Q & A

I've been looking at the safety cables instead of chains for my trailer and tow vehicle. Before I spend the money, do you have any strong feeling as to the pros and cons of each?
D. Solomon, Mobile, AL

MIKE: It is really a matter of preference. They will both do the job if installed correctly. I do see more use of the cables these days. Since they are self-coiling they do tend to stay out of the way when not in use and do not rattle like chains do. Just keep in mind the purpose of the cable/chain. If there is an accidental disconnect from the tow vehicle the cable/chain, crossed at the proper length, will cradle the trailer tongue and keep it off the ground and attached to maintain control. Since the cables are coiled and do not sag after you attach them you need to make sure that they are not too long so that when you do need them they are there to do the job. With chains you will know immediately if they are too long (or short) as they will hang at their true length.

GEORGE: Either type works but keep in mind some states don't allow cables. I live in Florida and they aren't legal here.

Love your Q&A section. When repacking trailer bearings, should you leave the center of the hub void, or fill it completely with grease. I've heard experts argue both ways. I personally pack it full because I believe no room, no water.
D. Anderson, Oxford, AL

GEORGE: It's not necessary to fill it all the way with grease. Too much and it can expand and blow out the dust cap. Check the directions for the bearing setup that you are using. They vary and that's where problems can occur.

MIKE: Your intuition is correct; fill the center of the hub with grease so that there are no air pockets. You do have a decision to make when putting on the center hub cover. If you are using bearing protectors, you can fill them with grease through the zerk fitting so that there aren't any air pockets. They are spring loaded so they will allow for heat expansion during travel. If you are using standard caps, do not fill them completely so that there is room for the heat expansion.

I notice that trailer tires of the same size designation vary in diameter between manufacturers. Example: for ST205/75D15 tires Carlisle shows a diameter of 27" while TaskMaster has 27.91". Will this difference in diameters cause a problem on a single axle trailer if a Carlisle tire is on one side a TaskMaster on the other (the trailer mfg thinks it is ok)? Why aren't the specs the same or is this within accepted
tolerances?
P. Folzenlogen, Longview, TX

MIKE: There is also a difference in width and load rating. The TaskMaster is rated at over 1800 pounds while the Carlisle is just under 1500 pounds. What is the weight of your load? Once you determine the total weight (including fuel, water, filled coolers and accessories) divide it by two and that is the minimum of your required tire rating. You should always build in a little extra cushion of 10%. If you are trailering short distances you may be ok with the tolerances if the load rating is met. If it was me and I was trailering long distances, I would match the tires with the same brand for consistency.

I need to buy a new winch for the trailer. Do you have any preferences as to buying one with a cable or a strap?
T. Patterson, Louisville, KY

GEORGE: Hands down, get the strap. Cables can cut into your hands and the strap will last a lot longer.

MIKE: My preference is the strap. It winds very smoothly without worry of uneven wraps on the winch spool. I also like the fact that I don't have to be concerned with cuts from frayed wires.

Should I be worried about my outboard engine moving from side to side while underway? It's locked into place but the engine actually rotates from right to left when I get above 45 mph.
D. Roberts, Holland, MI

MIKE: I would secure the engine in such a way that it does not have the opportunity to rotate from side to side. All you need to do is hit one good sized bump and you risk breaking the motor bracket or damaging the transom (or both). You should not need much more than a thick bungee cord to do the job.

How will I know if I have a bent axle on my trailer? Will it be seen in the tires or will it be felt in how the trailer handles when underway? K. Stevenson, Iowa City, IA

GEORGE: You'll know it's a bent axle within 300 miles of pulling the boat. The tires will begin to show excessive wear, depending on where the axle is bent. This will dictate how the tire wears down. You'll also sense the trailer pulling to one side.

MIKE: Yes, to both. If the axle is bent you may see tire wear on one side only or one tire could be wearing on the inside while the opposite tire is wearing on the outside. You can check the fore and aft alignment of the axle by measuring from the center of each hub spindle to the rear of the trailer frame. You should have equal measurements on each side. As far as feeling the misalignment while underway, that depends upon how misaligned/bent the axle is. You may notice that the trailer isn't tracking straight causing some pull in the steering or sway of the trailer.

I have a new boat on a tandem axle trailer and it feels like I'm actually dragging the tires when making a tight turn. Since I'm new to tandem axles, do I need to start making more open turns? I can see the flattening on the outside edge of the tires.

MIKE: You really are dragging the tires in a tight turn with a tandem axle trailer. I would avoid this maneuver if at all possible and take the wide turns as you mentioned. In addition to the possibility of damaging the tire tread in a tight turn I have seen tires peel right off of the rim.

GEORGE: It's normal. It all has to do with the way the weight transfers on a tandem axle when going into a turn. Don't be concerned about it. That said, do everything possible to avoid the tight turns.

My boat is hard to launch until the rollers "break free" on the ramp. What kind of lubricant can I use on my trailer rollers that will not wash out and pollute the water?
W. Dufrensne, Ossining, NY

GEORGE: You can use WD 40 but I think you're going to have to replace both the roller and the shaft. The shaft isn't galvanized so you're dealing with rust. The problem isn't going to stop until you get rid of the rusted shafts.

MIKE: Use the same waterproof grease that you are using for your wheel bearings. The best way to apply the grease is to remove the rollers from the shafts and generously coat the shaft. The grease will adhere to the shaft and should keep your rollers rolling all season long. There is a roller shaft on the market that has zerk fittings on the ends of the shaft that allow you to use your grease gun to lubricate the rollers without disassembly. They are 3-4 times more expensive than your basic roller but worth every penny when factoring the time saved to disassemble each roller assembly. Check with www.easternmarine.com if you want to upgrade your rollers to this style.

Comment from Trailering readers on George and Mike's Answers:
I really enjoy the magazine and read it cover to cover. The 'Q&A' Department is especially helpful. I have another opinion about D. Morley's (Lebanon, NH) problem of trailer lights burning out. Lights mounted on the upper end of extension tubes are subjected to abnormal vibrations transmitted from the trailer and by the wind ricocheting off the uprights. I'd replace the filament style lamp assemblies with LED assemblies - no filaments to burn out - problem solved. Thanks for a great magazine.
D. Taylor