September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye


September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation


September 01, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing


August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez


August 01, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind


July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap


July 01, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec


June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico


June 01, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua


May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising


May 01, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica


April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There


April 01, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama


March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money


March 01, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal


February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal


February 01, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific


January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week


January 01, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef


December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2


December 01, 2011
AWAY to the ANDAMANs


November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise


November 01, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question


October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers


October 03, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World


September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come


September 01, 2011
Sailing for Humanity


August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work


August 01, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish


July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books


July 01, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas


June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala


June 01, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise


May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now


May 01, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala


April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas


April 01, 2011
At Last in the San Blas


March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon


March 01, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!


February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2


February 01, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1


January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude


December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane


December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba


December 01, 2010
Stuck in Curacao


November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing


November 01, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks


October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe


October 04, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal


September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing


September 01, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea


August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao


August 01, 2010
Bonaire Diving


July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire


July 01, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles


June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent


June 01, 2010
Right Place, Right Time


May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle


May 01, 2010
To the Grenadines


April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon


April 01, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II


March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1


March 01, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing


February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations


February 01, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands


January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa


January 01, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............


December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing


December 01, 2009
Moving On To Morocco


November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med


November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone


October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol


October 01, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise


September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles


September 01, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well


August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca


August 01, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca


July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast


July 01, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia


June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa


June 01, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails


May 15, 2009
Into Africa


May 01, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia


April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy


April 01, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles


March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling


March 01, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports


February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta


February 01, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2


January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1


January 02, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time


December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear


December 01, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend


November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise


November 01, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz


October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman


October 01, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins


September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta


September 01, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story


August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times


August 01, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians


July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca


July 01, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe


June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece


June 01, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey


May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey


April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living


April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip


April 01, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget


March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi


March 01, 2008
Home Sweet Home


February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising


February 01, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World


January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free


January 01, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni


January 01, 2008
About Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Voyage Itinerary


April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

By Tom Morkin

San Blas Islands

One reason the isles of the San Blas are the ‘holy grail’ for cruisers from around the world is because of the extensive reef system that protects the anchorages from the raw ravaging swells of the Caribbean. The anchorages are windy during the winter trade wind season but waters are flat and the holding is generally good. That is, for the anchorages in the western San Blas. The eastern San Blas has no such protective reef so the anchorages are more exposed, can be rolly and for the most part are less secure. In addition, the eastern anchorages are either on the coast or very close to it. The multitude of rivers and streams particularly during periods of heavy rainfall, make these anchorages murky.

We made our landfall in the San Blas in the east for two reasons: 1) It was close to Colombia from where we departed, meaning one over-nighter instead of two which would not have been the case had we sailed to the western San Blas. 2) The eastern San Blas islands are more remote and visited far less by cruisers and/or tourists. The villages tend to be more traditional.

It wasn’t until a cold front in the Gulf of Mexico started sending four plus meter seas down Panama way that I began to regret our decision not to sail straight to the reef protected waters of the eastern San Blas.

Although Feel Free was safely anchored behind Isla Pinos and had been for four days while Liz and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the village, hiking and swimming albeit in murky waters where I spotted a five foot cayman 200 meters from our boat, and then later, a dead one on shore, we knew we’d have to leave our sanctuary and brave those big seas for 60 miles before we’d be behind the reef.

Although I’m not a fan of three and four meter seas, we have a strong, seaworthy 51 foot boat so the thought of those kinds of seas doesn’t keep me awake at night. But this time they did because those twelve foot waves were meeting the relatively shallow waters of the San Blas resulting in unpredictable and breaking waves for much of our 60 mile trip.

Another and related contributor to my insomnia was the reported depth of 11 feet in the channel we would exit from to meet the open sea. In calm conditions this would be no sweat for our eight foot draft, but these conditions weren’t calm. I was betting that the swell wouldn’t be more than about three feet in the 11 foot channel. They certainly would be once out at sea.

After my sleepless night, dawn finally arrived and from the deck I could see the seas breaking on the reef were not as bad the previous three days. Knowing full well that waiting another day may not mean diminishment of the seas, it would mean another sleepless night.

We were one of three boats at Isla Pinos and each of the boat’s crews was anxious to get west. The trade winds were forecast to just get stronger over the next couple of weeks. Dave and Eli on High Spirits, a U.S. flagged vessel from Texas which draws five feet, said “Hell, let’s go. I’ve saved my previous track through this area on my GPS so you can follow High Spirits.” Um, that’s a comforting thought (?) “Sure, sounds good. You lead, we’ll follow.” That’s exactly what we did.

