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Boating in the
49th State
Alaska is far away
In fact, you can be in
Alaska and it's still far away. If you put the most eastern part of the state
in Atlanta, Georgia, the easternmost part of the state in Atlanta, Georgia,
the westernmost part of Alaska would be in Los Angeles. That's how big it
is.
For example, Trailering
Club Member Jeff Nicholas made the trip from his home in Spartanburg, South
Carolina to Homer, Alaska on the southern tip of Kachemak Bay and back towing
his boat. Total distance: 13,000 miles.
"There are Anchorage
residents who pull their boats south to Homer for fishing and it's a four-and-one-half
hour trip one way," observes Jeff
Johnson of the state's Office of Boating Safety in Anchorage. "We
don't think anything of doing that."
That's because only a
third of the state has roads. Johnson notes that outside of cities like Anchorage,
Homer, Fairbanks, Seward, the main way of getting around is by boat or airplane.
But where there are roads, there are plenty of boats and tow vehicles.
"We have a transient population," observes Johnson, "and a lot
of this is the result of the fact there are two military bases here (Elmendorf
Air Force Base and the U.S. Army's Fort Richardson) plus we have an active
oil industry. So people are very fluid and many have come here with boats on
trailers."
Before You Go
"My advice for anyone giving serious thought to pulling a boat to Alaska
is this," offers BoatU.S. Member John Wright in Watsonville, California:
who tows a 20-foot Crestliner. "Don't start with looking at what's in your
boat. Instead, start with what's inside your head. Do some research. Get the
necessary charts. Know where you can anchor, where you can get fuel, know the
tides and the circumstances that may make them extreme (full moon or new moon
is one such factor) and always have plans to be at anchor no later than 4 p.m.
If you can do all of this, I will tell you you're not going to be sorry you made
the trip. Alaska is an incredibly beautiful part of the world." Wright has
some experience with making the trip: He's done it seven times and will be on
the road (and water) for an eighth trip next month.
BoatU.S. Member Richard
Cook has traveled to Alaska a number of times from his home in Utah. "Challenges include unpredictable and often cool, wet
and windy weather," he says. "You need good clothing and outerwear,
and a really well equipped and well maintained cruising boat, almost certainly
with a cabin. You need backup for many systems, tools and spares, and experience
using them. You need to keep on top of tides and currents, and marine weather
conditions and forecast, and be willing to let the weather determine where
and when you go -- adhering closely to a schedule can be a disaster." Cook
has done this with a Bounty 257 as well as a C-Dory 22 Cruiser.
"I tell Alaska residents as well as visitors to do a serious pre-departure
check," advises Jeff Johnson."Know how your boat trailer is put together
and always carry spare parts, like bearings and a spare tire. Help isn't always
close by and that holds true for the road and the water. We have to rely on ourselves.
Let's put it like this: We don't have a lot of collisions up here."
Getting There
There are three ways to make the trip from the lower 48 contiguous states:
drive it, take a ferry or a combination of the two.
The 1,422 mile-long Alaskan
Canadian Highway, also called "the AlCan," begins
at Dawson Creek in British Columbia (it's 1,000 miles from Spokane, Washington
and about 810 miles from Seattle) makes a westward turn at Prince Rupert
ending at Delta Junction, Alaska. Some boaters, like Richard Cook and Jeff
Nicholas, will launch at Prince Rupert crossing about 100 miles of open water
before putting in at Ketchikan, Alaska on the southeast corner of the state
for fuel, supplies and to clear customs.
The AlCan was completed
in eight months as a military supply route after Japan bombed Pearl Harbor.
Today, it's a well-traveled paved road with adequate gas stations along the
way. Many who have used the AlCan strongly suggest purchasing the magazine "The MilePost" (www.themilepost.com)
which has an up-to-date guide to locations for fuel, hotels, food and places
of interest along the way.
The second way is more
expensive but easier on the tow vehicle mileage: the Alaskan Marine Highway.
While costly, it will save 700 - 1,000 miles of driving depending on
the destination. Begun in the 1960's the Marine Highway is a ferry system
serving 30 communities between Bellingham, Washington, British Columbia
and Alaska. A number of trailer boaters who have made the trip suggest
driving one way and taking the ferry back. This allows time to witness
the Alaskan landscape (puffins, whales, bald eagles and glaciers to name
just a few of the common sights).
A third option, using
parts of the first two, is preferred by John Wright: From his home in Watsonville,
California, he'll drive to Bellingham, Washington (972 miles) where he'll
take on food supplies (he and his wife stay on their boat) and do a thorough
inspection of the trailer. Then they take a Washington State Ferry (different
from the Alaska Marine Highway ferry) to Vancouver Island.
