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Glastron
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Glastron
Subject Topic: Volvo 230B Overheating Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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waubesabeach
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Joined: July 13 2006
Posts: 4
Posted: July 13 2006 at 16:57 | IP Logged Quote waubesabeach

I own a 1993 17' Glastron I/O with a Volvo 230B engine, which I run on the chain of lakes in Madison, WI.  Over the past 4 years it has been developing an over heating problem, but only when the boat is on plane, or running over 2500 RPM.  The sea water cooling system and the internal cooling system both work with the heat exchanger to provide cooling for the engine.   I've replaced the impeller and the thermostat and made sure that the water filter is free from debris.  The sea water system appears to be circulating water, and  the internal system seems to be circulating coolant.  However, it is hard to determine if either is circulating the correct volume.  My research thus far points to the heat exchanger, which may be partially clogged with sand, rust and debris.  Am I headed in the right direction?  Could there be other causes for the overheating? 

Edited by waubesabeach on July 13 2006 at 17:05


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1993 Glastron I/O Volvo 230B
Madison, WI
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rwidman
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Joined: December 30 2002
Posts: 17
Posted: July 13 2006 at 18:46 | IP Logged Quote rwidman

Could well be the heat exchanger.  Also, there is a waterpump on the engine that could fail.  I would suspect the heat exchanger first, though.

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Ron
soon to be Camano Troll
Glastron GS249
North Charleston, SC
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waubesabeach
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Joined: July 13 2006
Posts: 4
Posted: July 14 2006 at 12:41 | IP Logged Quote waubesabeach

Thanks for your reply, Ron.  I guess my next step is to remove the heat exchanger and bring it to a local radiator shop for cleaning.  

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1993 Glastron I/O Volvo 230B
Madison, WI
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rwidman
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Joined: December 30 2002
Posts: 17
Posted: July 14 2006 at 13:24 | IP Logged Quote rwidman

Quote: waubesabeach
Thanks for your reply, Ron.  I guess my next step is to remove the heat exchanger and bring it to a local radiator shop for cleaning.  

I'd say that's a logical next step.   



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Ron
soon to be Camano Troll
Glastron GS249
North Charleston, SC
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KB9VGD
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Joined: April 18 2007
Posts: 4
Posted: April 18 2007 at 15:26 | IP Logged Quote KB9VGD

I have the same model, year and problem. How did it turn out? Was there a bunch of crud in the heat exchanger?

Gary

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waubesabeach
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Joined: July 13 2006
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Posted: April 19 2007 at 12:20 | IP Logged Quote waubesabeach

Gary,
If in fact your boat is overheating the same way mine was, have your heat exchanger professionally flush out and your problems will be solved!  I can't tell you how happy I was when I took my boat out, set her up on plane and watched the temp guage stay right at normal operating temperature.  Skiing, tubing and high speed cruising can once again be enjoyed without the fear of overheating and damaging the engine.

Removing the heat exchanger yourself is a lot simpler than it looks and will save you a lot of money.  Any radiator shop in your area can flush it out for you.  I think I paid around $30.  Even if it turns out that the heat exchanger isn't your problem, flushing out the heat exchanger is a good idea anyway.

Best of luck and let me know how everything turns out.

Jeff

P.S.  I don't know if the overheating had anyhting to do with this, but shortly after I fixed the overheating problem by having the heat exchanger flushed out, the timing belt broke.  Luckily, I was cruising at no wake when it broke, other wise it would have probably been new boat or at least new engine time.  Since your half way there anyway, I would suggest at least checking your timing belt for signs of wear, or cracks.  If your boat is the same year as mine, I would say replace it, if you haven't already. 




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1993 Glastron I/O Volvo 230B
Madison, WI
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KB9VGD
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Joined: April 18 2007
Posts: 4
Posted: April 22 2007 at 21:36 | IP Logged Quote KB9VGD

Hi Jeff;

Thanks for the information, it sounds like the ticket to making this thing run right again. When you removed the heat exchanger did you remove the core from it or did you take the entire assembly to the radiator shop? I have the entire unit on the workbench right now.

Thanks for the advice on the timing belt also. I took a good look at mine and it looks like it would be a good time to replace it also. It was a bit of a challange to find those timing marks before I removed it, but found them and the belt is now off. I also removed the carb for a good cleaning. the gas was a bit sour and there was alot of garbage in the float bowl and accel. pump housing. One thing I've found out is there is no fuel filter on this boat, very strange.

Since I've got this boat "torn apart" right now, looks like time for new plug wires, cap, and rotor too.

Thanks again for the help!

Where did you get your new timing belt from?

