| Soaking
Up Tarpon Springs Florida's "Sponge Capital"
When
most residents of Florida cities and towns think of the year about to
pass, they are going to do it with the words "good riddance."
But in Tarpon Springs, along the state's northeast Gulf shore, residents
will be thinking about sponges-for soaking up the rains brought most recently
by visitors named Wilma and Katrina but also because sponges are part
of who they are.
A century ago, Greek divers
came to Florida's gulf coast in search of work... and sponges. Generations
had made a living diving into waters around the Greek islands and harvesting
the coveted sponges so when they were discovered offshore from what is
now called Tarpon Springs (named after the fish as it "springs"
out of the water) near Tampa Bay, the tradition and vocation of sponge
diving flourished there. It's still going but tourism has since overtaken
the market for natural sponges.
"I like this area,"
observes Larry Tieman of TowBoatU.S. Tarpon Springs, "because there's
a unique flavor and an old Greek atmosphere around the Sponge Docks. You'll
see Greek culture and taste some terrific Greek food here."
The Sponge Docks along Dodecanese
Boulevard are where a visitor can buy the common yellow sponge or the
more sought after wool sponge, tour or attend services at the nearby St.
Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral (built by Greeks and modeled after the
St. Sophia Cathedral in Constantinople); or enjoy Greek cuisine at one
of more than a dozen Greek restaurants. There is even the "Spongeorama"
where a history of the sponge industry is shown through a black and white
motion picture. If you like cheesy attractions, this is aplace you'll
not want to miss.
The Sponge Docks is the area
where boat tours and fishing charters depart for trips into the Gulf of
Mexico and where the Christmas light parade of boats originates (December
6). Next month (January 4-8, 2006), the 100th Epiphany Celebration takes
place at nearby Spring Bayou where Greek boys age 16-18 will dive for
a white cross that is tossed into the 60-degree water by His Eminence
Archbishop Demetrios of the Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America.
Tarpon Springs
Trailer Boating
The
Anclote (from the Spanish word for "anchor") River runs 4.5
miles south from Tarpon Springs, connecting to St. Joseph Sound, where
the Intracoastal Waterway is located inside the barrier islands. Three
miles from where the Anclote empties into the Sound is the Gulf of Mexico.
It is easy to see why boating is a daily event in the Tarpon Springs area.
"The most popular Gulf
launch ramp in the area is across the Anclote River in Pasco County,"
says Trailering Club Member Lou Galanos. "It's at the end of the
Anclote and known as Anclote River Park. You'll find a swim beach, covered
picnic tables, grills, restrooms, volleyball in the more than 29 acres,
but there's are also four launch ramps (two singlewide and two doublewide)
with floating docks and a separate floating dock for loading supplies
and passengers. This beautiful facility is at the mouth of the Anclote
so you have easy access to the Gulf of Mexico. Consequently, it can get
very busy on weekends and holidays, and even some weekdays will see a
large number of boaters at the ramp."
"Anclote River Park has
a current because it's near the intake area of Florida Power's Anclote
facility," notes Larry Tieman of TowBoatU.S. Tarpon Springs. "Trailer
boaters will be affected by this 95% of the time when launching and retrieving
so when you are coming back, keep to the outward edge of the ramp because
you will be pulled."
Lou Galanos notes he always
sees a few people sitting in lawn chairs under trees at the top of the
ramp. "They are regular spectators," he observes, "and
they come every day to watch boaters as they flounder around trying to
launch and recover during the tide rush. For them, it's cheap entertainment."
Galanos ought to know what's
good and what's less than good about boat ramps in Florida. He researches
a Gulf of Mexico Ramp Guide that is made available to his boating friends.
He and his wife, Wilma, have a MacGregor 22 sailboat (Amy Jean's) on which
they've explored all of the Tarpon Springs area.
"As a trailerable sailboat,
it's worked well for us because it is easy to set up, launch and recover
at a variety of ramps. It's also comfortable enough for two people to
spend one or two nights at anchor. It has a swing keel, so we can beach
it in the shallowest of waters and we don't have to pull a dinghy or wade
ashore."
Day Trips
Kelly
Wagner, office manager at Belle Harbour Marina, one of three BoatU.S.
Cooperating Marinas in Tarpon Springs (Anclote Harbor and Anclote Village
Marina are the others), doesn't have to think when asked about where trailer
boaters can go for a day on the water.
"Caladesi Island,"
she responds, "you can anchor off the beach and there are trails-and
it's only accessible by boat so you aren't going to get a lot of crowds."
It is one of the many barrier islands just offshore, and like Anclote
Key Preserve State Park and Honeymoon Island, there is little-if any-commercial
development. Caladesi has a 108-slip marina that is well protected and
has some basic services (bathrooms, showers and sewage pump-out). A 1921
hurricane cut Honeymoon Island in half, creating Caladesi. The water between
the two is appropriately called "Hurricane Pass" and a ferry
makes hourly trips across the pass between the islands.
Honeymoon Island is connected
to the mainland via the 2-mile-long Dunedin Causeway. The island takes
its name from a developer's plans in the late 1930's to make it a romantic
getaway for newly married couples. The state of Florida purchased the
land and today, it provides miles of sandy beaches, tidal ponds, a beach
allowing visitors to bring their dogs for a run/walk, hiking trails, more
than adequate parking for visitors, and a picnic area. As can be done
at Caladesi, boaters can anchor offshore (weather permitting) and use
the beach. The big debate surrounding Honeymoon Island right now is whether
a boat ramp should be built on the land to increase access to the water.
