Trailering Club

By Ted Sensenbrenner and Dustin Hoover

Wearing Treads

Trailering Guys - I have a 2004 Crownline 235 CCR on a tandem-axle, roller Venture trailer. I replaced the tires this year and noticed that they are wearing like the old ones. The two outer treads are wearing faster than the two inner treads. I maintain 50 psi in all tires and check them each time I tow the boat. I know from working on cars that this wear pattern means the tires are underinflated. Obviously, they are not. Why are they wearing this way and what can I do about it? I've had the tire balanced and the trailer has been inspected and found to be OK, since I have to get it inspected every year, per Pennsylvania law. Thanks.
Mark Devito, Wilmington, NC

Dustin: I would look into the axle being out of square, which would cause the tires to actually drag a bit rather than roll straight. The other thing that could be wrong is that the axles were made with too much camber — this is the amount of pre-bend that is put into the axle so that the weight of the boat flattens out the spindle and makes the tires ride straight. Talk to the manufacturer about the problem. Maybe they can help also.

Ted: From your question, I can't quite make out what is happening, but you've taken the first and obvious steps; you've checked inflation, balance, and had a proper inspection. Since that didn't take care of your problem, some other things might be at play. One concern could be that the trailer is overloaded if both inside and the outside (but not middle) of the tires are wearing. An alternate explanation would be if just the outsides of all four tires are wearing, your load might not be heavy enough to flatten the camber that is sometimes built into trailer axles. If you're confident it's neither of the above, then perhaps it is an axle alignment issue, in which case it is more difficult to diagnose and remedy by yourself.

The High Roller

Hello, I have just bought a Venture aluminum trailer for my Conquest 275 with twin outboards. Where is a good starting point to place the boat on the trailer? The shop I bought the trailer from said the front roller was placed on the high side. The trailer seems to have too much tongue weight. Also can I pull this setup with a 2009 Tundra 5.7-liter truck? Thank you.
B. Dellums, Tacoma, WA

Ted: First, the specs for the Boston Whaler Conquest 275 lists a beam of over nine-and-a-half feet, and a dry weight of about 7,500 pounds, exclusive of engines, fuel, water and gear. I would say you're not going far with a 5.7-liter engine, or at least not legally. There are online discussion boards where boaters discuss trailering this specific boat, but with 3/4-ton diesel trucks and with wide-load permits in hand. For proper trailer setup, I would consult Boston Whaler and get a diagram for where rollers and bunks are to make contact with your hull and attachment points to the trailer. This should get you in the ballpark of boat placement and proper tongue weight. Next you need to get a good idea of the overall weight of the trailer and boat, inclusive of supplies, water, and fuel, by going to your local truck scales. Your tongue weight should be five to 10 percent of that overall weight. Once you know your overall weight and have tongue weight where you want it, see your truck specs. There are several Tundra models listed for your year, and their tow ratings appear to range from 8,300 to 10,600 pounds.

Dustin: You should put the boat on the trailer so that the back of the boat is close to even with the back of the bunks or rollers. The bow stop can be adjusted to fit the boat. As far as tongue weight, there should be no more than 10 percent of the total trailer's weight on the tongue. Sometimes the only way to tell the weight is to take it to a truck stop and disconnect the trailer on the scales and weigh it. Then back up and put only the tongue jack on the scale and this will tell you everything you need to know. As far as the Tundra, I would check the amount of weight the trailer hitch can handle; you might be surprised that the hitch cannot handle as much as the truck is said to be able to pull.

Keep The Brakes

I currently own a 2006 Nissan XTERRA with an aftermarket class 3 hitch. I am currently looking at a 20- to 22-foot Shamrock center console, either a stalker or an open fisher. I was wondering if my XTERRA will tow and launch this type of boat, and I was also wondering if there is anything else I need to do to protect my tow vehicle, such as oil and transmission cooling. Finally, when launching a trailer with brakes, should you disable them when launching due to the water, or is this practice OK? Sorry about the novice questions but I'm new to boating at this size. Thanks.
G. Lewiston, Omaha, NE

Dustin: The XTERRA should have a weight-pulling limit and the hitch should have a weight-carrying limit. Then you must know the exact boat weight plus the trailer that holds it and do the math. Brakes do not have to be disconnected because they will most likely be hydraulic brakes that are designed to be in the water. Most of your boat trailers have brakes that will only work when you're going forward, so the launching thing is not an issue for you. Each truck, trailer, and launch ramp is different so you will have to experiment on your own to see how things react during launching and recovering your boat. Just take it easy and learn as you go. If you are going to be towing long distances, then, yes, a transmission cooler is recommended as well as quality brake parts on your tow vehicle.

