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Chris Craft
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums » Chris Craft
Subject Topic: Catalina Owners Post ReplyPost New Topic
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boatman66
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 12:04 | IP Logged Quote boatman66



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1986 294 catalina twin 350's
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boatman66
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 12:09 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

OK NEW PAGE AS YOU CAN SEE I WENT WITH BLUE ON THE SIDE PANELS TO MATCH THE REST OF THE BOAT I LIKE IT NICE AND SOFT. SORRY WOOD GUYS--I EVEN BLUED THE CC LOGOS THE RUB RAIL IS ANOTHER STORY

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diveryates
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 13:35 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

 

Nice work Tom. I wasn't sold on the plastic idea, but I've come 'round... This will really look good. Kinda modernizes the boat's vibe- very cool! The color scheme is very coordinated- nice... 

What is the dinged, whitish material on the hull in the below-the-waterline-LEDs photo?

On the floorboards: no, the boards are not hinged. The floorboard parimeter locks them in well enough. To clarify" the 'U' alunimum detail, they are lag-bolted on the under sides to reinforce/buttress the new-cut floorboards. 

Roy



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Ca
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floater251
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 13:48 | IP Logged Quote floater251

Ok Boatman... I must say.... with the striping and the graphics on the dash.... the blue looks......well, better then the wood would. THERE, I SAID IT.  Really, they look better than i thought. as Diver said, it modernizes her. Great job! I would love some info on the steps you took and the materials to get to that point.

Floater, Jim



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investment or insanity? previously owned by a
1982 251 catalina, monroe n.c.
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Ray 251
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 14:00 | IP Logged Quote Ray 251

66: I didn't think I'd like the plastic either but it modernizes it nicely. Looks Cool.

Nauti: I will check out your guy. $450-wowee!! Thats the price of peace of mind..

Diver: Thanks for the clarification. Heres what I have. Its fine with me. Just gonna clean it up a little, maybe hinge it. It looks like a section of a real floor shaped to fit.



Edited by Ray 251 on October 10 2009 at 14:01


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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 17:47 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

Nice work boatmann, the blue looks real good, I like it better that padded/vinyl...I still ike the wood but the plastic gives it a nice touch...ties all the trim in together.

No need for maintaining bottom paint when you are on a lift - huh?!?!

Up here it is a $500 per year cost at the boatyard, NY law does not allow DIY-ers apply bottom paint in commercial yards, sounds like a ploy to me...but it is worth the $ to not have to deal with that chore.

 

Tom



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Nauti Cat in NY
1985 Catalina 280
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floater251
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Posted: October 10 2009 at 18:44 | IP Logged Quote floater251

Ray! That floor!!!!!! P L E A S E....dont ever cover that up!!!!!  some serious sanding then several coats of spar!

Floater



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boatman66
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Posted: October 11 2009 at 09:18 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

THANKS GUYS THE SIDEBOARDS ARE 1/2" MARINE PLYWOOD,SEALED  WITH FIBERGLASS RESIN THEN THE SURFACE SIDE HAS A PRODUCT CALLED 1/8" PVC SIGN MATERIAL (SIGN GUYS USE IT TO APPLY THEIR GRAPHICS BECAUSE IT IS FLEXIBLE AND HAS A VERY TIGHT SURFACE-POROSITY?)THE GRAPHIC VINYL STICKS TO IT REALLY HARD--IT IS GLUED TO THE WOOD/FIBERGLASS SURFACE (HAVE TO USE A NON HEAT PRODUCING GLUE OTHERWISE THE PVC WILL DO STRANGE THINGS)SO I USED A REGULAR MASTIC TYPE GLUE AS IN FLOORING--TOOK A WEEK TO CURE,DROVE ME NUTS WAITING, HAD WEIGHTS ETC ON IT,THEN THE PAINT -INTERLUX BRIGHTSIDE POLYURETHANE #4241 SAPHIRE BLUE APPLIED WITH A SPONGE TYPE ROLLER THEN TIPPED WITH A TIPPING BRUSH,(LIKE A CAMEL HAIR TYPE,NOT A CHEAPIE)TO GIVE IT A REALLY SMOOTH FINISH WE WILL SEE HOW IT HOLDS UP-- THE SPEAKERS ARE ENCLOSED FROM BEHIND IN WOOD BOXES ALS FIBERGLASSED AND HAVE VENT HOLES FOR PRESSURE. AND YES BEING ON A LIFT DOES SAVE ON BOTTOM PAINT BUT AS YOU CAN SEE SALLY NEEDS A REALLY GOOD BOTTOM JOB VERY EXPENSIVE I AM SURE BUT FOR NOW SHE IS GOOD TO GO.YOU CAN SEE SHE IS CHIPPING LAYERS OFF BUT AS FAR AS I CAN TELL NO BLISTERS..I DID HAVE HER BOTTOM PAINTED TWO YEARS AGO..THE ABLATIVE STUFF WHICH HAS NOW WORN OFF SO THAT DECISION IS IN THE NEAR FUTURE..WE SPLASH TONIGHT TO CHECK THE LITES AND FOR LEAKS WILL POST PIX IF I CAN RAY FLOATER IS RIGHT THE FLOOR IS TOO NICE TO COVER UP!! 

