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Cruisers Inc
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Cruisers Inc
Subject Topic: Cruisers 3470 Express Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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rburtoncpa
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: November 21 2005
Posts: 2
Posted: July 24 2006 at 16:58 | IP Logged Quote rburtoncpa

In an effort to get this site going more, I thought I'd post up an introduction.  We own a 2002 model 3470 Express that we absolutely love.  We've had only minor issues with the boat, all the types of things we'd expect from boat ownership.

Are there any other Cruiser owners out there?  Tell us about your boat.

 

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Twin Buoys
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 28 2004
Posts: 2
Posted: July 25 2006 at 08:00 | IP Logged Quote Twin Buoys

We also have a 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470.

__________________
2002 Cruisers 3470
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rburtoncpa
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: November 21 2005
Posts: 2
Posted: July 25 2006 at 13:58 | IP Logged Quote rburtoncpa

Where are you at TB?  We're located in Fairfax Station, VA and keep the boat on the Occoquan River.

What engines do you have in your boat?  We have 8.1's, so obviously the gas mileage is keeping us a little closer to home these days.

TB, how is your canvas holding up?  Our screens are starting to develop small tears, and I'm going to need some work done this year to fix the screens and a couple zippers.

Any advice you want to share that you've learned about your boat?

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Twin Buoys
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 28 2004
Posts: 2
Posted: July 25 2006 at 14:53 | IP Logged Quote Twin Buoys

We're located in Deale, MD (on the Chesapeake Bay).  We also have the 8.1 inboard Mercruisers.  Our canvas is holding up just fine.  We bought the boat last year and the previous owner never used the canvas at all (covered slip, full mooring cover, on Grand Lake in Oklahoma).  Also, I tend to use my cockpit cover when closing the boat up for the weekend, during the summer.  This saves the eisenglass canvas portions (front, back and sides) from getting pummeled in the sun all summer long.

I recently had a faulty crank engine sensor on my starboard engine.  It took my mechanic a couple of days to figure it out.  The check engine light had come on here and there, then it got to the point where the engine would not run any more.  It's finally fixed now and from what I heard from my mechanic, Mercruiser is talking about doing a recall on this faulty part.  Just be on the lookout here, if these symptoms start occuring with one of your two engines.

What's your gas mileage with your 8.1s?  I don't have a fuel flow sensor setup on mine, so I'm not sure.  Also, do you have inboards or sterndrives?

 

 



__________________
2002 Cruisers 3470
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ChrisW
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: November 15 2002
Posts: 1
Posted: July 26 2006 at 11:57 | IP Logged Quote ChrisW

Hey guys, I have a 05 340 Express.  Love the boat as well.  Never thought we would out grow a 34 but we now have desires to move up.  If only our finances would support it :(.  We are very happy with the boat though.  We boat on Kentucky Lake.  The boat has 8.1s v drives that get almost exactly 1 mpg anywhere from 26 -31 mph.  Have any of you changed the impellers yet.  What a tight mess that will be. 

Chris

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Propeller Head
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: March 19 2006
Posts: 3
Posted: July 27 2006 at 08:35 | IP Logged Quote Propeller Head

We have a 2000 3375 and boat on Lake Cumberland in Ky.  We have the 7.4 MPI FWC w/v-drives.  We love the boat (would have preferred stern drives since we are in fresh water but the close quarter handling with the v-drives is great).  This has to be one of the most well thought out designs we have found - it meets our needs very well.  We have been very impressed with Cruisers quality and service.

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yoursmineours
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 16 2006
Posts: 2
Posted: August 16 2006 at 14:32 | IP Logged Quote yoursmineours

Hi,

I own a 1987 Cruisers INC Ultra Vee.

Bought it 2 years ago as a project boat, and broke a cardinal rule my wife andI instituted when we started boat shopping of not buying a project boat.

Price was right, and surveyor has complemented me and upped the value for insuracnce purposes for his subsquential 3 inspections from the results of all my projects / work I have done on the boat.

I too as listed above am impressed with the quality of a Cruisers INC.

The boat is coming back far better than my expectations with a lot less of anticipated work. Yes it's a labor of love / therapy for me

I did not know anything about a Cruisers INC, but when my wife saw this cabin configuration, she was hooked.

To ALL,

I would like to use this site to brain storm about Cruisers repairs / upgrades / and be a resource for other Cruisers INC owners to brain storm and discuss their issues alsol.

