September 16 , 2001
Gaeta, Italy

September 3 , 2001
Stromboli: The Lighthouse Of The Mediterranean

August 26 , 2001
Cefalu: Another Medieval Jewel

August 23 , 2001
Sicily: Land of Lovely Desserts

August 15 , 2001
En Route to North Africa

August 10 , 2001

August 8, 2001
Supermarkets and Amphora

August 6 , 2001
Sailing South in Sardinia

August 2 , 2001
La Vie en Corsica

July 30, 2001
Jonathan Joins Us

July 27, 2001
One Sea, Seven Colors

July 24, 2001
Say What?

July 23, 2001
"Va Bene"

July 21, 2001
Venturing Into Italy

July 20, 2001
And The Mistral Blew

July 18, 2001
The Spell Of Menorca

July 12, 2001
Culture And Concerts

July 7, 2001
Cha Chas

July 6, 2001
Red Dust

July 4, 2001
Rare Birds

July 3, 2001
Clear Empty Water

June 27 , 2001
Quick Friends

June 22 , 2001

June 13, 2001
Eastern Hemisphere

June 6, 2001
A Weekend in Cartegena

May 30 , 2001
A Time Or A Place

May 29 , 2001
Several Lovely Sails

May 21 , 2001
Free At Last

May 25, 2001
On The Hard

May 18, 2001
A Boat Again

May 14, 2001
Time Warp to Morocco

May 03, 2001
Still On Stilts in Malaga

Ormeggiatori -

 August 10, 2001 

Cala Gonone, Sardina

Harbors of refuge are few along this part of the east coast and we sailed close hauled for over 9 hours to find protection in Cala Gonnone. We came into this tiny manmade harbor with trepidation. The description in the pilot book was not promising. But we found the quay transformed by a local cooperative which leases the space.

The ormeggiatori (literally meaning the people who handle lines, fueling, docking etc) wearing bright yellow shirts zipped around the harbor in inflatable boats. They greeted each arriving boat. One of them leapt aboard Dovka, two other went to the berth and they handled all the lines for our mooring. The system is ingenious: there are the usual laid moorings with lazy lines ashore which tie to the stern and the port and starboard bowlines, but also there are twenty-five poles on the seawall with a wonderfully intricate system of pulleys and lines attached to gangplanks which are lowered over the boulders shoring up the cement quay, to the bow of the boat, enabling us to get off the boat onto the boulders and then scramble up onto the quay. Each berth comes with gangplank and water hose.

The boats here are all under 42 feet and from many different countries. We are the only Americans, and have been asked several times how we got the boat here. The town is small and quaint, bordering on a wild and undeveloped area of the island, which we are off to explore in a rental car right now.