"Be prepared for Canadian Customs officials to do a search of everything
you are bringing in," he warns. "I've done this numerous times and
I can tell you if there is something suspicious going on, the inspections and
searches will be all the more detailed. It's important to have all your documents
including passports and boat documentation ready for the customs agent. It's
not as simple as it used to be but it's because of the crazy world we live in
now." Wright recalls officials finding a plastic bag of aspirin
and doing an inspection of each pill in the event he might be trying
to bring drugs into the country.
From there they pull the
boat north to Port Hardy and launch at low tide for a four-to-five-hour run
in the Queen Charlotte Sound to the Inside Passage of Alaska. From there,
they explore the many inlets and fjords (long narrow bays with steep sides)
that make up the Inside Passage coastline.
Places and Things
The Inside Passage is a 500-mile-long body of water running north to south
between the Alaskan mainland and coastal islands. The dozen different cruise
ship lines bringing half of all the tourists to the state every year all
travel the Inside Passage, stopping at the ports of Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway
and Sitka. This is also a popular destination for kayakers and canoeists.
Boats can be launched
in two places in and near Juneau: the Amalga Boat Ramp and Echo Cove (south
of Juneau Harbor). Anglers begin their journeys for Chinook salmon from these
facilities. And in keeping with the theme of wide-open spaces, the 16-million-acre
Tongass National Forest (it's the size of West Virginia) takes up much of
the shoreline. This and the smaller Chugach National Forest (it's only 5.9
million acres) are available for recreation purposes as well as some limited
commercial pursuits such as logging. Juneau is the third largest city in
the state and began as a site of the 19th Century gold rush. Today, it is
the topic of debate among residents, as recently as February of this year,
to move the state capital from Juneau to Anchorage, the state's largest city.
So far, Juneau has won out but arguing about the location of the center of
government has been going on since 1925---decades before Alaska even became
a state.
Juneau is situated at
the outlet of the Lynn Canal, one of the deepest fjords in North America
(depths reach more than 2,000 feet) that runs 90 miles to the town of Skagway.
As the Lynn Canal is used by the Alaskan Marine Highway System and cruise
ships today, it was also used as a "highway" during
the Alaskan gold rush. But you'll see smaller boats too. It is not unheard
of to launch in Juneau and travel the canal while someone else drives the
tow vehicle and trailer to Skagway where the boat is retrieved at the town's
small boat harbor (the cost is $5 to launch and retrieve in Skagway).
From Juneau, it's worth
parking the boat for a day and taking a ferry across the Inside Passage to
Sitka, located on the west side of Baranof Island (it's also served by the
Marine Highway and any number of ferries operating out of Juneau). Sitka
was the site of the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States in
1867. For a while, it was the first capital of the territory. James Michener
researched and wrote his bestseller Alaska in Sitka.
The Kenai Peninsula
About 160 miles south of Anchorage is the Kenai Peninsula, a 150-mile long
strip of land with Cook Inlet on its north shore, the Gulf of Alaska on the
southeastern shore and Kachemak Bay at the end. The towns of Homer, Soldotna
and Seward are located on the peninsula and are a destination for anyone
with a taste for salmon, be it Chinook, Coho, Pink or Sockeye.
Soldotna is at the mouth
of the Kenai River, an 80-mile long waterway cutting through the center of
the peninsula. This river has the distinction of producing more record breaking
fish than any other river in the world (a Chinook Salmon at 97 lbs. 4 oz.
was pulled from the river recently). The city operates the Centennial and
the Swiftwater boat ramps, both with a launch fee of $10.50.
"From Soldotna, you'll
see a lot of jet boats going 'upriver'," notes
Jeff Varvils, manager of the West Marine store in Anchorage and host of Alaska
Outdoors that will be shown on Fox television this October. "The jet
boats draw less and that's why there are so many of them used in this part
of the river. There are a number of state parks upriver where you can launch
into deeper water."
Farther south is the town
of Seward with a small boat harbor on Resurrection Bay. "It's a small
fishing community," says Varvils, "and
it has the feel of an old-time East Coast fishing village." It's
also the closest town to Kenai Fjords National Park, a 650,000 acre expanse
along Resurrection Bay's northeast shoreline. "There are any number
of small cruise boats that will take you to the park," Varvils says, " but
you can take your own boat just as easily. It's not unheard of to drive
the boat right up to a glacier or to beach it along the shore. But if
you do beach it, keep in mind the shore is rocky. A lot of folks with
their own boats will tow a dinghy for this purpose."
"Most of the time
Seward is quiet on weekdays," observes Jeff Johnson, "but
if it's related to a run of fish then roads, boat ramps, stores, hotels
become crowded."