Looking forward in hearing from people.

Thanks
Mike



__________________
Mike Sanderson
1987 Cruisers Inc Ultra Vee
Boston, MA
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2ndTimer
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: May 10 2006
Posts: 5
Posted: October 08 2006 at 07:54 | IP Logged Quote 2ndTimer

We got a 1999 3075 Rogue last month and really like the layout.  Headroom is better than most boats of the same size.  We have been staying close to home port until we get more familiar with the boat.  Once we get a few things fixed then we'll venture forth further in Puget Sound up in Washington state.  Boy, it's too early for me to even think of projects.  The horn is barely audible, yes we have a portable blaster, bow light needs to be fixed, so only day time jaunts so far, and a couple other things to fix so I guess those are my projects for now.  On our delivery cruise taking the boat about 30 miles to its new home, the wind had kicked up a bit, and after some excitement going over the wake of a huge cruise ship, it was a challenge fighting the wind off the dock to get the boat in its slip.  On a subsequent short cruise, what amazes me is all these people in their 40-45' semi-displacement hulls doing about 16-18 knots and they are pushing a good 4' or more of wake, with little regard for all the smaller boats around them.  I just wish there were more Cruisers Yachts boats our size in the area, but there is only one dealer for this great brand within about 1,000 miles.  We are looking forward to boating on the occassional nicer weekends around here this fall and winter.  Cold season here is relatively mild so we are crossing our fingers on this being the case this year.

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dau
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 10 2001
Posts: 11
Posted: October 11 2006 at 11:37 | IP Logged Quote dau

I owned a 2003 3470 which I just sold. I too had canvas issues about a year ago, I called my customer service rep at Cruisers and they sent me an entire new canvas package, fronts, tops and sides, best part, all free of charge. I even complained that my cockpit carpet was getting damaged from some of the leaks, they sent us all new carpet as well.

My major complaint with the model is the servicability of systems. As a guys who changes his own oil, trying to get the filter off the starboard engine is quite a task. If you ever need to change the filter on the holding tank vent, you literally need to take apart the entire front closet to get to it.

I will say that after 4 years and 200+ hours, issues & problems were minimal.



Edited by dau on October 11 2006 at 11:41


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SeaBreeze,
2006 Searay 340 Sundancer
Buffalo, New York
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tomdel
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 12 2006
Posts: 7
Posted: October 13 2006 at 16:36 | IP Logged Quote tomdel

TO dau-

who did you contact about the canvas. i have a 1986 VEE SPORT CRUISER and i am looking to replace all the canvas on the boat. just replace both engines this summer.
thanks
tom
tomdel38@excite.com


__________________
tom delamar
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tsm
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: March 25 2003
Posts: 3
Posted: October 13 2006 at 21:17 | IP Logged Quote tsm

I just closed today on a unsed 1993 2670 Rouge. Had it out for a sea trial last week, but now we had to put her to bed for the winter. Can't wait till spring. I had a 1984 Celebrity 225V, no complaints about it, just had to move up in size.

Edited by timmotel on October 13 2006 at 21:18


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Tim Motel

1993 Cruisers 2670 Rogue
7.4L Volvo Penta DP/C
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dau
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 10 2001
Posts: 11
Posted: December 12 2006 at 07:29 | IP Logged Quote dau

TomDel,

Try calling Rob Nygren at Cruisers Customer Support or Tim Perizzo in the Cruisers Parts Department, both guys are top notch to deal with.

Rob has even helped me out with a couple things on my new boat which happens to be from another manufacturer.

DAU



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SeaBreeze,
2006 Searay 340 Sundancer
Buffalo, New York
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JeffCooper
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: July 02 2007 at 14:01 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

Another 2002 3470 Express owner signing in.

We bought this boat with 30 hours on her in 2003.   The only option we didn't get was the oak inserts in the stairs (shrug).   She's equiped with 8.1gi Volvo DuoProp Penta's, and for a 14Klb boat she hauls ass, yielding a record of 48mph on the GPS.   She's slowed down a little with the gunk on the bottom, but I still get 44-45 out of her.  

I can't begin to list the items that made us buy this boat, but the size of the head, the layout, storage areas, the HUGE engine box and maintenance access, safety rails and the like are all on top of the list.   Since we got her, I've done all my own work so I know the boat quite well...and the attention to detail boggles - every wire is labeled, every cock and fitting...Clearly the folks at Cruisers actually take these boats out and spend time on them.