Gary

 

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waubesabeach
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Joined: July 13 2006
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Posted: April 24 2007 at 15:34 | IP Logged Quote waubesabeach

Gary,
My local Volvo Penta mechanic took care of the heat exchanger cleaning for me, so I'm not sure if he just brought in the core, or the entire unit.  I'd say bring in the entire unit though. 

I also bought the timing belt through my local dealer, but I think I still have the original packaging for the timing belt.  I'll get whtever info I can and forward it to you.  A good mechanic friend helped me replace the timing belt, so I know what you mean about finding the timing markings.  He also showed me the trick about pulling the spark plug and feeling for the puff of air to make sure we were starting on the right cylinder. 

No fuel filter, I know, very strange.  The only place I haven't checked is right at the fuel tank, but that would require tearing up the floor.  They wouldn't make us do that, would they?

Since you're replacing the cap and rotor, do yourself a favor and replace the condenser, too.  I got stranded and had to get towed in 3 times, because I refused to believe that the condenser was my stalling problem.  The reason I didn't replace it right away was because it's a bear to replace.  Do it.  It'll save you a ton of frustration in the future. 

Jeff



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1993 Glastron I/O Volvo 230B
Madison, WI
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KB9VGD
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Joined: April 18 2007
Posts: 4
Posted: April 24 2007 at 20:21 | IP Logged Quote KB9VGD

Hi Jeff;

I don't have a Volvo-Penta shop around here, the local marina that did service this boat for the original owner did a VERY poor job of maintaining it.

I pulled the core out of the heat exchanger and found a lot of calicum buildup on the closed water side of the fins. I was suprised at the amount of buildup, I didn't think an antifreeze solution would do that. Anyways, it is going to a radiator shop in Elkhorn this week. Once it is all back together, I'm going to give the engine a good cooling system flush.

There is no fuel filter on the fuel tank. I pulled the cover over the tank sending unit and removed the sender and the fuel pickup tube from the tank to check for any blockage. There is a check valve in-line at the top of the tank. All hose are being replaced and a filter wil be added just before the fuel pump.

Was checking the condition of the lower unit and see that the bellows for the u-joints has cracked and split open. That will be a fun one to replace. I think I might as well replace the exhaust and water hose back there while I have the unit removed and inspect the u-joints.

Looks like a big parts order will be going in for this rascal. I'm thinking of ordering from an outfit called Marine Parts Express. www.marinepartsexpress.com

Thanks for the information, I'll let you know what happens!

Gary (down in Racine Co.)

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KB9VGD
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Joined: April 18 2007
Posts: 4
Posted: May 20 2007 at 11:53 | IP Logged Quote KB9VGD

Here is an update on my progress of the over-heating problem. I did remove the heat exchanger and removed the copper core from it. The inside of the unit appeared to be pretty clean, but the exterior side (antifreeze side) was coated in the very thick calcium buildup. The entire inside of the exchanger unit was found to be this way also. I took the core to a radiator shop for cleaning and they ended up having to sandblast it to get it clean. The shop owner asked me how old the antifreeze was in the boat and I told him it was probably the original from 1993. I was told that it must be changed every two years because the additives in it break down after that time. Another big ďno-noĒ is using tap water to make the 50/50 solution. You are adding the dissolved minerals in your tap water to your cooling system. Only use distilled water to make the 50/50 mix or buy the premixed.

 

Iíve rebuilt the carb, it was a total mess inside the float chamber and the accel pump housing. Iíve cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel line and added a fuel filter. This boat did not have any fuel filter on it.

 

Replaced the timing belt, it was worn but now was a good time to do it. The trim motor wasnít working and had to be fixed/cleaned. The bellows for the u-joints on the stern drive was rotted and cracked open so this required pulling the drive off the back of the boat. I found there was some pretty bad corrosion on the drive and the sea water connector that connects to the hose feeding the raw water pump was really in bad shape. This might be part of my running hot problem also. I had noticed that last time I ran the boat with the drive lowered into my water tank (a cut-off 55 gal plastic drum) that it only seemed to have half of the water flow that it should have had. Also found a broken wire connection between the tilt cylinders. Iíve also ordered some new anodes for the drive. They were zinc but going to switch to magnesium for fresh water use only.

 

The rest of my ordered parts should be here by Tuesday and then I can finish putting it back together, adjust the carb to get it running and then do the cooling system flush.

 

Iíll post more as this ďlittle projectĒ continues. Iím sure glad Iím doing this myself, Iíd hate to see the bill Iíd be handed from a marina for doing all this!

 

 Gary - KB9VGD

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