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pop-pop
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Posted: October 11 2009 at 09:37 | IP Logged Quote pop-pop

boatman
Do you fish at night on your boat and if you do does the lights on the hull help bring up the bait fish?

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4 BELLES

                            "78" CC-Catalina 251
                                   
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diveryates
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Posted: October 11 2009 at 21:29 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Ray,

have to go with Tom on this one. That floor looks like quality work!  The floorboard on our 280 is a marine 3/4"ply. Came carpeted from the factory...and that was terminal when we bought her.

Tom, Sorry man, that bottom gives me pause...However, with 5/8 inch solid fiberglass, maybe in the final analysis, it's really not a risk issue although speed might be affected. Impact would be a bigger worry and that probably has nothing to do with the jelcoat.

Guys,  have to go out on a limb here:

Surveys are valuable/necessary yes...on larger, more complex boats. To do a proper survey, it needs to be hauled to check the bottom...in my opinion and in this case, the main reason for a survey on a Cat (to check the bottom). I did the inspection on Lorelei following some preperation and found her satisfactory. Stuff like testing lights, horn, galley, upholstery, bulge and performance has extensive info availible that can help do a pretty thourough inspection.  Engine's are traditionally not part of a survey...a specialist is needed (at additional cost). This view is in referance to the Cat 280 and 251 models! They are simple vessels with unparalled interor access without a lot of bells and whistles. Preperation for a personal going over and a test cruise will in my opinion approach what a surveyer will see. A personal inspection for blistering/delamination is certainly doable on a hull. It is also rare on CC's and in the opinion of our boatyard, lesser of a problem on power boats in general. For some reason, bottom problems are more common on sailboats. In any case, blisters can be spotted if the boat is hauled and the bottom allowed allowed to dry for 24/48 hours. Last haulout, I noted some minor blistering along the waterline from UV exposure- none underneath.

The other thing that bugs me about surveys I've read is page after page of disclaimers...what's the point if a surveyer does that? Litigous America made-um do that and it diminishes a survey's credibility- kinda like that guy at the end of a commercial who speaks at a thousand words a minute and no one understands a thing except that the original blurd has holes in it. Ever see those new drug ads?  I'm sure there are legion surveyors out there who would argue a contrary view-in the case of our simple, heavily built Cats, perhaps there's room for some slack...or a price break?

Diver



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Ray 251
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Posted: October 11 2009 at 23:44 | IP Logged Quote Ray 251

Floater: 66: Diver: I said I LIKE my floor. Its unique. I'm gonna sand and spar per floater is all. One of the easier jobs to do...!

Diver: What your saying about the Surveys applies to very knowledgeable people with years of boat experience. I wouldn't trust myself at this stage of the game where fiberglass and hull integrity is concerned. All the other systems I'm fine with. I don't know what delamination looks like. I also don't know how to detect if the underlying wood is saturated (read that on these posts..) The money is worth it to me to have the peace of mind to know the motors not going to rip out of its mounts at speed, the boats not going to burn down from improper wiring and my thru-hulls are solid.

