Posted: March 21 2012 at 14:38 | IP Logged

Capt Mark, spoke to marina in sturgeon bay last week who had a 60' sunseeker come in and dock - came all the way from Cleveland via water.  Talk about early but I hope it keeps up!  If it does I wil likely get the pontoon in month ahead of normal.

Nauti, sounds like you have researched a complete redo.  Have often thought down the road would be worht looking into one of the yards up here that do major refit and see what would cost for repower, rewire, replumb, complete cosemtics, etc.  Have a dream of doing the loop someday and the 280 would be about right size - not too big not too small.

Brad

Posted: March 21 2012 at 21:50 | IP Logged

Smile n Wave-

Thank you for your thoughtful response. The back and forth, give and take of the Forum is its life's blood. We have varable conditions when it comes to stray current at South Beach Harbor- lot of boats coming and going. The only way we can stay on top of it is with our diver, Brian who cleans the hull and monitors the rate of zinc deteriation every 4 months. We've been lucky for the last couple of years. Before that- hi zinc usage- never found out what neightbor (or even if) caused the issue. However, I lay bets it was a boat somewhere in the vacinity. It is frustrating. In a diverse city like SF, there are quite a few - dare I say irresponsible nuts in the harbor- including our beloved piece-of-work idiot neighbor who shares our double slip. Parted dock lines, collisions, falling in the water (with his cell phone...twice) the litiney goes on and on. ho boy... He's a nice guy, just sorta ...prone, ya know?.

Who's that kid in Peanuts with the cloud over his head all the time? 

Berg, Ben-

I guess one of the points of going with a single is to essentially redifine the boats use.  She would never plane again...intentionally. She would become a lamb in tigers; clothing so-to-speak... more a trawler and be lookin good doin it!  If the intent is fishing offshore or the ability to cover distance that is in the equation, then speed is the need. If however, the intent is cruising locally or of a social bent- or even liveaboard, perhaps that thought should be thrown into the mix too. There was a facinating article in Passagmaker Magazine where people found it fasionable to live on the water in  purpose built 'Mega Yachts' that are purpose built with no engines. Guess perception is still everything sometimes.  This is notwithstanding the complexity of such a project and perhaps running doubles in a alternating stratagy might be the ticket to economic bliss. I'm a go slow, watch-the-world-go-by kinda guy so I suppose that's why the thought occured.  When it comes to propulsion, I submit that intended use is the name of the game.  At this planning stage of your project. all consideration are on the table. You could get published in the Marine Mags with this sort of thing. Dare I say get funding?

nite all, Roy      

Posted: March 22 2012 at 01:10 | IP Logged

CAPTAINS:

Got the Starboard fuel tank loose.  Going to remove thru the salon tomorrow, then clean bilge.

Today, I was thinking about the POPPING sound from the engine I mentioned in a prior Post.  I researched causes a week ago.  In addition to "bad Gas", another cause  in the results was stated, a vacuum air-leak.  I dismissed that idea, almost immediately, because...I thoughtlessly..." BUT I DON'T HAVE A VACCUUM AIR_LEAK"!!   It dawned on me today, that YES, I DO have a vacuum leak!!   The raw water (sea water)  pump, has   3 VACUUM LINES to  it!!  I am still going to change-out the filters, and etc.

I'll "fire" Her for a few seconds to make sure that IS the CAUSE.  The "Popping" sound WILL be heard immediately.   I drained the gas, and it was NOT NEARLY as bad-looking, as the Port gas tank.  The Strbd. gas looked like URINE.  And NOT NEARLY as foul smelling, as the Port gas.

PHOTO:  Note the 2 Air line connections close to each other, and the 1 on the Bottom of pump.   SHEESH, how could I miss this!!

All for now.  Dan   (Fly Bridge)

Posted: March 22 2012 at 05:14 | IP Logged

Dan,

I admit I have no idea what those nipples are on that pump.  Are you sure it's vacuum?  That really doesn't make sense.  Some sort of primer for the pump makes more sense.  The popping you heard, was it coming back throught the carb?  Do you think it's timing?  I lost a cam lobe and that made a hell of a popping type noise.

Roy,

WTF?!  just the thought of trying to move the rudder and shaft log is enough for me to shake my head!

Posted: March 22 2012 at 14:09 | IP Logged

Hello Caps Working at the Palm Beach Boat Boat Show this weekend. Cap Steve you coming down ????? again .

Toilet issue should I use fresh water or raw water to flush my bowl ?????

Fly Bridge they are check valves  made to blow if water freezes up or preasure gets high

Posted: March 22 2012 at 23:12 | IP Logged

Dan, are you sure they are air connections?? Might they be grease fittings? Just thinking.

