Q I have a concern about my trailer tires and perhaps you can advise me if I have a problem to worry about. Last weekend, I pulled my boat and trailer from my house to the storage lot, which is about 10 miles away via the freeway, driving between 60 and 65 miles per hour. After I parked it, I felt the trailer wheel hubs to see if they were warm as I had replaced the bearings earlier in the year. They were cool, but when I leaned on the tires as I was getting up I noticed the tires were both very warm.

What would make them so warm in such a short drive? I felt the car's tires and they were both cool. I bought the two tires last year for $78. each and they are supposedly trailer tires. They are Tran Rib LT, H78-15LT tires. They show a max load of 1830 lbs. at 45 lbs.PSI, 4 Ply Nylon, load Range C. My sail boat is approximately 2000 lbs. and the trailer probably another 500. For a single axle trailer, I would think the two tires should be able to handle it. I checked the tire pressure today and they were both at 30 lbs.
Do I have anything to worry about? And if so, what should I do? Thanks for any input....
Jim Kaiser, San Diego

GEORGE: You are using LT tires which are designed for use on a light truck (hence, the LT designation). Boat trailer tires use ST. You would do well to go back to the tire dealer and let him know what's he's done while having him replace the LT's with ST's.

MIKE: Running tires at a pressure below their rated capacity will cause them to run hot and create the potential for a blow out. By running a tire at 30 psi (when its max rating is 45) you are reducing the load capacity by slightly more than 20%. Based on the tire rating that you cited and the weight of your boat and trailer, these tires should be able to handle the load. Run them at the higher pressure rating and see if you notice a difference in the temperature.

Q Do I want to inflate my trailer tire to the max tire pressure after having driven an hour on the interstate and with another hour to go before stopping for the night? I know the air will expand when it gets warm but how much should be put in the tire ?
C. David, Omaha NE

MIKE: Unless your tire is losing air, you should not have to add air after starting your trip. You will want to make any air adjustments while the tire is cold. Even at that time you may not need/want to fill the tire to max pressure. If your tires are rated significantly higher than the load that you are hauling, you will be able to reduce pressure to provide a softer ride without sacrificing safety. Refer to the manufacturer of your tires for the suggested pressure rating at various loads.

GEORGE: Mike is right, make any changes to air pressure while the tire is cold. Now, that said, you can inflate the tires while on the road but it wouldn't hurt to make a stop after twenty minute just to be sure you haven't exceeded the maximum PSI.

Q What is your opinion of "cool hubs?" I understand they use oil rather than grease and I think George has talked about these in the past. What are the pros and cons of these because I'm going to have to change what I'm using now on my ranger trailer.
David Caffer Framingham, MA

GEORGE: "Cool hubs" are also called 'oil bath hubs" and the name is appropriate because they run at cooler temperatures than grease and that means you will extend bearing life. I like them because the poly dust cap is clear and you can see the oil level. I'm a big fan of cool hubs and I believe they we be part of every new boat trailer in the coming years.

MIKE: I am familiar with the "Turbo Lube" hubs from Tie Down Manufacturing. They use a 75-90 weight gear oil in place of traditional bearing grease. The advantages to this system are: Both front and rear bearings are equally and completely lubricated. The oil bath approach keeps your hub and bearings cooler. See-through oil cap gives you the ability to see that you have an adequate amount of lubrication as well as the ability to detect water intrusion. (There is a drain plug that would enable you to drain off water if it did make its way into the reservoir) With all of these factors considered, you will not only improve tow vehicle mileage you will also increase service intervals on your hubs/bearing.

The only disadvantage that I can think of is the higher initial cost of the hub assembly. Even then it is marginal (approximately $15-20 per hub) when you consider all of the advantages. These hubs were originally designed by the professional bass fisherman. They log a lot of miles with their trailers going to tournaments around the nation, and needed a system that would require less maintenance. They have already put it to the test and have proven its worth.

Q One of the trailer accessories I've been thinking about buying is the swing-away trailer tongue. I could use it when trying to store the trailer in a garage but I don't know if I trust something that isn't part of a single frame to carry three thousand pounds and hold up over bumps . What is your opinion of these? Bently Tyler Springfield MO.