Pinellas County officials are studying a list of 20 possible sites, including
Honeymoon. Dunedin commissioners have voted against the idea and many
have claimed the last thing a barrier island needs is a boat ramp. Others
have said the causeway is already busy and that if a boat ramp is built,
ambulances will have a tough time getting on site in time to assist anyone
who has been injured. One alternate idea being discussed is to build a
few smaller ramps in different places rather than a single large boat
ramp with multiple lanes.
Another barrier island that
is a favorite day trip destination from Tarpon Springs is Three-Rooker
Bar-actually a sand bar that protrudes above water even at high tide.
In fact, over the past decade, it has grown in size so much that many
locals are now calling it "Three- Rooker Island." (However,
recent storms have now since cut the "island" in half). It's
a bird sanctuary but you can go ashore and wander so long as you don't
trespass into the roped-off areas where birds are nesting (unlike Caladesi,
no dogs are allowed). "Three-Rooker has great shelling, swimming
and is a good anchorage," notes trailer boater Lou Galanos. He prefers
using the marina at Caladesi Island for overnights, but boaters who do
drop anchor off Three-Rook Bar report it has good holding capability for
an extended stay. It's also a good stopping-off point for anyone making
the trip from Caladesi across the inlet to St. Joseph Sound to Anclote
Key. "The area between Anclote Key and Three-Rooker is the access
to the Gulf of Mexico and as a result, it can get choppy when the wind
and the tide are opposing each other," cautions Larry Tieman of TowBoatU.S.
Tarpon Springs. "And when that occurs, it's not uncommon to have
3- to 4-foot waves there. I suggest newcomers to Tarpon Springs pay attention
to tides as well as wind direction."
While mechanical trouble is
the main reason BoatU.S. Members call Tieman, running aground is #2. "I
always tell boaters who aren't familiar with the area that the Number
One mistake I see around here is this: Just because there's water between
your present position and your final destination, this doesn't mean you
can get from here to there. In many cases, it's too shallow. I've had
people who aren't familiar with tides call for a tow because they are
aground and they'll explain that "they just came through here six
hours earlier!" Stay in the channels in the Anclote River and in
St. Joseph Sound, and you'll be OK." Tieman has these additional
suggestions when traveling in St. Joseph Sound: (1) Have a good chart,
and (2) keep green markers toward the direction of the Gulf of Mexico
(this is the Intracoastal Waterway).
Anclote Key Preserve State
Park sits about three miles offshore from the Anclote River. The north
side of the island is open for primitive camping (this means, you bring
your own equipment, water and food, have your boat's registration paperwork,
the number of campers; more info available at 727-469-5942). There are
grills and picnic areas in the area as well. The southern side of the
island is where you will find the Anclote KeyLighthouse. Built in 1887,
the lighthouse operated until 1984, and renovations by a group of lighthouse
history enthusiasts were completed just a year ago. Fishermen like Anclote
Key because the offshore sea grass beds provide exceptional trout and
drum fishing.
While the Greek divers probably
passed all of these day trip destinations en route to and from the sponge
beds offshore (and no doubt brought back a few of the trout and drum being
caught today), their prime focus was on what's beneath these bountiful
waters. Today, their work is celebrated, especially after a year like
the one about to pass.
Other Boat Ramps
from Lou Galanos
Hudson Beach, 6345 Clark Street
in Strickland Memorial Park, Hudson, Florida. No fee to launch or park.
There are 33 parking spaces. The ramp is 14 feet wide with a large floating
dock and provides direct access to the Gulf of Mexico.
H.R. Nick's Memorial Park Located
on Bayview Road in Port Richey, Florida, this ramp has 20 parking spaces
and there is no fee to launch or park. There are restrooms, tables and
grills on site, and restaurants (including Hooters) are within walking
distance. The 28-foot-wide ramp is in good condition although there are
reports of a heavy seaweed buildup on sections of the ramp.
Dunedin City Marina and Ramp
Located at 51 Main Street in Dunedin, there is a boat ramp next to the
municipal marina. Non-residents are charged $10 + tax to use the ramp.
More information is available at 727-298-3030. BoatU.S. Trailering Club
Member Randall Poppert launches his 18' open fisherman from Dunedin and
has this advice: This launch is very steep. At low tide, the launch vehicle
is on quite an incline. If there is a west wind, loose sea grass adds
to the already slippery ramp. The tow vehicle is in park, and the parking
brake applied, but only the rear wheels are locked. The vehicle could
start to slide on the slime and put you in deep trouble. To solve this
problem, I have made up a 1" x 3" board as a stiff leg to lock
down the front brakes also. The board is forked at one end to fit under
the steering wheel and then down to the depressed brake pedal. With the
front brakes locked down also, I feel a lot safer to stand in back of
the tow vehicle to launch or retrieve the boat. The length of the stiff
leg could be made adjustable if desired. When you're alone, this system
is better than using wheel chocks, which could also side. I thought this
info could help someone from getting into deep trouble if alone.
Tarpon Springs Visitors
Bureau www.tarponsprings.com
GETTING THERE:
from Miami 292 miles
from Dallas 1,164 miles
from Detroit 1,189 miles
from New York City 1,154 miles
from San Diego 2,461 miles |