There are a few peeves though - those rocker switches at the helm?   I'm always banging them with my knees and turning something on when I shouldn't...like the port windshield wiper, with the walk-thru door open and on top of it... burned up two motors like this. :-)

I also re-did the entertainment system with stabilized satellite, DVD, iPod control, Sirius, extra speakers, two subs and power amps...if anyone wants to see, shoot me an email and I'll send you the schmetics of what I did.   It kicks ass.

My wife and I have four kids ranging from 4 to 16, and we spend every weekend on the boat, with plenty of room for everyone.   My only recent gripe is the cost of gas, so we bought a 21ft bow-rider for those beer and inner-tub runs.  :-)

Great forum!

 



__________________
Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
"Spank Me Too"
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dau
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 10 2001
Posts: 11
Posted: July 02 2007 at 14:07 | IP Logged Quote dau

Jeff Cooper,

If you want the oak inserts, I have them from my boat, took them off before I sold it, thought they were hard to walk on.

You pay the postage and I'll send them to you.



__________________
SeaBreeze,
2006 Searay 340 Sundancer
Buffalo, New York
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JeffCooper
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: July 02 2007 at 14:08 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

Oh, and I second the comment to speak with Tim Perrizo, parts manager at Cruisers.   I just got off the phone with him, as I had to replace all the canvas after a nasty hail storm here.   Tim's been super-helpful since we got this boat...with tips and advice.  Great guy, great company!

__________________
Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
"Spank Me Too"
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JeffCooper
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: July 02 2007 at 14:12 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

Dau -

Done deal - that would be terrific!    I'm at:

Jeffrey.Cooper@hp.com - Shoot me an email and we can work out the details!  



__________________
Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
"Spank Me Too"
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JeffCooper
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: July 02 2007 at 14:54 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

Thought I'd put this here - I've used the following procedures to winterize my 2002 3470 for four years and have never had any problems.   My hope is that someone might find it useful! 

Also - if you have some thoughts, tips and tricks - please share!

Overview

This is my check list for “Winterizing” my 2002 3470 Express by Cruisers Yachts.   The principles are the same for all boats, and all engine configurations, but for the record, my particular boat is powered by a pair of Volvo 8.1L “GXi” 375hp Inboard/Outboards with Volvo “Duo-Prop” out-drives.   My boat also stays in the water year-round, as our marina won’t ice-over due to the implementation of under-water “bubblers”.  This document covers:

 

q    Treating the fuel

q    Visiting the pump out and heating up the engines

q    Running the generator and heating it up

q    Changing the oil in the engines and generator

q    Winterizing the motors

q    Winterizing the generator

q    Winterize the plumbing

1. Engines, Raw-Water Cooling, Power Steering

Four main tasks here – treat the fuel, “Fog”, change the oil, drain the blocks, manifolds and power-steering cooler/raw-water pump. Each engine type (Merc, Volvo, ??) will be slightly different, but they all work the same.   Check your manuals and adapt as needed.

Treat your fuel by follow the directions on a jug of “Stabil” or similar product.   This not only protects your expensive fuel, but also protects you fuel-injectors and carburetors from corrosion and deposits.

Fogging is the process where you introduce fogging oil in to the engine by removing your spark/flame arrestors and spraying this oil in to your motor while it’s running.    Since you’ll be changing your oil, run the engines until they are nice and hot.

Blowing water out of your power-steering cooler and out-drive plumbing is accomplished by removing all possible water below the water-line level. I’ve had good luck attaching 2” ball valves (available at Home Depot) to the raw-water hose attached to the raw-water pumps, and BLOWING the water out with some good old fashioned hot-air.   Strippers from the “local entertainment venue” are probably well adapted to this procedure. 

1.      Add Stabil to your fuel tanks – dose per treatment instructions, and run your engines to work the treatment through your fuel system.   I usually do this just prior to visiting the “honey sucker” to drain the holding tanks.  It gets your engines nice and warm (for the forthcoming oil change) and runs “Stabil” thru the injectors while you drain the nasties from the MSD’s holding tank.