Ted: Great question, and we're always happy to help new boaters get to the ramp and back. For starters, your XTERRA tow capacity is listed as 5,000 pounds. So whatever you're considering in terms of boat purchase, you need to stay under that maximum with a fully loaded boat and trailer. A 22-foot Shamrock, loaded, is going to put you over that limit of 5,000 pounds. You should be OK with a 22-foot Shamrock, if you keep equipment on board to a minimum. Even lightly loaded, that boat is about your maximum. Since boats in that range are putting you at the top of your capacity, I would suggest a transmission cooler. Another good add-on would be an oil cooler, but that's not as important as the transmission cooler, in my mind. As far as brakes, leave them attached when backing. Your connector should have a lock-out solenoid or a separate wire that allows the brakes to release and free-roll for backing.

Which Hitch?

I had a front hitch installed on my truck to make getting my trailer boat into tight parking spaces easier. Problem I'm having is getting the actuator off the ball. I had to slam on the brakes several times to jerk the receiver out of the hitch. That was the only way it would come off and it was still very difficult getting it to come out. At times the back hitch sticks and I have to jump up and down on the rear bumper to break it loose, but it does come off. What can I do to get it off easier? I'm afraid one of these days I won't be able to get it off the front hitch. The boat's a Grady White Seafarer 226.
R. Semenza, San Jose, CA

Ted: First, to clarify for our other readers, a hitch installed on the front of a tow vehicle sure does make managing a trailer into a tight spot easier. By pushing your trailer into a parking space with the tow vehicle (rather than traditional backing), you have more precise control due to the fact the steering wheels are adjacent to the hitch and secondly, you can actually see where you are going.
However, a few words of caution: Towing (or pushing) with the boat trailer attached to the front of the vehicle should only be done on level ground for very short distances, and never to launch or retrieve a boat. Your vehicle's suspension, steering, and brakes were not designed for front-end loading. Often, marinas' yard trucks and pull motors have been modified or designed for this, and yard personnel are very adept at maneuvering boats and trailers this way. In answer to your question, be certain your ball and receiver get a good cleaning with a wire brush and a shot of lubricant every so often. Also be sure you are using the proper-sized ball and make sure the trailer is in line with the tow vehicle when you attempt to disconnect — it may be hanging up if the truck and trailer are at an acute angle. You might also need to have the actuator lock-out wire attached or release it by placing an awl or screwdriver in the manual lock-out hole in the top of your trailer tongue. Lastly, if all else fails, it may be time to replace the actuator.

Dustin: My first thought would be that you are not pulling back on the trailer ball before trying to release it. Even if you slam on the brakes, it may still have pressure on it. If you still have pressure against the ball, it will be very hard to get off. Block your wheels and pull back on the trailer tongue and ball and see if that helps. My next thought would be the height of the ball. If it is not level, it will make it very hard to get off. And last but not least, make sure you have it greased up well. Both the ball and the coupler and the coupler hinges. Hope this helps.

Drum to Disc

Hi, Ted and Dustin, I have a 1993 VM trailer with a 9900 carrying capacity. It has triple axles with brakes on the front and rear axles. I would like to convert from the present drum brakes to disc brakes. I have been told that I need to change the master cylinder on this trailer. I have also been told that all I really need to do is change the orifice on this master cylinder in order to accommodate the disc brakes. My question is, what is the safe and proper way to do this? Thank you in advance for your answer.
B. Noyer, Clovis, CA

Dustin: Bill, if you are going through all this effort, don't stop with the actuator. Replace it. Yes, there are ways to convert it over but, no, it's not just the orifice and, no, it is not easy. You have to take the whole thing apart and remove pieces out of the inside of the master cylinder. Go with a good actuator like the one made by Tie Down and make sure you get the one that has the reverse flow solenoid. This puts the fluid back into the master cylinder when in reverse. Then, go with a good Kodiac stainless-steel caliper and cadmium-coated rotor. Finally, put a good rubber or stainless-steel brake line on and you'll have a reliable system.

Ted: I, too, have heard that you can change or puncture the orifice on your master cylinder, but I've not done it personally. I'll let Dustin address whether this is wise. I suspect that you'll want a more professional and an assured solution by changing out the master cylinder. I always opt for going the route of buying all new components when upgrading. Things always seem to work more trouble-free when they are purchased at the same time. You have a big trailer that is more than 15 years old and a big boat presumably, so the safe way would be to install what you need new, all at once.

Targeting Carpeting

I tow a Rinker Fiesta Vee 270 on a custom-made Loadmaster, triple-axle aluminum trailer. I need to re-cover the bunks and I'm thinking about using 3/4-inch UHMW instead of carpet. The UHMW would be counter-bored for SS fasteners and then I would put a plug over the top. What do you think?
T. Kuntzman, Columbus, OH

Ted: Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMW), a hard-plastic material essentially, is very slippery when wet due to its low coefficient of friction and it doesn't absorb water. It is incredibly durable and according to an online review, it is 15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel. For these reasons, I would be suspect that it would be difficult to work with and the material itself could potentially scratch your boat hull. I would suggest a quick Internet search of "trailer slides" where you'll find ready-to-install products that are cheaper and perhaps better suited for your use.