Q Is the maintenance any different or is it just more frequent for trailers operating in salt water as compared to trailers in freshwater?
T. Lonzo New Orleans LA.

MIKE:The maintenance should be more frequent and more thorough on a trailer that is used in salt water conditions. The trailer should be rinsed thoroughly with fresh water after it has been submerged in salt water. There are hose attachments made that make it easier to reach those hard-to-get spots under the trailer. It attaches to the end of the hose and is "J" shaped. If you have drum brakes there are freshwater flushing kits that can be attached to the drums that enable you to hook a garden house to a single fitting and run freshwater through both drums. If you have disc brakes rinse them thoroughly along with the frame of the trailer. You should also check your electrical connections more frequently for corrosion and apply electrical grease to protect the connections. Don't forget your leaf springs. After rinsing them of salt water and allowing them to dry, spray a protective penetrant (i.e. CRC 6-56) in between the leafs and smear some water proof wheel bearing grease to the external surfaces.

With all that said, it is better to used a galvanized trailer for salt water conditions. Even then, I have seen painted steel axles used on galvanized trailers. This is a common area for failure while towing. If salt water gets trapped inside the axle, it can literally rust from the inside out. As this can not be seen by the owner, it is good practice to routinely check the condition of the axle. You can tap it with a hammer to detect weak spots where rust may be coming through.

GEORGE: I'll answer your question this way (and it's a very good question). I'm in the boat trailer business and all my trailers are aluminum with stainless steel hardware. Salt water is always going to be more labor intensive than fresh water and a galvanized steel trailer is going to require much more attention to any scratches because rust will jump right into the hole and set up shop. That's why with salt water in Florida, I use only aluminum trailers and maintenance time is one reason why.

Q I need to buy a trailer jack in the event I have a flat while underway (I know the Trailering Club will fix it but I like doing things myself if possible). Are jacks made specifically for a particular boat trailer or can I just buy anything that will safely life the trailer? What should I be looking for?
D. Vanderplough Coldwater MI.

GEORGE: As long as the jack has the weight capacity to lift the trailer, and you can safely position it under the trailer, then you will be fine. If you have a tandem axle, here's something I've done when a tire needs to be changed: If there is a nearby curb, I back the trailer over the curb so that the wheel needing repair is off the ground. If no curb is available, a large rock or a piece of wood will do the job too. No jack is needed.

MIKE:There are a few options for you to consider when purchasing/using a jack with your trailer. Depending on the combined weight of your boat and trailer, you may be able to use the scissor jack that came with your tow vehicle. I would only recommend that option if the boat/trailer weight is equal to or less than that of your tow vehicle. While you are out shopping for a jack you will most likely be looking at the "bottle" style hydraulic jacks that can be found in most automotive and hardware stores. They require minimal effort to lift the load and are compact for their capacity ratings. Make sure you get one that is rated with sufficient load capacity. Another option is a manual device that looks like a half circle. It is placed under the axle and the operator is required to back the trailer up until the device rotates and lifts the axle off the ground. I have mixed feelings on relying on this type of jack as my only means of lifting the trailer. 1. It requires that the conditions that you are in are ideal to use this jack. i.e. flat area, hard surface under the trailer, enough room to manuever the trailer, etc.... 2. It also requires that the lifting point is the axle. With any jack you should take extra care when using the axle as your lifting point. You should lift as closely to the wheel as possible so you are not putting too much pressure towards the center of the axle where you may bend or break it. If you axle does have internal rust or corrosion that you can not see you could be creating a dangerous situation.

Q Do you prefer cables or the regular safety chains to use with trailers?
C. Krofta Dallas TX

MIKE:My preference is cables. They are usually made of self-coiling galvanized cable, which takes the slack out of the excess length. This feature eliminates any ground dragging and it is a quieter option. Make sure they are rated to the proper weight requirements or your load. Don't forget to use S-hook keepers or chain links to keep the cable attached to the vehicle. We are seeing more states making them a mandatory requirement.

GEORGE: My personal preference is cables over chains. They don't rust if they sit in the water and they will easily retract.

Q If I am lucky enough to find a boat ramp with a parking lot where I can leave my trailer overnight, do you have any thoughts about what I can do to make sure the trailer is there when I bring the boat back to the ramp?
F. Troy Yuma AZ

GEORGE: There are locks that will fit over the actuator which have proven effective but if a thief wants to take a trailer, they can usually do it. Now, that said, I recommend you buy a Abloy padlock (it can't be sawed and it has a special key) with a length of Hammerlock chain (made in Miami at 800-755-8345). Hook your trailer to a tree or a pole and it is going to take a thief a very long time to get the trailer..and no thief wants to work that hard which is why they are in the business they're in.

MIKE: There are a couple precautionary measures that you can take. First, lock the coupler. If you are going to leave the trailer attached to the tow vehicle then lock the release mechanism with a lock specifically made for that purpose. There are many on the market. These locks are designed in such a way that a thief is unable to cut the locking bolt on either side of the coupler's release latch. Also, you will want to make sure that your receiver and hitch are locked as well. If the trailer is not attached to the vehicle then I would recommend the style of lock that fits up into the coupler where the trailer ball would normally go. There are a couple styles on the market.

You should also lock your wheels to the trailer. A length of heavy chain, or cable, run through each wheel and around the axle or trailer frame is a great deterrant to theft of the trailer or your wheels. Also, lock your spare tire. They are usually targeted at the boat ramps.

Q Do I want my hand-operated winch to bring the line in above-or under -the drum as it turns?
L. Howard Sausalito CA

MIKE:This may depend on the location of your bow eye. You should be able to adjust your winch on the winch stand so that the strap/cable leads horizontally to the bow eye without interfereing with the bow stop. I prefer that the strap/cable go over the bow stop so that there is no potential for rubbing or binding as the strap/cable pass through the stop.

