Posted: October 03 2011 at 17:19 | IP Logged

HELLO ALL :   Sorry to hear about HHIII motor, will try to catch up on my reading of all the posts since last friday.

 Salompro: I got my new starter switch, it has six wires : Red,Purple,Black,Black with Gray stripe,yellow with red stripe,orange'   My old switch has three connections: one marked BATT  ,red wire attached, one marked ST ,yellow with red stripe attached. the other terminal has a purple wire attached no marking?   Any idea about the extra wires (Black w-gray stripe/Black/Orange) ??     As for my shifter, I bolted it down and it works fine!!

     Will write more later

     LONEWOLF

Posted: October 03 2011 at 18:11 | IP Logged

Back surgery went well last Tuesday so hopefullyn back in action after recovery.

JiminFla, I have the exact same setup with the hold tank and rudder.  Whne we got the boat there was about a 60 gallon hold tank there and thought it was way too big.  I replaced it wiht a 20 gallon and all the hoses go in port side so it can be removed without to much effort.  Our bilge too seemed to have too much water and was pretty sure was the rudder packing.  Over the winter I pulled the tank and made the dive into repacking the rudder and water problemo solved.  Deifinitely a job for the hard as have to drop the rudder out after disconeenct the steering, etc.  I want to say it took aorund 6 pieces of 3/8-1/2" packing. Job pretty easy excpet getting the packing nut started back on.  USe lots of dish soap and put it on/off outsdie the boat 4-5 times and precompress it until will slip rihgt on as learned the hard way that before did that it was wanitg to catch the last piece of packing on the rudder shaft tube and not thread.  We also have a thetford head wiht an integral 5 gal tank.  We fill that then pump thru macerator to the hold tank.  I would never take my hold tank out wiht 3 women on baord!

H3 sorry to hear of the engine but could have been worse at sea.  Wiht all the talk of engines I keep thinking maybe time to put my 305 on the rebuild list.  Would liek a 350 but also like to keep the 305 as is the original.  It does not use any oil but does show signs of age.  Keep the towboat US premium paid just in case!

RickP, the winds that came thru last week were unreal.  How much damage from the dock rub?  They were showing winds running down the bay at 70 mph so amazing your canvas survived at all.  I'll be watching your engine deciuson too.

Hey Ky Gravy, are you still out there?  last we heard you had run aground and think were lookkig to get starbaord shaft, etc. replaced.

Brad

Posted: October 03 2011 at 18:54 | IP Logged

Brad,

Thanks for the reply. Did you have to pull all that mess to get to the Rudder?

My tank is held in with a tie down strap and it looks like the rest would come up if I could move the tank out of the way. Same issue with yours?

Diver also suggested the Thetford head. Are you happy with yours also?

The other half and I too the Cat out for a long cruise yesterday up the St Johns into downtown with 5 friends. The Jags were playing, so we go out of there before the game let out. The traffic coming out of the stadium area can get pretty crazy I'm told. Burned a littl,e under half tank and she ran like a swiss watch. It was flat calm and PERFECT weather. Coudn't have asked for a better day!

Jim

Posted: October 03 2011 at 19:52 | IP Logged

PEANUT ISLAND:  I was watching TV today, and a story about Peanut Island came on.  Found out alot about the Peanut Island!!  Didn't know JFK, bunker was located there!!  Reckon Cap'n Heavy has many interesting things to tell about the history of, and what is located on the island!!!   

Fly Bridge  ----Dan

Posted: October 03 2011 at 20:13 | IP Logged

Brad,

My damage from the dock rub wasn't to bad, I think most will buff out. I just bought a really nice Makita buffer so I'll be breaking that out once she's out of the water. A sailboat completely broke free during the storm and another boat broke somewhat free and ended up with a gash through the hull about 10 inches from hitting the corner of the dock. It was a fairly new boat to, I believe a Formula. I thought about going down to the marina about 2am as I new my canvas wasn't going to survive, but I decided it was only a boat. Getting blown into the water with 70 mph winds, even with a pfd on, I'd probably still have drowned, so...I laid in bed and worried about it instead. Good luck with the back, hopefully you'll be feeling better than ever shortly.

Posted: October 03 2011 at 23:17 | IP Logged

Smile n Wave,

Brad! Easy does it! The sea will wait for you. She is patient... in a good way!

Lonewolf62,

A working throttle- yea!! Well Done!!

At your pleasure, I can EMail Mercruiser/CC schematics. I'm an engineer and I still get turned around on these things sometimes.

