September 16 , 2001 Gaeta, Italy September 3 , 2001 Stromboli: The Lighthouse Of The Mediterranean August 26 , 2001 Cefalu: Another Medieval Jewel August 23 , 2001 Sicily: Land of Lovely Desserts August 15 , 2001 En Route to North Africa August 10 , 2001 Ormeggiatori August 8, 2001 Supermarkets and Amphora August 6 , 2001 Sailing South in Sardinia August 2 , 2001 La Vie en Corsica July 30, 2001 Jonathan Joins Us July 27, 2001 One Sea, Seven Colors July 24, 2001 Say What? July 23, 2001 "Va Bene" July 21, 2001 Venturing Into Italy July 20, 2001 And The Mistral Blew July 18, 2001 The Spell Of Menorca July 12, 2001 Culture And Concerts July 7, 2001 Cha Chas July 6, 2001 Red Dust July 4, 2001 Rare Birds July 3, 2001 Clear Empty Water June 27 , 2001 Quick Friends June 22 , 2001 Reconnecting June 13, 2001 Eastern Hemisphere June 6, 2001 A Weekend in Cartegena May 30 , 2001 A Time Or A Place May 29 , 2001 Several Lovely Sails May 21 , 2001 Free At Last May 25, 2001 On The Hard May 18, 2001 A Boat Again May 14, 2001 Time Warp to Morocco May 03, 2001 Still On Stilts in Malaga

August 2, 2001

Two days ago we motored 10 miles from Sardinia across the Bonifacio Strait to Corsica, bringing us to a new country and another world. We followed the stream of boats to the entrance of the remarkable 1 mile Bonifacio Sound. Almost totally hidden, the harbor is accessed by a narrow slit in limestone cliffs wildly sculpted by the wind and the waves. This harbor (which is described in Homer's "Oddysey") is a magnificent site with the famed Citadelle sitting 250 feet above the azure waters along a narrow promontory.

We tucked into one of only two small calanques (coves) where anchoring is possible, dropped an anchor, backed in and tied lines to rings in the cliffs. A brisk crosswind did not help and it took two tries and an hour, but we were safely settled by lunchtime, which was lucky, since by dinner there were 40 boats tucked into this tiny cove and an unbelievable mess of crisscrossed anchor chains.

We took our little dinghy into the busy port where huge and small motor and sailing yachts, a luxury cruise ship and a ferry crowded the docks. French tourists crowded the streets. The marina area at the end of the sound looked like Block Island on the Fourth of July. It was a zoo. The old town atop the promontory was touristy, but charming and the views were spectacular. We were overwhelmed by the tourists, the tackiness, and the French prices. It was a sight to see, but once was enough.

On the other hand, yesterday spent driving around Corsica was a delicious treat, our trusty rental car taking us far away from the crowds.. Corsica is the most geographically diverse and mountainous of the Mediterranean islands. There are mountains as tall as 9000 feet, covered with sweet smelling maquis, a low, dense shrub, and deep green pines, soaring to pillars of granite. We drove 150 miles on narrow, winding mountain roads with spectacular views of vast uninhabited forestland, through tiny hamlets of rugged stone homes and churches.

"The mountains surged into the sky behind, beyond, above one another, ending in rows of cones and spikes and square topped knobs like gigantic teeth. Their lower slopes, smothered in vegetation, looked uninhabited and impenetrable." Dorothy Carrington in "Granite Island."

Our drive included a leisurely lunch at a mountain inn and then a swim in the fresh, cool waters of a mountain stream with a setting so perfect, Disney could have created it: a bit of beach in the sun, rocks off of which to leap into deep, clear water and the forest shading the softly sculpted boulders. Comfortably crowded with French families, the ambiance was quiet and serene. Being in the mountains is a special treat when one is always by the sea, and the heavy vegetation was a refreshing contrast to arid Spain.

The west coast of Corsica has rocky coves cut out of the mountains which rise in layers from the sea, making many lovely anchorages. Unfortunately, we will have to explore these some other time.