Q & A

Q. I am new to boating and I have been having some problems loading my boat onto a trailer. I know that it is important to ensure that the boat is centered as much as possible. My trailer only has one set of bunks in the rear, a bow support made of PVC in a Y formation, and a bow stop and winch combo. I have seen other boats with bunkers positioned vertically in the back with a slight angle that help center a boat and I have also seen trailers with a second set of bunkers towards the bow. I think it is supposed to push the keel as the trailer comes into contact with the boat. I have a 23ft vessel that seems to act like a sail when I am trying to load the boat.
J. Lawrence, Robertsdale, AL

MIKE: Here are some tips on how to make your launching and loading experience better. First let's address your bunks. Since you make reference to vertically mounted bunks on other trailers I assume that yours are horizontally mounted. Take a look at your bunk brackets and determine if they are fixed or pivoting. I prefer pivoting as they conform to the shape of the hull when loading and help center the boat. Also look at the position of the bunks under the hull. If your hull has chines (ridges) you should position the bunks so that the chine rests up against the bunk. This will also help the hull find the center of the trailer. I would highly recommend the installation of trailer guides. There are a few different styles; the most common being the white PVC poles that stick up on either side of the trailer and extend beyond the rub rail of the boat. You will also see bunk board and roller styles that are positioned on each side of the hull. Any one of these styles will be a big help on centering your boat on the trailer, especially on a windy day.

GEORGE: I see two solutions: (1) you are backing the trailer too deep into the water so the boat can't set up on the bunks. Try doing this without backing in so far. (2) The current or crosswind is going to push your boat to the side and make lining up with the trailer a problem. Get guideposts but make sure you are using galvanized steel-not aluminum guideposts (both will use PVC).

Q. I'm in need of replacement tires for my single axle ShoreLandr trailer (1995, for my Four Winns Sundowner 205). Total boat + trailer weight is ~ 4200 lbs. The tires for this trailer are ST225/75-R15 (LR D). I've done a lot of on-line searching and I have two questions:

1. Bias belted tires or radials? My trailering right now is limited to hooking up and moving the boat to the ramp 300 ft from my parking space at our boat club. Maybe 30-mile trip now and again to take it in for service. I'm getting mixed signals on whether bias or radial tires are the better option for my single axle trailer with limited trailering range. Heard that radials are better but contribute to sway and instability. Can you please set me straight? Bias ply or bias belted?

2. LOTS of online negative feedback on Carlisle and Titan trailer tires. It's hard to find a positive endorsement on any of them. Can you offer a suggestion on which brand to go with (Cooper, Denman, Goodyear Marathon)?
Thanks in advance.
T. Zondlon, Knoxville, TN

GEORGE: A few thoughts: first, don't use radials on one side and bias ply on the other side. I was in the business and saw too many trailers set up this way and the owner always said he heard good things about both so he bought both! Bias are more forgiving if you aren't good about checking tire pressure. But bias ply will also dry rot faster if exposed to the sun. Radials are superior so long as the proper tire pressure is maintained. The key to all of this, regardless of the brand you buy, is keeping the tires at 50 PSI.

MIKE: You will find mixed opinions on both types of tires. It may be in your best interest to go with what is readily available in the market place. Due to the popularity of radials on trailers, it is becoming harder and harder to find bias ply tires in anything over 13". Radials will give you a smoother ride and their tendency to sway is typically experienced when they are run below their recommended psi. Bias plys have tougher sidewalls and will hold up better to abrasions from curbs and stones. If you are going to be making longer trips you will have an easier time finding radials in an emergency situation. I think you can find negatives on just about any tire out there. I have owned many Carlisle tires (bias ply) without any issues. The Goodyear Marathons are definitely the most popular radial found on trailers. I would put my consumer hat on and compare prices and warranties.

Q. What's the difference-if any, between electric brakes and electric over hydraulic brakes? Do you have a preference?
T. Patterson, Treadwell Bay, NY

GEORGE: If you're in salt water you want electric over hydraulic.

Q. I'm looking at the spindle on my trailer and I can clearly see rust. Is this something that can be removed with a wire brush? Is there anything else I should be doing or should I just leave well enough alone? L. Kuzman, Phoenix AZ

MIKE: You can clean up the spindle with emery cloth. Where you want to pay particular attention is where the seal rides on the spindle. If this area is pitted or has burrs you may want to consider replacing it. If it is smooth in this area go ahead with the clean up and repack with plenty of grease.

GEORGE: I use sandpaper. Don't use the wire brush because you're going to do more damage to the spindle. Then use grease.

Q. I'm new to trailers so forgive this question: Do I buy guide-ons to line up the boat on the trailer when I'm approaching in my boat from the water or do I buy guide-ons so I can see the back of the trailer when backing my truck (and trailer)? I've seen them at a 45-degree angle on the trailer. Is that a good idea?
J. Allen, Clear Lake, CA

GEORGE: Both will help center the boat. The 45 degree angle guide-ons are loose and probably aluminum. Remember the trailer has a lot of vibration, which will loosen the guide-ons.

