Posted: July 16 2012 at 12:47 | IP Logged

Beartooth,

In the final analysis (depending on use, of course) WOT is a kind of final tweek.  I suspect many boats run fine without that final detail for years. Perhaps it's best anyway to run her a while to be sure of all the ins and outs and gathering consistant, repeatable symptoms. Sometimes problems aboard have this maddening way of coming and going. Running the boat for months will go a long way in sorting out these pickadillos .  

So.

Cooling system's the priority- sounds good to me! Jim in Fla has an excelent point: try and locate what's left of the impellers up stream in the cooling system, perhaps on the intake side of the tranny ATF heat exchanger.

On the Temp sender: Not positive where it's located on your boat. Perhaps the sams as on GM car engines? However, on our boat there is also an optional in-series set of senders: it's a no-oil-pressure and over-temp switch arrangment CC sold as a safety feature- nice feature to have. When you turn ingition on and wait about 10 seconds, we get an audible alarm confirming this circuit is working. Start the engine, the audible stops and we get a green anunciator light indicating this engine safety system is operating. On our boat, the overtemp switch part of this circuit is located right at the thermostat. It looks just like a temp sensor but it's not- it's a switch as opposed to a variable resistence sender which would be used with the temp guage. You may or may not have this feature. Perhaps a little research to understand the difference in these sender types would be useful. Following the sender wire from the temp guage is a sure bet way of IDing the sender's location on the engine. I have a 280's wireing diagram. If you want it, I can Email it to you.

Well done on the raw water pump!!

Roy (Diver) 

Posted: July 22 2012 at 14:26 | IP Logged

Hi all,

I got the water pump installed easily on wednesday evening. I lubed the hoses with dawn dish soap and they slid right on. When I started the motor, within about 10 seconds, I got soap bubbles out both pipes. I did pull the thermostat housing to check for the other impeller bits, but did not see them. I will pull the remaining cooling system in the fall at haul out. I also cleaned the sensor for the temp gauge and now that is working as well. I also noticed that a bit of fuel was dripping from the connection to the carberator, so I took that all apart and claeaned the threads and put it all back together with some more sealant. I let it set up this time so hopefully it not leak this time.

Also, I replaced the fresh water pump (potable) as it stopped working too. Now, if I replace the water heater, it should be leak free. It think it was not winterized at all and froze in about 10 places.

I finally got my Father's day present finished too. My wife had the kids give me the gift of the name graphics for the back of the boat.

It took some time to get the font right. The original font was not a recognized font. The logo was created by an artist and the rest of the letters (other than "Chris Craft") don't exist. My wife found a close font, then changed it in Photoshop. She did good.

Here is the logo for comparison.

Have a good afternoon all. Heading out for a ride on the river or bay.

Graham

Posted: July 23 2012 at 19:31 | IP Logged

Beartooth,

Yup, Bubbles, Shiney Bubbles!!...I like it!

Another way to lube hoses is with Crisco solid vegitable shortening--doesn't stay on the hoses as I think soap disappears too. 

Have to agree with the guys, what a terrific name for a vessel! Very original & discriptive.

Six years ago, I replaced our hot water heater with a standard Lowes 5 gallon unit. Basically the same heater as its predicessor ...with improvments. I masked and sprayed-on this cool rubberized sealing material. Note the water access ports on the heater's side....good installation access...and removal! Got some 5/8 rubber sheeting, made a number of base feet. This was to isolate the heater from dampness/water  and gave it a solid foundation to sit on. This, without the feet being too big so as to not allow moisture accumilation between these footings and the heater's sheet metal bottom. It was a lot less expensive than a marine heater and works great...so far, so good...

In the photo, note The fresh water pump is just under the exhaust hose...you can just see the 'L' fitting. Note the simple hose arrangment 'y'ing off for the cold water line to the head and the galley faucets. The top port on the heater is hot-water out. The lower port: cold water supply for the heater.  It's not real clear, but note the red vise by the cold water 'T'. It has come in handy several times and also serves a footstep.  

Anyway, my compliments Captain.

Roy (Diver)

Posted: August 19 2012 at 14:41 | IP Logged

Ahoy Dic1265,

On my screen, your message did not post on the thread...(?).

