Archived Trailer Guys Questions
After retrieving my boat after a trial run last weekend, the water depth at ramp (plus incline of ramp) was such that I was unable to pull the boat to only 1 ft. from the front rollers. Now that I'm in "dry dock" at home, is there a way to move the boat forward? The boat is 24ft. on bunk boards supports. Its weight is about 6,000 pounds on the twin axle trailer. Thank You. L. Wilson
I have seen emergency breakaway cables and chains on some boat trailers (as opposed to safety chains). What are your thoughts about these and is there any guideline for how long they should be or circumstances under which they should be carried? D. Kissenly, Ellsworth, MN
I brought a use boat and its trailer about 3 years ago. The boat is a 1976 24' Fiberform Bermuda with a Ford 351 (or Mercruiser 233), the trailer is a 1975 FLOAT-ON trailer with bunks and 20.5 x 8 x 10 5 lug tires. My question is what determines the correct length of a trailer, and is it ok of about two feet of the boat to stick off the end of the trailer? If not (short of buying a new trailer), what can be done to fix this problem? The boat and trailer have not been on the road since I brought then because the trailer and boat needed a lot of T.L.C. Will I be able to tow my boat to my favorite ramp in Wildwood NJ? Can I get bigger tires? Please help. Boat will be towed by an 81 GMC Suburban with a 454 engine. A.Thompson, West Chester, PA
A guy at the boat ramp watched me pull my boat out last year and offered this advice which I haven't followed up on. He said I should have tie downs on either side of the axle (I have a single axle trailer). Is this a rule that I haven't heard about? T. Lootens, Houston TX
A guy I see at the boat ramp and I were talking over the weekend and he was telling me how he replaced the jack that came with his trailer and bought "a drop jack." I've never heard of a drop jack. Is this worth spending the $$ on something like this and what are the benefits of one? S. Cavitch, Cleveland, OH
Can you explain the pins connections between the trailer and my truck? My truck has 7 and my trailer has 5. Why can't manufacturers get on the same page and make one connection that fits both truck and trailer? I have an adaptor but the whole thing seems unnecessary. A. Maitland, Madison, WI
Have you ever heard of a boat trailer having a battery charger on it? I'm going to buy a new trailer and two places have told me it's good to have. I'm not convinced. Is it for an electric winch? F. Harris, Huntington Beach, CA
Folks, I took delivery of a new, trailerable sailboat from the manufacturer in January 2005. It came with a bunk-type trailer designed specifically for my hull, but manufactured by a different vendor. Recently, I became aware that despite using the supplied trailering strap to secure the stern of the boat to the trailer, the hull has shifting during trailering and there are tire scuff marks on the hull chines. While I'm concerned at the potential for hull damage, I'm much more concerned about the potential to damage a tire while trailering at highway speeds and the obvious safety implications. The trailer manufacturer has stated they designed and manufactured the trailer to the specifications provided by the boat manufacturer, even though they were concerned with the potential for hulls to come into contact with tires. To solve this problem, they have offered to sell me a new axle and U-bolts at cost ($150) plus shipping as an oversized parcel from southern California to Washington State. This trailer was manufactured on October 26, 2004 and is within the warranty period that covers materials and workmanship. I feel that proper design is part of workmanship. Since this is a safety problem on a new trailer, I don't believe I should have to pay for an error or bad decision made by the trailer manufacturer. What should I do to assert my rights...or do I really have any in this situation?
I have LED lights on my trailer. A fellow boater I see has advised I disconnect the lights from the tow vehicle before launching (I drive 90 minutes to the ramp). I thought LED didn't need to be disconnected. It's no big deal to do this (I make a point of never being in a hurry at the ramp) but I'm curious as to your thoughts on this? D. Becker, East Lansing, MI
Boat U.S. I have just had a new trailer made made and it sits higher than the old trailer, same MFG and sits on the same bunker config. The launching and trailing of my boat is difficult due the new height. Is there a "Water line" recommedation hieght for trailers? Or how far back should the towing car/truck be to safely launch?. The new trailer forces my truck aft wheels to be submerge.
HI guys, I need to replace a worn winch strap on my tandem axel trailer for my 20' grady white. the boat weighs about 2800 lbs. w/o motor and gas, holds 80 gallons of fuel, and motor weighs approx. 500 lbs. What kind of winch and what type of strap should I replace it with.
