September 30, 2012
Saying Good Bye


September 15, 2012
Reflections on Our 27 Year Circumnavigation


September 01, 2012
Sea of Cortez Sailing


August 15, 2012
Back to the Sea of Cortez


August 01, 2012
After Circumnavigation: What to Take, What to Leave Behind


July 15, 2012
Mexican Booby Trap


July 01, 2012
Tackling the Tehuantepec


June 14, 2012
Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico


June 01, 2012
Sailing northern Costa Rica and Nicargua


May 15, 2012
Costa Rican Cruising


May 01, 2012
New Found Friends in Golfito, Costa Rica


April 15, 2012
It’s a Jungle Out There


April 01, 2012
Hunting and Gathering in Panama


March 15, 2012
Money.... Money.... Money


March 01, 2012
Feel Free Transits the Panama Canal


February 15, 2012
Transiting the Panama Canal


February 01, 2012
Feel Free is Back in the Pacific


January 15, 2012
Charter Skipper for a Week


January 01, 2012
Confessions of a Charter Cat Chef


December 15, 2011
Away to the Andamans Part 2


December 01, 2011
AWAY to the ANDAMANs


November 15, 2011
Sailing in a Freshwater Paradise


November 01, 2011
To Barf or not to Barf, that is the question


October 14, 2011
Remarkable Cruisers


October 03, 2011
The Sea of Cortez, Another World


September 15, 2011
Panama Canal Here We Come


September 01, 2011
Sailing for Humanity


August 15, 2011
A Hard Lesson on the Hard and Reflections on Boat Work


August 01, 2011
Here Come the Lion Fish


July 15, 2011
The Joy of Books


July 01, 2011
The Sailors of San Blas


June 15, 2011
The Good Life in Kuna Yala


June 01, 2011
The Dirt Dweller in Paradise


May 15, 2011
People of the San Blas, Then and Now


May 01, 2011
Cruising in Kuna Yala


April 15, 2011
Near Disaster in the San Blas


April 01, 2011
At Last in the San Blas


March 15, 2011
Chilling Out in Cholon


March 01, 2011
Ah, Cartagena!


February 15, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 2


February 01, 2011
Cruising the Cape Horn of the Caribbean Part 1


January 14, 2011
Aruban Interlude


December 30, 2010
Hunkering Down for a Hurricane


December 15, 2010
A Day in the Life - Our Passage to Aruba


December 01, 2010
Stuck in Curacao


November 15, 2010
Stormy Night Sailing


November 01, 2010
Sailing In The Sticks


October 15, 2010
Safety, Security and Circumnavigating with some tips on how to stay safe


October 04, 2010
Feel Free Transits The Suez Canal


September 15, 2010
Red Sea Sailing


September 01, 2010
FEEL FREEs Voyage Into the Red Sea


August 15, 2010
And just a little further, to Curacao


August 01, 2010
Bonaire Diving


July 15, 2010
Then To Bonaire


July 01, 2010
Cruising Remote Venezuelan Isles


June 15, 2010
Cruising St. Vincent


June 01, 2010
Right Place, Right Time


May 15, 2010
The Spice Isle


May 01, 2010
To the Grenadines


April 15, 2010
We Be In Barbados Mon


April 01, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part II


March 15, 2010
Atlantic Passage Part 1


March 01, 2010
Provisioning for the Atlantic Crossing


February 15, 2010
Atlantic Crossing Preparations


February 01, 2010
Cruising the Canary Islands


January 15, 2010
Out Of Africa


January 01, 2010
Come With Me To The High Atlas Mountains.............