Wiring  colors:

Black: Engine ground. Check this. disconnent and read a short to ground. NO Voltage.

Yellow with red stripe: To Starter solonoid (S)

Purple: Positive side of ignition coil. Second purple wire supplies power to the guages. Third purple goes to safety circuit: Engine overtemp, engine oil underpressure, transmission overtemp.

Red: Battery (B) On the CC schematic, this wire, from the main harness, first goes to the 20A fuse next to the ign. switch, then thru the fuse to (B) on the Ign. switch. The lug side (Unfused) of this 20A fuse feeds the rest of the fuses (and their acompanieing switches) for R/L wipers, nav lites, horn, blower, fore/aft bilge pumps, courtesy lites, panel lites.

The other colors I'm not sure.

Rich P.- God- what a trial by fire- no wait- water! Can't imagine. In my view, you did just the right thing- stayed out of harms way! The worlds better with you in it brother! A strong sense of self preservation is a solid plus in a Captain.

Jimin fla,

If you remove the black water tank- how 'bout using a recriricating saw and take it out in pieces? Maybe take the crud out first.

Everyone- maintenance item: When we bought Lorelei, the rubber anti chafe  strips between the fueltank tie downs and the tank were, in places- non-existent- metal to metal chafing on a fuel tank- not good. 

Suggest inspecting of those rubber strips.

Here's an idea:

nite all,

Roy (diver)

Posted: October 04 2011 at 07:53 | IP Logged

sounds like you may have ordered a ign. switch that is mapped to a newer boat brand (merc,evinrude,hond,ect.)  You should be able to isolaye the three wires you need if memory serves me correctly there are two red and a white wire that are coming from the engine harness. one is the battery (red) one is the starter (red as well) and then one is the ign ground (white) the others may be for accessories and the like. wouldn't worry too much about them other wise I know overtons has the three connection switches.

supposed to be a beautiful weekend here in wisconsin I plan on doing the other windows I will take some photos as I do it this time and post them this task is a pain in the arse.

Rick P one of these days man I will make it over by you it has been so busy for me. Please keep us posted as to where you get your repower from I am thinking about it as well just have to convince the little lady to let me spend the money.

Posted: October 04 2011 at 08:02 | IP Logged

Divery,

you have the schematics for these boats? I could use them if you could email them to me that would be fantastic sean.smith@cdw.com I am having an issue where I don't believe my alt. is connected properly I have two new batteries in my starter bank and I am getting nothing back to them when the engine is running. I have to charge them, at the dock every trip. I know that when they put my engine back in the boat that they said that the one wire was a ground wire and I am not so sure on that and it is not connected at this time and I need to see where it goes.

Posted: October 04 2011 at 11:22 | IP Logged

Hey boat man 10 Grand wow . in 2000 my complete port motor installed was 7 grand . also it was fresh water cooled. still runs perfect to this day . merc cruiser completre . I like the 3500 number .

Posted: October 04 2011 at 12:59 | IP Logged

Hello ALL :   Diveryates : Thank you so much, the CC Schematics would be a great help, my email address is :  lwenterprise@msn.com  or kinggeorge@msn.com     When I talked to overtons about an Ign. switch they thought I needed the one they sent me, I told them it was for a CC Cat. 251 single eng.    When I looked at the old one , I saw it only has three lugs.  But I can either switch it for another or use it as is .     

  Salmonpro: Thank you for you help also, I have a porta potty in my head,connected to my pump-out port , I have pumped it out with no trouble.  There is a maserator pump connected to a line that goes overboard, it is not connected to anything, it was probably diconnected by the last owner, I was thinking of putting in a three way valve so I can pump out at a pup out station or switch to pump out when far enough out to sea. ??thoughts?

Posted: October 05 2011 at 07:40 | IP Logged

ughhhhhhh!!!!!,

so I pulled out one of the front windows lastnight and was removing the glass from the frame and broke the damn window. Not a good thing. so today I am off to the local glass cutter to have a new glass piece made, But here is a question would you replace this with Glass or would you go with plexiglass window to replace it? I have to pull the other one as well so I may just have them cut them both if I get any good feedback on plexiglass. was not a happy camper and my wife laughed at me because she is usually the one to break things. her exact words were and I quote "I am so Glad that wasn't me" LOL. I must have had fire coming out of my ears or something. the track is cleaning up fairly well and I see that when they set the windows to begin with they used the Butyl rubber to bed them so I have actually found the correct way to do this. I think I will do a step by step tutorial on this with photos as this is one of the first questions that seem to come up with new forum members.  I will say that this is not a fun experience but it will be very much worth the time.  Pics coming soon

Sean

Posted: October 05 2011 at 09:25 | IP Logged

Sean, I agree with Mark, go with real glass (tempered).  If it is not too expensive, you may want to replace both sides so they look uniform and are of similar age/strength.  Probably easier to do both at the same time.  Find out if the glass company can do the install into the aluminum frmae too...may be the best way to get a solid seal.

