September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye

September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation

September 1, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing

August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez

August 1, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind

July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap

July 1, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec

June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico

June 1, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua

May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising

May 1, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica

April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There

April 1, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama

March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money

March 1, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal

February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal

February 1, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific

January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week

January 1, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef

December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

December 1, 2011

November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise

November 1, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question

October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers

October 3, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World

September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come

September 1, 2011
Sailing for Humanity

August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work

August 1, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish

July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books

July 1, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas

June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala

June 1, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise

May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now

May 1, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala

April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

April 1, 2011
At Last in the San Blas

March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2

February 1, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1

January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude

December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane

December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba

December 1, 2010
Stuck in Curacao

November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing

November 1, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks

October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe

October 4, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal

September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing

September 1, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea

August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao

August 1, 2010
Bonaire Diving

July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire

July 1, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles

June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent

June 1, 2010
Right Place, Right Time

May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle

May 1, 2010
To the Grenadines

April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon

April 1, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II

March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1

March 1, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing

February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations

February 1, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands

January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing

December 1, 2009
Moving On To Morocco

November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med

November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone

October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol

October 1, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise

September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well

August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca

August 1, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca

July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast

July 1, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia

June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa

June 1, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails

May 15, 2009
Into Africa

May 1, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia

April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy

April 1, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles

March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling

March 1, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports

February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta

February 1, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2

January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1

January 2, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time

December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear

December 1, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend

November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise

November 1, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz

October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman

October 1, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins

September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta

September 1, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

August 1, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians

July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca

July 1, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe

June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece

June 1, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey

May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey

April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

April 1, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget

March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi

March 1, 2008
Home Sweet Home

February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising

February 1, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World

January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free

January 1, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni

January 1, 2008
About Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Voyage Itinerary

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

By Liz Tosoni

To Moroccan locals, the medina is the market, it’s where everything under the sun can be bought, where you can find a translator, a typist to type a document, a house painter, a camel steak, a tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice or a cup of mint tea; it’s just a part of quotidian existence.

To the traveler though, it’s pure exotica; the sights, sounds, smells and tastes, a savory, sensory happening. In the background, five times a day, is the sonorous sound of the muezzin call to prayer, in the souks and medinas, colorful pyramids of herbs, spices and dried fruit, conical pots of aromatic tajines, delectable pastries, hanging chickens, camel heads and sides of beef, finely woven carpets and fabrics, glittering brass and silverware, soft leather products, elegant traditional clothing and slippers, all juxtaposed one against the other, seemingly haphazardly.



Especially on festive occasions, Moroccan women love to have their feet and hands decorated with floral designs, in henna, and I was lured too.

Bouregreg Marina was our little sanctuary while in Sale, Rabat’s twin city. Outside was the traffic noise, pollution, the hustle and bustle of city life, the Kasbah, the medinas, the souks, all very fascinating but fatiguing too. We yearned for some clean mountain air, so six yachties, Steve and Eva of Music, GB and Sarah of Djarrka, and Tom and I, set out at 0530 on the Marrakesh Express, bound for a four day a trek in the high Atlas Mountains of Morocco.

Just outside the train station in Marrakesh, the famous Moroccan touts immediately gravitated toward us. We knew our next destination to be Imlil, the base for our trek into the mountains and we knew that we needed to find the bus station, Bab Rob, about a mile from the station. “You must take grand taxi. No problem. Only 300 dirham” said our tout. (300 dirham is about $37.) We asked how far away it was. “Very far, 15 km. You need a taxi. It’s no problem, I have a taxi for you.” We had a map from the Lonely Planet Guide book so we said thank you but no thank you and carried on, eventually finding our way to the bus station by foot. No problem. A local bus fit us all, squished in like so many sardines, and took us to Asni, a two hour drive, and our first Berber village with houses of red earth stacked in clusters around the green valley, the souk buzzing with business, the people in hooded gowns, pointed cowls. Then, a taxi, an old Mercedes, two more hours driving, and we were in Imlil where mules are the main form of transport and “gites” are the places of rest, very basic but clean with mattresses, blankets, showers and meals provided.

Once settled in our gite, “Café Aksoual”, it sunk in, we’d been transported to another world.

Around every bend and turn was a picture-perfect panoramic vista. Our muscles ached but we didn’t care; we stopped a lot and soaked in the splendid scenery. It took about 7 hours to cover about 7 miles, very slow going with our sailor legs, to arrive at our first overnight stop on the trail in Ourenskra. We stayed at “Gite Diame Treck” (7,150 ft.), a utilitarian place with a lovely view and nice host family, paying 270 dirham (about $33) for the two of us for room, showers, dinner of hearty tajine (Moroccan dish of vegetables, potatoes, and lamb or chicken all simmered together in a clay pot) and breakfast of pancakes with honey.

Day two, a half hour uphill, huffing and puffing in the early morning, and we were in Tacheddirt.

After Tacheddirt, it was a long, slow, steep trek to the pass, Tizi Tacheddirt, (10,400 feet) which took us about three hours to cover, up, up and up with more fantastic views all the way, then down, down, and down some more, another three or four hours.

At the pass, a blind man sells cokes and fantas. He trudges up to the pass pushing his old grey mare, to sell his refreshments, every day. He told us that he has to make money for medicine since he can’t work because of his eyes. Those cokes were mighty refreshing after that long climb!

In Timichi, dead tired, we stayed at “Gite d’Iteape”, the first gite you come to, the owner a friendly and welcoming gentleman, Brahim Oussalem.




Day three is a gentler walk (about five hours), more gradually sloping, through terraced valleys, by cascading waterfalls and ancient gnarled walnut trees, to the pretty town of Setti Fatma, on the river, where tourists (and touts) abound . It’s no wonder as you can hike to 7 waterfalls from this lovely spot.

At the gite, there’s a sorry excuse for a shower and a walk downstairs to the shared toilet, but the tajine is tasty and plentiful, or, if you choose, you can have cous cous, which also looked delicious.

After a short rest, we took a stroll through the town on the river, and found it to be abuzz with activity: walnuts being processed, fruit from the nopale cactus being collected, mules being cared for and tended to, stores being put away, walkways being repaired.




From Setti Fatma, we made our way by taxi back to the big city of Marrakesh with its opulent buildings and dazzling market.

 We’d had a short but sweet trip to the interior of Morocco. Muscles were sore, minds stimulated. We had our fix of cool, clean mountain air and fresh perspectives, but Feel Free was waiting for us back in Sale.