
| (6)
Activate the parking brake and lubricate. Crawl underneath and spray
the brake line with water repellant lubricant and engage the brake
a few times. |
| (7)
Service the rear end and transmission. If you aren't due to have this
done for a couple thousand miles but intend to begin towing again,
go to the shop now. |
| (8) Inspect engine
as needed. |
| (9)
Four wheel drive only: check the CV joints and transfer case. |
| (10) Four wheel
drive only: check the four wheel drive shift mechanism. This is what
activates and switches between two and four wheel drive. This is a
common problem of people who don't have regular service performed
on their tow vehicle. You don't want to attempt pulling a loaded trailer
up the ramp and not be able to engage four wheel drive when you need
it. |
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