Q I'm going to buy a new boat trailer. Do I want torsion axles and if so, why? Is anything gained by having them on a trailer?
J. Harris, Dayton Ohio

MIKE: I'll list the pros and the cons as I see them.
The advantages to torsion axles over traditional axles with leaf springs are:
1. Totally self-contained so there is no need for other conventional components.
2. Can be installed so that frame height is reduced. Lowers center of gravity and provides more stable of a ride.
3. Independent suspension among wheels. Better for absorbing road bumps.
4. Easy installation.
Disadvantages:
1. More costly per axle.
2. If water does get in them there is the risk of unseen corrosion.

GEORGE: I'm in the business of trailer boat rentals and for the past seven years have been using only torsion axles (Loadmaster builds my trailers). I've had no problems whatsoever so I guess this is a roundabout way of saying buy a trailer with torsion axles.

Q Is there any solid information on what wheel bearing grease performs the best on boat trailers? Also, with the use of bearing buddy caps what would the recommended service intervals be for re-packing the bearings? I have been using the Sta Lube 3blue3 marine grade wheel bearing grease and re-packing once a year. Thanks,
Les Blum Leaburg, Oregon

GEORGE: The issue as to how frequent a boater should lubricate-change-repack bearings is based on a single word: usage. I know folks who change everything every 1,000 miles. In my shop we do it every 10,000 miles, if not sooner. I've been impressed with a pair of new bearing systems called PosiLube and Aqua Lube. It uses a new technique that employs a double lipped seal instead of the standard single lip. There is no chance of encountering an air pocket as happens from time to time with Bearing Buddies.

Q I am looking for some information on how to setup a drive-on trailer. I have talked to several shops and each has a different idea on how it should be done. I need some ideas. Are there specific items I need to have (other than bunks of course).

GEORGE: By a drive-on trailer I presume you intend to use this for powerloading, in which you drive the boat on to the trailer at the ramp. You need to make sure the trailer bunks are adjustable so there is an ability to move them to such a position that the hull is supported. In addition, you need to be sure the back of the bunks is even with the back of the boat. Finally, if this is a double axle trailer, keep in mind you want the boat's weight evenly distributed between the axles.

Q The cap on my surge brake reservoir is loose and I never really paid attention to it until just now. And I've had my trailer in the water all summer which means it may have been under water for a period while launching and retrieving. Should I be worried? The brakes work fine.
A Bovino Denver CO

MIKE: They may work for the short term, but I would definitely recommend bleeding the entire system and replacing the brake fluid and reservoir cap. I would even go as far as pulling the brake cylinders and rebuilding them. If the water has been in the lines for any length of time, and you have steel cylinders, the corrosion process could be well under way. Many of the newer brake systems are now using aluminum cylinders.

GEORGE: I think you are talking about the cap on your master cylinder. Here's my advice: Don't presume there isn't a problem (and I won't apologize for the double negative because this is important). Yes, the brakes may have worked fine the last time you used them but does that mean they'll automatically work fine the next time you use them? The answer is change the fluid and make sure you use DOT 3-Grade (Department of Transportation Grade 3 brake fluid).

Q My trailer has started squeaking when I hit a bump and this is a new sound. I think it's probably the leaf springs but I'm not sure what to do. WD 40 oil? Grease? And would I put it where the spring attaches to the frame? Thanks.
T Carlton LaHoha CA.

GEORGE: Here's the technical way to solve the problem: Take a hammer and whack the surface of the leaf springs to dislodge any rust that may have accumulated. Then spray the surface with WD 40 oil. This will take the squeak out of the spring.

MIKE: With leaf springs, they usually have a rubber bushing at the end pivot points. If they are cracked and dried out they will need to be replaced. If they look okay, just force some grease (wheel bearing grease is good) into the pivot points. You can spray WD 40 between the springs, but I would also recommend coating the springs with the wheel bearing grease also. Smear this stuff along the sides and along any contact points with the trailer. It is as good as any remedy to reduce the squeaks and prolong the life of the springs with the added measure of rust prevention.

If you note excessive rust, cracks or wear save yourself the trouble and replace the springs.

Q I am going to buy a new trailer for my boat. Do trailer manufacturers have a list of hull designs and boat models which can be used to find the right kind of trailer to use? I don't trust the dealer I've been talking to because he keeps pointing at a trailer in the showroom and says it will fit the hull. How do I know it will fit and what should I look for to make sure it fits?
D Tessler Clarksville TN

MIKE: These are considerations to make when purchasing a new trailer for your boat:

1. Bunk style or Roller style trailer. When determining which you would prefer, keep in the mind the ramps that you most frequent. If you are using a steep ramp you may want to go with the bunk style trailer where it will be easy to "float" the boat off of the trailer. These trailers require lower maintenance and usually cost a little less. They also provide more continuous lateral support, which could minimize damage from going over severe road conditions.

If you are in an area where ramps are not that steep, consider a roller style trailer where you can roll the boat off the trailer with little effort. Re-loading is also easier regardless of ramp grade. It is easier to roll the boat back on as opposed to dragging it across bunks. There are pads available to put on bunks that make for a slicker surface.

When making your choice between these trailer types you should also consider hull shape. You will want to provide support to the reinforced areas of the hull. Examples of these areas are the keel, chines/strakes of the hull, bulkheads and transom. Typically on a bunk trailer there are two bunks that support the hull, and prevent side to side movement, along with rollers under the keel.

2. Choose the right size trailer in terms of length, width and capacity. Length is self explanatory. The trailer should be long enough so that the boat's entire length is supported. Width can vary depending on the distance between the fenders. It is best to have the boat's center of gravity as low as possible when sitting on the trailer. Not only is it safer while towing but will also make for easier launching. Ideally the boat would be between the fenders with little or no overhang. When figuring capacity, take into account a fully loaded boat. Add the weight of the boat/motor, gas, water, coolers filled with ice, additional gear and supplies, etc.... After you have done that you may want to add another 5-10% for a safety factor. Depending on the weight you may consider a multiple axle trailer vs. a single axle. Boats/motors are usually sold as a package with a trailer. You may want to contact the manufacturer of the boat to see what manufacturers of trailers they are using to set up the factory packages.

GEORGE: In general terms, boat trailer manufacturers have every boat hull on a computer and can tell you what trailer best supports a particular model. If the salesman in the showroom insists a particular trailer will fit any 17-foot boat, tell him that Boston Whaler builds two different kinds of 17-foot boats and each requires a different design of trailer. I have always been of the opinion if a salesman says "it's no problem," then it has the potential of becoming a problem.