Anyway, congradulations Skipper! You are on the threshold of a whole new world...and a really cool one too!

I will try and answer with what I know:

On Catalina 250s and 280s, all 'tween deck coring is in the bow decking area. The best way to see it is where the anchor line port is. Get in there with a mirror and flashlight and see if you can spot the coring- maybe feel the balsa wood with your finger. On our boat, and I suspect many others of the model- CC neglected to install any sealing in that port's area between the deck and the v-birth ceiling...see if that's the case on yours. Suggest researching the the idea behind coring and see if you boat is working according to that concept.  

The only other coring we have on our 280...and it may or may not be different on your 250, are the hull stringers, particularly in the engine room. Long 8-10" lag bolts secure the engine mounts there and if the coring is comprimised these bolts work loose and will only tolerate a small amount of touque to secure- don't strip these holes out unless you're really going to work this issue. This can be a judgment call. Suggest running the boat for a while and keeping an eye for signs of mount movement under way or manouvering.... see what if anything, gives.

You might want to confirm that the rest of the boat is just the top/interour shells and hull section (with air space)...no coring. This arrangment is actually a pretty good design as it keeps things drier and access is better. In the time when your boat was built,  fiberglass layup was very thick- making a very tough boat...it will outlast you in snottly weather.

Not sure what engine you have. Shouldn't be too hard to nail that down with some research. Probably GM based. If so,  parts are common.

 Sounds like you're on the case with the windows. There has been extensive chat concerning windows on the forum.

 Frankly, I suggest setting down with a notebook and reading the thread beginning to end...LOTS of really, really useful stuff!

The propellor spec is stamped on it's hub, but bottom line is if the boat acheives wide open throttle (WOT) to spec (usually 4000 to 4300 RPM, you're good to go. The rest of it is just being sure the prop's not beat up and is clean, streight.

A weak point on all raw water cooled engines is the engine cooling system- namely the exhaust manifolds, risers and associated hoses and pumps, especially in salt water. Rust, corrosion really happens ! If you run in saltwater and have no records indicating what and when the manifolds were serviced- assume they need looking at.

Again, welcome to the Forum- stay in touch Skipper!

best, Roy (Diver)

Posted: August 24 2012 at 08:14 | IP Logged

Good morning all.

Sorry about the absence, but I have been playing as much as I could for the remaining summer days.

On the boat, I installed 2 additional fordeck cleats under the rails between the second and third stantions. I don't like the single center cleat and have another plan. 2 8 - inch SS cleats from Marine Parts Depo were $14 each. I also installed a small bow roller up front to hold the claw anchor and get my anchor off the deck. Now the anchor line gets cleated off on the original center cleat. For all the hardware, I over drilled the holes and filled them with epoxy/colodial silica, then redrilled them to the correct size so the core is protected. I bedded all the hardware with butyl tape (best sealant ever for bedding hardware). All three are through-bolted and have 3/8" aluminum backing plates as big as I could make (40 square inches each for the cleats and more than a square foot for the anchor roller....I could pick the boat up by any one of these if I had to)

  I don't have pictures yet.

I purchased a used tablet computer for $150 that came loaded with windows 7 ultimate. I signed up for Polar Navy Navigation software for $40 and bought a USB GPS for $10. I now have a 12" color chart plotter for 200 bucks. It works great. I could go crazy and even start interfacing engine readings through a NEMA2000 interface hub, but I am not puching it. Just working on holder right now for it so it is off the dash. As a side benifit, I also have a computer for the boat for watching movies or surfing the web, etc. It also provides a great speed-over-ground thatis much more accurate than the speedo in my fish finder. I may have been going faster than I thought all along. No pictures of this either yet

The admiral and I ahve spent a couple of nights on the boat over the last few weeks including one night with 60 mph winds and 8 inches of rain. It was a crazy night. She woke me up couple of times thinking a big power boat was trying to dock, but the exhaust rumble was only the wind. The wind out of the NE backed the water up in Saginaw Bay and the river 2 feet. Not a big deal to you tide-folks, but that put a lot of boats in a bad place. I am on a floating dock so no-problem.