Berg, not crazy about Faria gauges. Saw too many go bad when I worked for Hinckley Yachts. Any way, your gauge must be wired to the corresponding sending unit. I.E. Faria Gauge should be connected to a Faria sending unit.

JimHH, my son in law has a booth, "Canvas and Towers" at the show. Don't know if I'll make it, but his name is Jay, good guy to know, say Hi if you pass by his booth. May be at the island this weekend, time to check zincs.

Nite, Y'all, Capt. Steve

Posted: March 22 2012 at 23:34 | IP Logged

Dan,

Those two fittings are part of an assembly connecting both input and output pipes. Perhaps a extra raw water supply for some accessory? Are there any hoses in the engine room that were connected to these fittings? If so, follow them to wherever.

Maybe ID the part either thru the engines marinized MFG'r or the pump's Mfgr (stamped/marked on it somewhere), match pictures and the unit's specification sheet may identify what this feature is.

Or

hard copy the picture, stop by a boatyard and see if they can ID it...? 

Roy

Posted: March 23 2012 at 10:04 | IP Logged

here is my helm again after replacing my gauges did it after the repower . The orange tips faded a little but they work . I also replaced the labels under the switches ( round black ones ) I found them on Chris parts very cheap

Posted: March 23 2012 at 17:34 | IP Logged

Hi Guys,  Been awhile since I've been on.  Still trying to catch up on my reading.  For those interested in model and age of boat, ser.# is on outside of transom, upper right hand corner.  On my '79 280, there are 14 numbers and letters.  #CCHO942M79H280.  I think the HO is where it was built, the 942 is the ser. #, not certain about the M, 79 is year of mfg., H is month (august), 280 is model.  Someone on forum may have more accurate info. on this.

Going to be in Pensascola Apr. 4&5.  Any of you have your boat there?  Going to visit a couple of Kansas City high school hotrod club buddies from 1955!  Club was a charter member of the NHRA.  Does that date me, or what?  Still best of friends.

Denis

Posted: March 23 2012 at 23:22 | IP Logged

Hello, All. Floater, Great to hear from You. If your boat will be out of the water more than in, I would recomend a hard bottom paint like like Interlux Bottom Coat. West Marine has their own brand at a lower cost. It is a modified epoxy paint. Do not use an ablative paint if trailering.

JimHH, Bonnie was asking about Sunshine. Hope all is well. My step daughter is also expecting. Nite, all, H.

Posted: March 24 2012 at 13:01 | IP Logged

CAPTAINS:

2nd gas tank (Strbd.) will be removed in a hour.  In position to lift/slide out of Salon.

On the Raw Water Pump, the 3 "Air Fittings" I described, are actually DRAIN LINES, for Winterizing procedure.  A Mercruiser mechanic at a marine dealer that I deliver canvas products to, told me this is what the 3 lines are used for.  The lines have only about a 1/8 inch opening.   The bottom line is not connected, open to atmosphere.  The other 2  (colors Orange and White) are connected to a valve, below the Hand Pump, to clear the cooling system with air pressure.

Back in an hour, with update on gas tank, with  photos.

Dan    (Fly Bridge)

Posted: March 24 2012 at 13:04 | IP Logged

Capt'n Jim:

Glad she is ok.  Prayers do  WORK!!  YEA!!!!    

Dan    (Fly Bridge)   

Posted: March 24 2012 at 14:30 | IP Logged

CAPTAINS:

2nd gas tank removed!!  This Starbd. tank APPEARS to be OK.  Tank as  small rust spot on bottom of tan, and can be repaired by welding a new section, if necessary..  The inside appears ok.  I will flush, then determine next steps.   Photos in next  Postings.

Dan    (Fly Bridge)    

Posted: March 24 2012 at 14:33 | IP Logged

Photo #2.   Fill opening is on the other side, at top of "Slope" of tank.   There is a small rust-spot on bottom-side of tank, which is near the bottom of photo.    the 2 parallel lines from top to bottom, is where tank rested on rubber strips attached to 2 support lumber boards.

Posted: March 24 2012 at 14:43 | IP Logged

Photo#3.    In bilge, view is looking towards Aft, to Stern, where the 2 tanks were located.  Starbd. engine, on left of photo.  Port engine removed, and "tranny" in-place.   I TOLD you fellows bilge was a MESS!! LOL!!     I'll get to fixing this with some elbow grease, and ...WHITE PAINT!!!!

Posted: March 24 2012 at 14:50 | IP Logged

Photo #4.  View is looking Aft to Stern, and towards EMPTY spot where gas tank was located.  Below the  the square-shaped box, (Bennett Trim Tab Controls) is the Stainless cover over the rudder linkage.  The 2 long boards  is where the gas tanks were located on.  Boards are uncut, and transverse the entire width of bilge.  Starbd. engine and tranny, in-place.   I access the rudder and linkage from the Aft Hatch, just above the tanks.  I can get into the space easily, between the rear of tanks and the Stern.

