Q I'm going to convert my trailer brakes from drum to disc. Can I use the same bearing grease or does it really matter that much?
Lisle T. Traverse City, Michigan

GEORGE: You are smart to ask that question because it shows you look at the whole picture. That said, bearing grease only applies to bearings which is why it's named that way.

MIKE: George is right on the money. You can use the same waterproof bearing grease for both applications.

Q I am having problems backing up my trailer (it has surge brakes) and I'm wondering if there is anything I can do. Ive been getting out and hitting the lever on the top of the ball but this isn't a good way to go because Ive forgotten about the lever position too many times and tried to pull the trailer in forward. I'm at the point of thinking about getting rid of surge brakes altogether.
Joe. L Dayton, Ohio

MIKE: You need to install a free-backing solenoid. This product is installed on your actuator and connects to your back-up lights on the tow vehicle. When you are backing your trailer (up or down a hill) the solenoid will engage and not allow the brakes to engage. This item will cost you $45-$50. Now, having said this, make sure your surge brakes are drum (not disc). The solenoid is designed for use ONLY with drum brake systems.

GEORGE: To pick up on Mike's points, the "lockout solenoid" as it's called is installed on the actuator where the fluid comes out of the master cylinder. Now there's another way to handle this problem as well: You can run a separate wire to the lockout from your tow vehicle lights. The downside is you have to have your lights on in order for it to work and leaving lights on in the daytime while you are enjoying a boat ride can ruin a good thing.

Q For whatever reason, I keep throwing off the dust cap on my bearings. It's always the same wheel and the same side (dual axle, front axle, left side if it matters). Any idea why and any suggestions as to what I should be doing differently?
Wilson C. Omaha, Nebraska

GEORGE: This is, unfortunately, an all too common occurrence. Fortunately, there is a simple solution. When putting a new dust cap on, flatten out the lip just a hair. This will keep it where you want it to be.

MIKE: Have you tried a dust cap from another wheel, or a new one? If not, that is the first step. If you have and you are having the same results it may be time to change the hub. I have not seen a hub opening wear from the repeated removal and installation of the dust cap when changing bearing. Measure the inside dimension of the hub using a micrometer and make sure that you are using the proper sized dust cap.

Q It's October. Should I fill my gas tank and put stabilizer in or should I run the engine until its almost empty and let it sit for the winter?
Dick R. Mt. Washington, NH

MIKE: Definitely fill the tank and add the stabilizer. By doing so you will eliminate the build up of condensation and dangerous vapors in the tank.

GEORGE: Fill the tank and add stabilizer. Letting a gas tank that is less than full sit through the winter is an invitation for water to "drop" in and that's something you don't want to have when you start the engine next spring. Don't fill it too full because you need to allow for fumes to expand (make sure the fuel level isn't up to the rim of the gas tank).

Q If my boat sits off center on my roller trailer, what can I do to get it right? It seems to load this way all the time.
Erik D. Salisbury, Maryland

GEORGE: Boy, if there ever was a question for a dealer who has sold you the trailer, this is it. I'll presume, though that you are on your own. Guide Poles might help you load the boat so that it is properly seated on the trailer. Another possibility is to take a good look at those rollers and see if they can be positioned differently. The boat is coming onto the trailer wrong so moving the rollers is something you should look into. Most trailers with rollers are designed for adjustments like this.

Q I'm "single-handing" a 1000# skiff with a 315 PowerWinch on a roller trailer. That winch is a web-strap model. I wore out the clutch discs in a season because the vibration and pressure of long trailering caused them to slip, requiring me to periodically stop and winch-on about three inches. Suspecting something was wrong, I re-read the manual and spoke to them on the phone. The manufacturer says not to trailer with the web-strap supporting the pull of a vessel's bow-eye even when a loose safety-chain is attached between the
winch mount and bow-eye. Instead, they want the strain only on the safety-chain and bow-stop by winching the bow up the bow-stop, hooking the safety-chain to the bow-eye, then de-tensioning the web-strap by backing off on the winch's clutch-knob. This transfers the tension to the chain for towing. What is your opinion of this connection and procedure?
John F., New York

MIKE: While I have not had this particular experience with an electric winch, it does make sense. I would always recommend a bow safety strap in any towing situation. Since the manufacturer is recommending backing off the brake on the winch it is important that your safety chain/device be very taught, not allowing any movement of the boat on the trailer while towing. One set up that I have seen and really like is the use of a turnbuckle in place of the chain. It allows you to make a very solid connection between the bow eye of the boat and the eye on the winch mount (install one if there is not one already). The turnbuckle is very strong. The tension is adjustable allowing you to hold the bow of the boat tightly up against the bow stop. With this type of connection you can take the load off of the winch strap.