September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye


September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation


September 01, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing


August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez


August 01, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind


July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap


July 01, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec


June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico


June 01, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua


May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising


May 01, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica


April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There


April 01, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama


March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money


March 01, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal


February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal


February 01, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific


January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week


January 01, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef


December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2


December 01, 2011
AWAY to the ANDAMANs


November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise


November 01, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question


October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers


October 03, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World


September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come


September 01, 2011
Sailing for Humanity


August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work


August 01, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish


July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books


July 01, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas


June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala


June 01, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise


May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now


May 01, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala


April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas


April 01, 2011
At Last in the San Blas


March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon


March 01, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!


February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2


February 01, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1


January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude


December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane


December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba


December 01, 2010
Stuck in Curacao


November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing


November 01, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks


October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe


October 04, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal


September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing


September 01, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea


August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao


August 01, 2010
Bonaire Diving


July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire


July 01, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles


June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent


June 01, 2010
Right Place, Right Time


May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle


May 01, 2010
To the Grenadines


April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon


April 01, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II


March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1


March 01, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing


February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations


February 01, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands


January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa


January 01, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............


December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing


December 01, 2009
Moving On To Morocco


November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med


November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone


October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol


October 01, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise


September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles


September 01, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well


August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca


August 01, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca


July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast


July 01, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia


June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa


June 01, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails


May 15, 2009
Into Africa


May 01, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia


April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy


April 01, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles


March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling


March 01, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports


February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta


February 01, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2


January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1


January 02, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time


December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear


December 01, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend


November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise


November 01, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz


October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman


October 01, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins


September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta


September 01, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story


August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times


August 01, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians


July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca


July 01, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe


June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece


June 01, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey


May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey


April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living


April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip


April 01, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget


March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi


March 01, 2008
Home Sweet Home


February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising


February 01, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World


January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free


January 01, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni


January 01, 2008
About Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Voyage Itinerary


December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

By Tom Morkin

The next islands on the itinerary were the uninhabited John Lawrence and Henry Lawrence Islands.

Wind and waves sculpt the low cliffs, which characterize the southern end of both these islands. Elsewhere, mangroves dominate the shores. The resplendent reefs provided coral trout and sweet lips and our first lobster in 4 years.

Long Island is just 1 mile east of Middle Andaman Island. Once a booming lumber town, it has fallen on hard times since the virtual ban on logging was instituted 10 years ago.

Although the village is blessed with 2 lovely sandy beaches, mangrove shores are the predominant feature of this part of the Andamans. It looks like prime crocodile real estate which explained why over the 3 days anchored off the village we never saw the locals swimming, a fact that went a long way toward persuading us to wet our toes only in the shower, on board.

At Long Island, we were befriended by the Chief of Police/Radio operator, named Dube, who led us on a 12 km. hike through tropical rainforest to Lalaji beach. During the hike, Dube told us about the security concerns the Islands faced with their northern neighbor, Myanmar (formerly Burma). We learned how the Burmese can easily slip onto the islands to illegally fish and even log the remote areas. These illegals are often armed and will often take extreme measures to avoid capture and deportation. Ironically, on the return portion of our hike, Dube spotted 4 such Burmese squatters who had taken up residence not far from the trail. So now what does he do? There are 4 of them and 3 of us, and 2 of us are just a pair of Canadian tourists who tend to sympathize with underdogs anyway.

Well, not much. He confiscated one of the lobster poles and let them off, promising to return with uniformed reinforcements. But at the end of the day, it sure looked like the score was Burmese squatters-1, India-0.

After 3 days, no diving and no fresh fish, it was island time again. This time, North Button Island was the destination. The effortless 9 mile beam reach in 15 knots was all too short, but long enough to land wahoo # 3. Oh god, could we get tuna for a change?

North Button was clearly an “Oh Wow!” kind of place, definitely the prettiest island yet. Glorious reef rimmed the entire shore and snow white, super fine sand punctuated the cream and salmon shaded sandstone cliffs, which share the island with dark basalt cliffs and rugged rock formations. To complete the picture, many hues of green of the rainforest were thickly scattered throughout, often on impossibly steep cliff faces.

Snorkeling on North Button’s reef revealed the regular cast of submarine characters. Moray eels, groupers, coral trout, lobsters, rays, sweet lips, turtles occupied their usual haunts on or near the bottom and in or close to their wet lairs. Meanwhile, their less reclusive neighbors, the parrotfish, surgeon fish, trevally jacks, Moorish idols and angel fish nonchalantly ambled by as we awestruck but aquatically challenged humanoids fumbled along in our blissful manner.

