Making Music In Nashville

Yes, there are 80 record labels based here and more than 180 recording studios. There's also the Country Music Hall of- and Walk of-Fame. On any given night there are more than 100 live bands performing. Nashville is also home to the Grand Ole Opry and the world famous Gibson Guitars. Overlooked is the Cumberland River, which has been passing by long before a song was ever sung. Today, between Mile Marker 185 on the northwest side of the city to Mile Marker 200 on the northeast side there still lots of music, but lesser known, some great boating. Nashville had its beginning along this winding, 687-mile river in the 1700's, when settlers and Cherokee Indians battled for territory. Camps were built in strategic locations offering protection and resources, and the many bends of the Cumberland River were vital to safety. The first building, Fort Nashborough, built when settlers crossed a frozen river to set up homes, has long since been destroyed. But today, along Nashville's Riverfront Park, a replica is open for all to explore.

"There's history all along the Cumberland," notes West Marine assistant manager Bill Cook, who has traveled these waters in his 40-foot Cheoy Lee trawler, BonnFire (Bill's wife is Bonnie while Bill is a retired fire fighter - hence the name). "There's the fort of course, and the fact that the north came through during the Civil War but then you've got some modern sites as well. Riverfront Park has outdoor concerts during the summer and boaters can tie up-with a reservation (call ahead 615-862-8472)-and wander the city. It's a neat combination." Dock space can be reserved for a four hour minimum or for as long as 24 hours. The famous Ryman Auditorium (site of the original Grand Ole Opry broadcast on WSM radio where many country stars got their start) is within walking distance.

Another of those "modern sites" is the 617-foot AT&T Building in plain view behind Riverfront Park. It is affectionately called "the Batman Building" because it resembles the caped crusader's mask when lit at night. The skyline after sundown is a favored view from the water for both tourist and locals alike. Modern, too, is the huge Titan Stadium, home of the city's NFL franchise, on the opposite bank of the river, overlooking the Nashville skyline.

An effort is underway in Nashville to make the city even more boater-friendly. Music is still the star in Music City, but the Cumberland presence is making city planners take second and third looks at how to attract more boaters with docks, slips and expanded green space. But the river continues to be a prime "highway" for the movement of grains, fertilizer, logs and steel coils.

By The Way...
The Nashville newcomer with a boat will notice "pushboats" (tugs) and barges up and down the river every day. As a result of the commercial traffic, the recreational boater needs to know how to handle an approaching tug and barge.

"I always call them on Channel 13," says Bill Cook. "I'll say something like "Towboat at Mile Marker (whatever the number is), this is the trawler approaching. What side do you want me to pass?" The towboat will respond because they appreciate you are paying attention and tell you to "pass on the one whistle" (your right) or "the two whistle (your left)". Sometimes they'll also add "pass on my right side" or something like that so there is absolutely no confusion."

Bruce Greig of the Tennessee Bassmasters has this advice for a 'pushboat' encounter: "As with most large boats, barges do put out a pretty good disturbance," he offers, "So dropping your speed and paying attention to the water ahead of you can most times get you through most barge wakes. I think the best way to handle those waves is to tack back and forth as opposed to taking them on broadside. A zigzag works a lot better than the tilting back and forth you get by taking them on sideways. Barges can be a challenge but the real test comes on the Sundays the Titans play football. The pleasure boats carrying fans to the game will put out all kinds of big wakes and those are much harder to navigate compared to the barge traffic."

By The Numbers
One more nugget about Cumberland River navigation: the river flows southwest and Mile Markers are numbered from its confluence with the Ohio River. So, the lower the Mile Marker number, the closer one is to the mouth of the Cumberland where it enters the Ohio at Smithland, Kentucky (near Paducah). The Cumberland is also part of "the Great Loop" taken by boaters from Florida north to New York to the Great Lakes and south through the Cumberland back to Florida.

