September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye

September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation

September 1, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing

August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez

August 1, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind

July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap

July 1, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec

June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico

June 1, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua

May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising

May 1, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica

April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There

April 1, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama

March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money

March 1, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal

February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal

February 1, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific

January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week

January 1, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef

December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

December 1, 2011

November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise

November 1, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question

October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers

October 3, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World

September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come

September 1, 2011
Sailing for Humanity

August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work

August 1, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish

July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books

July 1, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas

June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala

June 1, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise

May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now

May 1, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala

April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

April 1, 2011
At Last in the San Blas

March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2

February 1, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1

January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude

December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane

December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba

December 1, 2010
Stuck in Curacao

November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing

November 1, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks

October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe

October 4, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal

September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing

September 1, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea

August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao

August 1, 2010
Bonaire Diving

July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire

July 1, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles

June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent

June 1, 2010
Right Place, Right Time

May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle

May 1, 2010
To the Grenadines

April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon

April 1, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II

March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1

March 1, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing

February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations

February 1, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands

January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing

December 1, 2009
Moving On To Morocco

November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med

November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone

October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol

October 1, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise

September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well

August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca

August 1, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca

July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast

July 1, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia

June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa

June 1, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails

May 15, 2009
Into Africa

May 1, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia

April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy

April 1, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles

March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling

March 1, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports

February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta

February 1, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2

January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1

January 2, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time

December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear

December 1, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend

November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise

November 1, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz

October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman

October 1, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins

September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta

September 1, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

August 1, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians

July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca

July 1, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe

June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece

June 1, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey

May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey

April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

April 1, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget

March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi

March 1, 2008
Home Sweet Home

February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising

February 1, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World

January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free

January 1, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni

January 1, 2008
About Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Voyage Itinerary

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

Latitude 10 deg 24 N, Longitude 75 deg 32 W
Cartagena, Colombia

Liz Tosoni

Legendary Cartagena was shrouded in a blanket of haze and fog as we approached from the north northeast. Blinking our eyes, we could barely make out the long row of forts, castles and modern buildings piercing the morning sky.

To wall a city, fortify it with castles, crisscross it with tunnels, and trick the enemy with underwater walls constituted a challenge to human ingenuity yet somehow the Spaniards managed to do it. It took them 200 years and 50 million gold pesos, a lot more than King Philip had initially allocated to the project, but the expense paid off.

I was imagining the day back in 1741 when no fewer than 186 British ships were anchored in a line exactly where we were, readying themselves for a massive assault on the city, with 2,070 canons and more than 23,000 troops waiting for orders. Little did they know about the wall, a powerful concoction of cement, seawater, sand, wood, and beeswax lying underwater at the Boca Grande entrance. This was part of the complex of fortresses and walls of Cartagena, the greatest engineering achievement of its time, and the most complete in the Americas. Nor were they aware that forts had been reinforced by a chain stretching clear across the main, narrow entrance, Boca Chica, preventing entry.

The Spaniards, outnumbered seven to one but with 158 canons and the formidable fort of San Felipe de Barajas, its walls ingeniously slanted to counter the impact of iron bullets, held firm. Every guide tells you the story of how Spanish commander Don Blas de Lezo and his men resisted the attacks for months, eating the last rat in the castle to survive.

In the end, Edward Vernon, the British commander, who had had a medal struck commemorating victory so sure was he of it, retired in humiliation to Jamaica, his troops having succumbed to malaria, dysentery and yellow fever.

Because of its wide, secure bay, and strategic position at the top of South America, Cartagena was the exit point for immense riches plundered from the Indians and bound for Spain. It must have been a sight to behold, a fleet of galleons, loaded with treasure, setting sail twice a year protected by an armada of warships. No wonder this key commercial post had to be defended at all costs.

Its one of those legendary places that you conjure images of in your minds eye as you hear tales and read accounts, imagining what it will be like when you finally arrive there. Like Mexico, the Philippines, Malaysia, Thailand, and Turkey, its a kind of mecca where you can find cruisers lingering not just days, weeks or even months, but for years. Arriving in Cartagena for the crew of Feel Free meant another important landmark in our long circuitous voyage had been reached. How did we feel upon arrival at this storied landfall? Elation? Excitement? Exhilaration? All of the above!

And to top off this happy arrival, it was reunion time with Steve and Eva of Music, good pals we hadnt seen since the Canary Islands one year ago when we set off for Barbados, they for Brazil. There was much catching up to do.

So whats the big draw to Cartagena these days for cruising boats? Well, for starters, the harbour itself: large and well protected, with plenty of room for ships large and small. Freighters, container ships, cruise ships, naval vessels, war ships, Coast Guard vessels, charter vessels and sailing vessels from every corner of the globe rest side by side in this dynamic port of call, encircled by high rise edifices, like sentries watching over the bobbing boats, as well as ancient forts, cathedrals and monuments, steeped in history.

