September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye

September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation

September 1, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing

August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez

August 1, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind

July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap

July 1, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec

June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico

June 1, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua

May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising

May 1, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica

April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There

April 1, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama

March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money

March 1, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal

February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal

February 1, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific

January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week

January 1, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef

December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

December 1, 2011

November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise

November 1, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question

October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers

October 3, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World

September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come

September 1, 2011
Sailing for Humanity

August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work

August 1, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish

July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books

July 1, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas

June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala

June 1, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise

May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now

May 1, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala

April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

April 1, 2011
At Last in the San Blas

March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2

February 1, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1

January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude

December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane

December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba

December 1, 2010
Stuck in Curacao

November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing

November 1, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks

October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe

October 4, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal

September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing

September 1, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea

August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao

August 1, 2010
Bonaire Diving

July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire

July 1, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles

June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent

June 1, 2010
Right Place, Right Time

May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle

May 1, 2010
To the Grenadines

April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon

April 1, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II

March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1

March 1, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing

February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations

February 1, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands

January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing

December 1, 2009
Moving On To Morocco

November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med

November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone

October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol

October 1, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise

September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well

August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca

August 1, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca

July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast

July 1, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia

June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa

June 1, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails

May 15, 2009
Into Africa

May 1, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia

April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy

April 1, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles

March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling

March 1, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports

February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta

February 1, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2

January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1

January 2, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time

December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear

December 1, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend

November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise

November 1, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz

October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman

October 1, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins

September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta

September 1, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

August 1, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians

July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca

July 1, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe

June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece

June 1, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey

May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey

April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

April 1, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget

March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi

March 1, 2008
Home Sweet Home

February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising

February 1, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World

January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free

January 1, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni

January 1, 2008
About Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Voyage Itinerary

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

By Liz Tosoni

Siracusa, Sicily
37 03.7 N, 15 16.9 E

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...” Those famous words of Charles Dickens’ aptly apply to our passage from our last Greek isle, Cephalonia, to Siracusa (Syracuse) Italy.

The afternoon before departure, we walked to the old lighthouse of Fiskardho Cephalonia.

The course was 255 miles across the Ionian Sea and the forecast was perfect really for the 265-mile voyage -- northerlies or north-westerlies of Beaufort Force 4 or 5, and sometimes 6 (15- 25 knots), and then lightening up closer to the Italian coast. The winds would be on the beam or aft of the beam and that sounded simply ideal for our first overnight sailing trip in over a year.

We talked about breaking it up into two parts -- the first leg to the “boot” of Italy, and the second leg from there to Siracusa, about half way down the east coast of Sicily -- but when we learned that the harbors on the boot can be shallow and questionable and that the stretch of water between there and Sicily can be tricky, we changed the plan. With the predicted winds, we could easily do it in two days.

Since leaving Turkey, we’d done day hops only throughout Greece and hadn’t given much thought to the old ditch kit or “abandon ship” kit, so while in Cephalonia we spent some time re-examining the contents, adding to and updating them.

Feel Free was made ship-shape with everything stowed in proper compartments and anything that could rattle or roll was put neatly away. A reef was put in the main. Rigging was checked. We find that it’s always a good idea to have food prepared ahead of time for a passage, so the evening before, I made a hearty vegetable stew. We were ready.

Preparing for passagemaking meant taking out the ditch kit, after its long hibernation, and checking its contents.

It’s often with mixed feelings that we leave one country for the next, especially when we haven’t given the country justice -- we certainly felt that we could have explored Greece for many more months. But also, departing fills us with excited anticipation. New travel guide and pilot books are put in the “library” ready for easy access, charts are brought out, old ones put away

Our next Mediterranean country, Italy, was of particular import for me. My dear (departed) Dad was born Antonio Tosoni in a small northern Italian village, Castel Nuovo, in 1920. (My mom is of French and Scottish heritage.) With his parents, Sante and Eliza, my father emigrated to Canada via New York in 1929 and like so many Italian immigrants, he was of very humble beginnings. But, he went on to achieve a doctorate in biochemistry, and together with Dr. Peter Maloney discovered a method to crystallize penicillin, a significant accomplishment in antibiotic therapy, and something our family is very proud of. Anyway, I’m half Italian, and to arrive by sailboat to the land of my ancestors had always been a dream. Now it was becoming a reality.

New travel guide and pilot books are put in the “library” ready for easy access when we set out for a new landfall.

The afternoon before departure, we came across more ancient ruins on our last stroll in Greece, near the old lighthouse of Fiskardho Cephalonia. That discovery along with a fine evening, was a fitting finish to our short stay in Greece.

Next morning before dawn and in the dark, we headed out of the harbor with the engine purring. By 0700 it was blowing 20 knots out of the northwest, seas were lumpy and uncomfortable, but with a reefed main, staysail and small jib, we moved along briskly at 7-8 knots. As the day progressed, though, conditions got rambunctious and rough, winds increased and we had to put another reef in the main.

Feel Free was well heeled over. The motion down below was jerky, even violent at times. This wasn’t in the brochure! We had expected calm seas and a nice and easy breeze. As is often the case on the first day of a passage when conditions are boisterous, neither Tom nor I felt like eating or drinking. Mal de mer set in. We had to force ourselves to drink water and take in some nourishment -- dry crackers, broth. We couldn’t manage the stew at all. Using the stove was a major feat.

Liz’s father Antonio Tosoni, was born in 1920 in a small, humble northern Italian village. Later, in Canada he achieved a doctorate in biochemistry and with a colleague discovered a method to crystallize penicillin.