2.      While the engines are running, remove spark-arresters and “fog” each motor with your favorite stuff…I use “Merc’s Fogging Oil”.   Spray this gunk in, and pinch off your fuel-line so that the engine gets the oil and not fuel.   Keep spraying until the engine dies.   When you’re done, your pistons, rings, cylinders and intake are coated with this nasty smelling stuff.

3.      Change your motor oil, filters and water-seps.  My Volvo’s have screw-fittings on the dip-sticks that allowing the use of a Jabsco oil-sucker ($150 from BoatUS/Wests).

4.      When the oil has been removed, replace your oil filters.   A cleaver trick is to use a wal-mart bag around the filter so you don’t dribble oil all over yourself (and in to your bilge).   I also like to put the date and engine hours on the actual filter with a Sharpie, so someone else can tell at a glance when the last oil change was.

5.      Drain your blocks and exhaust manifolds   Volvo’s have all the drains connected to one hose.  Exhaust manifolds have bronze cocks – open them.   Late-model Mercs have blue plugs, and the REALLY new ones seem to have a bicycle type pump, which sounds nifty.   Anyway,  pull all the plugs and let the block and manifolds drains.

6.      Disconnect your raw-water pump inlet hose.   Volvo’s are mounted on the crank.   Like the water heater, there is a water INLET and a water OUTLET.    Volvo’s also have “riser” humps that keep the ocean from rushing in.  

7.      Clamp on ball-valves to the inlets, blow the water out until you hear bubbles under the transom.  Yes, you can do this with your mouth.  J   This blows the water level down below the water-line, and when you shut the ball-valves, keeps it there.   This also blows out the power-steering cooler on the Volvo’s.

8.      Tie wrap the ball valves up high, just in case. 

9.      Done!

2. Sea Cocks

It’s important to clear all the water out of your Sea Cocks, which are nothing more than marine-grade ball-valves.   If a cock breaks, you’re boat could sink.   That’s worse than this simple procedure.  Which we call “Blowing your cocks”.   A quick note:   If I were a salt-water guy, I’d replace every hose-clamp I could find…every year.   Use TWO Marine Grade stainless clamps for every connection below the water line.

1.      Close all your Sea Cocks

2.      Disconnect all hoses from your Sea Cocks

3.      Connect a temporary hose to each Sea Cock

4.      Stick the hose in your mouth, and BLOW (nothing happens)

5.      While blowing, open the cock, and you’ll hear bubbles under your boat – this is good.   Don’t stop blowing!    Don’t worry – you won’t get your lips blown off from the water pressure.

6.      Keep blowing and close the cock.

7.      Done!

Genny

A generator is just an engine that has a mag attached to it….but it’s water cooled (raw-water in most cases).   You want to change the oil and flush the cooling system with “Pink Stuff”.

Since you’ve disconnected the raw-water Sea Cock (above), the cooling for the genny is not there... You’re going to replace it (temporarily, of course) with “Pink Stuff”.  You don’t want to run the genny for more than a few seconds…but the water pump will suck up “Pink Stuff” and shoot it over the side.   This also winterizes the water-muffler of the genny.

1.      Clean out your sea strainer

2.      Fill the sea-strainer with “Pink Stuff”

3.      Attach a temporary hose to the intake side of the generator.

4.      Stick it in a bottle of “Pink Stuff” (or use a funnel).

5.      Start the genny, and have your mate watch the thru hull

6.      When “Pink Stuff” comes out, you’re done.

7.      Don’t forget to change the oil, filter, etc.

8.      Done!

Plumbing

Water Heater

The hot water heater is nothing more than a big tank with an electric element in it to heat the water.   There is a drain, a cold-water INPUT and a hot water OUTPUT.   Cruisers Yachts uses “Quick Connects” to attach the lines to the heater unit. 

Most RV places sell Water Heater By-Pass kits.   If you don’t have one, you should consider the small investment (~$24).   This basically ties the cold and hot system tubes together and by-passes the whole hot-water heater.   The by-pass installs at the inlet/outlet of the heater and uses diverters to “cross-over”.   You want to drain every drop from the heater, but it is recommended that you NOT waste 6 gallons of “Pink Stuff” to fill the heater.

1.      Obtain/Install a Water Heater By-Pass Kit OR connect the cold water and hot water lines together and ensure the connection will hold pressure in the water system.

