Posted: January 31 2012 at 17:14 | IP Logged

haha...I just realized:

Floater - goes to the surface

Diver - goes to the bottom

funny how things are so balanced 

Posted: January 31 2012 at 17:20 | IP Logged

Capn's:   have a problem.  Must cut deck to allow both gas tanks (100 gal. each) to take out of bilge.  Port tank may be no good.  Strbd. is not leaking. 

What I desire to accomplish is, make a "Hatch" from existing deck. The "NEW Hatch", will incorporate the old Aft hatch.

My problem is deciding which way would be the BEST way to cut the deck.  I took photos.  I placed 2x4's on TOP of deck to SHOW where the STRINGERS are UNDER the deck.  I also marked BLACK LINES to show a BEAM to BEAM cut, which I THINK may work.   However, if I cut Beam to Beam, or AFT to FORWARD (joining both old hatches)  I WILL NEED TO CUT THE STRINGERS.

My thoughts are, there is TWO ways to CUT.   

1.  AFT to FORWARD, which will join old hatches.

2.   BEAM to BEAM (Black Lines)

Maybe someone has  experience with cutting a deck the BEST WAY, without doing alot of re-stringer work.    If more photos is needed, I'll post more photos.

Fly Bridge.....Dan

PHOTOS BELOW. 

Posted: January 31 2012 at 17:28 | IP Logged

Needed to add another photo, showing old hatches REMOVED.

Fly Bridge.....Dan

Posted: January 31 2012 at 20:42 | IP Logged

Dan, is there a platform that the ful tanks sit on or is it a craddle?  Is there any thing under the tanks that can be removed so you can tip the tanks on end? 

What are the stringers you are referring to?  Are they deck supports?

Posted: January 31 2012 at 20:48 | IP Logged

Capt'n Mark:  Both  tanks sit in a CRADLE.  TWO  over-size 2x4's shaped to prevent roll.  bottom of tanks is below boards. very secure.

Stringers, are DECK supports.

Dan

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:00 | IP Logged

Dan,

Have you located replacemnet tanks?  Is it possible to cut the old tanks to remove them and replace them with after market fuel cells that can fit throuhg the existing hatches?  If you start cutting the latteral supports on your deck, you'll probably need to put a vertical brace in olace.

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:08 | IP Logged

Dan,

I'm not following your description of the measurements. 

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:08 | IP Logged

No, have not found replacement tank(s) MIGHT be able to salvage old, but probably better to replace.  new metal tanks will have be custom made, so will be expensive, no doubt, 

Yes I thought about lateral braces.  Could glass-in new boards also.  The Aft hatch would be larger.

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:10 | IP Logged

Dan,

The replacement tanks should be aluminum.  I would look at every possible way to get those old tanks out without cutting the deck.  You don't want to do that.

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:13 | IP Logged

Dan,

Does anyone on the Commander site have any advice?

Posted: January 31 2012 at 21:14 | IP Logged

The CUT, will enlarge the Aft hatch by 21 inches on both sides. Original Hatch is 36 inches beam to beam (across). 

Tank is 60 inches long by 24 inches diameter. 

the BLACK LINES denote "CUT" I would make to enlarge Aft hatch.     The CUT would also extend half-way between existing hatches.

Posted: January 31 2012 at 22:59 | IP Logged

Hi Dan,

Interesting....

How about cutting that decking between those fore and aft hatches to create a 'middle' semi permenent hatch? You would not need to cut any fore/aft beams and this would open up the entire deck area. 

The Port/starboard beams (with decking attached) could be modified to continue their load bearing function. This one piece assembly would become load-bearing-but-remova ble semi perminant hatch. Perhaps using alunimum or steel 'L'  or 'U' extrusions with aligned holes thru all pieces using nuts/bolts? This would serve to 'lock' the abrift beams together when reassembled. It would also provide support surfacesfor the existing fore/aft hatches.  Also, these metal links pieces should eliminate 'sag'. You might be able to install verticle supports metal 'shoes'  using the hull stringers as footings. Be sure the stringes there are strong enough for downward force or are reinforced to become sufficiently load bearing.  

Question is: Will the idea provide enough space to pull out both old tanks and install replacments?

In any case, I agree with Mark. replacment with Alunimum tankage is the way to go.

This, in some form or other---is doable. 

best, Roy    

Posted: February 01 2012 at 08:13 | IP Logged

Dan,

I agree with Roy.  To cut away the original hatch hole would be a nightmare.  Remove the section between the hatches with the idea that you will re-install it in a way that it will function as it did prior to cutting. 

I would still eliminate all possible ways to extrude those tanks without carving up your deck.

Posted: February 01 2012 at 10:33 | IP Logged

Captains:  Mark:  Roy, and Jim.

Appreciate you input.  I don't want to cut the deck either. 

I researched  greatly online.  I even seen a video showing a large boat with 300 gall fuel tank, having the BOTTOM of boat being cut, to "Drop" the fuel tank to remove from the boat.  Believe it when I say, It hurt even me!!  

A  Forward to Aft  cut could work, and not cutting the two inboard deck stringers.   But cutting the "middle" between the two existing hatches,  I fear the  clearence is tight because tanks "split" the hatch opening centerline.  Tanks measure 24 inches in diameter, and hatch opening is 36 inches. Keel Stringers prevent tank from dropping lower.  The tank to be removed MUST "Swing" Fore to Aft, and lay angled somewhat.   Without futher study, I would hate to cut, then find out it ALMOST comes out, but doesn't.   A  Beam to Beam Hatch opening will  more easily allow present and future tank removal.  But requires cutting the two inboard Deck support Stringers.

