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Bluewater Yachts
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Bluewater Yachts
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Sonja Lowe
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Admin

Joined: January 15 2004
Posts: 118
Posted: July 14 2006 at 11:59 | IP Logged Quote Sonja Lowe

Bluewater Yachts Manufacturer's Link: http://www.bluewateryacht.com/

Feel free to hit "Reply" and add any relevant links. Please note, we will delete any inappropriate links.



Edited by Sonja Lowe on January 15 2014 at 09:59


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Sonja Lowe
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Dave Smith
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Joined: August 08 2007
Posts: 8
Posted: August 08 2007 at 14:39 | IP Logged Quote Dave Smith

Any Bluewater owners out there?

 

 



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Bluewater Hopeful
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Jimmy John
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Joined: March 17 2010
Posts: 2
Posted: March 17 2010 at 11:19 | IP Logged Quote Jimmy John

Dave Smith, yes. The vessel and I are on the Upper Mississippi. I am 68
and she will be 35 this year. She is a 40' Bluewater Yacht built in Mora,
MN in 1974-new in '75 at the Chicago Boat Shoe. She was repowered in
2004 along with new fuel tanks and a new interior. New epoxy bottom in
2003. She will last me until I either die or get too old to run her. My
relatively new wife loves boating and the Bluewater also. I am amazed
at the lack of problems that we have with a 35 year old vessel. Boatel
made a great vessel for many years.

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Upper Mississippi River boater
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skipperjon
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: January 14 2010
Posts: 5
Posted: November 12 2010 at 01:27 | IP Logged Quote skipperjon

I'm looking at a 42' or 47'. Anyone out there has first hand
knowledge of one? Gas powered so I'm concerned about fuel
consumption. I know that these boats are capable of planing
speeds but my main goal is range. Going 6-8 knots would be
fine. Any idea of fuel burn at those speeds vs. cruising?
Thanks
John
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Jimmy John
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Joined: March 17 2010
Posts: 2
Posted: November 12 2010 at 11:44 | IP Logged Quote Jimmy John

John, we have a 1974 (new in '75) Boatel Bluewater 40"
Yacht. It weighs 24-26,000 pounds wet. The original
engines were twin Chrysler 360 cu in/250 hp, gas, with two
110 gallon fuel tanks and a 6.5 kw Onan genset. In 2004
we repowered woth twin GM 350 cu in blocks bored out to
383, with special cam, and some other goodies, so now am
driving 300-325 hp per engine. Our travel is on the Upper
Mississippi River so you always have 2-6 mph push either
for or against you on a round trip. We have never
calculated fuel consumption at the 7-9 mph you anticipate
as it is not practical to travel at those speeds for trips of
sufficient distance to accurately determine fuel
consumption, so I can't be very helpful with answering your
direct question. However, on our vessel the fuel
consumption gauge clearly exhibits that the best fuel
consumption rate occurs by breaking onto plane and then
backing down @ 200 rpm (remaining on plane). On our
vessel that is traveling at 3400 rpm and 18-19 mph. Fuel
consumption is about .666 mpg. It was the same on a 1400
mile round trip on the Upper Mississippi with the Chryslers
15 years ago, but the travel rate was 4-6 mph slower.
When I quote these numbers it is with the genset running
(about one gallon per hour) with at least one AC, water
heater, fridge/freezer, etc in operation.

I believe the weight of you Bluewater will make a
difference. When they lowered the center of gravity in the
late eighties, they got much lighter (my bottom hull is 4"
thick), so your 42'-47' may do better.

They are were wonderful and wekk built boats in the 70s
and early 80s, and I am continually amazed at how all of
the electronics continue to operate flawlessly 36 years
later.

Inquire again if I can answer any specific questions.

Jim

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Upper Mississippi River boater
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skipperjon
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: January 14 2010
Posts: 5
Posted: November 12 2010 at 21:54 | IP Logged Quote skipperjon

Thanks Jim. That kind of gives me an idea of what to expect.

John

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iop island time
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 28 2012
Posts: 3
Posted: October 28 2012 at 16:22 | IP Logged Quote iop island time

We're in the process of buying a Bluewater 481 Cockpit Motor Yacht. It's a repo and there's absolutely no literature or info on the systems or where to buy parts. It looks like the company's out of business. Any ideas on where we can get good intel on the boat and it's systems?

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IOP Island Time
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iop island time
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 28 2012
Posts: 3
Posted: October 28 2012 at 16:37 | IP Logged Quote iop island time

Quote: Jimmy John
Dave Smith, yes. The vessel and I are on the Upper Mississippi. I am 68
and she will be 35 this year. She is a 40' Bluewater Yacht built in Mora,
MN in 1974-new in '75 at the Chicago Boat Shoe. She was repowered in
2004 along with new fuel tanks and a new interior. New epoxy bottom in
2003. She will last me until I either die or get too old to run her. My
relatively new wife loves boating and the Bluewater also. I am amazed
at the lack of problems that we have with a 35 year old vessel. Boatel
made a great vessel for many years.