December 15, 2009
Two Years Of Mediterranean Sailing


December 01, 2009
Moving On To Morocco


November 18, 2009
Leaving The Med


November 13, 2009
Reaching The Rock Of Gibraltar Milestone


October 15, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del Sol


October 01, 2009
Sailing Spains Costa del High-rise


September 15, 2009
Sailing The Spanish Isles


September 01, 2009
At Sea Or On The Hook, These Recipes Travel Well


August 15, 2009
An Interlude At Menorca


August 01, 2009
A Pleasant Passage To Menorca


July 15, 2009
The Agony And Ecstasy Of The Tunisian Coast


July 01, 2009
Tripping Around Tunisia


June 15, 2009
Tales From North Africa


June 01, 2009
Dont Freak If Your Fridge Fails


May 15, 2009
Into Africa


May 01, 2009
Meandering Around Malta, Then Off To Tunisia


April 15, 2009
Low-Tech DIY Ideas For The New Economy


April 01, 2009
The Med Set A Few Cruiser Profiles


March 15, 2009
That Sinking Feeling


March 01, 2009
Thailand to Oman: Three Passages, Three Ports


February 15, 2009
Doing Hard Time in Malta


February 01, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 2


January 15, 2009
Pirate Alley Part 1


January 02, 2009
So Many Islands, So Little Time


December 15, 2008
Cruising With The Bear


December 01, 2008
Versatile Vinegar, The Boaters Friend


November 15, 2008
What I Did In This Summer -- Dock Masters In paradise


November 01, 2008
Over The Top Of Oz


October 16, 2008
The Tumultuous Tasman


October 01, 2008
Sweet Memories Of The Splendid Surins


September 15, 2008
And Then We Were In Malta


September 01, 2008
Feel Frees Siracusan Story


August 15, 2008
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times


August 01, 2008
All Tied Up In The Ionians


July 15, 2008
A Greek Odyssey Our Journey to Ithaca


July 01, 2008
Anatomy of a Near Catastrophe


June 15, 2008
Good-bye Turkey, Hello Greece


June 01, 2008
More Winter Cruising in Turkey


May 15, 2008
Winter Cruising in Turkey


April 15, 2008
Talking Turkey: Marmaris Marina Living


April 15, 2008
The Joy Of The Side Trip


April 01, 2008
Return to Marmaris, And The Budget


March 15, 2008
Passing Time And Dodging The Meltemi


March 01, 2008
Home Sweet Home


February 15, 2008
A Little Working, A Little Cruising


February 01, 2008
Working Our Way Around The World


January 15, 2008
Welcome Aboard Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Liz Tosonis and Tom Morkins Feel Free


January 01, 2008
About Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni


January 01, 2008
About Feel Free


January 01, 2008
Voyage Itinerary


March 01, 2008
Home Sweet Home

By Tom Morkin

Keci Burcu, Southwest Turkey

Home sweet home. That's exactly how Liz and I felt after three months of motorcycle camping in central and eastern Canada and the Atlantic northeastern U.S., to finally be back aboard Feel Free, still safely moored at Yacht Marina in Marmaris Turkey. Over the years, we've left our boat, home, and by far our most valued asset, in foreign countries for periods of at least three months, no fewer than seven times. This however, was the first time the boat was actually left in the water.

Tom on Feel Free, anchored off Marmaris, Turkey

We find it strange that we can be reasonably relaxed about her safety when we're 7,000 miles and three or four months away from her; but during that last hour before seeing the old girl again, we just can't get to her fast enough. Images of dead or dry batteries, leaky winches, and stained upholstery, what floods our brains are flooded bilges, mildew covered walls, rats, and insect infestations.

It’s only the thought of how foolish we'd look as, luggage bound, we’d go running and panting down the dock to reunite with our boat, that prevents us from doing just that. Before you snicker, bear in mind we've earned our anxieties. After a summer on the hard in San Carlos Mexico, we returned to three feet of water in the bilge. Another time, in Hawaii, dead batteries met us, and in the same boatyard returning yachties found their boat had been home for families of rats that had feasted on three sails, all the upholstery, engine hoses, not to mention most of the food in the larder, even the laundry detergent. Happily on this return, we weren't victims of any such calamities. In fact, except for the thick layer of beige Turkish dust on the deck, all was well.

Beautiful Turkish gullets un Bozburum

The next couple of days were spent slowly putting sails on, catching up with buddies, checking boat systems (despairingly, the genset, wind angle indicator and the transmit function of the SSB didn't fix themselves in our absence).

We reckon we’ve between one and two months of cruiseable weather before we have to hunker down for the Turkish winter. So, as much as we're happy just messin' around the boat and sleeping in our own home every night, we must recognize the clock is ticking and within five days we’re on our way.


Boatbuilding traditions in Bozburum

On the first day we cover a full five miles across Marmaris' almost landlocked bay to anchor off the town site. Marmaris is not everybody's nirvana, but as a sizeable town, one can get just about everything one needs. Its natural harbor is home to a huge number of the Turkish skippered sailing charter fleet. These "gullets" range in size from 70 feet to 150 feet, all built in wood, very traditional in design and in almost all cases, truly works of art. At any given time, 40 of these wondrous creations will be Med-moored (lying at anchor with stern tied to the city's breakwater). They take guests on trips from 1 to 14 days and we’ve seen them daily during our Turkish meanderings.

But today our main goal is to provision for the next two weeks or so, and with the big grocery store Tansas just two blocks from the waterfront, that task is quickly dispatched. The price you pay to anchor so close to the big city you pay at night when the bars that line the waterfront try to outdo one another with the volume of their sound systems. “Decibel Hell” starts at around 10 p.m. and runs to 2 a.m. or even later. At least it’s now cool enough at night to close the hatches, and we maintain a healthy supply of ear plugs onboard.

Karen and Graham of Red Herring

The following afternoon, we were hook down and 25 miles southwest of Marmaris in Serce Limani. This narrow and almost landlocked inlet, like so many anchorages in southwest Turkey, has two competing restaurants in the two corners of the bay – both offering good meals. The problem is, these establishments that cater to the bareboat charter crowd, and to a lesser extent the crewed gullet charterers, fill the good anchorages with their mooring balls. They then station men in dinghies whose job it is to convince you to take one of their moorings at no charge. In these bays there are no free lunches or dinners for that matter and as soon as your lines are secured, the inevitable question arises: "Will you be eating in our restaurant tonight?";

 In our case, we declined the offer of the mooring, dropped our own anchor, took a line to the east side of the bay, and after securing ourselves, the gentleman, Hassan, returned to invite us to his restaurant. I politely declined on the truthful grounds that we’d just provisioned the boat in Marmaris. Without missing a beat he replied "In that case, I should have lunch with you." To which I replied "That's a great idea except that my wife is a terrible cook and we wouldn't want to poison you.