Homer, with a population
of 5,300, just got its first traffic light three years ago, in part because
of the ever increasing number of sport fishermen coming to town. Calling
itself the "Halibut Capital of the World," the
city has a small boat harbor with a ramp (cost is $12 per day) located
on "the
spit"---a five-mile sliver of land stretching into Kachemak
Bay.
The Homer Spit was almost
taken off the map after the largest earthquake ever to hit North America
occurred on Easter Sunday in 1964. More than 116 were killed, mostly by tsunamis
that resulted from the 8.6 Richter scale event.
"Kachemak Bay is a
gorgeous part of Alaska," observes West Marine's
Varvils. "It's small but you'll see whales and puffins when
you're out there. It's also known for the 'clam tides'---at low tide
you can walk out and dig through the huge population of clams."
On the way from Anchorage
to both Homer and Seward, you are going to come across the Turnagain Arm---
so named by explorer Captain Cook who had been sailing north along the West
Coast in search of a trans-Atlantic passage in North America but had finally
given up and opted to "turn again." It's a narrow
branch of water that flows into Cook Inlet but is home to the phenomena
called "bore
tides" that usually occur after an extreme low tide, a few
days before or after a full or new moon. The bore tide is literally
a wave that sweeps in very quickly and is something trailer boat
owners should watch from the road rather than the water. The Turnagin
Arm bore tide is so popular that it even has its own YouTube video.
"I've seen it any number of times," Jeff Varvils says. " It looks
like a six-foot wall of water and ice, it's almost like a curtain that sweeps
across the width of the arm. Sometimes folks will be out there with surfboards
or they'll have kites hooked to their boards and take a ride on the bore tide.
This is why no recreational boats are allowed in Turnagain Arm; too many bad
things can occur." Visitors are urged to avoid walking out into the water
during low tide because the soft muddy bottom is akin to quicksand.
Alaska is going to show you the world in its natural state---or
get you as close as is possible. If you are there in June during
the Summer Solstice (June 20 this year) you'll never have to turn
on the headlights, as the sky remains sunlit long into the night.
"Winter is nine months
long," observes Jeff Johnson who has lived in
Anchorage since 1978. "Alaskans are crazy about getting
out to enjoy the scenery. I always think of the words Chaucer
used in The Knight's Tale: 'Days like this are far too rare
to be cheapened with heavy-handed words.'"
Heavy-handed or not, words
can still paint quite a nice picture.
"Going to Alaska includes watching humpback whales up close," says
trailer boater Richard Cook (no relation to the "Captain" above). "You'll
see incredible numbers of eagles and sea birds, sea otters, sea lions, bears,
fantastic fishing, crab and shrimp, glaciers calving icebergs into the sea, dramatic
snow-capped mountains, beautiful and peaceful anchorages and incredibly gorgeous
scenery in general."
Alaska Fast Facts:
- Alaska has more boats
than snowmobiles.
- Alaska is more than
twice the size of Texas. It's 2,261 miles east to west and 1,420 miles
north to south. Alaska occupies 16% of the total U.S. land mass. The Alaskan
shoreline is 33,904 miles.
- They lived in Alaska:
Actress Michelle Johnson, born in Anchorage (Melrose Place, Judging Amy,
Blame It on Rio).
Actress Irene Bedard, born in Anchorage (The New World, The Outer Limits)
Actor Khleo Thomas, (ER, CSI)
Actor Joshua Morrow, born in Juneau (The Young and the Restless)
- The "Bridge to Nowhere"-
a $398 million benchmark approved by Congress that was built to connect
52 residents to the mainland, has become a tourist spot. It's located in
Ketchikan in the southeast part of the state. Yes, trailer boaters can
go under the bridge if desired.
Alaska Fishing License www.admin.adfg.state.ak.us/license
Alaska Marine Highway System www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs
Inside Passage information www.alaskainfo.org
Alaska Office of Boating Safety www.alaskaboatingsafety.org
West Marine, 8401 Dimond D Circle, Anchorage AK 907-349-5299
But if you do need assistance...
When you take your family and your boat to Alaska, you'll have Trailer Assist
benefits in the event your trailer needs repairs. And if something happens
out on the water, bring along BoatU.S. Unlimited Towing.
It will provide up to 30 miles of towing from wherever your boat breaks down
or goes aground along the way. If you want to get towed further, our Unlimited
Gold Card will have your boat towed up to 50 miles!
BoatU.S. Vessel Assist
partners, have over 100 towboats along the West Coast and British Columbia
that are ready to "assist"
24 hours a day. For more information, go to www.BoatUS.com/vesselassist. |