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IOP Island Time
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iop island time
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: October 28 2012
Posts: 3
Posted: October 28 2012 at 16:39 | IP Logged Quote iop island time

Buying a Bluewater 481 Cockpit Motor Yacht. We will be docking at IOP. Would love to get feedback from Bluewater owners!



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IOP Island Time
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Captain Dave We
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 24 2013
Posts: 1
Posted: July 24 2013 at 03:46 | IP Logged Quote Captain Dave We

Proud owner of a 1997 Bluewater 51 Custom series called FantaSea

Liveaboard this boat full time in Bradenton, FL. 

I love these boats!   Looking for one?  I'm a broker...let me help!



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Captain Dave Werning World Class Yacht Sales (877) 901-BOAT
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Caelis1
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 07 2013 at 14:22 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

Happy to find this forum still active. We bought a Bluewater Coastal Cruiser 42 (45 LOA) foot with twin diesels in December. It was in pretty poor shape, but had all of the basics we required, plus seaworthiness. We are gradually restoring her. Although we have the owner's manual and a few other bits and pieces of information, we would like to exchange with owners of similar vessels to find out more, such as lifespan and maintenance of these Detroit Diesels, and if they can be pulled out without destroyoing the yacht. We also have to upgrade the black water tank , but have not yet found a way of getting to it unless we have a tiny 4 foot, 50 pound very agile mechanic, and servicing the plumbing and sewer lines hidden behind fiberglass panels. Need to replace faucets etc but they are sealed within cast fiberglass units with no access panels.
Must say that we are fairly impressed by the yacht's rough water handling. In early spring, we went from Vancouver to Blaine in very rough seas, with wind against current and six foot short waves. Contents tossed about, galley pots and pans strewn about, yacht pitchpoled to about 40 degrees bow to stern and sidewaves slammed into her and we had lots of water inside, but never in any fearful situation. The Pacific Northwest is not the place for a tuppwerware boat, and I am happy to say that our hull is rock solid. No core. Hope to hear from colleagues.


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Patrick de Saint Julien
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stargazer2
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 08 2013
Posts: 2
Posted: August 08 2013 at 12:04 | IP Logged Quote stargazer2

I finally joined the forum!! We have owned a 1978 Bluewater 40' for 7 years now. I have just finished rebuilding the entire boat inside and out. So if anyone has any questions I could problably answer them. We are kind of boat nuts, we just purchased a 1978 Bluewater 45' which will be my next project, and I also own a 1982 Morgan out island ketch which we keep in the Fla Keys along with a 2001 Magregor sailboat which is currently for sale. Once I finish the rebuild on the 45' we will be selling the 40' which will be in about a year or two. So if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

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Barnegate bay, NJ and Florida keys boater
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Caelis1
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Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 08 2013 at 16:03 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

Thanks stargazer2
Your support much appreciated. As above, our 1987 Bluewater Coastal Cruiser bought last December has two Detroit Diesel model 8-2T with about 1950 hours each. They are very dirty, and that is unfortunately their reputation. Impossible to keep a clean bilge. However, we would like to hear from others who have the same engines to improve their health and life if possible. The generator is a Westerbeke BTD 8 and runs reasonably well, but is difficult to get started.
Aside from mechanical, we have some issues with trying to access the plumbing behind the moulded bathroom walls and counters. Due to neglect and calcium, some of the fixtures are clogged and require repair or replacement. How do you get in there? No panels or any other visible way in. Bathrooms seem to be one piece moulded construction.
Also the front bathroom drain and black water piping runs under the shower. As seen from the forward bilge, it is a narrow space (about 10 inches high) and the pipes are about five feet further away than we can reach. How would one get to this without harming the moulded bathroom walls?
Light dimmers and instrument lights at both stations are not functional. I am told that 12 volt dimmers are very expensive. Anyone go through this recently?
Thanks for any support
Cheers
Patrick


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Patrick de Saint Julien
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stargazer2
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Joined: August 08 2013
Posts: 2
Posted: August 08 2013 at 16:34 | IP Logged Quote stargazer2