Note:  If you don’t connect these hoses and bypass the water heater, you should fill your water heater with 6+ gallons of “Pink Stuff”.   You’ll never get all the “Pink Stuff” (or the taste) out of your system, so don’t do it.  As an aside, “Pink Stuff” is based on cooking oil (so I’m told) and is NOT poisonous, but it looks and smells pretty gross.

2.      Turn off the power to the water heater.  Mark it, so you don’t turn it on when the heater is empty, which will zap the heating element.  I have some little tags and use Christmas tree ornament hooks to hang from each breaker that shows that the circuit is closed for the winter.  Sorry.  I’m anal.

3.      Drain the water heater in to the bilge and leave the drain valve open

Fresh Water System (Pump and Fixtures)

Overall, this procedure allows you to pump fresh water out of your water system and replace it with “Pink Stuff” utilizing the fresh water pump to replace fresh water with “Pink Stuff”.    Any fresh water left in the lines, pump, or fixtures will freeze and potentially crack/break your system.   As pressure must be maintained for the system to work (and provide running water), this is bad news…particularly when Mr. Murphy lives on boats, and you know the line that breaks will be completely inaccessible.

1.      Drain all the water from your fresh-water tank and shut the pump off (fresh water breaker)

2.      Pull the seat cushions from the aft cabin to allow access to the pump and filter.

3.      Disassemble the feed from the water tank to the pump (under port-side seat)

4.      Clean out the water filter there, and make sure it's dry

5.      Attach a length of hose to the intake of the pump (a ½” NPT female barbed fitting with plastic hose works well and screws right on to the pump).

6.      Stick the hose in to a jug of "Pink Stuff".   A funnel is also helpful, which allows gravity to assist in priming the pump.

7.      Get your mate to watch and have a few of extra gallons opened and ready. 

8.      Turn on the pump and ensure the supply of “Pink Stuff” is sufficient to re-pressurize the system and the pump kicks off.

Note:  This may take up to three gallons, so be ready to keep feeding the thirsty pump!

9.      Start with the shower (furthest away from pump) and run each fixture until “Pink Stuff” comes out.   Each time you run a fixture, more “Pink Stuff” will be ingested in to the system.   Keep feeding the system as to not introduce air in to the system.

Note:  Your mate will be swapping bottles of “Pink Stuff” at a high rate of speed!

10.  Don't forget fresh-water wash-downs (we don’t do fresh-water washdowns here in Colorado, but we do do RAW water – see below).  Cockpit wet-bar, and anything that is fed from the fresh-water system.

11.  Once you’ve run every fresh-water fixture in the boat, the system is loaded with “Pink Stuff”, and won’t freeze.

12.  Almost done!  Leave the “Pink Stuff” connected!

Head

1.      Visit the pump out and empty your holding tank…Of course, you’ve already DONE that prior to winterizing your engines, right?  Rinse it out several times with a garden hose and get as much goop out as possible.  Suck it dry!

2.      With the “Pink Stuff” still hooked up to the fresh water system, flush the head a few times until “Pink Stuff” flows.   It’s actually GOOD to flush the “Pink Stuff” – it lubricates the duck valves, vacuum pump, macerator and all other internal components.   And of course, keeps things from freezing.

3.      My head has a ball valve for the water intake.   To keep from continually using the “Pink Stuff” up, close this valve. 

4.      Leave some “Pink Stuff” in the bowl

Note:  In the winter, you can (in a pinch) use the head.   Just pour in the “Pink Stuff”, do your business, and flush.  Do NOT turn on the fresh water system or attempt to “add water” by opening the head bypass valve.  Emergencies only!

Air Conditioning/Heating

Your AC/Heat is a raw-water pump too.   Since you’ve already blown your cock (haha!), you’re going to follow a similar procedure to pump “Pink Stuff” thru the AC unit until it goes overboard.  AC equipment (Sea Cock, Raw-Water Pump, etc) is under the floor at the bottom of the Companion Way ladder.

1.      Clean out your sea strainer and drain all water (7/16 wrench on the bottom)

2.      Attach a temporary hose (7/8th ID) to the inlet side of the AC with a funnel on the end

3.      Fill with pink stuff

4.      Turn on the AC and have your mate watch the thru hull and be ready to pour more pink stuff

5.      You’ll hear the water pump turn on – it’s right there.

6.      When “Pink Stuff” comes out the side of the boat, you’re done.

Note:    We tend to visit the boat all winter and run the heat year-round.   We’ve got this heater-winterization thing down to a 2 minute drill.  When you’re done, make sure the system is ready to run.   When you come down in January and are freezing to death, open the cock and fire up the heat.   Obviously re-run this procedure each time you ingest water in to the system.