I just realized that all you Southern and Western guys haul at your leisure, do some maintenance, maybe some upgrades, pet projects and then splash again. Up here in latitude we gotta cram all our (DIY) repairs in before it gets too cold and then as soon as it gets a little warm in the spring. Then we hurry up and use the boat for the summer hoping nothing breaks!



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boatman66
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Posted: October 12 2009 at 08:27 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

POP POP DON'T KNOW IF THE FISH ARE GONNA COME TO THE LIGHTS YET,YES I WANT TO DO NIGHT FISHING DOWN THE ROAD--SO TO SPEAK--DIVER ARE YOU CONFUSING ME WITH FLOATER??(HE IS TOM) (I AM PETER) AKA 66 :) NO BIG DEAL-YEH THE BOTTOM IS UGLY-- SO FAR NOT A REAL DETREMENT TO THE OPERATION AND  DON'T REALLY PLAN ON COLLIDING ANY TIME SOON BUT YOU NEVER KNOW--THE ONLY WAY TO DO MY HULL IS TO HAUL-USE THAT TOOL THAT SHAVES THE CRAP OFF RESAND- REFINISH AND REPAINT AND THAT'S A LOTTA JINGWA THAT THIS OL BOY DOESN'T HAVE AT THE MOMENT- WHAT WOULD BE NICE IS A BOAT YARD WHERE THEY PULL AND YOU DO THE WORK USED TO BE ONE AROUND HERE BUT WITH ALL THE CHICKEN S**T LAWS ANYMORE THEY ARE A LOST CAUSE.. RAY YEH I USED TO DEAL WITH THAT COLD STUFF,THEN VACATIONED IN FLA 35 YRS AGO WENT HOME PACKED AND NEVER LOOKED BACK I DON'T REGRET ONE MOMENT OF IT--NEED TO PUT YOUR BABY IN A HEATED BARN OR SHED--THEN YOU HAVE A PLACE TO WORK AND HIDE OUT-- 

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diveryates
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Posted: October 12 2009 at 10:51 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Sorry Peter- I got names confused-    I'll try and do better! Svendsen Boatyard is the only yard in the Bay Ayea that allows owners to work on their boats. Seems this sorry state of affairs is nationwide. This on-line form of media is a new experience for me- powerful stuff. It's interesting to experience peoples charictoristics and propensiteis in written form. One advantage of the forum format is the ability to reflect and edit prior to posting...cool.

Ray,

Point well taken- the four seasons do put a premium on time afloat. Perhaps it's possible to remove the floorboards as a project over the winter months before the weather really sets in?

Delamination is detected a couple of ways:  sighting down hulls lines to spot warping or the use of a suitable tapping tool to compare sounds resonating thru the hull. Moisture detection thru stringers is done by direct observation as moisture detection devices do not penetrate cored fibergless stringers (as in our Cats). It usually involves removal of fasteners, visual observation and the use of probes. There are other, more expensive methods too. A common area for core saturation is around windless assemblies as often fasteners are incorrectly installed thru cored areas.

Thank you for pointing out some very valid points concerning surveys.

Diver



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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 12 2009 at 11:08 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

Catalina Owners (regular posters to the forum)

Tom - Nauti Cat

Jim - Floater251

Ray - Ray251

Bill - SuawneeRed

Pete - boatmann66

Roy - Diveryates

? - pop pop

anyone else?



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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 12 2009 at 11:19 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

for me, hiring a surveyor for pre purchase and insurance was the smart thing to do because I become "blind" when it comes to my obsession with boats, especially when the excitement of the purchase is in the mix.  My surveyor inspected the boat on land and during the sea trial.  The motor was not a major concern but he did check out what he could for me, but we both new there were no issues by the way she ran and sounded....you can tell when everything is just right.