Hey Patrick thanks for the reply, this is my first forum that i joined so bare with me. As far as the diesels i have 454 ci gas engines in both bluewaters so i can't help too much there. I do have 6.5 diesels in all of my work trucks and most of the soot comes from the rubber connector on the turbo. It does help if you get a new one, but at least on the truck they are around $100.00. As for the sinks, in the 40' I access under the sink and the shower pump thru the cabinet under the sink. A couple of screws and the shelves come out which allows the left side of the cabinet to come out. I hope this helps, I don't know if the 42' is laid out the same. I changed all of our tanks including the black water and we had to go from an 85 gal to a 65 gal which fit thru the door down below. Once again I don't know if your layout is the same. As for the light dimmers I did try a household dimmer (115v) which didn't work. but if you need a dimmer a variable resistor or a reostat from radio shack will work so long as the total resistance insn't too high and it can handle the amperage of the lights. As for the instrument lights you have to find out where they get their supply voltage from, on my boat the positive comes from the nav light switch, but it could come from  the ignition, it should be a purple wire if i remember correctly. Let me know if any of this helps. Don

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Caelis1
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 09 2013 at 15:07 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

Many thanks for your support. I'll take some photos of the bathroom mouldings and post them by next week. We have a cabinet in the bow section head, but it is at eye level, and would not provide useful access to anything if removed. It is pretty well the same in the aft bathroom. Strange that all that space is wasted and inaccessible. The shower drains and sumps for both heads can be reached through bilge doors, but that does not let us reach anywhere close to the hoses and other plumbing.
Thanks for your comment on the rubber hose to the turbo and the dust. I will keep that in mind.
We have another problem with the 6" dia thick rubber sleeve on the starboard exhaust. It cracked recently, and may not be a major issue since it is above the waterline, but I don't like to have lingering problems that can become worse. This pipe section is practically unreachable, being far under the galley counter. I'll have to call in a contortionist mechanic for this. It should be an easy fix, but it is not possible to get two arms in there at the same time, unless you only have about 6' between the shoulder blades. Again, I'll post a photo
I'll have a look at the rheostat issue. I don't think resistance would be high (Ohms) since it is only for the lights on the instrument panel. My electrician was not able to take a guess at the ohm edges (max and min). The current rheostats are rather bulky with heat sinks. There is a separate breaker on the instrument panel for the instrument lights. It would make more sense, as you say, to have the power sourced from the nav lights or the ignition switch.
I had another look at the space to crawl through to get to the black water tank. There are through hull fittings every foot or so on that section of the port side, and the distance is about ten feet away from the bilge access trapdoor. The bilge area itself is about 20 inches high, but there are stringers. While the bilge access trapdoor is wide enough, you have to be a non-clautrophobic tiny person to be able to wiggle betweem the through hulls, over two stringers, within the wall section of the hull on port side, squirm by the 13" space left by the water heater. I have been thinking of cutting through the walk around section of the port side deck from above and changing everything from there.
More later

BTW Gas here is about $6.50 a gallon. Not a best choice for economical propulsion. Diesel is a bit less, but provides more performance, though maintenance is a b&^%$





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Patrick de Saint Julien
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terry f
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: November 10 2006
Posts: 1
Posted: August 12 2013 at 12:19 | IP Logged Quote terry f

i OWN AN 89 42 FOOT GAS POWERED BLUEWATER BUT YOUR HEAD SOUND LIKE MINE.  i CAN ACCESS MY SINK LINES & WASTE LINES BY REMOVING THE WALL HEATER IN MY STATE ROOM.  STILL A TIGHT FIT BUT POSSIBLE (I'M A SMALL FELLOW.  hOPE THIS HELPS 

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Caelis1
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Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 14 2013 at 11:29 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

Thanks Terry. I looked at this after your post. We must have a diofferent layout. Our heater A/C outlet is on starboard, but the bathroom is on port. Has solid wall behind on one side where MBR doors are attached, hull on the other, and shower made of solid (not sectional) fiberglass on the other.I'll try and posy photos later. Cheers

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Patrick de Saint Julien
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Caelis1
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Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 16 2013 at 19:08 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

Finally, here is the link to the photos of the heads. Hope someone can figure out a way to get access to plumbing and to replace or repair faucets etc.
Cheers
Patrick
https://plus.google.com/photos/103000044895805311891/albums/ 5912856622155283937


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Patrick de Saint Julien
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Caelis1
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Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: August 21 2013 at 17:30 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1


That post and pictures did not turn out as expected.  Let's see if this works any better
The images show the boat heads with no access panels. To remove the stove which is located just behing the aft head would be a major piece of work, and then we don't know if there is access to the sink from behind there. As you can see here, there is only about 10 inches of height under the forward head and the bits and pieces that we need to work on are about six feet away.
Any suggestions?


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Patrick de Saint Julien
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Caelis1
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Joined: August 07 2013
Posts: 7
Posted: September 16 2013 at 19:22 | IP Logged Quote Caelis1

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gs95h53jgqfs1n8/bFV-emwO8H
Let's see if this link to images works. Last week, we pulled the stove out to repaia a major exhaust problem, and still, there was no opening to access under the sink in the bathroom. Any help appreciated


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Patrick de Saint Julien
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