PracticalBoater

Do-It-Yourself

 

Installing A VHF Radio

Published: October/November 2011

It's one of the projects boaters most often want to accomplish. Here's how to plan it, assemble the tools and materials, and do it

Few items on your boat are as important as your VHF radio, which is your most reliable link to the outside world. But if it's not properly installed, failure is likely. Luckily, installing a new VHF is a relatively easy project that just about any boater can do on his or her own. Just follow these steps, and you'll be on the airwaves in no time.

Mounting a VHF radio diagram
Click picture for larger view.

Step 1: Securing The Binnacle Mount

Most do-it-yourselfers will binnacle-mount their radio, and that's what we'll deal with here. Flush mounts have more shape and space constraint; plus you have to cut a large hole in the helm, a job perhaps best left to the professionals. Fortunately, VHFs that come with binnacle mounts also come with a mounting template. Choose a location for your radio where you can easily operate it while running the boat, and which is shielded from the weather and direct sunlight, if possible. Secure the mounting template in place with masking tape. Check underneath the helm before drilling through it, to make sure the area is clear of wires, panels, gauges, and other items! Also check space above the template to be sure there's adequate clearance for the radio and that its location won't interfere with other gear, such as throttle movement.

Find the drill bit size that matches the radio's included mounting hardware, and drill the mounting holes in the helm as indicated by the template. After drilling the holes, remove the template and all fiberglass dust. Run a bead of silicon sealant around the holes, set the binnacle mount in place, and insert the mounting hardware. If the included hardware consists of screws, replace them with through-bolts and aircraft-grade Nylock locking nuts, which will keep the mount more secure.

Step 2: Running The Wires And Cables

Before you can get power to your new radio, you'll need to drill one more hole in the helm, this one for the wires. To determine the best location, put the radio in the binnacle mount and see where the wiring harness falls. Locate a spot for the hole that won't force any hard or abrupt bends in the wires, and be sure to use a bit that makes a hole of sufficient size for both the wiring harness and the antenna cable. After drilling the hole, feed the radio's wires down into it. You'll also need to bring the antenna cable up through the hole, but first, remove the cable's connector by cutting it off. Discard the old connector – reusing it risks a poor connection – and after feeding the cable up through the helm, attach a new Centerpin PL-259 connector to the end according to the included instructions.

The rest of the wiring work will have to be done from under the helm; depending on the situation, you may or may not need to extend the power leads for the radio to reach your power source. If you do need to extend them, use only the wire type and size(s) that conform to ABYC standards (see our Tech sidebar). Crimp butt connectors to the wire connections, protect them with the adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing, and close off any gaps with liquid electric tape. At the terminal ends, crimp on terminal connectors, again protecting the connections with adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing and liquid electric tape. Don't attach the terminal connectors to the power source just yet; we'll do this as we complete the final stage of this project.

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Tech Tips

  • Your VHF should recognize the NMEA data stream automatically, but some GPS units need you to activate an NMEA-out setting in the main menu; see your owner's manual for info on how to do so, if necessary.
  • Always run your drill at full speed when it makes contact with fiberglass; a slowly turning bit is more likely to grab the gelcoat, causing it to splinter and chip.
  • When starting to drill a hole, it also helps to make a small starter indent with a sharp pointed tool or very small drill bit to keep the main bit from "walking" as you begin.

 

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