Purchased a new 2005 Century 2600 WA with twin 150 Yamaha 4-strokes in November 2005. Boat has been great, but we suffered through months of issues with the manufacturer of the trailer the dealer sold us. I won't bore you with the myriad of issues we've been through, but included leaking brakes actuators, improper weight distribution and also incurred severe gelcoat damage from original inappropriate front bunk setup. I'll summarize current situation. Our third re-work of trailer seems close to correct. Fully loaded boat can weigh approx. 8,400 lbs. Aluminum tandem axle trailer rated to 10,000 lbs. Dual hydraulic disk brakes. Rides well on the road. Still working on weight distribution and securing the boat. Manufacturer completely reworked trailer to lighten tongue weight. This included moving axles rearward and installing longer main bunks that now extend to end of the hull. Original bow roller set up was replaced by manufacturer with custom one-piece vertical rear facing v-shaped bunk that captures bow and keeps boat low and level. Problem involves securing to trailer. Boat is driven onto trailer up to custom v-shaped vertical bunk (replaced roller), strap is attached and cranked tight. When driven out onto level ground, the bow is then always 4 - 8 inches back away from the vertical bunk. Assuming the boat was somehow "sliding back", I once cranked the strap very tight, intending to loosen on level ground. The weight actually disformed the winch (2,400 lb. rating) and bent several bolts!! I then tried securing a very stout safety chain and hook before pulling out. The force when I pulled out ripped the welded safety chain loop right off the trailer!! I'm lost. The boat looks to be level and secure on the trailer. Main bunks are within 2 inches of stern. But I cannot keep bow forward securely where it should be, and causing bow to hop when traversing a bump when trailering. Someone suggested aluminum I-beams are too short, causing cantilever effect. Right now rear bunks do extend about two feet beyond I-beams. Someone else suggested axles needed to be moved even further back. They are centered at the front of the stern open cockpit area (walk around design). Most of weight is in fuel tank under the length of this area and of course the two 4-strokes on back. Any ideas why the boat won't stay forward. On the ramp it look snug and secure, but when I ger level it is always back 4 - 8 inches. I drive out slow and stady and it doesn't appear the hull is actually sliding back in the bunks. Maybe it is a cantelever effect, for what else could exert the forces involved? HELP!! THANKS.
Hi - I am restoring a 1973 Reinell Center Counsel 20 feet six inch boat. I also have an older Murray trailer - the trailer can take a boat even 3 feet longer, but it has 4 lug wheels - my question is - How much does my boat weigh? - I only have tires rated for about 1200 lbs each - I am worried the boat is heavier that that - any guess what a typical boat of this size could weigh? - please advise and thenk you in advance for you help - BH Bill Hubbard
I need to have more hieght at my trailer hitch ball.Will i change the tounge wieght or the towing capacity of my towing system if i turn the tounge upside down?.I did this on a previous vehicle without a problem.please let me know.thank you.rick stevens
I am placeing my 23ft Grady White (6000 lbs.) on a bunk trailer. What type of strap is best for my boat and trailer (alluminum)Gunnel or Transome? Some people say the transome straps are not adaquate and will not hold a heavy boat. I was trying to avoid climbing on and off of the boat to attach a gunnel strap but secutity and safety are more important. What do you recommend?
Hi Guys, Got a question while working on my boat (on the trailer) I tried to lower the tounge jack and ended up snaping the gear inside it. I bought a new jack and Im ready to put it on but now im stumped as to the best way to go about this. There is not enought room to mount the new jack next to the old one so I was thinking about putting it further down where the trailer forks out. Is that okay? Do you have a better suggestion?
I have a 1994 Calkins trailer for my 1995 LUND Pro V. The trailer and the boat came as a package deal. My boating buddy is always criticizing the length of the safety chain on the trailer. He says that it should be long enough to make "wide turns". I agree but I have never had any problems with the chain length as is. Is there some kind of "standard length"for safety chains other then long enough to make wide turns? Thanks for any info you might provide/suggest. ED Timmons
I purchased a new 19' Sea Pro bay boat last year. It came with a Magic Tilt trailor but I believe it was not set right. I can not lower the engine to vertical when the boat is on the trailor. The dealer said there was nothing he could do when I complained. I do not talk with the dealer anymore, but I am hoping you could refer me to anyone in Fort Walton Beach, FL who knows how to rig a trailor correctly for the boat that is on it or provide some website I can refer to so I can do it myself if necessary. Thanks for any help you can provide. r, Kevin Greybill
How can I determine the correct tongue weight for my boat/ trailer combo when fully loaded with fuel and fishing gear. As it sits now, it takes two of us to lift the tongue of the trailer.( the boat is a "06" Lund 17-6" "Mr. Pike" alum.boat,90hp. Merc. 2 stroke, on a Load Rite single axle trailer)(40 gal. fuel cap). Thanks in advance, Jim Carrick
The trailer that I am looking to purchase has two almost vertical boards in place of the typical four flat mounted boards as support for the boat. They are ajustable. I could send a picture but you do not support attachments. Are two boards sufficient to support the boat? Bob Kopicki
I just received a new Cobalt 222 and trailer. While trailering the boat I have noticed that the winch seems to high on the trailer. This is causing the strap/metal hook to dig into the rubber bow gaurd when I tighten the winch. I have looked for an alignment guide or document to show proper winch alignment but can not find anything. Is there a proper way to align a winch vertically? A picture of the proper bow gaurd and winch placemetn would be great. You would think this information would be out there but it seems hard to find and it seems everyone has a different opinion.