Some winches are set up with a single ratchet pawl, meaning they have a specific direction to wind in, or let out, cable. It will ratchet in the cable so that the latch catches the drum and does not allow it to free spool if you accidentally let go of the handle. A freely spinning winch handle with a #### lb boat attached to it can easily break bones. There are also winches with a double ratchet pawl, meaning that you can use the ratcheting function in either direction. In that case you can set the cable or strap up to ride above or below the drum as long as you have achieved the horizontal relationship with the bow eye and you clear the bow stop.

Q I have a safety cable that attaches to the bow and the trailer frame. When I launch-should I unhook the winch cable from the bow eye and back the trailer to the water and then unhook the safety cable? Or should I do that in reverse? Or should I just unhook everything only when I get to the water? This was a debate at the boat ramp last year.
M. Lochland Northeast MD.

GEORGE: The first question you have to answer is how steep a ramp are you using? I'm conservative and prefer to have everything secure until it can safely be released. But if the ramp is gradual, I don't think you will gain that much time by unhooking one prior to back down or loading up.

MIKE: If you are like me, I like to have as much done prior to backing down that ramp as possible. I do not like to hold up the lines that may form at the ramp. I unhook the safety chain, but leave the winch cable attached. I have done the reverse and it causes problems. If you back down the ramp and the boat shifts it will put too much tension on the safety cable and you will not be able to unattach it. You would have to reattach the winch cable and try to muscle the boat back to its original position while on an incline. By leaving the winch cable attached, you do not have to worry about the boat shifting and you can ease the boat down the trailer when you are ready.

Q What is your opinion about removable trailer lights that are placed on the outboard or the guideposts when underway and light up when brakes are applied? I ask because I'm looking for a way to let people who tailgate me a chance to be able to see that I'm braking instead of rear-ending my boat and trailer.
K. Kaplan Sag Harbor NY

MIKE: I have used the guidepost system with the lights elevated on every boat that I have owned. There are numerous advantages associated with this:

• You have so much more control of the boat when loading and unloading. There is less worry when there is a crosswind or crosscurrent at the ramp. When you are ready to load you can drive right onto the trailer and the guideposts will line it up properly with the bunks the first time.
• Having the lights out of the water extends the life of the lights with reduced corrosion of connections. You do not have to worry about heated bulbs blowing when hitting cold water. You do not have to worry about disconnecting lights.
• The higher level of the lights make them more visable to traffic that is behind you.
• If you are loading the boat at night you can turn the lights on and they will guide you in. No more guessing where the ramp or trailer are in the dark.

GEORGE: A number of states have laws as to where trailer lights can-and can't be placed so make sure you read the rules in New York. In Florida, boat trailer lights can be as low as 15" off the ground but not any higher than 6 feet off the ground. And don't use these lights in place of the ones that are standard on your trailer. You want these in addition to-not in lieu of the lights. you already use.

Q I bought a used trailer and I notice it has a three-wire system for the lights. A fellow who fishes with me says I need to get a five-wire system. I havent used the lights at all since I only use the trailer during the daytime. Is there any advantage to a five-wrie over a three wire and what is the difference?
D. Sclieb Mille Lacs MN.

MIKE: It is not a matter of advantage or disadvantage, it is what is required for your lights to work properly with your vehicle. The most popular harnesses have 4 wires or 5 wires. The four wires connect: right turn/brake, left turn/brake, tail/marker lights, and the ground. Possibly your 3 wire set up has a separate ground wire . The 5 wire harnesses are used when the tow vehicle's turn signals are separate from the stop/tail lamps.

Q My truck has 16" tires. I'm going to replace my 17 year old trailer which has 15" tires with a new one that has 14" tires. Am I doing the right thing?
J Gardner, Cleveland OH.

MIKE: As long as the tires are rated properly for the load that you will be putting on them, you will be fine. If they are under rated, you will find performance characteristics similar to under inflated tires. You should have between 3" and 4" of clearance between your tire and fender. The size of your tow vehicle tires in relation to your trailer tires should not affect performance. You may have to adjust your trailer ball height so that the trailer remains horizontal to the ground. You can alter trailer ball height by changing the drop measurement of your ball mount.

GEORGE: Mike hits the nail on the head. This is an issue of the capacity of the axle that's on the trailer. 14" tires have a capacity of 3500 lbs, 15" tires can be used for as much as 5200 lbs. But you are also getting into the matter of lugs on the hub. Most 14" tires have 5 lugs while 15" tires have 6 lugs-though some are made for 5 lugs.

Q I have a dual axle trailer hauling a 5,000 pound boat. i use relable bearing system and traveled ten miles and felt the hubs and theywere very hot--I measured and the temp was 160 degrees on the disc brake. I replaced the bearings last October and I also replaced my disc brakes (on one axle--other axle has no brakes). My question is is there a temperature I need to look for before figuring the bearings need to be replaced or the heat is from the brakes?
H. Fastow Albany NY

MIKE: I do not know what the ideal temperature rating is for the hubs and brakes, but here are some things to consider:

-Make sure that the brake pads are not rubbing on the rotor. I have seen this happen in the past causing the wheel to get so hot it caught on fire. Make sure the brakes are properly adjusted.
-When replacing wheel bearings, and putting the hub back on the axle, do not overtighten the axle nut. It will apply too much pressure to the bearings causing increased friction and heat. You want to tighten them just enough to avoid play, but not too much to the point where rotation is restricted.
-Consider the hubs, that have recently been introduced to the market, that use 50 weight oil instead of wheel bearing grease. The oil is constantly circulated around the bearings thus reducing friction and wear. The hubs/bearings stay cooler and towing mileage is increased.