September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye

September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation

September 1, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing

August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez

August 1, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind

July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap

July 1, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec

June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico

June 1, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua

May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising

May 1, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica

April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There

April 1, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama

March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money

March 1, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal

February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal

February 1, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific

January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week

January 1, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef

December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2

December 1, 2011

November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise

November 1, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question

October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers

October 3, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World

September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come

September 1, 2011
Sailing for Humanity

August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work

August 1, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish

July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books

July 1, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas

June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala

June 1, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise

May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now

May 1, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala

April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas

April 1, 2011
At Last in the San Blas

March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon

March 1, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!

February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2

February 1, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1

January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude

December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane

December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba

December 1, 2010
Stuck in Curacao

November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing

November 1, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks

October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe

October 4, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal

September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing

September 1, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea

August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao

August 1, 2010
Bonaire Diving

July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire

July 1, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles

June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent

June 1, 2010
Right Place, Right Time

May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle

May 1, 2010
To the Grenadines

April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon

April 1, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II

March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1

March 1, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing

February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations

February 1, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands

January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa

January 1, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............

December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing

December 1, 2009
Moving On To Morocco

November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med

November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone

October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol

October 1, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise

September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles

September 1, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well

August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca

August 1, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca

July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast

July 1, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia

June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa

June 1, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails

May 15, 2009
Into Africa

May 1, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia

April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy

April 1, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles

March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling

March 1, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports

February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta

February 1, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2

January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1

January 2, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time

December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear

December 1, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend

November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise

November 1, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz

October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman

October 1, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins

September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta

September 1, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story

August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

August 1, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians

July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca

July 1, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe

June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece

June 1, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey

May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey

April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

April 1, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget

March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi

March 1, 2008
Home Sweet Home

February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising

February 1, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World

January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free

January 1, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni

January 1, 2008
About Feel Free

January 1, 2008
Voyage Itinerary

April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip

By Liz Tosoni

Yacht Marina Marmaris, Southwest Turkey
36 49.05N, 28 18.32E

One of the many benefits of sailing to foreign destinations is traveling inland to see the sights at your leisure. You get to explore the new land from the comfort of your own floating home. It's a simple but perfect concept for those of us who are born travelers. Cruising is about passagemaking and landing, and for so many sailors the “arriving” is just as important as the “getting there.” It certainly is for us. Thinking back over our two decades of sailing, many of the high points we experienced were away from the boat. Here are a few examples:
The people we met in Papa New Guinea were some of the most interesting in the world.

We delivered a jeep to Mount Hagen in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, and saw with our own eyes the most primitive culture we've ever encountered - a woman suckling a pig, men wearing penis sheaths and carrying bows and arrows. We were warned to never accidentally hit a pig as it would cost us $2,000 or our lives. To hit a woman would be less serious!

We once took a river cruise to the Tanjung Puting National Park in Borneo, aboard a local klotok, an “African Queen” style river vessel. A pair of small dolphins escorted us and, at a leisurely pace, we putt-putted along while observing all manner of wildlife. The humorous red, long-nosed proboscis monkeys, found only in Borneo, were the most interesting; they leapt huge distances, and munched as they observed the funny-looking bigger monkeys (us!).

Regal, immense and powerful, the orangutans of Borneo made a big impression on us.

We spotted several river crocodiles, a group of six wild pigs, and lots of birds including the distinctive hornbills. The highlight, though, was coming face to face with the orangutans. We met adult females and their adorable, clinging, fluffy orange infants; playful adolescent males and females; and two dominant adult males, with circular cheek pads and large throat pouches, bold and regal looking with high foreheads and vibrant, flowing coats of fur. They stared at us as if to say. “I rule. Don’t mess with me.”

Another time, we took a leisurely three-day cruise-ship voyage on the Nile River in Egypt to view ancient temple ruins, fine traditional felucca fishing boats sailing by at a sedate pace, and simple village life on the banks of the river.

We once rented a car in Israel for a camping tour with friends Graham and Karen of the New Zealand yacht Red Herring. Besides visiting many historic cities, sites, castles, and ruins, camping by the River Jordan and floating in the Dead Sea, the big highlight on that journey was meeting and getting to know the people, and hearing their points of view.

So here we are in Turkey now, a vast and diverse country where everyone says hos geldeniz! -- Welcome! It's known as the “open-air museum” for its countless remains of ancient civilizations, with an incredibly long and rich history, beauteous countryside, and wondrous landforms to explore. Few people realize that many of the most famous sites from classical Hellenistic culture are not in Greece but in Turkey, including cities such as Troy, Pergamum, Ephesus, and Halicarnassus.

Where to begin? We've got a boatful of projects and maintenance tasks on the go, but we've got to make time to get out there to see what we can see. My sister Ann Marie's husband Herman was born in Turkey, and emigrated to Canada as a small boy. Over the years Tom and I have been intrigued by their stories of this exotic land. Now we have our chance to learn about it firsthand.

“You've got to see Cappadocia first,” the old hands at the marina advised. “And then of course you can't miss Pamukkale, and Konya is a must for thearchitecture.” And of course there was Istanbul, Antalya, Ephesus… the list went on.