Next Thursday, we are heading up th Mackinac Island. It will be about a day and a half each way. 200 miles. Probably have to stop for fuel 4 times each way. 4 nights on the boat with the wife and 2 step-daughters. I am looking forward to it. The girls have not ever done any real boating except this summer. The older (9) helped my son and I bring the boat up when I bought it. Should be a nice cruise around 12-14 mph. With luck and good weather, we should be gone from Thursday through Monday. We might even manage an impromptu rendezvous with my brother (28' glass stream center console) and my parents (44 hinkly express) at St. Ignace on the north side of the Mackinaw Bridge.

On to question time....I am going to change the oil this weekend before I go, I have been meaning to all summer but have not gotten to it. Planning on sucking it out the dipstick tube. What grade oil for replacement? How much can I expect to get out and replace? I have heard I should use a heavy duty oil for trucks because of the constant high load on these motors. 

How about Trans fluid. I don't think I am going to get to replace it, but I would like to have a couple extra quarts on board. It will go with the spare fuel filters, the spare impeller, the spare belts, spare oil filters, spare oil (When I figure out what to buy). I like to be prepared.

Thank you all

Posted: August 24 2012 at 11:07 | IP Logged

 Ahoy Beartooth,

You're on the water...Outstanding!! There are some great articles on involving kids with this sort of thing...chores, lines, driving, Navigation, games, themes- it's all good.

I agree on the motor oil thing. Mercruiser make a spacifically blended heavy oil for marine engines- we use it. Expensive, but good oil designed for this kind of use is at the heart of the matter.

Tranny oil (ATF): if good pinkish, clear color that doesnt have a burning smell, you good to go. Extra Qt or two always a good idea. Do you have duct tape aboard? Has many uses.

Check the VHF. Know if your Cell phone works in the areas you traveling in and have  water proof bag like freezer Ziplocs and spare battery. Good deal with you GPS! The technology always give us a worm, fuzzy feeling... on the water we like that a lot!

BTW, the Americas Cup is having their first round on SF Bay this weekend. Lorelei will there trying to stay out of the way!

Have a safe trip!

Roy

Posted: August 24 2012 at 12:54 | IP Logged

Roy,

Thank you for getting back so quick. As for the oil any suggestions? I probably won't get the mercruiser stuff, at least for this trip. The boat comes out of the water in a month anyway, so I will probably change it again then too. I have no documentation at all as to Straight weight or 5w or 10w...etc. Not a clue at all. I do have a share of agricultural and heavy mechanical places around to get good oil by the gallon, Just don't know what type and how much. (Wife said to take as much out as I can and fill it back up to the mark.....Thats why she s the admiral)

I have been boating since before I could stand. The kids will be fine. Now a days, they are all plugged into I pods and Game boys etc. they will be fine. (I had to install extra outlets for 12v chargers.) I have cruised the great lakes for years as a kid. Don't worry, I have the duct tape, bailing wire, zip ties, spare clamps and screws and bolts and hose pieces and all the stuff I need unless it is a major oops. Plus about 50 lbs of tools to do the work. Cell phones, back up GPS, actual paper charts... and I will never be out of sight of land. And lastly, the BoatUS unlimited towing.

It would be fun to get out a see a bit of the America's cup (I am a future world cruiser by sailboat. Shhh, don't tell anyone. September 2025 we set off).

Posted: August 25 2012 at 18:44 | IP Logged

I ended up going with Shell Rotella 30w. From my research, boat engines tend to run at higher speed for long periods of time and in a pretty constant temperature range compared to a car whch speeds up and slows down and can run from coldest winter to hottest summer. I did find in my *sparse* owner's manual that they reccommend 30 weight. Tractor Supply Company had it for $14 per gallon. I also got Wix filters (one for the engine, one as a spare).

The tablet computer works great. With the Polar Navy software it is fantastic. I have the hardtop so I am not in direct sunlight. I am using a Ram mount and I built a holder for the tablet out of wood and epoxy fiberglass. It is in the paint booth right now. The tablet just slides in and I plug in the power cord and USB GPS. It is mounted above the windshield. The tablet operates with a stylus pen.

It let me create waypoints, build routes, reverse all routes, tracks my travels, etc. All of the functions of a $2000 chart plotter plus more. Vector and Raster charts are free to download from NOAA. It also does weather plotting and tide plotting. The software was $39.

