April 16, 2007
Postscript
August 24, 2006
Tips
August 10, 2006
Differences
July 27, 2006
Easy to Please
July 13, 2006
Silence is Golden
June 29
Lots of Locks
June 15, 2006
Cross-Vesselers
June 1, 2006
Remembering
May 19, 2006
The Perfect Boat
May 4, 2006
In the Eye of the Beholder
April 20, 2006
Making Mistakes
April 6, 2006
Doris Does George Town
March 23, 2006
Getting Organized
March 9, 2006
Bridge Over troubled Waters
February 23, 2006
Birthdays on Board
February 9, 2006
Wild Horses & Wooden Ships
January 26, 2006
Packaging Paradise
January 12, 2006
Bored Games
Click
here for 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 & 2001 Logs
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A NOTE TO OUR
READERS: We're
off the boat for the moment, but we'll continue posting stories, like the
one
below, about our previous cruising experiences and
what we're doing now. We'll be back on board and actively cruising in the fall.
Please keep visiting our log in the meantime.
-- D&E Pirates and Paranoia
September
2,
2004

A deserted isle: quiet retreat or pirate lair?
It was after
midnight and we were anchored all alone off Turneffe Island in Belize.
A cold front was passing through and it was howling
outside; torrents of rain pounded the deck. In a lull between gusts we
heard a faint cry. We weren’t alone after all.
David struggled into his shorts, turned on the spreader lights, and
stumbled up on deck. In the blackness off our stern he could just make
out the form of an open wooden boat. It bucked into the cone of light
spreading out from our mast. Eileen emerged from below. In faces as dark
as the night, two pairs of wide, terrified eyes stared up at us.
“Hey, mon! We’re
lost. Let us tie up alongside!”
The skinny guy at
the bow threw Eileen a line. She caught it and glanced at David. He
looked down at the two drenched figures in the fishing boat
and shrugged. Eileen cleated off the line. “Welcome aboard,” she
said.
Thoroughly soaked,
we all squeezed under the canvas cockpit enclosure. Eileen ducked below
leaving David warily eyeing our guests. Foremost
in his thoughts was an incident involving Canadian friends that had occurred
only a month before. Jim den Hartog and Helen den Dekker’s sailboat "Gaia" had
been boarded at night in Guatemala’s Rio Dulce and Jim had come
close to losing the use of his right hand to a brutal knife wound. But
our visitors didn’t look very dangerous. They mostly looked cold
and miserable.
Eileen handed up
towels. “Anyone for some hot tea?” she
asked.
Our visitors told us they had left late to return to their village and
had got caught in the storm. Along a featureless shoreline on a night
as dark as the inside of a tomb they had turned to the only beacon in
sight -- our anchor light. We stayed up with our new friends until grey
smudges on the horizon marked the beginning of another day. By the time
we waved goodbye to them, we had consumed a few gallons of tea and learned
every significant detail of their lives, and they of ours.
Other cruisers to whom we've told this story have questioned the wisdom
of our actions that night. In a deserted location, inviting strangers
on board could be inviting trouble. A few well publicized incidents of
violent crime have created something of a siege mentality within the
cruising community. The mainstream media have picked up on some of the
more sensational cases. When a Quebec couple were terrorized and their
boat ransacked in the Colombian Rosario Islands a few years ago, we learned
of the incident from ham radio operators in Canada, who had read about
it in the national newspapers. We had visited the Rosarios only months
earlier, but were blithely unaware of the attack.
Whenever we return
home to visit we are invariably asked, "Have
you ever been attacked by pirates?" We probably disappoint our landlubber
friends when we reply in the negative. Although we personally know some
cruisers who have been assaulted, we don't think we've been particularly
lucky in avoiding a similar fate during the ten years we've been cruising.
Rather, we believe the victims of armed boardings have been particularly
UNLUCKY and -- in some cases -- poorly informed and ill-prepared.
World-wide, piracy
appears to be on the rise. The brigands of today don't wear eye patches
and wield cutlasses, and their victims aren't
usually on sailboats. Modern pirates are more likely to carry automatic
weapons and to use high speed power boats to attack tankers and container
ships. Pirates pose a serious enough threat to commercial shipping that
the International Maritime Bureau has been compiling statistics on attacks
at its piracy reporting centre in Kuala Lumpur since 1991. Its latest
annual report, "Piracy and Armed Robbery against Ships", isn't
exactly a cheerful read.
There were 445 reported incidents last year, a 20% increase from 2002.