Miscellaneous

  1. While you were working on your AC, did you clean out your shower sump pump?  It’s a nasty job, but you’ve got do it.   During the actual boating season, pour nice smelling Mr. Clean down the drain of the shower which will clean out the hoses, and fill the sump.   This will keep your boat from getting really, REALLY smelly from rotting hair balls and soap-scum.  In the winter, fill it up the sump with “Pink Stuff” and trigger the pump until “Pink Stuff” squirts out the side (but clean the sump up first).

  1. Pour “Pink Stuff” in your drains (clean them out too – as above)

  1. Clean your bilge(s) and dry them completely.   A clean bilge is a happy bilge.  A wet/dry vac is handy.

  1. Wash-n-wax the whole boat – either in the winter or spring (or both).

  1. Remove anything that might collect mold, mildew, or other stinky stuff

  1. Did you tag circuit breakers for things like Fresh Water, Head, Macerator and things that you might turn on that are now loaded with “Pink Stuff”?

  1. As mentioned throughout this document, keep some pink stuff handy.  You can use your boat all winter long if you are careful with the water system.

Supplies/Tools

  1. A couple of cases of Pink Stuff.   I find that 12 one gallon bottles gets me winterized and leaves enough to re-winterize the heat and flush for those emergencies.
  2. StaBil
  3. A good set of combination wrenches and screw drivers
  4. An Oil Sucker – Recommend the higher-priced Jabsco unit.
  5. Oil Filters.   Chevy blocks almost all use FRAM PH30’s, but read your warranty and make sure you won’t void it by using a third party.  Same with oils. Grab a filter for your genny as well.  
  6. A couple of cases of motor oil
  7. The Volvo 8.1L GXi’s take 9 quarts EACH
  8. The Volve 5.7L GSi takes 5.5 quarts
  9. The Generator takes 1.44 quarts
  10. A fine selection of rubber and/or plastic hose is handy – 1/2” 3/4” and 7/8” will probably fill the need.
  11. A couple of funnels!
  12. Bring jugs for used oils and such (empty pink-stuff jugs work too!).  Drop the oil at the local auto parts store. 
  13. Fogging oil
  14. WD-40 (or liquid wrench, or??)
  15. Tons of rags and cleaning supplies

 



Edited by JeffCooper on July 02 2007 at 14:57


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Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
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csavage
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Joined: February 29 2008
Posts: 3
Posted: February 29 2008 at 11:03 | IP Logged Quote csavage

 Hi - All you fortunate 3470 owners, we are looking to buy a 2001 or 2002  preferably with I/O and the "U" shaped galley set not the booth type.  - we fell in love with the boat last year - we live in Toronto Ontario Canada right on Lake Ontario.  We currently have a 2004 Four Winns Vista 288 which we love but want to make one more more up so we can have more room for kids and grandkids to stay onboard.

If anyone knows of someone wanted to sell or trade down let us know. 

thanks



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dau
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 10 2001
Posts: 11
Posted: February 29 2008 at 11:46 | IP Logged Quote dau

Check out Mid-River Marina in Buffalo and Smith Boys Marina in Rochester, I saw on yachtworld that the both have one for sale, not sure what engines.

 



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2006 Searay 340 Sundancer
Buffalo, New York
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csavage
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: February 29 2008
Posts: 3
Posted: February 29 2008 at 12:12 | IP Logged Quote csavage

thanks I'll take a look.  money is tight so looking for a good buy.

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JeffCooper
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Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: February 29 2008 at 12:44 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

Maverick has a PM

__________________
Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
"Spank Me Too"
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csavage
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: February 29 2008
Posts: 3
Posted: February 29 2008 at 13:17 | IP Logged Quote csavage

new at this - what is a PM??

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JeffCooper
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 7
Posted: February 29 2008 at 14:11 | IP Logged Quote JeffCooper

PM=Private Message.   :-)

If for some reason you didn't get it, email me at jeffrey.cooper@hp.com and I'll fill you in.  :-)



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Jeff Cooper
* 2002 Cruisers Yachts 3470 Express

*2000 Caravelle Interceptor 212

"Spank 'n Skweeze..Again?!"
and
"Spank Me Too"
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