This afternoon, I bypassed the hot water heater so there are no freshwater leaks (replacement next spring). Then I installed a 12v outlet next to the passenger seat for phones and ipads and such. Then we went for a half hour ride to warm up the motor and then I changed the oil. I got about 1.5 gallons out by pumping it from the dipstick. ($7.00 pump from Harbor Freight Tools....Need something better next time as the suction hose kept collapsing....cheap junk). I finished the afternoon by washing the boat.

T-minus 4 days until shove-off

Posted: August 26 2012 at 12:11 | IP Logged

Beartooth,

I must appoligize for my presumptions on kids and boats! I come from learning to ride horses 'afore I walked, so you get me there. We have no kids, though I tought kindergardeners and 1st graders in another life. Youngsters have a magic don't they...

Anyway, great deal with all the good work you doing. Going out on a limb here, but somehow I get the feeling you'll fine afloat.

Here's some stuff for the idea locker and some showing off:

Here's one for the emergency leak kit: The Coasties carry a supply of those wax toilet seals. At $2.00 each they are great insurance.  Sticks to anything, seals like no bodies business! Here a shot of the kit we keep on Lorelei:

We also have something very similer to the features you discribe for AV, Nav and VHF at the co-pilot's station:

We're off to watch the Americas Cup this morning on Lorelei, Clowdy, windy, cold- typical Bay conditions.

Roy

Posted: August 28 2012 at 10:52 | IP Logged

Dic 1265-

If you're a Boat US member-in-good-standing and can't post, double check your membership status and perhaps ask them to contact and sort this out with the webmaster. Due to limited posting access to members only, the service should have smoother, improved usability- apparently not....? Non Boat US members can read only, just not post to the forum. 

I'm receiving notifications you are posting but nothing is seen on the sight. Probably what you're seeing (or not).

they should be able to sort this out for you.

Roy

Posted: September 06 2012 at 07:51 | IP Logged

Dic1265,

The 'last post' log on the left colmn indicates you did post Sept 3, around 3PM. Hmmm...Just not up on the forum page? One step at a time...

Roy (Diver)

Posted: September 06 2012 at 20:04 | IP Logged

Bear , I love them name & the font ! Looks amazing best of luck .

Diver great patch kit !

Posted: September 30 2012 at 23:03 | IP Logged

that's gotta be pretty cool.  I would have loved to do that but because I like to cruise a little faster than 18knts (which is pretty good for 150hp) I would have loved a Volvo D4-300...300HP single, probably would have easily broken the 30mph barrier since my 270hp Mercruiser did a tick over 28.  Missed having my CC this past summer, hope to get back on the water next summer, maybe summer after at the latest.

keep up the good work Capt's

Posted: October 02 2012 at 07:47 | IP Logged

Dennis,

You put in a $30K Cummons, I'll take the 350 off your hands...

fair winds, Roy 

Posted: October 15 2012 at 22:26 | IP Logged

Me to hope all is well Capt Fly Dan ! The other site is really great . Capt Rick did an amazing job with it.  The site is very active . This was a great site as well, until boat us did the member only thing. Diver ,You have helped us out so many times , Would like to see you and CC over there. It's all just catalina guys like us. Great topics and great people. Check it out . Hope every one is well. Capt Mark ????

Check it out , you will not be sorry a lot of info

www.chriscraftcatalinaclub.com

Posted: October 16 2012 at 07:46 | IP Logged

Thanks Happy Hour III!

I do visit occationally.

Best, Roy

Posted: November 13 2012 at 20:25 | IP Logged

Ahoy Ruff Cs,

 Check fluid level 1st. I have a Borg Warner Tranny, but sometimes even in neutral there will be slow shaft movment with no torque. The engine is coupled to the tranny's hydrolic pump. On Borg Warner Trannys, all power is transmitted thru this pump. You may want to check a manual if the same is true on a Paragon. If so, sometimes a hi idle will cause slow rotation- may cease by turning down the idle if it's set a little hi. Since you have twins, suggest COMPARING the cable/shifter adjustment and movement of the operational tranny to the one that's suspect . Have an assistant operate the shifters while your in the engine room...compare actions. If nothing is apparent,  Suggest disconnecting the cable at the suspect tranny. With the engine off, see if you can feel rotatation the shifter lever. Feel for indents of the three positions: Neutral, Forward, Reverse. Feel for smooth shifter rotation or at least the same as the operationl tranny. This is tricky, so be safe!:With the boat well secured to the dock, start the engine and at idle with the shifter cable disconnected, see if you can shift the tranny manually.

