September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye

September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation

September 1, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing

August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez

August 1, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind

July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap

July 1, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec

June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico

June 1, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua

May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising

May 1, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica

April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There

April 1, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama

March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money

March 1, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal

February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal

February 1, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific

January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week

January 1, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef

December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

December 1, 2011

November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise

November 1, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question

October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers

October 3, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World

September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come

September 1, 2011
Sailing for Humanity

August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work

August 1, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish

July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books

July 1, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas

June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala

June 1, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise

May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now

May 1, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala

April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

April 1, 2011
At Last in the San Blas

March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2

February 1, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1

January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude

December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane

December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba

December 1, 2010
Stuck in Curacao

November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing

November 1, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks

October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe

October 4, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal

September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing

September 1, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea

August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao

August 1, 2010
Bonaire Diving

July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire

July 1, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles

June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent

June 1, 2010
Right Place, Right Time

May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle

May 1, 2010
To the Grenadines

April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon

April 1, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II

March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1

March 1, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing

February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations

February 1, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands

January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing

December 1, 2009
Moving On To Morocco

November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med

November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone

October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol

October 1, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise

September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well

August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca

August 1, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca

July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast

July 1, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia

June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa

June 1, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails

May 15, 2009
Into Africa

May 1, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia

April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy

April 1, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles

March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling

March 1, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports

February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta

February 1, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2

January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1

January 2, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time

December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear

December 1, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend

November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise

November 1, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz

October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman

October 1, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins

September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta

September 1, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

August 1, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians

July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca

July 1, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe

June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece

June 1, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey

May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey

April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

April 1, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget

March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi

March 1, 2008
Home Sweet Home

February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising

February 1, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World

January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free

January 1, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni

January 1, 2008
About Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Voyage Itinerary

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well


September 1, 2009
Espalmador Island, Spain
38 46N, 1 25 E

By Liz Tosoni

We’re lying on a sturdy mooring buoy provided free of charge thanks to the Spanish government here in Espalmador Island. It’s an eye popping place of sweeping sandy beaches, sand dunes, and rugged windswept shores, and surely must be the nudist capital of the world as there are bare boobs and bums on boats and beaches everywhere you look. Males and females alike, young and old, in their full glory aiming for that full-body tan.

Espalmador Island is attached to Formentera Island, the smallest and westernmost of the Balearic Islands of Spain.

From the beach, a short walk inland leads to a salt lake with thermal mud bath. Tom couldn’t resist getting dirty, nor could these young guys and gals.

We’re spending some time in this area doing the things we love to do. For me, one of them is cooking.  When we first began cruising, I was into my career, didn’t enjoy cooking at all, nor was I good at it. Okay, let’s be honest. I was a lousy cook. Making the transition from a kitchen with all the mod cons to a boat galley definitely took adjustment. I tended to rely on basic, traditional fare that hit the spot and fed the crew but wasn’t very inspiring. “That’s good Liz,” they’d say kindly. Looking back on those days, in Hoki Mai’s archives, I came across an article I wrote that was published in Pacific Yachting (a magazine out of Vancouver, Canada). The first paragraph read:
“Cruising aboard Hoki Mai is more delightful when crewmembers who join Tom and me en route contribute to our inventory of favorite dishes. We have been living aboard, exploring British Colombia, California, Mexico, and the South Pacific for over a year now, and pretty well everyone who has spent time with us has left us with a meal idea that we continue to use. Being refrigerator-less means that you have to be inventive. Despite this, the variety of meals that’s been cranked out of our galley by creative cooks is remarkable. Here are some of them.”

After examining the recipes I was pleasantly surprised to realize that they (or variations thereof) are still very much alive in Feel Free’s galley! I’d like to share some of them with you, along with a few other favorites, as they contain ingredients that store well and are easy to prepare.