Okay, I have to tell you, the waters of the harbour can be brown and muddy, not clean enough to swim in, sadly for us. No doing laps around the boat for fitness here. But we werent there for the swimming.

Then, theres the bienvenido! you get. Club Nautico is a marina like no other, dedicated to the needs of cruisers and renowned for the welcome mat it lays out.


Rather dilapidated it is, even a little hazardous, but the funky, Popeye the Sailor Man atmosphere gives the club a character and charm all its own as it goes through a major reconstruction process. These cruiser kids are brave running along the docks and the marina office with outdoor shower stalls to the right isnt exactly five star!
John Halley the dock manager/dockmaster has been part of the marina for years yet his brimming enthusiasm and willingness to share his wide knowledge and expertise, answer questions hes doubtless heard a million times, make a phone call or draw a map for you, were totally refreshing.

Cartagenas Port Captain doesnt deal with yachts directly, insisting on the use of an agent and check-in procedures were made easy, well, sort of easy, through David, our genial and easy going agent. Welcome to Cartagena. How long would you like to stay- a few days? a few weeks? a few years? he greeted us, good naturedly.

He seems to follow the laissez-faire way of doing things- that is, telling you things in stages rather than up front.

The agents fee is only $75 for checking-in and out.

Alright, even though we had already paid $100 for checking in and out at Santa Marta. Then a couple of days later,

You must pay $30 for the temporary importation of your boat because you are staying longer than eight days.

Okay, no worries, if thats the law, thats the law. A week later, I asked him if we could have our temporary importation permit.

Oh no, that will take another 10 days. (What if we wanted to check out before then? Luckily, we didnt.)

Then comes another whammie in another couple of days,

$80 is the charge for your cruising permit. Can you bring it on Monday? If you dont have it, and the Coast Guard stops you, you could get a fine.
Oh really, what would the fine be?
About $1,000.

Yikes! Better get that cruising permit.

And of course, there are no receipts offered for any of the transactions. They seem to be an unheard of commodity.

Anyway, what does that all add up to? Just $285. Of 47 countries weve sailed into, this would be the highest amount paid for checking in. Ah, Colombia! Welcome to Latin American bureaucracy. If wed had to pay that amount in entry fees to every country (some countries, two or three times), the total would be upwards of $20,000. Thankfully, most countries charge nothing or next to nothing for entry and exit.

Club Nautico publishes a cruisers booklet unmatched anywhere for information on anything and everything a sailor could possibly want to know about life in Cartagena, parts and services, entertainment etc. The morning Net on VHF channel 68 is also an invaluable source of info.

Cartagena besides being the largest port in Colombia, is probably the safest place in the country and Club Nautico is located in a nice suburban neighbourhood, just three or four blocks away from the biggest police station in the city, and less than half an hours walk from the famous city.

Safe though it is, dinghy theft can be a problem however, but only if you dont take the necessary precautions: Dont just lock it, lift it and lock it, or lose it is the motto around here. A couple of days ago a cruiser was visiting a friend on a large power boat in the anchorage. He tied and locked his dinghy with 15 hp outboard to the stern of his friends boat when he arrived but when he went to leave it was gone! The cunning, not to mention cheeky thief managed to cut the painter, drifting off silently with his new vehicle while the hapless owner was enjoying an evening drink.

Another Cartagena draw is The Things You See, surprises every way you turn. How considerate of a city to provide a doggie poop station! This one is in a park just minutes from Club Nautico. We had never seen full breasted mannequins but in this land of sexy women and busty babes, they are aplenty. And coming across prettily costumed dancers who are happy to pose for you can be an everyday occurrence.
Then theres the fruit, the luscious fruit- papayas, pomellos (pamplemouse, a large, sweet grapefruit, my favourite), mangos, bananas, pineapples, apples, oranges, mandarins, watermelons, avocados, strawberries, berries I dont even know. Mounds of beautiful, colourful, juicy fruit, fruit juice shops, donkey carts of fruit, strong, colourful mamas with colourful fruit baskets balanced on heads. In Cartagena you are in fruit heaven.
The comida corriente or everyday meal is a remarkable thing. For about $3 you can have a hearty meal of soup, rice, banana or cassava, potato, lentils, small salad, plus your choice of meat, chicken or fish and a local drink- very wholesome and very filling and found in hundreds of restaurants all over the city.

The Things To Do are another huge Cartagena draw. Tonight there is a concert in the auditorium of the San Felipe De Barajas Fort. Its a laser video on a wide screen featuring, among others, Placido Domingo and Sarah Albright. Are we going? You bet, in fact, Id better get ready! Tomorrow night there will be a live performance at the same locale- the Cartagena Philharmonic Orchestra will accompany the Cartagena Coral Singers. And on Friday a classical guitarist will be playing at La Recula del Oveja .................. and theres a temporary exhibit of indigenous art at the Museum of Modern Art and, and, and...................................