Posted: August 22 2011 at 15:26 | IP Logged

 Hello Cat. Owners : I have a Cat.251 1985 and need help with the rubber around the side windows, my connors have come out and shrunk back and I did not know if I should use a heat gun to heat them up and then try to stretch them back into the frame????    Also I am having blowback through the gas fill port when I release the pump handle ??  If anyone can advise me on these I would be greatful!!

                           Thanks

                            Rick

Posted: August 23 2011 at 21:25 | IP Logged

Hi Rick,

You might want to inquire as to the window issue on the larger Cat forum- the one with the large # of posts. There has been a lot of activity relating to the windows. The 251 and 280 window setups are bacically the same. On my 280, I have seem some shrinkage on those black rubber pieces inside the frame. However, I've' seen no leaks because of that.  If you are not leaking, I suggest leave it be. Just keep the area clean with a light scrub when the boat is washed.

On the fuel blowback: Normally there is a exhaust tube at the top of the fueltank to exhaust air as the tank fills and to let air in as fuel is consumed. On 280s as I suspect on 251s, this tube runs aft between the fiberglass hull/interor moldings. You should be able to follow the tube with a flashlight and mirror. There's a fitting on the side of the hull where the exhaust exits- You should be able to sopt it on  hull and get an idea of how it's routed. I'm guessing something's clogged or kinked- you shound be able to easily blow thru it. 

best, Roy (diver)

Posted: September 09 2011 at 15:28 | IP Logged

Thank You Roy, I have found the vent line from the gas tank to the hull, it had a crushed vent cap, I replased it , will add fuel sat.   As for the rubber around the windows , I will leave it alone for now but would like to replace it over the winter. Any ideas as to where I can get this rubber for these windows??

           Kinggeorge

Posted: January 29 2012 at 19:48 | IP Logged

Kinggeorge,

I think you have two seperate issues here.

No light on the fuel guage is either a bad bulb- (easly replaced) or the 12 vdc power to that one guage lamp has a bad connection.  The illumination circuit is independent of the actual function of the guage as evidenced by a panel switch for the night light function to all panel guages.

No fuel guage indication troubleshooting starts with checking power to the fuel tank sender. Disconnect the sender wire, check for 12VDC (ignition switch on). If that's good, remove the sender and check for its variable resistence function. removal is really the only way to chack that the grounding is ok.  Steurt Warner is the OEM for 280 guages and are readily availible along with all needed spec/install data on-line.  Careful, all screws on the senders tank-port are probably corroded. Use WD 40 for 48 hrs first, then carefully, remove the sender. Do not let disassembly debris fall into the tank-clean the area well first before disassembley. All this is around gasoline- be very careful.  

best, Roy    

Posted: February 18 2012 at 22:53 | IP Logged

Hi 99,

Great looking boat you have there Skipper! Don't you love the Cat's line? Classic...

Yup, removing the head's bulkhead gives you good access. With your throttle/shifters on the console, dealing with the attendent cabling and the wiring for twin engines makes creating good temperary access an important  1st step. I use a tackle box resting on the wheel hub and supporting the console's front lip to allow access underneath there. Our 280's single shifter is on the strboard bulkhead. Probably makes dealing with this kind of thing easier than with a twin setup.

Re the tranny cooler: Hmm- quick fix. What's the problem? On Mercruisers, the tranny exchanger is low, portside of the engine next to the oil pan, clamped to the block by one bolt.

AS part of the Catalina Forum, I have found being as discriptive as possible with all details is a good thing. Assume I know nothing of your boats issues and go from there.  I have found that the process of working out how to describe the situation helps clarify things for you also.  Photos are invaluable...

Some basic info:  

What Mfg'r are your engines?

What is you mechanical ability and you willingness or physical ability to use them?

Do you have the money to hire a marine mechanic? If there are indeed issues with the tranny cooler, removal of heavy parts 1st may be in order.

Online consult with Marine engines.com may be productive. I think this is the link but any search online may bear fruit. 

best, Roy

Posted: February 22 2012 at 14:07 | IP Logged

yes i was a little on the vague side....these boats are nice...i can see the starboard side cooler and it is low..the other side you cant see.. i have a manual so i have the basic drawing of it.  im thinking i could take the hose off at the pump if i had to and pull the whole thing back but i have the bolt holding it to the block that will prevent that from being easy....ill spar it all with wd40 a few days before and if the bolt comes out it shouldnt be too hard other than ill be upside down reaching around corners blindly....i have 305's that were put in in 2004. if i cant do it ill get the part and there is a marine mech that advertises 25 per hour---its not a skill fix its more a can u work in those conditions!!!!!your boats looks great!!!!

Posted: February 22 2012 at 21:39 | IP Logged

Hi 99,

Thank you for you kind words! Yours looks great too... They are cool boats.  Thought I recognized the engine...Radio175 is it? something like that....