Dianne’s Delicious Deli Delight
Use leftover noodles from last night’s spaghetti (leave them sitting in water overnight) for your cold luncheon salad. Drain them.
Add to the noodles ½ cup chopped celery, ½ cup mushrooms, ½ cup cubed cheese and/or cubed salami, and/or a can of cooked beans, ½ cup of cut up tomatoes, a few sliced olives. Then add spices and herbs such as sweet basil, thyme, tarragon, parsley, chives.
Adapt ingredients to your own taste and what’s in the galley. Top salad with your favorite dressing.
Pasta is amazingly versatile. You can add just about anything to it to come up with a delicious meal. This Italian variety is with pesto Genovese, including pine nuts, fresh basil, crushed garlic, and grated parmesan cheese.
Curried Lentils A La Hilary
1 cup lentils
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
2 tablespoons oil
1 can tomatoes
1 green pepper
1-4 tablespoons curry (according to taste)
1 teaspoon cumin
Cook lentils, drain, and set aside. In large frying pan, heat oil, add onions and garlic and sauté for a few minutes. Add curry and tomatoes. Add all other ingredients one by one (including lentils) and let simmer until done (about 20 minutes), stirring constantly. Serve with rice. Sliced fruit such as bananas, pears, apples, grapes and oranges (served on a platter) are an attractive and tasty complement to the meal. The lentil-rice combination provides a complete protein meal.   Serves four.

Pasta is amazingly versatile. You can add just about anything to it to come up with a delicious meal. This Italian variety is with pesto Genovese, including pine nuts, fresh basil, crushed garlic, and grated parmesan cheese.

Gustav’s Nockerln (Dumplings)
4 heaping tablespoons flour
2 eggs
Mix flour and eggs in a bowl and add some milk so it doesn’t stick to the bowl. Add spices: salt, pepper and garlic to taste. Take spoonfuls and drop them into boiling broth or soup until they rise to the top; then your dumpling soup is ready. If dropped in water, drain after they have risen to the top and serve with favorite sauce (in which case, double the quantities of ingredients). Serves four.
It’s always fun to try new foods in foreign ports. We gave these smiling Tunisian flathead fish a miss.
octopus, Mmmmm
Instead, we chose some plump octopus that were pretty tasty, barbequed by chef Tom and squirted with lemon juice. Niece Kelly sure liked them.

Dipping sauce:
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons grated ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon sugar, or to taste
Coat the fish evenly on both sides with the mixture of peanut oil and soya sauce. Let the fish sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Combine ingredients of dipping sauce and set aside. Cut the vegetables, coat them evenly with the oil and grill them for 5 to 7 minutes on each side or until browned and tender.
Grill fish fillets for 3 to 4 minutes on one side. Brush with the marinade left in the marinade pan, turn and grill for 3 to 4 minutes on the second side (until fish is opaque throughout). Serve the fish with rice and the grilled vegetables, and individual bowls of dipping sauce.
We love this tuna (or ono) recipe as it combines the full flavor of the fish with the assertive taste of the ginger-garlic dipping sauce.
Fruit and Vegetables Dianne
This recipe can be adapted to serve from one to 100. Here, it’s for four. Serve with rice.
3 stalks celery, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
2-3 tablespoons oil
1 cup dried apples
1-4 tablespoons curry, according to taste
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup chicken stock
1-3 teaspoons ground ginger
Lemon juice to taste
1 cup dried apricots
1 handful raisins
½- 1 cup sour cream or yogurt
2 bananas, sliced
Sauté celery and onion in oil, then lift out and set aside. Sauté apple, add curry powder and flour and stir for 3 minutes. Mix in stock and ginger and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring all the while.
Return celery and onion to pan. Add lemon juice, apricots, raisins, and simmer at least 15 minutes. Before serving, stir in some of the sour cream or yogurt. Pass the rest at the table, with the bananas.
Pizza is always a hit aboard Feel Free.

It’s always fun to try new foods in foreign ports. We gave these smiling Tunisian flathead fish a miss.

Instead, we chose some plump octopus that were pretty tasty, barbequed by chef Tom and squirted with lemon juice. Niece Kelly sure liked them.