I am new to boating and I have been having some problems loading my boat onto a trailer. I know that it is importaint to ensure that the boat is centered as much as possible. My trailer only has one set of bunks in the rear, a bow support made of pvc in a Y formation, and a bow stop and winch combo. I have seen other boats with bunkers positioned vertically in the back with a slight angle that help center a boat and I have also seen trailers with a second set of bunkers towards the bow. I think it is supposed to push the keel as the trailer comes into contact with the boat. I have a 23ft vessel that seems to act like a sail when I am trying to load the boat.
Hey Guys. Should I be concerned about trailering my boat without additional motor support/ braces. I have a 16' prosport skiff fiberglass hull with a yamaha 90 that I pull with motor up and tilt support levers in place. The only boats I ever see with additional braces are aluminum. Am I asking for future problems.
Hi there! We have a 29 foot cruiser that we trailer. It is often difficult loading and unloading the boat at the ramp due to the large size. We were thinking about widening the span of the bunks to lower the boat on the trailer hoping that would make life a bit easier. Is there a recommended width for the bunk spans?
Hello, I need a little help. I own a 2005 Magic Tilt aluminum trailer with tandem axles,GVWR is 8000 lbs,new Towmaster tires size ST205 75 D14, F78 14 st class C .The boat is a 2005 Polar 23ft walkaround, 5000 lbs dry weight. My problem is that I keep having blowouts. The last tires had less than 600 miles on them, all tires were within 1 pound of max. pressure. I had only been driving hour and a half at 58 to 60 mph.Hubs are cool, tires are hot.Always pass. side of trailer, different axle. Please , any help would be much appreciated.Thank-you Keith
Dear Boat Trailering Guys I have looked all over the internet and can find no good info on the new 2008 electric break systems. Is the rational still the same to go for electric over hydrolic? Disc ve pad?
Guys, need you expert advise. Just picked up another boat. The trailer isa heritage trailer with two rollers on the bow stop. The question is where does the bow strap go. Between the two rollers with the bow eye in between the rollers or under the bottom roller with the bow eye under the bottom roller. Sorry I'm so lame about this but I just can't remember and I've tried both ways and neither one looks right. So I'm going to the experts. Thank you.
I am going to buy a new trailer for my 19" cc wellcraft. This trailer will spend most of the time in the driveway as I live on the intercoastal waterway in FL. I am getting different opinions on whether to get radial or bias tires. Your suggestion? Anything else I should consider in buying a new trauler?
Mike and George, I am towing a 2007 Edgewater 245CC with twin 150's on a 2007 Magic Tilt TALS 2460. Ever since I have had this set up I can not get my boat to fit evenly on the trailer. I've tried changing my boat ramp, adjusting how much of the trailer is in or out of the water but no joy. I've tried to contact Magic Tilt directly but no luck there either. I have even to hold the boats transom with a line while pulling the boat out still no luck. Is there any measurements I can do or suggestions you have to fix my dilemma. V/R Bob
I am looking to purchase a new trailer for my FourWinns 240 Horizon. The trailer that came with the boat new has been nothing but problems since day one. I would like to know if you recommend leaf springs or torsion? Most all the trailers I have looked at only use 14" tires on this size trailer, which seem rather undersized to me considering the weight of this boat. Also, is there a trailer manufacture that you recommend? I appreciate your help.
Dear Mike and George: My question is regarding the use of a Reese Hitch Extender (adds 14" or 18" to a 2" x 2" receiver). Can I use it while towing my Fishin Barge 21 pontoon boat with my Honda Ridgeline truck about 5 miles to the launch ramp? Once again, thank you for your help. Hector Brito