Anyway- cool!- Also, I recall we share the same pilot fan. Think we exchanged notes on that.

Regarding the $25 mechanic, I urge caution. Word of mouth with other boat owners is a good source- that's how we found ours.  Another way is if you have something else engine related,... ask the 'mechanic' to fix something less critical first and see how that comes out.   When it comes to engines, my modus operendi is: all work of this type is skilled. It's not necessarily the taking apart (although that too takes attention and experience)- it's the putting back together.  When we use him, our mechanic's rate is $95 hr plus travel-(that's SanFrancisco $s- maybe less expensive where you are). For that we get a guarrenteed, done right the first time result. And, after a few fixes- a real handy  free consultent providing solid advise and connections like for people who rebuild starters etc. Worth every penny. I save $$ assisting and learn learn by watching. I make a point of setting things up: removing seats, opening hatches, clearing the bilge and cockpit and as needed- a gofer.

Before you start pulling things apart, My thinking is that it seems unlikely you would have the same problem with both tranny coolers at the same time. What spacifically are you experiencing? Oil slick out the one of the exhausts pipes? Tranny oil or Water leak in the bilge?  Low flow out the back, overheating?

Best, Roy

Posted: February 25 2012 at 19:58 | IP Logged

originally i had an oil slick out the port exhaust...something made me check the transmission and it was cloudy so i changed the fluid which made the slick worse...now i think its leakin so bad that i have some overflow coming out the small valve on top of the transmission..im going to try and do it myself...the hardest part i believe will be the one bolt holding to the block as i think i can reassemble the new one with the hoses and lines on it and pull it thru...again it will be re installing that bolt...maybe ill get luck and the bolt isnt even there!!! or maybe ill get mad and bypass the cooler as i  just cruise the canals anyway...

yes if i bring in a mechanic for anything i always do as much prep as possible...the cheap marine mechanic doesnt have to accomplish anything but take it off and put it on..ill change the fluids and check for leaks the first few times......

but sometimes when u go cheap it kills you!!!

yes im radio375 on the other chris craft board... i think i was on this one first but not many people seem to use it....i come to san francisco every couple years--maybe our paths will cross!!

Posted: February 28 2012 at 17:57 | IP Logged

Hi 99,

Wow! you did the ceiling!

Yup, I remember you having this tranny issue. Never got solved...hmm. I tend to agree. Doing the portside cooler 1st, even if access is harder seems logical. 

Port cooler: 'Cloudy' meaning white or gray colored ATF... or some other color or dirty- pieces of stuff in it?  You changed out the ATF making the slick worse...that does suggest a hole. I'm also assuming you have put little or no hours on the engine because of this problem (risk of blowing tranny) so you have been unable to see if the leak lowers the fluid level after running for a while. Starboard side is ok...right?  Replacing that portside cooler makes sense to me.

Only two ways I can see how water could get into the tranny:

1) leaking exchanger. One point though- tranny oil is under a lot more pressure than the water flowing thru- if there's a hole, this ATF side hi pressure pushes the ATF out, hence the slick. When the engine shuts down and if its a big hole, it's possible having no ATF back pressure could allow water to back fill into the tranny. Remember that there will also be little or no water pressure when the engine shut's down too. When you changed out the ATF, beyond overfilling the tranny, did the white/gray color return or is the color ok?

 2) Bilge filled up with water hi enough to get into the tranny fill port.

best, Roy

Posted: February 28 2012 at 22:03 | IP Logged

CAPTAINS:  A bit out of the forum normal Posting, but I JUST HAD to share this YouTube video, with you fellows. 

Fly Bridge.        

http://youtu.be/Y27LSPcbeB4

Posted: February 29 2012 at 08:04 | IP Logged

99,

After some thought, I realized it's entirely possible to get volumes of water into the tranny. There are two ATF lines to the cooler. One going to it and one returning. It's possible for a hole to be such that water is sucked into the return hose. That said, it still leaves the situation the same- replacing the cooler. The only way I see will be to remove the portside manifold and elbow. That's the way it is sometimes with boats....oh well. If that is indeed the case, then you might as well service stuff like the sparkplugs, wires, clean, paint the block and go thru the both manifolds and elbows checking for rust buildup and crud. As you have already seen, the cooling system on these things are the weak point anyway...may as well check everything else. Take advantage since its gotta come out anyway...leaving the situation as is will eventually cause the tranny to fail...sorry. 

All of this as a project really depands on how you use the boat. Hanging dockside is as latigimate an activity as any,  it gives you relaxation and peace- it's working ... and I like that!!

Anyway, food for thought.

Roy  

Posted: March 01 2012 at 20:24 | IP Logged

Sounds good! lemme know if I can help