Posted: October 05 2011 at 09:44 | IP Logged

Glass it is I am about to call them

Thanks Guys

Posted: October 05 2011 at 12:40 | IP Logged

Salmonpro

So two weekends ago I pulled my Stbd window to reseal as it was leaking in the corners. Pulled it (pain in the butt), cleaned the window and cabin side, calked with 3M 400UV and reinstalled. Finished up at 2am.

Then I discovered that one (one!) of the bolts that hold the drapery rod had gone, not through the hole, but between the window frame and cabin side which meant that the window was not seated correctly. Oh did I mention that the 3M 4000 had already cured and I couldn't get the damn thing back out?

Now I am faced with leaving it the way that it is - tight as a drum, but not "right", or trying to pull it out and re-do the job "right".

So I decide to pull it out. Turns out that 3M 4000 is some pretty strong stuff. I can't get the damn thing out even after cutting away at the calking. Ah ha! I'll check the 3M website and see what they make to soften this stuff to make it easier! Turns out that tool is call a knife. Thanks, 3M! I would have never thought of that on my own!

So I blew it off for last weekend since the window wasn't coming out with less than a small C4 charge and went for a cruise instead.

Here's some photos:

Before

Trying to strip out the old caulking.

Getting to the bond at the bottom of the window was really hard, I fashioned this from a Painter's Tool. I would be very interested in what other folks have used.

Finally Out!

Cleaned and prepped for re-insertion. The old adhesive was really hard to get off, so I used a round wire brush on my driver to get it up.

Window cleaned and ready to go back in.

Posted: October 05 2011 at 12:59 | IP Logged

To "The Window Wonder Boy's".  Sure know your PAIN!!  Still have port side sliding windows, and channel removed.   Need  Pile/Felt weather stripping, to FIND.  Called Chrisparts.com, but unsure if correct size.  Local window retailers/parts stores do not have the size, etc.  Anyone know where I can purchase (perhaps locally),  find CORRECT  Pile/Felt replacement? 

JIM:  I also had a most difficult time with channel removal.  Although I was  removing the Salon (Helm area) sliding window channel, while you were working on the lower cabin windows.   I STARTED with I  a looong handle screw-driver, and hammer. I placed screw-driver under channel, and gently hammered driver under channel.  As I worked my along, I used a small crowbar, and a block of wood, as leverage, and to help prevent gel coat damage.   I did remove a very small piece of gel coat, in one place, SOLELY due to the toughness of the Factory Caulking.  The damage is easily repaired.  I had no other damage, by placing screw-driver on gel coat.  However, if there WERE to incur damage, it would be UNDER the channel, and AFTER minor repairs, will be protected by the Bedding Caulking. The factory used some mighty strong stuff, to bed/seal the channels!!  I wonder if a home-made tool like this might be a easy method to remove channel.  "A length of piano-wire, (or something similar) tied to a length of wood, forming a either LONG or SHORT "Loop", then insert under channel, at one end, and pull along the channel length".  Think that may work?

Another method, is using a cheap (from China of course!!) LONG, LONG butcher-type knife, and "hammer" it along under the channel.  The only problem, is the ---TOUGHNESS of the Factory Caulking, that REFUSES to "let-go" of the gel coat!!!!  Believe me, it WILL pull the gel coat off!!

Fly Bridge  -----Dan  

Posted: October 05 2011 at 13:45 | IP Logged

Hello All:  Well Sat. is haul out day for the SEAWOLF,  DAMN IT, but at least I can see the bottom, shaft,prop,rudder, and see what needs to be done for spring.  I will start my many projects to make her better, thanks to you all I have a lot I want to do.         Great ideas from you guys.  Has anyone ever used these dessacant filled plastic spark plugs in their eng. for winter storage??   I know they are used in some eng. for storage to keep the moisture out, I was told when you see them turn pink, remove them , put in Microwave oven to dry them out and put them back in??

  VENNY: I would like to see your boat, I live in Danvers, let me know when you will be around, Sat. I will be in newburyport takeing mine up the merrimac to haverhill for winter storage.

