Posted: September 12 2006 at 21:19 | IP Logged

Ahoy Catalina Owners - just discovered this posting and thought I'd say hello.  Own a 1977 280 - been working on her since my uncle willed her to me 2 years ago.  Kept in the Potomac River at Washington, DC.

Terrific boat with classic lines.  Still working the engine - periodic fuel starvation with gas in the tank.  Original Marine Power 305K.  Similar experiences?

Cheers!

Posted: September 13 2006 at 20:44 | IP Logged

Great idea - old engines and methanol may not mix.

Actually, problem is probably a pinhole leak in the fuel line sucking air and creating a bubble in the carb.

Also, a mechanic recommended a carb wedge so the carb would sit more level.

Still searching.

Posted: October 28 2006 at 14:58 | IP Logged

Hi all,

I just thought I'd ring in as I may look to you, my fellow Chris Craft, and specifically, Catalina, owners for info.

Pop-Pop, where on the upper Ches?  We are on the Bohemia, TRYB.

Happy boating to all (and to all a good night?)!!!

Barry

Posted: November 17 2006 at 20:31 | IP Logged

I have gotten other strange parts (fuel pump rebuild kit and distributer parts) from Mustang Depot in NV.

http://www.mustangdepot.com

I also sent some links via email.

Barry

Posted: December 11 2006 at 21:02 | IP Logged

Hello,

I posted this question on the main forum, but I may get a better response from this message board.

I'm looking at a 1979 280 Catalina.  Hull looks good, but the 305 has alot of hours (1500).  Any advice as to what else i should look for?

Thanks!

Posted: December 12 2006 at 19:42 | IP Logged

If you are concerned about the hours, you might want to have an engine survey done.  I did it when I purchased my 350 and it was well worth it.  Got a list of good, bad, and ugly.  At least I knew where I stood.  At least do a compression test.

Posted: December 12 2006 at 20:03 | IP Logged

Good advise.  I'm trying to find a surveyor in my area (Western Lake Eire), so I'll stress having him do the compression test.  Does 1500 hours seem excessive for a 1979?

Posted: December 12 2006 at 22:44 | IP Logged

First, my surveyor did not test engines.  I had to hire a marine mechanic to get that done ($300).  Second, I purchased my 1980 with 1050 hours.  It had only been run for 10 hours the previous season.  The testing showed 2 cylinders with 50-60 psi.  Should be about 150.  However it still runs great.  Debating what to do as it is likely rings, not top-end.

Doing some quick calculations, 1500 hours on a 27 year old boat is about 55 hours per season.  I put 70 on mune this year...

The only real issue I have had was with the mechanical fuel pumps.  They did not take a rebuild too well and I eventually had to replace them with electrics.  I suspect that is why it only had 10 hours on it the previous season.  I have all the papers and a decent log from the previous 2 owners.

Anywhere neear an aquaintance of mine?  Shoreline Yacht Sales

http://www.yachtworld.com/shorelineyachtsales/index.html

Posted: December 13 2006 at 20:34 | IP Logged

I'm near Cleveland, but have been to Grand Rapids regularly for business.  Thanks for the info on the engine.  Good to know what I may be looking at. 

Do you have any more pictures posted of your boat?  I like the looks of it.

I want to get this looked at before the holidays, just so I'm not thinking about it.

Posted: December 15 2006 at 00:10 | IP Logged

When I have some time I will configure a web page with more pictures, inside, outside, and guts (engine room and stuff).

Good luck with the purchase and enjoy the holidays.

Barry

Posted: December 18 2006 at 21:36 | IP Logged

I would like to add a windlass to my 1880 Catalina 350.  Has anyone done this?  Any suggestions on a bow pulpit, or other necessities?  Maybe some photos?

Thanks, Barry

Posted: January 03 2007 at 11:35 | IP Logged

 We had a fuel starving problem on my 280/ single 305 too. We found the anti-siphon valve hunging up with some sort of debris from the fuel tank. The debris was not allowing the valve to travel correctly into the fully open position. This restricted fuel flow and we were unable to throttle up over 3300 RPM. The valve is located where the fuel line connects to the fuel tank. There is also a shut off valve there. Don't get confused, there are two components.

Posted: January 03 2007 at 11:41 | IP Logged

I recommend replacing the starter with a rebuilt one.  Less hastle and you get a warrenty. Use the old one to match up for correct mounting.

Posted: January 03 2007 at 11:53 | IP Logged

1500 hours is the end times for most marine gas engines. Compression test will tell a lot. The game plan on my 850hr engine is staying on maintenance, oil analysis every oil change, keeping a close eye on the coolong system.  For the boat itself, if the electricals are solid, the hull is bullet proof assuming no inpacts or odvous damage.

Posted: January 06 2007 at 15:48 | IP Logged

Any idea how much I'll be looking at to rebuild? ($1k, 5k, 10k)?  I'm trying to get an idea what to offer, knowing I will have this done.

Thanks for the help!

Posted: January 07 2007 at 00:06 | IP Logged

Buying a long block, manafolds, riser and a professional mechanic's help (highly recommended) might cost $4,000+/-. 

Consider installing the same Mfg'r engine and year/casting # as the old block and heads.  Use the usable old or identical bolt-ons. Installing the same engine is easiest. The footprint doesn't need to be changed.

A crated new engine is $5K+, add shipping, add footprint alterations etc, can get expensive.

Posted: January 07 2007 at 16:44 | IP Logged

Thanks guys.

I'm not looking to recreate this thing.  I just want to get on the water, and feel confident that I'll make it back to the dock.  At least I have an idea what the boat is worth as-is.  It seems that this is being repossed by the boat yard (behind on fees?), so maybe I can get it for a good price.  It seems like a slow process, though.  Luckily I've got 3 months until spring!

