Q & A

Is there any rule about how far back past the trailer frame bunks can go? I ask because I've been dealing with too much tongue weight and moving the boat back is the easy answer.
D. Allen, San Diego, CA

MIKE: You will see many different set ups out there. I have seen smaller sailboats extending well beyond the trailer frame but then again they do not have the engine weight as a major factor. Most powerboat set ups that I have seen place the transom very close to the rear cross member of the trailer. There may be slight overhang but it is minimal. There is a lot of motor weight that needs to be supported and as you move the transom further from the cross member you are putting more stress between the bunks which could compromise their integrity. Another option that most trailers offer is multiple adjustments to move the axle(s) fore and aft so that you can achieve balance without compromising support. It sounds like more work (and it is) but it may be the best way to address your balance problem.

GEORGE: The rule I use is the end of the bunks are even with the bottom of the transom. Now, that said, you can move the boat farther back an inch or so but nothing more than that.

Hey Guys. Should I be concerned about trailering my boat without additional motor support/ braces. I have a 16' Prosport skiff fiberglass hull with a Yamaha 90 that I pull with motor up and tilt support levers in place. The only boats I ever see with additional braces are aluminum. Am I asking for future problems?
G. Bostwick, Plymouth, FL

GEORGE: I wouldn't be concerned at all. And Mike is going to disagree.

MIKE: Motor supports should be used on boats of all materials. The supports that are incorporated into the engine bracket will benefit your hydraulic seals but will not help the boat's transom. The motor support that I like to see in use fit between the lower unit of the motor and the trailer. This type of support transfers all of the weight from the transom to the trailer. It only takes one large bounce of your motor to do damage.

I have a 1986 Christ Craft Scorpion 210 open bow. The trailer is a custom model trailer of metal tube construction. The trailer needs new tires new brakes, new wiring, new winch and the list goes on. Am I better off to purchase a new trailer and if so what is the best on the market. I plan to be boating in salt water in the future. Thanks for your help there are so many manufactures out there I have no idea where to start, it seems that no one does reviews on trailers like they do on boats and trucks.
W. Melke, Dayton, OH

MIKE: I believe that you will find that once you start adding everything up it would be more cost effective to replace the trailer. Not only do you need to factor in the cost of the parts but you also must consider the sweat equity (and bruised knuckles) that you will encounter. I recently rebuilt a small trailer for my aluminum fishing boat and while I was able to keep the costs down on the parts it did take up quite a bit of my fishing time. If I had to do it over again I would have replaced the trailer. There are many good trailer manufacturers out there for your size boat. For your use in saltwater you should look for a galvanized or aluminum trailer, not painted steel.
I would find a reputable trailer dealer in your local area that will provide you with their recommendations as well as their service in assisting you with the initial setup for your boat and trailer as well as in the future for any service needs that may arise.

GEORGE: I used to have LoadMaster Trailers when I was in the boat trailer rental business so I would suggest you go down the new trailer route. They have oversized I-beams, which I like. Get Kodiak disc brakes with torsion axles. If you can, buy an aluminum trailer with stainless steel hardware. The metal tube you have isn't good and it's going to rust right through sooner than later.

George and Mike, I own a 1997 23 foot Monterey deck boat with the original trailer which is rusted badly. I've had two flats in the last 3 long trips. Unfortunately on expressways. I'm planning on buying a Sealoader alunimum trailer. How do I estimate where to position the boat to obtain 7 or 8% of the weight on the trailer tongue?
Emerson Ladd, Elk Grove Village, IL

GEORGE: Set the boat's transom on the end of the bunks. Then set the winch post/stanchion so it can crank the boat into position. That's where you start..

MIKE: When you purchase the trailer that is rated for your boat length and weight it will be pretty close in the initial set up. To fine tune it load the boat on the trailer and determine the tongue weight. Adjustments can typically be made by moving the winch stand fore and aft. Keep an eye on the transom and make sure that it is well supported by the bunks and does not extend beyond the bunks. It may take a couple tries so bring the scale to the launch ramp with you so that you can get it right on the spot. I don't suggest doing this on a busy weekend at the ramp. Go midweek when it is quiet and you can take your time.

Hi Mike and George, I have 2 questions about my trailer: Performance tandem axle (no brakes) with B78-13 tires on 5 lug wheels. My boat is a 1990 Wellcraft 18 Sport CC with a 115 Johnson. (1). When buying new bearings, what size or type do I ask for and (2) When installing new, or re-packing the old bearings and hubs, can they be packed with automotive wheel bearing grease? You guys have a great column that has helped me a lot.
Chris Ball, Geneva, AL

MIKE: There is not a standard hub size according to tire size and number of lugs. You will need to remove the hubs from the axles and disassemble to determine the proper size bearings that you will need. There is a part number stamped on the outer surface of the bearing but I would bring it with me to the parts store to make sure that I get the right ones. Also, make sure you remove the inner and outer bearings. They are not always the same size as some trailers use tapered spindles. Answer (2) Two points to consider: 1. Do not mix different types of grease. Many are not compatible with each other and will have adverse chemical reactions. 2. Use high quality premium water insoluble grease. I would stick with one that specifies marine usage.

GEORGE: I'm not sure about the bearing size so take them out and go to a marine store or an auto parts store. Bearings are pretty standard. Don't use automotive grease. Buy high performance marine grease.

Could you provide me with some information regarding tire selection for a trailer. Such as the difference between standard tires and trailer tires. The pros and cons regarding radials vs. standard tires on a trailer.
R.Jackson, Memphis, TN

GEORGE: Bias ply are more forgiving if you run the trailer at low tire pressure. Radials will delaminate. Always maintain the correct tire pressure.

MIKE: I think there is some confusion in your question. Let's address the first part: The differences between standard tires (car tires?) and trailer tires, which are marked with the suffix "ST", are the trailer tires are more durable and have stronger sidewalls. Do not use car tires on a trailer.

Now that we have removed car tires from the equation, we can look at the comparison of radial tires and bias ply tires.

Radial tires have become more readily available in aftermarket retail stores, especially in the 13"-15" sizes. Due to the popularity of radials on trailers, it is becoming harder and harder to find bias ply tires in anything over 13". Radials will give you a smoother ride and their tendency to sway is typically experienced when they are run below their recommended psi. Bias plys have tougher sidewalls and will hold up better to abrasions from curbs and stones. If you are going to be making longer trips you will have an easier time finding radials in an emergency situation.