MIKE: These are typical in the bass boat industry on dual-axle trailers. With the dual-axle trailer, you can reduce the tongue weight and reduce the pressure put on the junction between the trailer and the tongue. I do not have any specifications regarding weight limitations on this type of tongue. I would check with the manufacturer of this product and make sure it meets the specifications of your load.

GEORGE: If it were me, I'd be worried about maintaining the integrity of the trailer tongue. As a result, I'd put a 2 and one-half inch X two and one-half inch insert with a pin so that it can be moved in or out to shorten when trying to store the trailer. But, as Mike has suggested, check with the trailer manufacturer about weight loads that are placed on the trailer tongue.

Q I bought a bigger outboard for my boat and now I'm wondering if this means I gotta buy a more powerful winch. The total weight of the boat is now 450 pounds heavier than it was (including gas in the new tank) and that's now 50 pounds lighter than the 4,000 pound capacity of the winch I have. What's the verdict?
Terrence K. Patterson, Wheaton Illinois

MIKE: In order to give you an accurate answer, I will have to work under the assumption of three factors: 1. that you have a Powerwinch branded product 2. that you have a model T1650 unit or 3. that you have a model T4000 unit.

I use these two models because they both have a 4,000 lb rating (in one capacity or another). The rating system can create some confusion for the consumer. The ratings are presented in both approximate boat weight as well as in dead lift weight. The T1650 is rated for a 4,000 lb boat and a 1,650 lb dead lift. The T4000 is rated for an 11,500 lb boat and a 4,000 lb dead lift. See where the confusion can take place?

If we go on the premise that you have the smaller winch that is rated for a 4,000 lb boat and you are running the cable directly to the boat, you can double the capacity of your winch (deadlift) by doubling the line with a block and tackle approach. You run the winch cable through a block that is attached to your bow eye and then back to the winch. This would then increase your dead-lift capacity from 1,650 lbs to 3,300 lbs. If you have been using this winch successfully with the single-line set up, adding 450 lbs can be accommodated by using the double-line. If you do have the T4000 you have plenty of capacity to handle your boat with the new motor.

Have you factored in all of the accessories that you have installed, or carry, on your boat? You must keep in mind the weight of fuel, water, coolers with ice, and all of the other "essentials" that you are loading your boat with when figuring overall boat weight. This overall weight is important not only for the winch, but also for the trailer capacity and towing vehicle capacity.

Q Can you tell me when I should begin looking into getting an "anti-sway bar" and what the heck it is? My trailer does seem to be affected by passing semis on the interstate and so Im wondering if this would help me have a smoother ride.
John Mahrs, Bellingham, Washington

GEORGE: First of all, if you are experiencing sway from passing trucks on the road or at speeds higher than 45 mph, the first thing to check is tongue weight (5-10% of the boat and trailer weight). If that weight is OK, then the sway barwill help stabilize the A-frame of the trailer (which is the design used in most boat trailers).

MIKE: The sway controller is a bar that attaches between the trailer and the hitch that provides horizontal support to the trailer to prevent sway from crosswinds. If you are having a problem with this when trailering then it is time to get it, but......there may be other factors that are contributing to this problem that you should look at first. Here is a list of some of the things you should be looking at:

1. Improper tongue weight, or length of trailer tongue.
2. Center of gravity may be too high.
3. Load is too heavy for the trailer.
4. Incorrect tire pressure (not enough), or incorrect tire size (too small).

I am not steering you away from the sway bar, I just don't want you to mask another potential problem before checking it out. You should expect to pay around $100 for the set up. There are units in the marketplace that are not to be used with surge brakes, if you have them look for a manufacturer that specifies the compatability.

Q I live in Florida about 40 miles north of Tampa and plan to store a trailer in my yard for an indefinite amount of time (probably years). I have it up on blocks now and I hear pro and con on the tires before I cover them. Do I keep the pressure as is, or, do I let pressure out?
Thank you,
Mr. Robert Guenkel Spring Hill, FL

MIKE: When a trailer is in long-term storage, there are three steps to take to add life to a tire:
1. Put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires.
2. Lower the air pressure. Do not lower so much as to lose the seal on the bead and the rim.
3. Cover the tires to protect from U.V. light.
Make sure air pressure is brought back up to specifications prior to use. Driving on too little air pressure will overheat the tire and cause the potential of tire failure.