To make matters worse, we were having autopilot problems. The main autopilot, “Benny” a Cetec Benmar 210 Course Keeper, was not holding the course well at all. This was unusual. Benny has almost always been our number 1 pilot, a fantastic crew member. Normally, a quick squirt to the contact points with contact cleaner fixes things (we joke about his “addiction”) but not today.

The backup, “Cappy”, our cockpit wheel driven CPT autopilot, was also misbehaving. He just couldn’t keep up with the lively conditions. It’s times like these when you really wonder why you go to sea at all. It all seems so unnatural, so miserable, and you want to scream “Get me off this boat right now! I’m not meant for this life.” It had been a very long time since I’d felt that way -- I believe the last time was en route from Sri Lanka to the Maldive Islands over a year ago.

Liz’s mother (of French and Scottish heritage), and Liz, pictured in 2006. “We’re lucky that she’s always been incredibly supportive of our alternative lifestyle,” says Liz.

I spent most of the time down below, lying supine on my bunk just trying to be still and comfortable. Because of the motion and angle of heel, there was only one really comfy spot in the cockpit, that being the one on the leeward side, and Tom wanted to be there so he could monitor autopilots, weather and things in general. That was fine with me. I was in my cocoon down below and every hour or so I’d head up into the cockpit to check on Tom and the world outside.

"Is everything OK Tom?” I asked intermittently.

“Yep, we’re moving along nicely,” he always replied reassuringly.

We spent our days ashore in Greece walking and exploring the ruins.

I’d look at the GPS and C-Map to see where we were, make an entry into the log book, then take over the helm while Tom took a break, went below to check things and quickly returned to his station in the cockpit. He preferred to be there while I preferred to be down below, a very convenient situation.

By 2230, winds had abated to 25 knots and seas along with them. Miraculously, “Cappy” was steering flawlessly. The jib was furled, we began a two-hour on, two-hour off watch system and all went smoothly for the rest of the cold night, as Feel Free bowled along at 5 to 6 knots.

On the morning of Day 2 winds were down to a very civilized 15 knots, still out of the northwest, so we shook out the reefs and settled in for a relaxing time. (Hadn’t we already learned our lesson about never letting your guard down in the Med?) Shortly after noon, Tom commented “That’s an interesting looking sky.”

We came across yet some more ancient ruins on our last stroll in Greece, near the old lighthouse of Fiskardho Cephalonia.

Then, at 1230, WHACK, a vicious squall arrived, putting Feel Free, under full sail, on her ear and the boat rounded up uncontrollably, causing the autopilot to experience a severe seizure. Even after disconnecting the autopilot, given the strong winds and resultant weather helm, the boat remained on her ear, unresponsive to the helm, a very scary feeling for this little chicken at the helm. Major sail reduction was required, and fast!! With Herculean effort, we managed to roll the furling jib in and then Tom raced to the mast shouting "two reefs!"

That done, and with the boat balanced once again, we had steerage back and Cappy returned to his job, too. With only a staysail and a double-reefed main our speed over the ground was 7 knots, we had 30 knot winds and not surprisingly, seas were up again as well.

There was only one really comfy spot in the cockpit during the passage, the one on the leeward side. Liz preferred to stay down below.

By 1400, skies were clearing, winds were dying and we had big fat lousy seas so “Yosh” (our 70-horse Isuzu engine) was put into action. The sun started to peak out. At around 1800, skies darkened once again, huge bands of black and white were clearly delineated above the horizon.

Then came the booming thunderstorm: thunder, lightning, torrential rain, followed by hail. Particularly disconcerting for Tom was the fact that a) the lightening was coming from every point of the compass, and b) the time interval between lightning and thunder, which initially was 9 seconds, was decreasing to 7 sec., 6 sec. and finally, 2 sec.

Hmm… maybe it’s time to start disconnecting electronics? He took this time to remind me that although our electronics were possibly in peril, we were not, being surrounded by the shrouds and stays. He harkened back to grade-12 physics and said something about a Faraday Cage,“A sailboat is a pretty safe place to be.” I hoped Tom was right. It was pretty hard to believe that though when you’re in the midst of the loud pyrotechnics.

Late in the afternoon of the second day of the passage, skies darkened once again and huge, clearly defined bands of black and white appeared above the horizon.

The storm was short lived thankfully and once it had passed, there was glorious sunshine and flat seas and by 2030, a rosy sunset, with appearances of a nice night shaping up. Just after midnight, the wind picked up from the north and sails were set as a gorgeous 15-, then 18-knot breeze filled in, stars winked. I was the lucky one to be on watch when the moon rose, appearing like a giant orange wedge floating across the sky before it transformed itself into brilliant white, lighting up our path to Sicily.

We reduced sail in order to slow down and make a dawn entry into Siracusa harbor. From a distance, we could just make out a long row of lights, glittering like gems, marking the starboard side, guiding us. A red flashing light was on the port side. Yet closer, a flashing pale green light could be seen, standing at the outer edge of the lights, by a conspicuous, 13th century castle, Castello Maniace, a spectacular sight in the early morning light.

In Siracusa, we made new friends and took in the sights

The sky was awash in an orange glow as Feel Free ghosted into Grand Harbor. Medieval buildings, a domed cathedral, the Old Town of Ortigia soon came into view. It was a thrill to drop anchor in this ancient historical Italian port – perhaps even made more so by a bit of passage pain -- and it was another great landfall for Feel Free and her crew.

The unpleasant passage behind us, we walked the streets of Siracusa.


A new place seems even more beautiful if it’s a hairy ride to get there.