MIKE: I use guide-on's for both situations. That is why I prefer the pole style guide-on's that stick up. Not only do they help me center the boat on the trailer, I can tell where my empty trailer is when backing down the ramp. We have had suggestions from our members who put markings on poles so that they can tell how far to back the trailer down into the water. I have never seen them mounted at 45 degrees and can't think of a reason why I would want to mount them that way.

Q. I have no idea how to measure the tongue weight on my trailer and am wondering if you have suggestions. I really don't want to go through the lumber and bathroom scale routine to do it.
T. Preston, Dayton OH

MIKE: Sherline Products in Vista, CA (www.sherline.com) makes a trailer tongue weight scale. They offer 3 models: with 1,000 lb, 2,000 lb or 5,000 lb gauges. They sell them for $110.

GEORGE: Go to the weigh station on the Interstate or on a highway near you and park the trailer tongue on the scale (use the trailer jack to keep it level). You'll have to disconnect the truck from the trailer to do this. That will give you the tongue weight-don't put the entire trailer on the scale-you want to get the tongue weight-not the total weight.

Q. Our 24' Maxum is on the trailer parked on the side of the house. Unfortunately, all 4 wheels on the trailer are locked or frozen and we cannot move the trailer. What can we do to free the trailer wheels so we can move the boat and trailer?
Thanks for your help. V. Kello, Jericho, NY

GEORGE: I've seen this 100 times. It's not an easy task. First, if you have room, back the trailer up swiftly. The wheel cylinder is locked against the drum and this might be enough to get things disconnected. Secondly, get a flashlight and a screwdriver and look behind the wheels for a rubber backing plate. Take it off and try to separate the cylinder with the screwdriver from the brake drum.

MIKE: First you must determine what the problem is. If the boat/trailer have been on the side of the house for an extended period of time then your problems are most likely due to corrosion. Start with your brake system. You may have a frozen wheel cylinder, badly corroded brake parts, plugged brake lines or misadjusted drums.

Q. I am purchasing a new 23 ft deep-vee boat with a single outboard engine in 2008 (weight of 4500 lbs for the loaded boat). The boat will be trailered a lot from my home to local lakes, and to the coast. I am trying to put together a list of items needed to buy the best trailer from the start. I am thinking of a double-axle trailer with an aluminum frame, disc brakes with stainless steel rotors, bearing buddies, LED lights, bunk slicks, radial tires, and a full size radial spare. Is there anything else I should consider when starting out fresh? Torsion bars?
Many thanks. I. Konermann Charlotte, NC

MIKE: I know George is a big proponent of torsion bars. They certainly require less maintenance and last longer. You may also want to consider an electric winch, a set of guide-on's and a motor support.

GEORGE: Yes, get the torsion bars with all stainless steel hardware (no zinc). But take the time and refigure your numbers. The boat is loaded at 4500 lbs? Does that include the weight of fuel (6lbs) and water (8.3lbs)? Does that include the weight of the trailer?

Q. A guy at the boat ramp took a look at my 13" wheel and said I should get 14" wheels on the trailer. I told him thanks but the trailer operates just fine. He said the smaller the wheels the more the wheel rotates which is probably true and that means the bearings work all the more. Is this guy onto something or should I just ignore him?
D. Callas, Winchester VA

MIKE: There is some truth to what he is saying. You will have fewer rotations and in any given distance and you will increase your load capacity. More importantly are you experiencing any problems? Are you burning through bearings? Are you right on the edge of your 13" tires load limits? I think the old adage "If it isn't broke, don't fix it" applies here.

GEORGE: Unless you need more capacity for the trailer axles, the 13" wheels are fine.

Q. I have a 2003 Shoreland'r tandem axel trailer. What is the best way to jack up a trailer to remove a tire or replace a bearing? Is a car jack safe to use? Or should I use a different kind of Jack?
F. Henger, Chicago, IL

GEORGE: I have had a lot of success with the RGM-Rube Goldberg Method. Find a curb and position a trailer tire on top of it so the other tire is off the ground. You can use that in place of a jack. Otherwise, get a garage floor jack.

MIKE: The use of the car's jack to safely lift your trailer will depend on a few things. First thing to consider is the weight of the loaded trailer and the capacity of the jack. Next you will have to see if you have the clearance under your axle to insert the jack. Many folks carry a small floor jack that is rated for the job. Place the jack under the axle and as close to the edge as possible. Keep in mind most axles are hollow and may rust from the inside out causing weakening. If the pad of your jack isn't very large place a block of wood underneath the axle to spread the load across the jack pad. Avoid using your trailer's frame as a jack point. You have a good chance of bending/twisting the frame. With a tandem axle trailer you could carry a small ramp on which you could drive up onto with the good tire, giving you the clearance necessary to change your flat.