Simi town

A gentleman to the end, he took the double rejection with equanimity and left with a smile. By the end of the day, no fewer than 10 boats were on moorings with their stern lines tied to the west side of the narrow bay. For the seven-day bareboat charterers, the system is great. But for the budget-conscious long-termers, not so good. We don’t want to be compelled to eat in what are often lovely albeit expensive restaurants, and we'd prefer not to be lined up cheek by jowl with half a dozen to a dozen other boats. We never did find out what percentage of the boats who take the free moorings take dinner ashore.

School in session

The town of Bozburun, around the peninsula and tucked well up the north end of the wide Bay of Yesilova, was our next destination. We again made a valiant attempt to sail the 20 miles to our destination, in no small way motivated by the US $7.50 for a gallon of diesel. However, impatience won over parsimony, as it usually does in Turkey. Not only are the winds fickle, they’re usually from the west, our usual direction of travel, and we motored three quarters of the 20 miles.

Once a sponge diving center, Bozburun now owes its existence to tourism and to the manufacture of gullets. The boat-building facility and the excellent anchorage near the town, the shoreside restaurant, and internet cafe were four reasons to make Bozburun a two-day stop. Jimmy was an unexpected bonus. He came by Feel Free in his 15-foot sailboat bearing a gift of herbs along with an invitation for Turkish tea in his shoreside abode. How all of this was communicated and understood is a mystery as our Turkish and his English are almost non existent!!


Our dentist’s postcard image of one of his paintings

"Feel Free, Feel Free, Sunchaser, Sunchaser" came the call on the VHF radio next morning as we set out for the next port on our itinerary, Datca. It was our good buddies Brenda and Ray with whom we’d convoyed through what we call Pirate Alley in the Gulf of Aden last season en route to the Red Sea.

"We're on our way to Panormittis Bay on the island of Simi -- a lovely Greek isle and the site of a fantastic monastery and a great spot to sit out the expected ‘blow.’ Why don't you come along? We have a lot to catch up on."

"Are you sure it's alright?" I timidly queried, concerned about illegally entering and staying in a Greek port.

"No problem" was Brenda's confident reply.

Graham, Karen, Brenda, Tom and Ray in Egypt

"Well, we'll have good company in the Greek jail if things go sour," I said to Liz as we steered Feel Free toward Simi some 12 miles away. It's that 'rigid policy of infinite flexibility' at work again.”


Brenda, Liz and Karen on a Nile River cruise

Truly, reconnecting with cruising pals is one of the great pleasures of cruising. Although we just met Ray and Brenda in Oman in February of 2007, and cruised together for about three months, it was a pretty intense three months sailing from Oman to the Suez Canal. We shared fears, joys, victories, weather information, fish, books, coffee, dinners, did overland trips together in Eritrea, Egypt, even a Nile River cruise, and more than a fair share of sundowners. Hard to imagine getting to know another couple half as well in any other milieu be it suburbia, work place, or school..

Well, we did rendezvous in Panormittis for drinks and dinner aboard Feel Free, the party going well into the night. After it broke up, Liz commented "Tom, do you realize we've only known those two for six months? It feels more like 20 years!"""

Our plan to hole up in this picturesque boat basin for a few days came to an end the next morning as we sampled the famous monastery bread. "Liz, be careful, there's a stone in my bread!" I cried. "Wait a minute, it's not a stone after all! It's one of my crowns that's popped off." It's Friday morning and if we sail around to Pethi we could walk up the trail and over to Simi town to see if we can find a dentist. So much for our retreat in Panormittis. We were off to Pethi within an hour..

On our approach up the long inlet to Pethi, the distinctive shape and color of Red Herring came into view. Unbelievable! Another pair of great cruising buddies, Kiwis, also from the Indian Ocean class of 2007, though we first met them in Vanuatu six years earlier. Alright, it’s party time again tonight..

After explaining my plight to the Red Herrings, also known as Karen and Graham, they’re game to escort us into Simi town. The catching up began as we ambled along the steep, narrow, cobblestone trail. Eventually we did find a dentist whose office actually doubles as his studio where scores of his oil and acrylic paintings adorn the walls. After cementing the crown in place, not only would he not accept payment, he insisted on giving us no fewer than six large postcard sized prints of his lovely paintings depicting scenes of Simi. When I tried to insist he take payment, his reply was immediate and non-negotiable: "Don't think about it." Quite the introduction to Greek hospitality..

That night, back in the anchorage, it was another late night, this time aboard Red Herring. Not only did we catch up on Graham and Karen's summer cruise through the Greek Islands, we also got to meet their visiting daughter Joanne as well as celebrate Graham's 60th birthday. Talk about good timing..

We departed Simi and Greece the next day, happy in the knowledge we'd see the crews of Sunchaser and Red Herring upon our return to Marmaris.


Bozburun Jimmy