Post purchase survey is still someting I do on an ongoing basis on my own.  I have a running list, putting higher priority on the safety, mechanincal and functional aspects (addressed immediately) and the cosmetic items take a back-seat...hence why my cabin is not yet completed...there is only so much money available  

 

 

Tom



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Dewy
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Posted: October 12 2009 at 19:10 | IP Logged Quote Dewy

Ray251

I agree with Floater .never cover find wood.Finish it and show it off.Sorry guys been away to long work and fishing.Landed a 47 lb Reddrum Sunday week ago on 20lb test line on a flounder rig.what. what a fight.Well back to the ole grind



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boatman66
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 09:25 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

AHMEN ON THE MONEY THING FLOATER--I STILL WOULD NOT WANT A BRAND NEW BOAT BE TOO FUSSY OVER IT GETTING DIRTY HURT ETC--  DING THE OLD SALLY AND IT'S OK (WELL NOT REALLY) BECAUSE I KNOW I CAN SREW IT UP AND STILL FIX IT IN MY OWN WAYRIGHT ON DIVER!! THIS IS A GREAT FORUM AND ANYONE WHO GETS INSULTED BY A GUY TRYING TO EXPRESS HIMSELF HERE IS JUST TOO CRITICAL--WE ALL TRY TO KEEP IT COOL AND I FOR ONE ENJOY ALL OF THE GUYS ON THIS FORUM!!AND NOW THERE ARE EVEN MORE COMING ON BOARD GO CHRIS CRAFT

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Berg
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 10:00 | IP Logged Quote Berg

Diver- as far as the carb goes, I just have a flame arrestor on it at the moment. I thought about using a foam prefilter (off-roading experience) due to the fact that there really is no air "filter" other than a screen. I feel an actual filter would make the carburetor last a little longer due to the fact that it may keep the salt air from getting through the screen. I know the arrestor is needed so I figure the pre-filter is the next best thing.

Boatman- It is amazing how a little paint and side panels with nice seats can change the look of an old boat.
 
Ray- Wow that is a really nice floor! I wish mine had something like that. Have any of you guys used Flexi-Teek? it is basically a rubber floor that looks like teak and can be sanded if it gets scraped or gouged. The color goes all the way through and it has either black or white calking that goes all the way through. It won't crack or split and can be plastic welded together to create a seamless floor. Did i mention it doesn't rot???  One of my friends with his own mobile marine repair business became a dealer here on the Island for it but nobody really seems to want it. It is a bit expensive, probably the reason why.

I went away from the computer for an extended weekend and I have a full page to read on the forum. This is pretty active!


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1983 Chris Craft Catalina 251
1973 Chris Craft Catalina 251 *sold*
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diveryates
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 11:00 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Hi Berg,

A key differance concerning air flow between cars and boats is the rate of flow of the air supply. A car's air environment being subject to a much higher volume of flow and is a dirtier makeup. A boats intake has a passive, cleaner airflow.  CC's engineering was narowly aimed at whatever particulate contamination was injecting abrasives (belt dust) complicated by oil as a partial carrier along with the proximity of contaminated air at the carb intake: a nasty combination. The oil portion, if clean is not an issue and is benificial as a bushing and linkage lubricant. The combination of oil and dust was/is toxic for a carb- hence CC's airducting effort- again, a eliquint, intuitive solution: CC is using air flow distance and gravity to mitigate air contamination. I would also point out that Afloat, air filters are replaced by the flame arresters- filter elements are flamable.  As you probobly know, flame arresters are required Equipment aboard- features designed to make engines endure is'nt- interesting that...     

In my opinion, saltair will have little if any affect on engine air/fuel performance or contamination risk of the internal combustion portion of an engine's function. Cooling, of course is a differant matter and is not the focus of this pow wow.

Roy

 

 



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Berg
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 11:07 | IP Logged Quote Berg

Roy- Those are some words of wisdom. Its nice to know that some engineers are on top of their game, unlike the ones that installed the grease fittings on the front end of my suburban, or lack thereof... I wonder how much cooler underhood temperatures would be in a car if they had coolant jackets over their exhaust manifolds.


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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 11:38 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

As much as I enjoy the vintage Catalinas, if money was not an issue I would have the new Chris Craft 40 Roamer for sure...I would have no problem dealing with any worries, I do not know how much more obsessed I could be with a new boat, I am pretty far over the edge now  they would have to commit me.

