Q I bought a bigger outboard for my boat and now I'm wondering if this means I gotta buy a more powerful winch. The total weight of the boat is now 450 pounds heavier than it was (including gas in the new tank) and that's now 50 pounds lighter than the 4,000 pound capacity of the winch I have. What's the verdict?
Terrence K. Patterson, Wheaton Illinois

MIKE: In order to give you an accurate answer, I will have to work under the assumption of three factors: 1. that you have a Powerwinch branded product 2. that you have a model T1650 unit or 3. that you have a model T4000 unit.

I use these two models because they both have a 4,000 lb rating (in one capacity or another). The rating system can create some confusion for the consumer. The ratings are presented in both approximate boat weight as well as in dead lift weight. The T1650 is rated for a 4,000 lb boat and a 1,650 lb dead lift. The T4000 is rated for an 11,500 lb boat and a 4,000 lb dead lift. See where the confusion can take place?

If we go on the premise that you have the smaller winch that is rated for a 4,000 lb boat and you are running the cable directly to the boat, you can double the capacity of your winch (deadlift) by doubling the line with a block and tackle approach. You run the winch cable through a block that is attached to your bow eye and then back to the winch. This would then increase your dead-lift capacity from 1,650 lbs to 3,300 lbs. If you have been using this winch successfully with the single-line set up, adding 450 lbs can be accommodated by using the double-line. If you do have the T4000 you have plenty of capacity to handle your boat with the new motor.

Have you factored in all of the accessories that you have installed, or carry, on your boat? You must keep in mind the weight of fuel, water, coolers with ice, and all of the other "essentials" that you are loading your boat with when figuring overall boat weight. This overall weight is important not only for the winch, but also for the trailer capacity and towing vehicle capacity.

Q Can you tell me when I should begin looking into getting an "anti-sway bar" and what the heck it is? My trailer does seem to be affected by passing semis on the interstate and so Im wondering if this would help me have a smoother ride.
John Mahrs, Bellingham, Washington

GEORGE: First of all, if you are experiencing sway from passing trucks on the road or at speeds higher than 45 mph, the first thing to check is tongue weight (5-10% of the boat and trailer weight). If that weight is OK, then the sway barwill help stabilize the A-frame of the trailer (which is the design used in most boat trailers).

MIKE: The sway controller is a bar that attaches between the trailer and the hitch that provides horizontal support to the trailer to prevent sway from crosswinds. If you are having a problem with this when trailering then it is time to get it, but......there may be other factors that are contributing to this problem that you should look at first. Here is a list of some of the things you should be looking at:

1. Improper tongue weight, or length of trailer tongue.
2. Center of gravity may be too high.
3. Load is too heavy for the trailer.
4. Incorrect tire pressure (not enough), or incorrect tire size (too small).

I am not steering you away from the sway bar, I just don't want you to mask another potential problem before checking it out. You should expect to pay around $100 for the set up. There are units in the marketplace that are not to be used with surge brakes, if you have them look for a manufacturer that specifies the compatability.

Q I live in Florida about 40 miles north of Tampa and plan to store a trailer in my yard for an indefinite amount of time (probably years). I have it up on blocks now and I hear pro and con on the tires before I cover them. Do I keep the pressure as is, or, do I let pressure out?
Mr. Robert Guenkel Spring Hill, Fl.

MIKE: When a trailer is in long-term storage, there are three steps to take to add life to a tire:
1. Put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires.
2. Lower the air pressure. Do not lower so much as to lose the seal on the bead and the rim.
3. Cover the tires to protect from U.V. light.

Make sure air pressure is brought back up to specifications prior to use. Driving on too little air pressure will overheat the tire and cause the potential of tire failure.

Q I have bunks and want to spray them prior to loading my boat at the ramp. Do I want to spray the entire length of the bunks or do I only spray the top half since that's the part of the bunk where the boat is winched up to? Or do I spray just the part that doesn't get wet? Yeah, I'm confused.
K. Sanderson Marion MA.

MIKE: I'm confused too. What are you spraying the bunks with? Typically bunks are constructed of pressure treated wood and are covered with marine grade carpeting (which has higher resistance to uv light, gasoline and oils). There are trailer "slicks" available, which are teflon strips that adhere to the top of the bunks that make it easier for the boat to slide on and off. I have not had any experience of spraying carpeted bunks (or slicks) with anything. The other types of bunks are roller bunks. Instead of the wood bunk, this is a length of galvanized metal with a number of rubber rollers attached. Again, they do not need to be sprayed with anything except fresh water after being submerged in saltwater.