I do NOT understand why boat manufactors "BURY" fuel tanks, with NO ACCESS for removal!!   That's like burying engines with no access.  Just doesn't make sense to me.  On this CC, a larger hatch beam to beam COULD have been designed into the CC, at time of build.  But they didn't!!

I'm not going to make any rash moves.  Still thinking.  No doubt the Strbd. tank will eventually  require removal .  So keeping that in mind, I want to make sure whatever is done now, will insure there is no repeat of this problem now.

All in all, tank removal cannot proceed, until  satisfied the right decision is made.  I DO appreciate all the thoughtful help, and information.  Will keep you all posted.  I will take my time to think this through, so it will be some time before I post something definite.  If you guys have any other ideas, let me know!! 

Dan   (Fly Bridge)

Posted: February 01 2012 at 11:01 | IP Logged

Dan, is it possible to have them cut up and removed in pieces?  Then the replacement tank(s) would need to fit thru the existing hatches.  If I had to replace the ones on MyWay this is how I would have gone about it.  I am sure you have already considered this.  I too am with the others on not cutting the deck unless the deck is delaminated and in poor condition and needs replacement anyway.  Is your deck similar to the 251 and 280/1 Catalinas where it is all one molded piece with the unside gunnels?  It is hard to tell from the photos if there is a seam/joint between the deck and sides.  If there is a seam, what about removing the entire dexk and keep the cuts and repairs in the corner perimeter?

Jim, regarding that ladder....can the new one be cut to fit to go from 22" to 20" and just reinstall the caps on the bottom of the legs?  Post up a photo of what you have when you get the chance.

Posted: February 01 2012 at 17:15 | IP Logged

Dan,

Don't even think about repairing your old tanks.  They are in poor shape and without a doubt full of rust & debris.  You would spend a good amount of $ching to do a half assed job. 

To cut out the deck between the hatches to remove the tanks, you might have to position one tank to give you more room to remove the other one.

Posted: February 01 2012 at 20:53 | IP Logged

Jim,

Are you wanting to install said steps inside the cockpit or on the dive platform? If something for the cockpit, I suggest something like this:

Step folds up and the folding supports bear lots of weight and abuse.  Makes a nice seat too. I have one port and starboard. This step is stock Gerlick.  I installed the legs after cutting them to length, debburing the sharp ends and adding rubber feet. Without the legs, my 1st step's framing failed after 2 years. Had to replace with a second with the legs added. I weigh 250.

Gang,

Here is a study of some of the cockpit detail:

above Cockpit lounge

Lounge center section folds up for Lazzeratte access. Side seats also fold up. The whole thing is easily removable and stowed aboard. Lots of storage space underneath. All pillows are easily removed making a stage of sorts for whatever needs to be loaded. Also a handy low table for working on the engine, stowing parts/tools during servicing.

Lounge stowed.

Starboard section only.

Also Jim, you can see where that step is positioned.

Cockpit hardtop: Note searchlight controls and switch, solar air venting. The two wooden pieces are for handheld VHF holsters I used for a intercom system I designed using David Clark aircraft headsets- The boat is really lowd at speed and the headsets cut 25 dB.

You can see the push-to-talk switch (PTT) along with one of the headsets. I know it's a bit much- but it works well under way and really reducees fategue from engine noise while still havinf VHF function. We can pipe in music too.

This is the DVD,CD, MP3 unit. Above this shot is the portside statiuom - not the i Tune mounted on its goosneck.

Above- for privacy we put 2 pieces on top of each other. This material is from Costco. It the shelf non sliding material---very private- doesn't slide around.

Pilot station detail

Hope some of the ideas stimulate some thinking.

Roy

Posted: February 02 2012 at 23:14 | IP Logged

Hey, Gang. Sorry I havn't posted latley. Been out of town on biz, just got back from Charleston S.C.

Jim, hope Sunshine is doing well, Bonnie says Hi. Lotsa good stuff going on, Flybridge, tough call, you share the same hull as Mystic Diver, but deck configuration is different. My tanks sit directly on the stringers. The stringers have a "cutout" that cradles the tanks. If I had to replace tanks in my boat I would  cut the deck to creat a larger hatch opening. Accsess to my tank/rudder has always been an issue. Lotsa work and $$$$ but I would try to rebuild a larger hatch after new tanks were installed. I ain't a small guy and engine/machinery/bilge accsess is a pet peeve of mine. Even on large boats, the designers cut corners and make accsess to valves, wiring, etc. impossible. Nite, All, H.

Posted: February 04 2012 at 16:27 | IP Logged

Hey Capt Steve welcome back ! Thanks so much for asking we are fine here. Getting ready for our new mate ! Maybe Sunday we will go for a boat ride then come home and watch the Giants beat NE !!!!! We will see have to see what the weather does. Hope you had a good trip !

Diver great Pictures !

Hope you all have a great weekend

Dan Dont Cut the decK

Posted: February 04 2012 at 18:19 | IP Logged

Hi,

I went to check out some things on the boat today and found this in a locker.

Is it a Chris Craft part?

It is about 18inches long but I can't work out where it fits.

Ian

Posted: February 04 2012 at 22:02 | IP Logged

That looks like the cover for the galley storage that is at the
back of my countertop.

Ian, what year is yours again?

Jim

Posted: February 05 2012 at 12:26 | IP Logged

Hi,

Thanks for the info, the galley looks like it has been modified so it might not fit now. I will have another look in 3 weeks time when we get the boat

Ian

Posted: February 05 2012 at 17:18 | IP Logged

Sorry Jim

The boat is a 1984 (but there are no details to confirm this)

Ian