The deal is to see if the problem is the shift cabling to the wheelhouse or the tranny. My guess is the tranny is fine.

best, Diver

Posted: December 06 2012 at 10:24 | IP Logged

Hi Denis!

Great to hear from you. Say hi to Pat will ya?  Sweet lady

I believe Stewart Warner guages are factory for the 280's. Their logo is on the face. Compare it with what's shown on their current production units- should be the same. West Marine has them. Remember to check the tank sender and the attendent wiring unless it's just the guage just looks DOA.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuel-Gauges/p_791642

Merry Christmas!

Roy  

Posted: December 06 2012 at 10:43 | IP Logged

Hi Capt. H,

Yup-sometimes. Read only.  Although Capt. Rick's work on the site is top drawer, I find conversing here a bit easier.  Sometimes people come over to chat.

BTW, did some seal repairs using RTV on the front windows just before the rains hit...good fix. Seems RTV has a new formulation on the market, which for one thing doesn't small as much- whether it works as well--- jury's still out- I'm optimumistic. Using those small squeeze tubes just doesn't cut- those large tubes with despensor is much better, though hard to find...and expensive.

Things 'r damp in the Bay Area right now though not freezing like our guys back east- ugg.

Happy Holidays, Roy (Diver)

Posted: December 18 2012 at 23:28 | IP Logged

Hi Dennis,

I'm at a loss. The forum's a terrific resource. I think there's a message there somewhere. Perhaps there's a misperception along the lines of a lack of social interaction(?). Oh well- it's a free country. We're still here, our 280's still float and there's water in the Bay- reason enough to stay in touch. I'm sure if there is something really pressing there will communication.

Nope, no window water leaks on Lorelei. I keep an eagle eye on those seals. Funny you should ask- I just finished resealing the front windows a few days B$ the rains came. More accurately, I repaired the existing seals where needed, mostly at the corners where the orginal seals shrunk leaving gaps. Used RTV- which works fine.  I used compressed air and a heat gun to purge what water was in there 1st. 

Anyway, on your fuel guage thing- Sounds to me like electrically anyway, the system's working. My 1st guess is the float/sender unit is out of calibration, meaning the arm-with-float assembly inside the tank is somehow geometrically wrong: the arm's bent wrong, it's too long, too short- and the 'throw' is not linear... something like that.

Getting it to indicate right probably involves staging a replacment sender gasket, carefully removing the tank's sender cover screws (WD40- let set overnight) pulling the sender and understanding thru slowly, playing with it, its mechanical action while watching the guage's reaction ( ignition switch on, coil disconnected... safety 1st! ) to get an idea of what can make it work better.  

Question is: is a general indication ok?  Mine's not that accurate either but good enough for how I use the boat. I use the 2/3 rule anyway: 1/3 tank for the trip,  1/3 for get-home and 1/3 safety magin. If I were doing longer trips the guage would be more critical.  

BTW, great video on the ISS!

Have a greaT Holiday! Huggs to Pat.

Fair winds, Roy

Posted: December 19 2012 at 21:21 | IP Logged

Hello Caps , I have to agree this site was really going well at one point in time.I use to look forward to reading it. I am a big fan of boat us but once they made it for members only it went down hill and we lost a lot of great Caps ! This site was easy and everything on one page . Thanks to Captain Rick he made a great site and got everyone back together. He worked hard and made a place for us. I agree with Diver this is a great source and great guys.  The new site is great too. Diver I REALLY hope to see you there, You are ALWAYS there to help. I thank you . Plus you can put great pictures up of the fine "Lorelei" of yours. I wish  you all a very Merry Christmas and a very safe and Happy New Year. CC I replaced all my gauges and it made a big diffence

Posted: December 26 2012 at 19:56 | IP Logged

use wooden dowell for fuel stick works great