Going downstream from Nashville, a boater will pass the Opryland Hotel at Mile Marker 197.5 with the 300-foot paddle wheeler General Jackson docked along the river. The boat takes visitors out for lunch and dinner cruises on a daily basis. Continuing toward Ashland City (Mile Marker 158) and Cheatham Dam (Mile Marker 148.7), you'll pass the home of singer Kenny Chesney on 20-acres of waterfront (a bit of trivia, Chesney bought this home from another country star, Alan Jackson who owns a 1964 63-ft Burger yacht that he used to take from his home to concerts in Nashville).

"A trailer boater can easily make a run from Nashville all the way to Ashland City (there's a waterfront restaurant called The Riverview) and back in a day" notes Cook, who has made the trip a number of times on BonnFire. "Or, they can go the other way, upstream, and get to Old Hickory Lake. As the crow flies, it's probably 20 miles between the two. As the Cumberland travels and winds and bends, it's almost 40 miles."

By The Ramps
Nashville just opened a new boat ramp for rescue craft and emergency services at a former ferry dock but in nearby Shelby Park, part of the Metro Park System, there's a one-lane launch ramp. There's no cost to use this facility and parking is available for trailers and tow vehicles. Newcomers to boat ramps on the river are going to notice how they are designed to be used at an angle pointing downriver rather than the usual perpendicular angle into the water that is common on bays and inlets and lakes. Shelby Park is no different and is designed so that a boater can bring their boat into the current for retrieving while allowing the bow to remain pointed into the current when launching. Here's a caveat from those who launch regularly on the Cumberland: Keep a firm hold of the bow line when the boat comes off the trailer. While the current is usually gentle, it still can create a lot of excitement if the bow line isn't secured.

Launching from Shelby Park at Mile Marker 193, one should pay close attention to the northern shoreline nearby where Demonbreun Cave is located. Here, in the 1770's, French fur trader Timothy Demonbreun hid from Indians for a number of months, living off the fresh water flowing out of the cave and any unfortunate animal that came into the cave. Today, the cave is on the National Register of Historic Places. Continuing downriver to Mile Marker 200.7 is the John Hartford Navigation Light operated by the U.S.Coast Guard. Named for the singer/songwriter who penned the words to Gentle on My Mind that became an instant hit by Glen Campbell, the light is just a few hundred feet from Hartford's home. After making music for a while, Hartford was able to return to his first love, piloting steamboats on the Cumberland. In fact, since he made enough money from his second love--music, Hartford focused on earning his pilot's license and was soon steering a number of boats up and down the river. He died in 2001 at age 63 and commercial pilots moving barges past his home and light still tip a hat when passing by.

Following the river through more bends one will come to the Neely's Bend boat ramp in Peeler Park at Mile Marker 206, in nearby Marshall, Tennessee. It's a new ramp and has been used often by Greig when he's in search of a Cumberland bass or two. But he doesn't limit his pursuit to just Neeley's Bend.

By The River
"One of the best things about fishing the Cumberland is the quality of the fishing. Spotted bass can be found just about anywhere you find a current break and where there's one, there are dozens. The cliche' about 'Don't leave if you're getting bite' is the rule here. There have been several in the 3-5lb category that could show up at anytime. The area within sight of downtown Nashville has spotted bass in abundance. Another even better bite, quality-wise is the smallmouth population that thrives in this river. I have caught some monsters from these waters throwing double-willow leaf spinnerbaits. On more than a few occasions the fight has resulted in busted lines, busted rods, and several times busted the blades off my spinnerbaits."

"Getting on the water away from the city, the Cumberland has a rural scene on either side," says Cook. "I make a point to take a look at an eagle's nest along the river to see how they are doing. There's some great nature to see out there and I just enjoy being on this river."

West Marine, Hermitage, TN
5566 Old Hickory Blvd. 615-232-8911

Grand Ole Opry
www.opry.com

Nashville Tourism
www.visitmusiccity.com

Team Nashville Bassmasters
www.tnbassmasters.com