I looked into the flexi-teak, was told it is great for exterior applications but they have more suitable and less expensive interior options.  For the amount of floorspace in our Catalinas it may be only a negligable difference in cost over the lifetime of the particular product regarding installation, maintainence, convenience and eventual replacement.

 

Tom



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diveryates
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Posted: October 13 2009 at 11:49 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Berg, Thanks Man- appreciate it...

Car exhaust manifolds are designed to keep engine compartments at close-to operating temps. Underway, all components acheive a sort of temprature equilinbium. Boats w/dry stacks have engine rooms that can get pretty warm.  With 'wet' cooling, engine rooms get warm too, but probably not as much.

What we view as hot, engines 'bask in', except maybe in the Sahera Desert or some such. 

Roy



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Ray 251
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Posted: October 14 2009 at 08:50 | IP Logged Quote Ray 251

Can anyone steer me towards the best product to re-furb pitted crummy Aluminum? Window frames, railing etc..

Its 43 degrees here right now.. sheesh...



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diveryates
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Posted: October 14 2009 at 11:08 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Ray,

Yup,  had to address that aluminum thing coupla years ago. The frames were 'moderately' corroded- looked lousy. I was unable to find a product capible of mitigating the deeper corrosion. I attempted using a mechanical steel brush to simulate a brushed look (while also removing the corrosion) but the attempt had an uneven looking result and access in some places was impossible.  I ended up masking and prime/painting to match the color palet of the wheelhouse/cockpit. Ours is a hardtop so it was a sticky wicket. Masking had to be very accurate and a lot of it was an awkward reach.

If it comes to that for you, I'm thinking painting will be easier with the soft top retracted. 

Diver



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boatman66
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Posted: October 14 2009 at 11:25 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

RAY LOOK ABOVE ON THIS PAGE SEE MY CC LOGOS? THEY WERE BRAND NEW FROM CHRIS PARTS AND BECAME PITTED VERY QUICKLY--SO I RAN THEM OVER A WIRE WHEEL AND PRIMERED THEM (AUTO PRIMER)(REALLY STICKS) AND THEN SPRAY PAINTED THEM NO MORE PITTING!! ON MY WINDSHIELD I ACTUALLY REMOVED THE ENTIRE THING,TOOK IT COMPLETELY APART WIRE WHEELED THE ENTIRE FRAME AND AGAIN PRIMERED AND THEN USED SPRAY CANS OF (GET THIS) REFRIGERATOR EPOXY SPRAY PAINT FROM ACE HDWE!! I USED THE YELLOW/TAN STUFF IF YOU GO WAY BACK ON THESE POSTS THERE ARE PICTURES OF THE WINDSHIELD-- IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD AND HASN'T PEELED CRACKED BUT CAN CHIP IF YOU BAND IT BUT TOUCH UP IS EASY AND IT SURE BEATS THE PRICE OF TOTAL REPLACEMENT I JUST FINISHED DOING THE SEAT SIDEBOARDS AND USED THE SAME TECHNIQUE ON THE CHAIR RAILS PAGE 46 TRY IT I THINK YOU WILL BE PLEASED--66

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Posted: October 14 2009 at 11:40 | IP Logged Quote boatman66

RAY--PAGE 6 HAS A SHOT OF THE SPOTLIGHT MOUNT IT IS AN ALUMINUM PIECE AND HAS THE SAME PROCEEDURE AS THE W/S ETC

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diveryates
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Posted: October 17 2009 at 21:43 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

 

Ahoy gents, spotted this on EBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chris-Craft-Mast-anchor-light -antique-rare_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439ad8af18QQitemZ29 0360700696QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Diver



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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 18 2009 at 19:48 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

Thanks Diver for letting us know about the ebay link, I will need to take some measurements for in front of the windshield.