Posted: January 07 2007 at 21:19 | IP Logged

Here's the story on this boat:

The owner was asking $7k (according to the sign on the hull).  I made numerous calls to him without a response.  I was driving passed the yard and saw someone parked in front of the boat, so I stopped and asked if he knew who the owner was.  It turned out he was the owner.  Told him I was interested, he showed me around, and gave me all the info.  A few days later called him back to talk about price.  No response.  Many more calls.  Same thing.  So I talked the the manager of the yard to see what the story was.  That's when he said it was in the process of being taken over (the papers had just been sent to the owner).  I gave him my card and told him I was interested before it makes it to auction.

The hull is in great shape.  The interior is dated, but relatively clean.  The motor is my only concern, although the owner said that it ran good (for what his word is worth!)  I'll probably contact the yard again this week.  It could be a good purchase if I could pick it up for under $5k.  Any thoughts???

Posted: January 10 2007 at 12:39 | IP Logged

Sharkie if the boat is in Ohio which I assume it is as you said you are near Cleveland it has to go to auction thats the law and the price has to be within not sure on this but I think 2/3 of value by an appraiser. Don't remember but I have seen the notice posted on boats at my marina being sold for storage. A full rebuild on a small block Chevy will run about $1500 if you reassemble the motor. That included all parts and machine work and the machine shop put the cam bearings in. I am reassembling the motor myself there is a thread over on the forum at http://chriscraftcommander.com about it with pictures. I live in Parma so if you want send me a private message and I will help you anyway I can.

Posted: January 10 2007 at 20:10 | IP Logged

Welcome, Mark.  Sharkie, check out Marks rebuild.  Great pictures.

Here's the link directly to Mark's rebuild... http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/thread/1163817431/350Q +Reassembly

Barry

Posted: January 10 2007 at 20:42 | IP Logged

Barry / Mark

Thanks for the good info!  I'll wait to see what happens.  Cleveland boat show is next week (I'm in Avon Lake), so I can see what's available.

Great pictures.  They may come in handy.

Frank

Posted: January 24 2007 at 10:15 | IP Logged

Hi pop pop and blues barge. I kept my 25 catalina and later my 33 corinthian at two rivers. Later moved Mystic Diver II to North Point Marina in Rock Hall, Md. Relocated to Stuart Fl. in 2001. Miss the Chesapeak but not the cold weather. Still have my 33 corinthian, owned it for 17 years. Trying to sell it and buy a 30 foot Lurhs Alura, single engine. With gas costs up, i can't go out as much as i like

Posted: February 19 2007 at 23:55 | IP Logged

On Fuel stavation:

1)make sure all the fuel cocks are open.

2) Check anti siphen valve at fuel tank- some debris from the tank may have hung up the valve

Posted: May 16 2007 at 21:06 | IP Logged

Hello All,

It's been a while since any postings.  The 280 I've been waiting for goes up for auction in another month or so.  The cabin has been stripped of about half of the cushions, and there is about 3" to 4" of water sitting in the bottom.  Does this mean the motor is shot, or has anyone seen this happen and still have the motor run?  I'm begining to wonder if I'd be better off buying something in a little better shape...

Sharkie

Posted: May 16 2007 at 22:10 | IP Logged

For Sharkie and the auction boat, what year is she?  We have redone all the cushions on our '77 281 so could give you dimensions of missing cushions.

And for all Chris Craft owners, while on our spring shakedown runs in the Potomac, one of our marina mates was heard to say, "Now there is a good looking boat!"  Well, duh!

Can't tell about the water but when our boat showed up at Bolling AFB marina on the trailer from Lake Scugog north of Toronto it had water in it above the top pf the stringers but the engine still ran, so water in the bilge shouldn't be an engine issue.

Now questions for the forum.

My fuel gauge is inop and I can't find any tech data on the sending unit or the gauge.  I believe the gauge is okay since it displays fuel readings intermittently.  Has anyone worked on the sending unit and have some hints?  The quarters are pretty tight so want good advice so I don't waste too many contorted minutes.

Secondly, there is a large amount of crud in my gas tank as proven by two engine shutdowns after running fine at 3/4 throttle for over an hour - the secondary filter (at the carb) was full of gritty dirt both times.  The primary filter has been off line so that will be the main fix, but what might be other actions I can take to remove loose crud from an old metal tank.  With the E10 problem, I kind of want to keep the original tank as there are no leaks or other issues.

Cheers, Michigan68 

Posted: May 16 2007 at 23:48 | IP Logged

Re the fuel guage issue: When my fuel sensing system went south, I first checked th make sure the  connections were good on the guage and sender. I replaced the sending unit first and wa-la, that was it.  This may be aguess as to which it is, but the sender gets a lot more abuse and you tank is dirty.To replace, you will need to remove the old sending unit and measure the tube that goes inside and I.D. it. You can also ID the sender by what kind of guage you have, my 280 uses Steurt Warner guages and senders are availible. A way to test the sender is while it's out, remove all wires and use an ohm meter on the contacts (sometimes there is only one lead and you use chassis ground) and see if you get a smooth change in resistance as you actuate the float assy. If it drops out or resistance jumps around, it's probobly bad. Be especially careful with doing a good gob of sealing up the sender hole when installing the new sender. Make sure you do not drop anything into the tank( although it may not make much differance in your case). I did this and the debris ended up jamming up the anti syphen valve on the tank.

Junk in the fuel tank: get a Pro to look at this. Most tanks are baffled so as to reduce splashing under way. This limits access for cleaning. The procedure involves pumping and filtering out all fuel and washing out the tank if it's not rusted and there's access.- again, have a pro look at it. This can be very dangerous work if not done correctly.

                                All the best! Roy