 |
The byline on Chuck Husick’s long-running column, Technotalk, notes that the author is a sailor, pilot, engineer and former president of Chris Craft Boats. But, this simple “bio” just does not do him justice. Chuck has been providing BoatUS with the straight scoop on how things work and why things do what they do for years. Now, rather than squeeze him into a column we’ve decided to let him go full sail in a new feature we’ll simply call, Ask Chuck. Rather than being limited to Technotalk’s single topic format, “Ask Chuck” will encourage a two-way communication and an on-going dialogue between Chuck and BoatUS Magazine readers on a wide array of questions involving gear, the latest equipment and the best technology for use on your boat. If you are looking for a credible expert to guide you through some of the more complex and arcane aspects of boating, Ask Chuck is your answer. We invite your questions by e-mail. Address your inquiry to AskChuck@BoatUS.com. We look forward to hearing from you. Q: Is BoatU.S. tracking the issue surrounding conversion to digital
TV in 2009 and the elimination of traditional analog TV channels? Lou Ward A: It will be possible for you to continue to use your present analog
tuner TV set to view the digital TV signals that will come into use early
in 2009. You will have to obtain a digital tuner (converter box) that
will be connected between your TV set's external antenna and the antenna
input connector on the TV set. Additional
information in digital edition only: The Digital Converter
will require a modest source of 120 vac power (less than 10 watts). The
handheld control is powered from an internal battery. If you power your
on-board TV from an AC source, inverter or genset, you will be able to
power the converter from the same source. If your TV operates from 12
vdc you may wish to search for a converter that will operate directly
from 12 vdc or purchase a small, 20 watt DC/ AC inverter to provide power
for the video converter. Q: I just read the letter on "Fired Up Over Old Flares." I recently decided to light an out-of-date flare to see if it would still light in the event of an emergency. Much to my surprise I was able to light it and it worked. I've been boating for almost 30 years and I've never seen one not ignite. So why are we buying new flares every three years? Herb Dollinger A: Federal law states that the expiration date must not be more than
42 months from the date of manufacture. This law was enacted in an effort
to ensure that the flares carried on commercial and recreational vessels
would work as designed and takes into account both possible variations
in manufacture and storage conditions. My experience in test firing outdated
flares is the same as yours, they all fired properly. However although
the flares were stored in a dry location I had no way of determining
if the altitude they would reach would be within specifications or if
the luminosity of the flare would meet the spec. Best advice is to keep
old flares in case you ever need more signaling capability than you can
get with the in-date flares and consider the relatively low cost of new
flares every three years an acceptable cost of boating. Q: I am the proud original owner of a Newport 33 launched in 1985. My wife and I have been fair-weather sailors for all these years, so the Cara-Krisan has not been overly stressed. But for all these years, I have had a question in search of someone to ask. I was pleased to read in BoatU.S. Magazine that you welcome questions. The Cara-Krisan is powered by a Universal M25 three-cylinder diesel with about 27-hp. It has been exceptionally reliable - whenever it has fuel. But it seems to run hot, about 80¡ C, sometimes 85¡. It moves the boat at 6.5 knots but it is turning only about 1,500 rpms. Seems to me that it should do more than that at top speed and it should run cooler. The water flow seems to be adequate. Am I wrong on my assumption? Minch Lewis A: The
data sheet I have viewed for your engine states that it can deliver
21-hp at 3,200 rpm and should operate in the 2,100-2,600 rpm range when
cruising. I do not believe your engine is running hot. Indirectly cooled
diesel engines are designed to operate at coolant temperatures that are
high enough to maintain the lubricating oil at a temperature above 100¡ C
in order to prevent an accumulation of water in the oil which might,
in the presence of sulfur in piston blow-by gases, create hydrochloric
acid in the crankcase. If your engine is moving the boat at hull speed,
6.5 knots at only 1,500 rpm, there is a possibility that the propeller
is too large and is therefore placing an excessive load on the engine.
In addition, too large a prop will prevent the engine from reaching maximum
design rpm (3,200 in your engine) and therefore the engine will never
be able to deliver its full rated power at a time when you might need
it. Q: I have a 2002 Cobia 23.4 center console. The boat had been in the New England area for several years, until I moved to the west coast of Florida. Up north the boat was on a mooring; down here it's tied to a dock. Upon pulling the boat out for a cleaning, I observed that the trim tab piano hinges were rusting badly and that I had electrolysis on the tabs. The trim tabs are Lenco (electric). I have several zincs on the O/B (Yamaha) that still look like new. I have since put a zinc on each trim tab. Now the tabs feel porous, with some marine growth. Should the tabs be painted? Should I run a ground wire off the tabs, to get the electrical charge from the tabs (and ground where?)? Or should I buy new hydraulic tabs? Wayne Neal A: Based on your description of the rust on the Lenco trim tabs, I believe what you have encountered is most likely deterioration of the welded areas at the hinge. When stainless steel is welded, it is common for the chromium content of the alloy in the weld area to be altered, making the weld subject to corrosion. Placing zinc anodes on the tabs will not eliminate this problem. I believe you will have to replace the tabs. You may choose to install hydraulic-powered tabs or an alternate brand of electrically operated tabs made by Lectrotab (Lectrotab.com). These tabs are constructed of stainless steel with no welded parts and are therefore should be immune to the corrosion problem you have encountered. Q: I have an old FishFinder unit that has Loran and it did not seem
to function properly for me all of last boating season and at the end
of the 2006 season as well. I could usually lock on to two signals but
not the third and, as a result, could never get a latitude/longitude
reading. Kevin Doell A: Your Loran C receiver will continue to be a valuable navigation device.
The Loran system has been undergoing a massive improvement with installation
of new transmitters, precise atomic-based timing apparatus and in many
cases new transmitter towers and back-up power supplies. You can obtain
current information about the operational status of the Loran C system
on the web at www.navcen.uscg.gov/loran/LORAN_C_status.htm. The site
will provide status information for both the Atlantic and Pacific areas. Q: I have a 2005 Crownline 23, the engine is a MPI 350 Horizon with
a Bravo 3. When I bought the boat, they told me there are two water inlets,
one on the drive and one on the transom. Now the one on the transom has
a seacock for obvious reasons. My last boat did not have this second
pickup, so I am not used to opening it at the start of the boating day
and closing it the end of the day. A:The external scoop connected to the transom of your 2005 Crownline
23 provides an additional flow of seawater to the engine-mounted raw-water
pump. This type of additional water supply system is typically used in
areas where seawater temperatures can exceed 80 degrees F. I believe
you will find that the hose connected to the seacock is attached to a
device that feeds seawater from the outdrive's water pump and from the
external scoop to the engine-mounted pump. It is likely that you will
be able to operate in the cool waters of Massachusetts without the additional
cooling water supply, however, there will be no detriment to operating
the boat with the external supply in use. For more of Chuck Husick's insights, go to My.BoatUS.com/askexperts/askchuck |