 

Tom

 



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Berg
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Posted: October 19 2009 at 13:13 | IP Logged Quote Berg

http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/1420321705.html

I hope this link works, boat is in Seaford, NY looks like a great deal! Might be worth making a call on soon for anyone looking for a nice 1984 Catalina 291


Thought you guys might be interested... the ad says:

1984 BEAUTIFUL Catalina 291. Sleeps 6, full galley, stand up head with shower, electronics...brand new camper back, never used, many, many extras. My ex-wife is trying to hassle me and want to sell it before the bitch gets her hands on it. I have over $20,000 invested this year alone, but rather give someone the deal of a lifetime than the bitch get any !!!! make me an offer, you might be suprised. ACESHIGH32469@AOL.COM

Edited by Berg on October 19 2009 at 13:17


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1983 Chris Craft Catalina 251
1973 Chris Craft Catalina 251 *sold*
1967 Glastron Fireflight V-155
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Berg
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Posted: October 19 2009 at 13:20 | IP Logged Quote Berg

ok so the link didn't work. the listing is on Long Island Craigslist in Boats. It is titled

Chris Craft Catalina 291 Flybridge

hope this helps...



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1983 Chris Craft Catalina 251
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1967 Glastron Fireflight V-155
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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 19 2009 at 13:57 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

nice boat...nice ad

same boat as the 280/281 just with a flybridge (and dual stations)

 

I got to go for a ride during lunch break today...bay was flat and the air was crisp.  She was running 4200 RPMs at 28 MPH - SWEET!

 



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pop-pop
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Posted: October 19 2009 at 15:08 | IP Logged Quote pop-pop

Boat link

http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/1420321705.html

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Nauti Cat
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Posted: October 20 2009 at 13:19 | IP Logged Quote Nauti Cat

Another lunch time boat ride...perfect weather!!!

Just don't tell my boss...oh wait, he went with me

 

Northerners...Enjoy it while it lasts!



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pop-pop
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Posted: October 20 2009 at 16:44 | IP Logged Quote pop-pop

Have anyone of you guys changed out your flywheel on your 305's.

Edited by pop-pop on October 20 2009 at 16:45


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diveryates
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Posted: October 20 2009 at 22:31 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Pop Pop,

Nope, not the flywheel. I mistakenly thought I would have to because of a broken gear tooth. Turned out to be a faulty starter. The solonoid would not deploy to its full extend position, causing the gears to miss or mesh incorrectly.  Reasons for removal that I can think of: out of balance, warped, broken tooth, engine rear seal, sheared flywheel bolt.

Diver



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Berg
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 10:09 | IP Logged Quote Berg

pop-pop, I've done it on other boats and trucks but not my Chris Craft. Should be the same procedure anyway, why do you need to change the flywheel? If it is because of chipped teeth, see if you can buy just the ring gear and press it onto your old flywheel. Just get the right one with the correct number of teeth, there should be 2 choices for the chevy. The ring gear is about $25 opposed to about $160 for a new flywheel.

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1983 Chris Craft Catalina 251
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1967 Glastron Fireflight V-155
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 11:02 | IP Logged Quote pop-pop

Berg
I've found one for around $20. Just want to know if I can use the weights from the old one on the new.


http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&S tore_Code=2&Product_Code=G100&Category_Code=FLYgm&Product_Co unt=0

Edited by pop-pop on October 21 2009 at 11:03


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Berg
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 11:13 | IP Logged Quote Berg

hate to burst your bubble but that is one application where automotive does not meet marine. You would need a Flywheel for a Manual Transmission, the one you have found is for an Automatic. if you have your original 305 it should be internally balanced. Unless it has cracks or chunks missing out of it from something hitting it, your orignal one should just need a new ring gear pressed on if thats what the initial problem is (usually the only thing that goes bad on them in a marine environment). While you are in there going through all the trouble, inspect the engine coupler very well and determine the condition of all bolt holes, springs, and splines. Now would be the time to change it out. They could cause a vibration when they wear out, not to mention sometimes they sound like the engine or tranny is knocking when they go. 

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1967 Glastron Fireflight V-155
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 11:18 | IP Logged Quote Berg

it all depends on if you have a 12" flywheel or 14" flywheel and if it is 153 teeth or 168 teeth. i'm going to assume the engine is pre 1986 so it is a 2 piece rear main seal



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1967 Glastron Fireflight V-155
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diveryates
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 11:22 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Jez! Forgot about the coupler! good call Berg...

roy



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