Anchor Windlasses

Manually hauling in an anchor can be a chore. Rope burn and back strain are potential concerns, unless you have a windlass. Either manual or motor driven, windlasses make anchor retrieval simple and worry free. Boat size is the primary factor in determining which type of windlass you will need. However, there is a windlass for every anchor and rode type.

Manual windlasses supplement your muscle power with mechanical advantage. They are available as either lever-type (back and forth motion) or vertical axis (a circular winch-grinding motion). Lever-type windlasses are generally single speed, and vertical models, like sheet winches, have two speeds: a fast, low-power gear for light loads, and a slower speed with higher power for when the going gets tougher.

Electric windlasses haul ground tackle aboard with a touch of a button or a step on a pedal. They are even available with remote or roving controls for operation from the helm or wherever else you'd prefer to be. An indispensable option on either model is a self-tailing feature which takes in the slack as the line is hauled in and feeds it into the locker below deck.

The pulling power you require from a windlass is easily computed: manufacturers advise the capacity to be three times the unloaded weight of your anchor and chain. Figure four times the unloaded weight if you favor anchoring in rocky waterways or often encounter adverse conditions.

Horizontal or Vertical

Although personal taste and your boating style are factors in choosing either a horizontal or vertical style windlass, much of the decision was made when you bought your boat. The size and configuration of the foredeck, chain locker and forepeak dictate much of the criteria. First, let's look at the differences between the two.

Horizontal windlasses are usually housed in a sealed unit mounted on the deck. The windlass is fitted directly over the hawse pipe and positioned in line with the bow roller to ensure a fair lead. The rode is simply retrieved by the motor-driven gypsy and deposited directly into the chain locker below. Since the rode does not have to make many directional changes, it generally disappears down the hawse pipe neatly without kinking or jamming. With the windlass fitted directly above the hawse pipe, the unit is located further aft on the foredeck than a vertical model that leads forward to the hawse pipe. This is an important consideration if the bow of your boat is very fine or there is not much room to stow the rode very far forward. Because the motor and gearbox are located on deck, they are easily accessible, although more exposed to the elements. The price for on-deck convenience and simplicity is paid for in deck space. The "bread box" design of the horizontal windlass takes up substantially more room than its vertical counterpart. Depending on the model, it can actually stand taller as well, making it an awkward foredeck obstruction.

Vertical windlasses are installed with the motor and gearbox mounted below deck. This leaves the foredeck relatively uncluttered, unless you choose the capstan option mounted above the gypsy. Vertical windlasses are versatile, as the rode can be led from any direction. The rode wraps around the drum/gypsy through 180¡, and leads forward to the hawse pipe and down into the chain locker. Again, the configuration of your boat dictates the feasibility of this system. Since the guts of the windlass are below, the motor may interfere with living space or physical limits of the chain locker. To pay out properly, manufacturers recommend at least 12" clearance from the top of the stowed rode to the top of the locker. Before purchasing any windlass, measure your forepeak to see if everything fits. The windlass manufacturer can provide a plan detailing all the dimensions.

What Type of Rode?

All-rope rodes, most frequently used on smaller boats, require capstan-type windlasses. These are similar in appearance and operation to a sheet winch on a sailboat, the capstan hauls in the line wound around the drum. Self-tailing is a feature that prevents your line from becoming a massive pile of "spaghetti" on your deck, making it particularly useful with all-rope rodes.

All-chain rodes, often favored by larger cruising boats, are handled by all-chain gypsies. A self-tailing feature on a chain gypsy would be superfluous as the weight of the chain peeling off the gypsy will cause the rode to stow itself.

Combination rope/chain rodes are very popular, as even a short length of chain lends a lot of holding power to the anchor and the rope keeps the overall weight of the ground tackle down. Windlasses that handle rope/chain rodes use either a capstan mounted above a gypsy, or single unit with both capabilities. A gypsy is a nautical sprocket; it handles chain through the use of internal pockets which the chain links seat into. Obviously, the chain and the pockets must be identical, or the chain will hang up. Combination models also use a gypsy, but feature an internal groove that handles the rope. Unlike the separate capstan/gypsy configuration, which requires that you set the chain stopper after retrieving the rope and change to the gypsy to haul in the chain, the combination model allows "hands-off" operation. However, most combination models require that the chain be joined to the rope by a splice, as the unit cannot accommodate a shackle. "Splice" isn't a four-letter word-a rope-to-chain splice retains 95% of the strength of the line while distributing the load evenly along its length. Another advantage to the splice is its ability to accommodate the nylon rode's stretch; a lot of line tension could cause the thimble to pop out in traditional thimble/shackle arrangements. Some windlasses however, are designed to accept a shackle.

To simplify the choice between the myriad combinations of rope and chain sizes, many windlass manufacturers offer a few rope/chain models which handle the most commonly used specifications of each. Roughly, windlasses for boats under 40' use 1/2" line with 5/16" chain; for bigger boats, 5/8" rope with 3/8" chain.

Installation

Horizontal windlasses are simple to install. As most models are completely self-contained, holes drilled for the hawse pipe and bolting the unit down is all the drilling necessary. Because vertical windlasses are fitted through the deck, some additional expertise/confidence/gall is called for. Think through the positioning of the system before touching that saw. As mentioned before, you need at least 12" vertical clearance (more is better) from the deck to the chain in the locker to ensure that it pays out properly. Next, position the windlass template supplied by the manufacturer, just aft of the chain locker, on the centerline. If your windlass does not self-tail, position the foot pedal, if you have one, so that you can comfortably tail the rode. Windlasses weigh a lot and handle high loads; you may need to reinforce your deck and spread the load with marine plywood or an aluminum or stainless plate. If you're adding much thickness, advise the manufacturer so they can provide you with longer bolts. Most important, reinforce the chain stopper, which holds the whole load-if it goes, it'll take the windlass with it. Of course, you'll need to apply a silicone sealant around the windlass and foot pedal to prevent leaks. To wire the windlass, run the 12-volt cables from the unit to the breaker panel. The size of the cables is determined by the amp draw and the cable run.

Using the Windlass

Windlasses haul in the rode and lift the anchor off the bottom-they aren't meant to haul the seabed up to the surface. Although your windlass is rated at three times the weight of your anchor and chain, the slop factor takes into account strong wind, current, and recalcitrant anchors firmly dug in. Always use your engine to power up to the anchor. If the anchor is firmly set, belay the rode, set the chain stopper, and work it out under power. Since windlasses can use between 35-200 amps under load, the running engine will help to keep the batteries topped off as well.