                LONEWOLF

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:08 | IP Logged

Jim In FL...sorry to hear about the window issue.  yes, the 4000 is sealer and ashesive but is not as strong as 3M's 4200 or 5200.  Was the whole window assembly misaligned?  Seems you got it removed but just in case there is another issue....

There is product (not by 3M) called "Anti-Bond", it is an adhesive releasing product that is supposed to un-bond 5200 and any of the other products. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductD isplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=1174 804&langId=-1

I read the reviews for Anti-Bond and they are mixed.  But some of them mention another product called "Marine Formula" and said it did the job as advertised.

Because 5200 is a Ployurethene and 4000UV is a Polyether I called Marine Formula and spoke to the VP of sales, Rob King.  He said that Marine Formula will work fine on 3M's 4000UV. that Polyuethene and Polyether  http://www.marineformula.com/index.html 

Contact Us

Phone: 561-575-4200
FAX: 561-828-2339

Address:
11924 Forest Hill Boulevard, Suite 22-213
Wellington, FL 33414-6258, USA

I mentioned the situation to him and he said to score the sealant between the window frame and fiberglass and wedge a couple putty knives to open the gap just a little, then follow the instructions on the can.  He said to call him on his cell if you had any questions (561-818-0394). 

Hope this helps if there is a next time

Tom

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:12 | IP Logged

Flybridger Dan...  If the window track is the same on your 33 as it is on the 280's, here is the information which I think I posted a couple years ago...

Subject: FW: Waterbonnet part number 04194
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 15:12:36 -0400
From: kandelin@taylormarine.com

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:19 | IP Logged

NAUTI CAT:  Thanks!!!!!   Been at a standstill, needing the correct replacement!!  Now, I can put the window togegher, due to your help!!  Cannot thank you enough!!         You are a---- CHRIS  CRAFT -- STAR!!!!

Dan 

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:29 | IP Logged

NAUTI CAT:  I was referring to the PILE/FELT weather stripping.  It "slides" into the grooves inside the channel. This has the purpose of BTH, sealing the window, and prevents "rattling" of the windows.  There is no RUBBER involved, on the salon sliding windows.

UPDATE:  I telephoned the Indiana office of Taylor just now.  They are mailing a sample of the "Flocked" weather stripping to me!!  Thanks for the link, and HELP!!!!

Dan.

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:34 | IP Logged

ok, what I had to get for the sliding windows in my 280 was a U shaped channel that was thin rubber coated in felt, it popped into the aluminum window frame channels to hold the sliding windows in place and allow them to effortlessly slide open and closed.  Cross section looks like this...

Posted: October 05 2011 at 14:46 | IP Logged

NAUTI CAT:  That part is for the lower cabin windows, right?  I believe, I also need a strip of gray-colored rubber/plastic, that slides in a groove, for the BOTTOM of channel, that the glass "Sits" on.  The Flocked material is inserted in grooves along along both SIDES of the channel. 

Dan

Posted: October 05 2011 at 16:57 | IP Logged

Dan, can you take and post a photo?  Check Chris Parts...even if he doesnt have the pieces in stock you can look at the cross sections.  He's the one who got me the info on the old Waterbonnett window track felts.

Posted: October 06 2011 at 07:53 | IP Logged

Nauti cat,

if you ever leave this forum we will be in trouble! LOL your wealth of knowledge is outsatnding.

Sean

Posted: October 06 2011 at 10:46 | IP Logged

hahaha...thanks Sean.  Just sharing my experience but I am nothing compared to Roy-Diver.  He is truly a knowledgable CC owner, as many of the members here in this forum are - totally a team effort. 

I've been boating since a month old and even though I currently do not have a boat, I still love the lifestyle.  I took a part time job at my local West Marine and get paid to talk about boats... and I get to learn a lot from many of the customers and educating myself on the various products. 

Hopefully this winter I will have time to take some of their training classes.  I figured out my discount this past season on the boating supplies...almost $2k worth of supplies for about $800 - a $1200 davings...super discount!

Posted: October 06 2011 at 13:48 | IP Logged

Thanks for the well wishes guys.  Dewey hope you are back ono your feet soon too.

JiminFla - yes have to take the tank out to get to.  Mine pretty easy after redid it as all hoses on one side.  Unclamp and stuff them wiht rags and remove tank and support to get to rudder shaft. 

RickP if you go rebuild let salmonpro and me know and maybe we find a saturday to bring some cold ones and "help" !!