Heading out the channel we watched the depth sounder report 11, 12, 11.5, 12.5, 13, 14 feet as we approached the open sea. By the time I saw 15 feet on the sounder, I thought the worst was behind us. We were definitely in deeper water but the waves were much bigger as High Spirits and Feel Free pitched like rocking horses into a very unwelcoming Caribbean Sea. My attention switched from the depth sounder to the train of waves that assaulted us every four to five seconds. Each slamming wave almost brought our speed to zero so we throttled up to maintain forward progress. Feel Free was making good two and three knots.

I was thinking this was a bit of a drag, but in a couple of minutes we’d be in the safety of the deep water, when it happened. We dropped down into a trough and then BANG! and SHUDDER! “What was that?!” shrieked Liz. We had hit the rocky, corally bottom. My worst nightmare- going aground in the swell.

If we stayed aground here our boat would eventually break up. Without a moment’s hesitation I firewalled the engine and continued straight ahead. The arrival of the next six to eight foot wave lifted our bow and floated us free. Thank God, we were still moving, but our relief was short lived for five seconds, maybe. Then, BANG! SHUDDER! We hit again, stopped or nearly stopped before the next wave freed us from the bottom.

A quick look at the depth sounder- 14 feet. Down in the trough again and BANG! Should we turn to port or starboard, turn around, or keep going? I couldn’t bear the thought of turning around and presenting our beam to the onslaught of waves so with gritted teeth we carried on dreading that next gut wrenching bang. That next bang never happened. After that third grounding we passed from the lighter coloured water to the darker, deeper water. We were free- pitching and rolling wildly but moving away from danger. That’s when the knees, all four of them, Liz’s and mine, went wobbly. Liz took the wheel while I wobbled down to the engine room to see if we were now taking on water. It was with trepidation that I directed our super bright dive light into the bilge. It was dry. I forced myself to remain peering at the bilge for a full minute to convince myself we were in no imminent danger and that we hadn’t inflicted any major or lasting damage on our beloved floating home.

That didn’t stop Liz and me from feeling sick about what was the worst thing we had ever done to Feel Free in our 16 years of ownership. Later, in the underwater inspection, I discovered she was at least 20 pounds lighter as a result of the removal of a grapefruit sized lump of lead from the bottom of the keel.

 On that day, we were one of four boats heading west. In addition to High Spirits were the Australian boat Santana, eight miles ahead and the British flagged Crazy Daisy, two miles behind (seen here later in the day).

One hour into our trip, Santana called to advise that they too had gone aground in soft mud behind a reef and were able to free themselves without assistance. Kevin of Santana suggested as best he could how we might negotiate the murky water where they grounded, but an hour later, Dave from High Spirits radioed us to report he too had gone aground in that same area. Unbelievable that within three hours, three boats had hit the bottom!

News of High Spirits taking the ground was enough to send me up the mast to see if the route through this reefy maze was more discernible from a position of height. It was despite the somewhat murky water that the reefs could be spotted from my position on the spreaders some 20 feet above the deck. Bob of Crazy Daisy, a boat with a five foot draft, quickly saw the benefits of following a boat drawing eight feet, Feel Free, and tucked in immediately behind us as we wended our way through, and Crazy Daisy was the only boat of the four not to touch bottom that day.

By 1500 hours we had covered 39 stressful miles, either rocking and rolling in six to nine foot seas or dodging coral in flat but shallow waters behind an increasing number of large reefs. We were constantly inputting waypoints into the GPS, checking our progress and our position. One of us was always watching for white water breaking on shoals all around us. Each one was noted and its location on our charts checked. We needed to know exactly where we were and what we were looking at. Besides that, our autopilots were still on the blink so Liz became our human autopilot while I scampered up and down the mast, using a hand held radio to communicate with her “port 20 degrees” or “starboard 10” or whatever.

Surrounding us was a picturesque panorama of traditional sailing canoes tacking to and fro and idyllic, picture perfect villages but we were just too occupied to enjoy them or even get the camera out.

It was an exhausting, nerve wracking day but it put us over the hump. The following day, only 20 miles away, was Nargana and the rest of our time in the San Blas would be sailing behind the extensive reef system which promised mostly flat water sailing and flat water anchorages. Hallelujah! We were definitely ready for that.