Sackett Pancakes
2 cups whole-wheat flour
2/3 cup powdered milk
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 cups water
2 ½ teaspoons margarine
Mix ingredients well. Melt margarine in frying pan. Pour mixture onto pan in desired sizes. Fry until small bubbles are seen on tops, then flip and fry other sides. Serves four.

Sopaipillas from Russ of Arikaree
Combine: 1 ¾ cup flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt
Cut in 2 tablespoons shortening and add enough water to form a stiff dough, about 2/3 cup. Turn out on a floured board and knead until smooth. Cover with towel and let stand 10 minutes. Roll dough very thinly and into a rectangle about 15 inches by 12 inches. Cut into 3-inch squares or triangles. Heat oil to approximately 385-400 degrees F. Drop a few squares at a time onto oil and cook, turning frequently, to evenly brown and puff. Drain on paper towel. Serve hot with honey, butter, or jam.
Sopaipillas are easy to make and a great hot snack. The key is to roll the dough really thin so that they puff. These ones didn’t puff as much as they should.


Daydream Susan’s Indonesian Rice
For a vegetarian meal, the meat can be easily omitted from the recipe. (Today for lunch, I used lentils.)
1 onion, chopped                                                 
2 tablespoons oil
3 cloves garlic                                                    
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon ginger                                              
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon cardamom                                       
1 cup cubed, cooked meat
½ teaspoon turmeric                                          
3 tablespoons chopped green pepper
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper                       
3 tablespoons chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt                                                      
¼ cup coconut milk or sour cream
¼ teaspoon pepper                                              
1 cup rice (Susan used black rice)
Crush together onion, garlic, ginger, cardamom, turmeric, red pepper, salt, and pepper. Sauté in oil for 2 to 3 minutes. Add lemon juice, soya sauce and meat and cook for a few minutes longer. Add green pepper, celery, coconut milk, and rice. Stir fry until hot. Serves four.

Grilled Tuna or Ono (Mahi mahi)
with Ginger-Garlic Dipping Sauce

Tuna or ono fillets cut ¾ inch thick
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon soya sauce
1 large bok choy (or similar vegetable)
Several scallop squash (or similar vegetable)
1 tablespoon peanut oil, plus more for coatng Salt to taste

Cilantro sprigs for garnishing

We love this tuna (or ono) recipe as it combines the full flavor of the fish with the assertive taste of the ginger-garlic dipping sauce.


Craig’s Chicken Adobo
1 tablespoon sugar
3 cloves crushed garlic
2 bay leaves
1 cup soya sauce
1 cup vinegar
2 cups water
Cook ribs or chicken until meat falls off the bone. Mix above ingredients and pour over meat and rice. Put excess aside for later use as this amount is good for two or more meals.
Here’s Craig and Gigette in Honolulu. Craig’s Adobo is delish and works well with ribs too.

Pizza is always a hit aboard Feel Free.

Adriana’s Fish Batter (For Fish And Chips)
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 ¼ teaspoons salt
1 cup water
1 tablespoon oil
Coat fish pieces well with batter, and then deep fry until golden brown.

Liz’s Happy-Hour Spread
8 oz. cream cheese (or more, depending on however many people you are entertaining)
To the cream cheese, mix in chopped olives, and/or garlic, and/or sun dried tomatoes and/or anchovies, and/or green pepper, and or celery, and/or almonds. Serve on crackers or fresh bread.
Last but not least is a recipe for Bailey’s from Susan of Kashmira. We enjoyed it as a Christmas drink on board Kashmira in Gladstone, Australia.
Kashmira Susan’s Bailey’s
1 cup rum or brandy
1 cup very strong coffee: 5 to 6 teaspoons of instant coffee in a cup. Cool completely.
1 14 oz. can sweetened condensed milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Mix well and add:
8 oz. thickened cream, or you can substitute UHT whipping cream
Shake well and enjoy.
Here’s Susan and Steve on board Kashmira in Gladstone, Australia. Susan’s Bailey’s is wickedly good.