Going to start cleaning bilge, later today, after I take a rest-break!

WHEW!!!!    Dan.   (Fly Bridge)  

Posted: March 24 2012 at 15:21 | IP Logged

Guys marine toilets do I want to flush it with fresh water or raw ???? please advise thx

Posted: March 24 2012 at 15:35 | IP Logged

Jim:

I have NO experience with your question, but I have researched this before.  The problem I was told with sea water (Raw), is DO NOT leave sea water in toilet, when leaving the CC until the next time you Board Her again.  This can be accomplished by draining the sea water from the bowl, and re-fill with fresh water BEFORE departing.

With freshwater, you would not have a smell of "dead sea water".  sea water contains micro animals (plankton).   As you may surmise, they  need a constant supply sea water, as when they were in open waters.

Some guys have plumbed for FRESH WATER, because of the females prefer not to smell the sea water in the toilet. 

Could you "Plumb" for BOTH??    I look at the issue as, "When floating  in unending saltwater, FRESH water is a precious commodity".

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Posted: March 24 2012 at 23:28 | IP Logged

Hey, Gang. Floater, Pettit Unipoxy is good paint. I have used it in the past. Modified epoxy.

Jim, Dan is correct about the salt water smell. My head is salt water, but the smell is not too bad, my head usually drains to the lectrosan treatment system. Only drawback using freshwater, if you run out of freshwater, no can use head!! And you know our ladies!! A couple oz. of bleach will kill the smell.

Nite, All, H.

Posted: March 25 2012 at 14:24 | IP Logged

Capt.n Jim:  HH II

Jim, I removed engine while still at-berth, (That was a JOB!!)  and wheel-barrowed it to a trailer, and brought to my home.  I have it stripped to bare block now.  The block is mounted on a engine block holder, in my garage.   I haven't had the money to rebuild engine yet.  I have recently talked to a couple of guys that rebuild marine engines.  One fellow has a commerical garage on his home-property, and has rebuilt marine engines.  Just waiting on money at this point.  Meanwhile, I am puttering on Her getting things ship-shape, that require not much money.  I got labor covered though!!

What have taken-apart so far is, but need parts to complete:

Port and Starbd. gas tanks.  Removed Port sliding windows and channels, to insert 1/4 inch "FUR-LIKE"weatherstripping.   Blige blower.   Port engine.    Fuel filters for Strbd. engine.  Refinish teak swim platform.  Paint and degreaser for bilge.  Finish sanding and paint for "Bottom-job.  Both brass props to take to Prop shop, to re-cut the edges and check-out.  Port rudder to repair, at the Prop Shop, to repair the crack.

I purchased CC while wet-slip berthed.  Port engine locked-up, due to risers leaking.  I have installed NEW risers on Starboard engine.  Both engines were new, and installed 1/30/2004.  The engines are Mercruiser

The Carb. Cover has HORIZON: 350 MPI, written on top of both engines.

PORT engine:  (OUT of Engine) The first digit is # not a letter.

SERIAL: 0M317013    * First digit is a "Zero".

MODEL:  33500131S

STRBD.  engine:   In bilge.

SERIAL: 0M393398   *First digit is a "Zero".

MODEL:   33500167S

I tried to look-up these numbers, but had problem with getting NO..search result on Mercruiser web Site for PORT ENGINE (Out)  SERIAL Number:  0M317013  *The first digit is a "ZERO" as in ..a NUMBER.

In any case, both engines are a Horizon, and installed 2004 year as NEW engines.   I have the original paperwork on the engines, that gives Serial and Model NUMBERS, but no names, etc.  The Mercruiser Web site section Parts Express, does let me convert Serial number to a MODEL NAME.   Search under  Model number is confusing to me.

Clean part of the bilge yesterday.  I pulled the bilge screw-in plug, in the Forward cabin bilge.  Then hosed-down  the center bilge.  From just under the Salon, to Stern (Transom), I have 5 total blige compartments.   2 compartment bilges are Non-Drain).  Which are: HULL-SIDE and ENGINE compartments.   And a "Center" "Keel" bilge that drains to Forward.  The 2 Non-drain bilges are, , ...ON EACH SIDE.   Lots more cleaning to do, then I'll degrease.   The fiberglass color was painted (I think)  Green.

PHOTOS:   Starboard engine, top view.    And bilge after wash-down and before degreasing.

Thanks for interest and help.   Hope wife is better, Jim.

Dan   (Fly Bridge)