GEORGE: My experience is if the bunks are wet, the hull will slide just fine. The only other problem I see here is you may not be getting the boat close enough to the winch in the first place. If the hull is more than a foot away from the winch, then you haven't loaded it far enough on the trailer.

Q I know this has nothing to do with a trailer but what would be the benefit of my buying a 4WD tow vehicle with a slip differential? Is there any reason why I should spend the extra $$ to do it?
W. Newsom Sarasota FL

GEORGE: A tow vehicle with a slip differential has its right rear tire as the driving tire and if it starts spinning on a boat ramp, the left rear tire will start turning. Now, I notice you live in Florida where most of the ramps are pretty shallow so I'd advise against getting the slip differential-unless you are going to be taking the boat to places with steep ramps. Something else to consider is you may just need a longer trailer to keep more of the tow vehicle's rear wheels out of the water. Aluminum trailers are built with longer tongues for this very purpose.

MIKE: It depends on your towing circumstances. The slip differential will enable you to get better traction with both wheels simultaneously, instead of just one. It is not absolutely necessary, but if you are using ramps that have a steep pitch and have a layer of slime on them, it may be a worthwhile investment. Also, if you are pulling a load that is close to the maximum towing capacity of the vehicle it would also be wise to have the slip differential.

Q My trailer seems to move from side to side when I'm traveling at speeds higher than 45 mph. A guy at the boat ramp suggests I first check tongue weight and then look into something called a load leveling hitch? I've never heard of such a hitch. What is it?
C. Kazlow Salt Lake City UT

MIKE: There are many problems that can be associated with this symptom. Tongue weight is a common problem with swaying and is the first one that I would address. It is the easiest to address and doesn't require an investment of additional equipment. Fishtailing and sway is caused when the tongue weight is too light. Move the trailer load forward (or move axles aft) until you reach the proper tongue weight. The optimal tongue weight should be 7-8% of gross trailer weight.

Another problem associated with swaying is the load's center of gravity is too high. You will need to determine if you can lower the load by adjusting the bunks/rollers.

Make sure your tire pressure is inflated to its maximum pressure rating indicated on the sidewall.
When all else fails, install a sway controller. The load leveling hitch that you mention is more of a remedy for rear end sag on your vehicle. They spread the tongue weight so that it is shared by all of the trailer and tow vehicle wheels instead of concentrating solely on the vehicle's rear wheels. The sway controller is a mechanism (looks like a bar) that is mounted on the frame of the trailer and is connected to the tow vehicle hitch. If you have surge brakes, their operation could be affected by the installation of a sway bar. This should be your last resort after trying to correct the problem.

GEORGE: I think you need to reposition your boat more than buy a load levleing hitch. It sounds like you have negative tongue weight so follow Mike's suggestions. You might want to put a few bags of sand in the bow of the boat to add more tongue weight but moving the boat forward on the trailer, or the axles farther back, will solve the problem without a load leveling hitch-which is a common item used on utility trailers.

Q I'm going to take my trailer to a local shop for an advertised spring checkup. I want to ask them to be specific about what I get for my money and I'm hopeful you might suggest necessary areas to be inspected on the trailer?
D. Gardiner, Dimondale, MI.

MIKE: You need to ask for the following specific items to be checked:

• Lighting: condition of wiring and connectors. Bulbs should be checked and sockets lubed with electrical grease.
• Wheels: check tire wear and pressure, condition of bearings/seals/spindles, condition of brake system (if applicable) and adjust as necessary.
• Suspension:check/lube leaf springs or inspect torsion bars/coil springs.
• Structure: Check rollers/shafts for wear and lubrication. If you have bunk boards check for rot and replace carpeting as needed.Look for stress cracks and fractures in the frame. Inspect joints where welds have been made.
• Coupler-check for rust/corrosion and condition of clamp. Lubricate.

GEORGE: I offer a Spring Maintenance Special so I'm well aware of what a good checklist should include. Check the wheel bearings and replace if necessary. If the bearings are in good condition, then check the grease and add/replace as needed. Check the winch straps and grease the gears in the winch (too often overlooked).As Mike indicates, the tires and electrical system have to be inspected. Be sure to have the brake fluid level checked and if necessary, bleed and replace. Finally, tighten anything that is loose. Sometime the important things are right in front of you.