Of the total number of ships attacked, 311 were boarded and 19 hijacked.
The number of hostages taken nearly doubled to 359; 21 seafarers were
known to have been killed (over twice the number of the previous year)
and 71 crew and passengers were listed as missing. Yikes! It's not safe
out there!
Before we all abandon our boats and head for the hills, we should look
a little deeper into what's behind these statistics. First, the attacks
have been highly localized. Malaysia and Indonesia accounted for one-third
of last year's piracy incidents. Other world hot spots were Bangladesh
(58 attacks), Nigeria (39), and the Red Sea/Gulf of Aden (21). Second,
the tendency is towards co-ordinated, military style operations targeting
large vessels. These boys are in the big league; they're less likely
to be interested in your typical mom-and-pop cruiser on a 40 foot sailboat.
Having said that, we'd still feel a bit nervous cruising the Strait of
Malacca or the coast of Eritrea (cruisers transiting these high traffic
areas typically travel in convoys and don't linger along the way).
Armed boardings involving yachts generally occur in areas that are impoverished,
relatively remote, and perhaps politically unstable. The perpetrators
are usually fewer in number, less sophisticated, and not as well armed
as their big boat brethren. Again, location is everything. To use a terrestrial
analogy, muggings, rapes, and shootings happen all the time in most large
North American cities; the key is not being in the wrong place at the
wrong time.
Going back to our Belizean example, we took a calculated risk. We had
never heard of transient boaters being attacked in Belize. If we had
been anchored off Isla Coche at the northeastern corner of Venezuela,
we probably would not have been so welcoming. Since January 2003, at
least seven yachts have been boarded by armed intruders along that stretch
of coastline.
Caribbean cruisers
have a valuable resource for keeping abreast of security concerns:
the Caribbean Safety and Security radio net, which meets daily
at 0815 Atlantic time (1215 UTC) on SSB frequency 8104 Khz. We remember
when the net was first established in 1995, mainly in response to a rash
of dinghy thefts in Venezuela. Back then it reported on some factual
incidents, a few rumours, and a lot of hysteria. Our friends Melodye
and John Pompa on "Second Millennium" have been net controllers
for the past five years and have developed the net into an objective
and accurate listing of security incidents. More than eight years of
reports have been filed online at www.caribcruisers.com and are updated
monthly.
Perusing the Caribbean Safety and Security files confirms that acts
of piracy are rare among private yachts. Most reported security incidents
involve property theft or vandalism, not personal injury. A handful of
boats have been violently attacked in Guatemala's Rio Dulce and in the
atolls off northeastern Honduras, but none within the last couple of
years. The current hot spots are northeastern Venezuela and Colombia.
It's fairly easy to avoid these high risk areas. In 1995, we gunkholed
along the Venezuelan coast, enjoying the Paria Peninsula's pristine bays;
six years and a number of pirate attacks later, we transited the same
coastline fifty miles offshore.

To deter night boarders, be prepared to make lots of light and noise, and keep in radio contact with nearby boats
Yachts that opt to visit known trouble zones often do so in the company
of others, adhering to the maxim that there's strength in numbers (an
opposing view holds that a single boat makes less of a target than several
boats). Routine precautions include: maintaining radio silence on the
official calling channels, but agreeing to monitor a chosen working channel;
locking companionways and large hatches from the inside at night; establishing
twenty-four hour surveillance schedules; hiding important documentation
and all but a token amount of cash; and keeping air horns, flares, and
spotlights close at hand.
We stocked up on
pepper spray after we learned from Jim and Helen on "Gaia" that
they had used it successfully to repel their knife-wielding assailants.
We do not carry firearms, although some cruisers do. It's instructive
that many victims of recent pirate attacks do not regret being unarmed.
After they were boarded in Colombia, Jim and Katie Coolbaugh on the sailboat "Asylum" reported
in the Seven Seas Cruising Association "Bulletin" (November
2002) that, "we do not carry weapons and are convinced that had
we come out shooting, we could be dead now. We did not know at the time
that there were five armed men out there ... Had one, or even two of
us, come out with a gun, we would have been completely outgunned by all
of them."
When people new to the cruising scene ask us about pirates, we advise
them to be prudent, not paranoid. The new places they'll visit are probably
no less secure than the familiar ones they left behind. Whether at home
or abroad, one's personal security is largely determined by common-sense
precautions and practices. For our part, we hope we'll still feel comfortable
putting the kettle on when we hear a knock on the hull some dark and
stormy night.
Cheers,
David & Eileen
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