“After much head scratching about logistics, we decided to use the reasonably priced public-transport system and head for Cappadocia (Kapadokya), armed with warm clothes, hiking boots, and our trusty Lonely Planet Guide. We were all set, packed, and brimming with enthusiasm, prepared for the 12 hour, overnight bus ride, when Tom, as is his custom prior to all departures, checked the weather forecast on the internet.

Tom enjoys a tea room near Cappadocia

Cappaducia was like a city-scape of rock towers and dwellings









“Looks like we've got some bad weather for a few days. Maybe we should hold off 'till Monday” he concluded. Of course, we're used to that scenario, but I know my face couldn't hide the disappointment. As it turned out, Marmaris then got its worst downpour in 10 years. Downtown streets and shops were flooded, people found themselves struggling in knee-high water as they made their ways home.

Sure enough, though, we got away, arriving in Goreme, a small town tucked neatly inside the Cappadocian valleys, early Tuesday morning. We were sleepy eyed as dawn appeared, but our eyes soon widened with astonishment as the wild landscape came into view. This is a place like no other, totally surprising and improbable. Masses of unique rock formations crop up on the horizon as far as the eye can see. These amazing giant sculptures were produced by volcanic eruptions that took place10 million years ago. A thick layer of volcanic ash spread, then hardened into a soft porous stone called “tuff,” and over eons, wind, water, and sand eroded and wore it away, forming elaborate shapes and patterns.

The amazing rock formations of Cappadocia must be seen to be believed. Many were used as dwellings

Some of the formations look like “fairy chimneys;” others are amusingly phallic; still others look like mushrooms or asparagus tips. The early inhabitants found they could easily carve the rock into cave dwellings, churches, even cathedrals and monasteries. Huge Christian communities thrived for centuries in these cave villages and a remarkable number of rock-hewn churches, complete with elaborate decorations, were left behind. Arab armies swept through the region in the 7th Century, causing the people to retreat into vast underground settlements.

Over four days, Tom and I tramped all over the extraordinary valleys of Cappadocia, quite in awe of all we saw. Weather was ideal for hiking, cool and clear, and the tourist season was over so we had it almost to ourselves. Some of the caves are still inhabited. In fact many of the hotels and pensions are caves, but not like the old days. We were happy to find a pension made of stone, not a cave, complete with windows and light pouring in.

Liz exploring Cappadocia

Next on the agenda was old Konya, a devoutly Muslim city famous for its fine Turkish architecture. The bus wound its way through a wide, windswept, lonely landscape, the heart of Turkey's very rich ‘bread basket.” Patches of green appeared and suddenly we were there.

“They must think I'm a gavur,” – infidel -- I say as soon as we arrived, feeling totally self-conscious of my western attire as the veiled women stared. It just took a friendly “Merhaba!” (hello) to break the ice, and the smiles soon followed.

We happened to be there on Saturday, the evening of the free “whirling dervish” show sponsored by UNESCO and held every week in the year 2007 at the Cultural Center. Last year was the 800th anniversary of the birthday of Mevlana, one of the world's great mystic philosophers and founder of the whirling-dervish religious order in Konya.

The colorful spires of Konya were architectural marvels.

“It's lucky you are here today,” said the amiable fellow in the Tourist Office. Normally, the dervishes only whirl during the Mevlana Festival one week per year, during December, so we really did feel lucky. The show, or rather, ritual dance, was a dizzying display, a constellation of revolving bodies, with musicians in the background playing breathy, haunting songs with their reed flutes.

What can top Cappadocia and Konya, we thought. Okay, we decided to try Pamukkale – it was on the way back to our boat in Marmaris, after all. So, just like that, we were off again, on another bus. The Turkish buses are great -- modern, inexpensive, comfortable, on schedule, and they even have friendly stewards that provide drinks and snacks.

When we arrived in Konya, I was self-conscious of my western attire as the veiled women stared. It just took a friendly “Merhaba!” (hello) to break the ice

“Are these your bags, my friend?” we are asked upon arrival in Denizli. “Yes,” we say in unison. “Oh, good. Are you going to Pamukkalle?” “Well, yes.” “Good. I hope you will stay in my family's pension. It's very nice, warm, comfortable, close, cheap. I can show you the way. You can take a look. No obligations.” How could we refuse? It was late in the day (“happy hour” in fact!) and we were tired. Our new friend lead us onto another shuttle bus and soon we were in Pamukkale. “Wait a minute. This isn't the town,” said Tom. “Don't worry. It's close and my pension is just down the road.”

Ancient buildings are all over Turkey, where you live amidst history

Our new friend (read “tout”) steered us to Dort Mevsin (Four Seasons) Pension. It's funny that we continue to get taken by these operators. You'd think after all these years we'd be able to spot them a mile away. Anyway, he and Tom had a bit of an argument over the price, the lack of heat (“5 lire more for heat”) and the fact we weren't in the town, but we ended up staying in the cheerful but rather chilly place, with a heater and plenty of blankets.

Pamukkale is another phenomenal spot and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name actually means “cotton castle” and that's a perfect image for the travertine pools and shelves of gleaming white calcium you find here. The Romans built a large spa city on the site, Hierapolis, to take advantage of the healing powers of the waters, and the extensive ruins are really impressive. You could spend several days wandering the area as well as taking day trips to Afrodisias and Laodikya, but we'd been away from Feel Free for over a week and it was time to go home.

So, after another full day, we hopped a bus and by early evening were back at the boat. Simple as that we were back in our own cozy bed -- home sweet home – with a list of jobs to get started upon the next day, and our heads full of the amazing sights of Turkey.

The whirling dervishes of Konya