It was here during a sundowner gathering that we learned of the death of 2 hapless Indian fishermen a week earlier, who were speared to death on Sentinel Island, 30 miles west of our anchorage. The news was reported by the international press, mainly because the indigenous Jarawa people who occupy 80 % of the west coast of the Andaman Islands, also repelled with spears and bows and arrows, the first detachment of police who were dispatched to the island to recover the bodies. Only when the military arrived did the Jarawa retreat into the forest and the bodies could be recovered.

To prevent such events, large parts of the western side of the Andmans and 100% of the Nicobar Islands are off limits to foreigners and Indians alike.

To the credit of the Indian government, these tribal people were not and are not pressured into assimilating into the modern world. It is one of very few places on earth where the indigenous people are protected by the government from the encroachment of modern society.

The area south and west of PB was next on the agenda. Like most of the visiting yachties, we made 2 critical mistakes for our trip south. First, we mistakenly assumed that when we submitted our mandatory itinerary with the Harbor Master and he approved it, we thought we were good to go. Wrong-o! What we didn’t know and what he didn’t tell us was that permits from both the Forestry Dept. and Parks Dept. were required for the choicest of the island anchorages in this part of the Andamans. Furthermore, wading through 2 bureaucracies to procure the permits takes up to 2 full days and about $100 as our friends later found out. To make matters worse, they were shocked to learn that after all the hassle of getting permits, they realized the permits were stamped “NO SNORKELING” and there was no landing ashore! Good grief, why did they think we wanted to visit these places? They just don’t get it!

In our case, ignorance was bliss as it was only after visiting a couple of these anchorages did we learn we were ‘outlaw cruisers’. Our first hint that something was amiss came while snorkeling on the reef in Middle Cinque anchorage, when we were twice buzzed by a Navy fixed wing airplane. This didn’t come as a complete surprise since friends on SHAZAM reported during their stay on Cinque, on 2 occasions a helicopter hovered so close to their boat they had spray coming into their cockpit.

After 3 hours anchored here in surely the most beautiful islands in all of India, why were there no people on shore or any place around us? So, up came the hook and we headed west to the west side of Rutland Island. 30 minutes out of Cinque, beam reaching at 6.5 knots in 20 knots with only the jib unfurled, we were intercepted by an Indian warship. We were promptly informed that a rib would be deployed and a boarding dispatched to view our non-existent permits.

What followed was a comedy of errors that could have come out of an episode of ‘Keystone Cops’. After taking over 45 minutes to launch the navy inflatable their outboard repeatedly died en route to Feel Free. Fortunately for us the mother ship got preoccupied with rescuing the dinghy crew and sent us on our way. After our close call, we realized that without proper permits, we’d best limit our stops to those that were clearly legal and pass by those whose status was questionable. As we sailed past the idyllic Twin Islands, Red Skin Island, Malaya and countless others which show no sign of human activity, we realized how successful the office bound bureaucrats had been in ensuring no one enjoyed these remote and pristine island paradises.

Harboring more than a modicum of bitterness, we thought ‘the hell with it’ and headed back to PB to begin what was to be an agonizing 3 day process to check out and head back to Thailand.

So, after a month in the Andamans, could we recommend it as a cruising ground? Yes, but a qualified yes. Certainly the 350 miles from Thailand are easy miles; the line fishing and spear fishing were the best we’d encountered since PNG; the anchorages are many and secure; the reefs are untouched and vital; the water visibility is good, but not great; the locals are warm and welcoming and many speak English well, and the cost of living is low.

As for the negative side, I’m sure you can guess. They both begin with ‘B’: bureaucracy and ‘big brotherism’. Unfortunately, neither problem is going to change any time soon. Maybe with a billion in India, a gigantic bureaucracy helps keep some of them employed. The officials themselves are incredibly polite and often apologetic about the inefficiency of the system. As for the big brotherism, if you have Myanmar as your closest neighbor, it’s understandable that security will be an issue for the military. However, that only goes so far to explain why the Indians seem bent on aggravating those they wish to welcome.

During our time away from PB we experienced almost daily surveillance by fixed wing aircraft or helicopters, we had 3 boardings by Coast Guard not to mention one botched attempted boarding by the Navy.

There is a certain comedic Kafka-esque aspect to all the rules and regulations. For the most part, most cruisers recognize this and learn to sit back and appreciate the sheer absurdity of it all, and don’t let it interfere with the tremendous cruising experience most have in the Andamans.