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 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Chris Craft
Subject Topic: cleaning sea water filters Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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tomconfusion
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 22 2010
Posts: 15
Posted: July 21 2010 at 04:25 | IP Logged Quote tomconfusion

I have been told that adding swimming pool cleaning agents, mostly a bromide compound, to the sea water filters for the air conditioning and genset will inhibit the growth of algae and help keep them clean. I'm all for clean, but wonder if the chemicals will have a bad effect on the hoses, pump impellers, etc. that the intake water comes in contact with. Has anyone had any experience with this practice? Thank you in advance for your advice/assistance.

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???tom
Maintenance Officer
1984 381 Catalina
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TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: July 29 2010 at 22:25 | IP Logged Quote TStellato



I just saw your post.  Our mechanic told us just the other day to do the same, since this summer has been so hot and stagnat.  He said that it will not hurt anything.  We put them in this week.  and will continue to do so for the summer.


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Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
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diveryates
"Lieutenant"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 845
Posted: July 30 2010 at 11:18 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Tomconfusion,

Sounds good to me. I guess the assumption is that the bromide is placed inside the raw water filter housing in tablet form and that's it's not so large as to inhibit flow and desolves gradually as in a hot tub. Tablets in hot tubs do desolve fairly quickly, perhaps the tub's hot water accelerates the affect and may be slower in  a boat's raw, cold water? Ease of access to the filter housing for periodic tablet replacement may also play a part.  Bromide in powder (I'm not even sure it's sold like that) would wash away as soon as flow starts, eliminating the intended affect.

Best, Diver



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Bay Area
'83 280, hardtop, single 305
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tomconfusion
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 22 2010
Posts: 15
Posted: July 31 2010 at 03:40 | IP Logged Quote tomconfusion

Diveryates and TStellato

Thank you for your assistance. I know that this summer has been very good for growing green things, milfoil, algae, etc. so the idea seemed to have merit. Our 1984 Catalina 381 has seawater filters on the A/C and genset intakes, but not on the seawater pickups for the main engines so will at least put tablets in these.

We also have a 1965 Cavalier that is having an engine overheat probablem that seems to be related to a reduced flow at the seawater intakes which I believe is due to algae growth; however this one has no filters also so I guess it will be into the water and under the boat with a scrub brush for me.

Tomconfusion



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???tom
Maintenance Officer
1984 381 Catalina
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diveryates
"Lieutenant"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 845
Posted: July 31 2010 at 14:07 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Hi Tomconfusion,

Good deal Tom. Sounds like you're on the case with the Cavalier. Can you discribe the engine's cooling system? I can narrow my response based your knowledge, saves time.

For me, writing, sketching out or just mulling-over the problem for a while helps. The ability to pause, stand back and consider a problem is a skill in itself. Most times, troubleshooting comes down to the process of eliminating possibilities or the process of finding what's right instead of what's wrong- standard engineering method. This way, possibilities are eliminated without investing nothing more than brain time. Bouncing ideas back and forth with somebody skilled in the process helps. Been around the CC 280's a long time and I'm an medical equipent fix-it guy. I rely on this process if I don't know the system well- happens a lot! 

Best, Diver 



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Bay Area
'83 280, hardtop, single 305
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tomconfusion
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 22 2010
Posts: 15
Posted: July 31 2010 at 15:56 | IP Logged Quote tomconfusion

Hello Diver

The Cavalier has Chrysler 318 engines that use a Sherwood dual impeller water pump on each engine. I have installed new impellers in the port engine pump. The stb. engine is not overheating (for now!), but the port engine does overheat if operated at idle speed. It appears to cycle the thermostat if operated around 1800 RPM or faster.

The pumps have two inlets and outlets. The pump inlets are both connected to the seacock (one hose over the other). The hose from the pump's rear outlet goes to the oil cooler; the other hose from the pump's front outlet goes to the engine block. The Chrysler engines do not have a separate circulating pump like the GM engines for instance so the Sherwood pump performs both pick up and circulating duties. I have operated the engine with the hoses from the pump to the engine disconnected and get a good flow from the pump's rear (oil cooler) outlet, but little or no flow from the pump's front (engine) outlet. As the intake hose for the pump's oil cooler circuit is below the intake hose for engine cooling circuit on the seacock, I suspect my screens on the seacock are partially blocked with algae growth which is limiting the pump intake. Hence my over the side and under the boat with a scrub brush statement to clean out the intake screens.

The boat has a wooden hull so we do not take it out of the water except for major servicing. We had algae growth on my speedometer wheel and sending unit this spring sufficient to keep the little paddle wheel from rotating.

All advice and/or assistance is greatly appreciated. We even appreciate sympathy.



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???tom
Maintenance Officer
1984 381 Catalina
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diveryates
"Lieutenant"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 845
Posted: August 01 2010 at 15:03 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Hi Tom,

 

Excellent.  Odvously, eliminating the water intake system to the engine's cooling pump is step one. BTW, Do you have manuals?

System components:

Intake screen: I'm assuming the screen is a metal casting of some sort screwed to the outside hull and over the intake.  Suggest a waterproof (mini mag maybe) flashlight w/lanyard for a visual inspection and varous picky-pully tools like tweezers, forcepts, skinny screwdriver, razor etc to free up and pull out what's in there. better still, If you can remove the screen...? 

Shut off valve: Is it working correctly? Fully open and fully closed? Can you compare with the other one? The two I'm familiar with are the screw in/out type (older) and the 1/4 turn ball-type (newer, Better).

Inboard of the shut-off valve:  For the two hoses inboard of the shutoff valve, is the"Y' fitting seperate or intergal to the shutoff valve? With good flow at the oil cooler, that may eliminate the screen and the shutoff valve body if these are a seperate components. Suggest confirming shutoff valve function 1st, then checking the screen.  If you can't turn shut off that valve, you can't remove the 'Y' fitting (if seperate) for ' easy' service. It can be done, but bung plugs and water ingress would probobly be involved. The shutoff valve needs to operate correctly.

The other way to go at this is to temperarly plumb in hoses from the other engine's intake to the suspected engine's cooling pump.  See if the suspected engine's problem goes away, the problem is now confirmed to be in the intake system. If not, there's something amiss on the suspected engine.

If the thru valve's ok, you might try removing the hose at the 'Y' fittng and pulling out what's in there.

 or 

Sealing the hose end and trying to backflow whatever's in there out thru the shutoff valve with compressed air, a garden hose or both. Then picking out whatever's found through the hull-screen's grating or as it emerges from the hull-side of the shutoff valve.

Once you've cleared that suspected engine, do the other one- writing's on the wall obstruction-wise anyway.

best, Diver

 



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Bay Area
'83 280, hardtop, single 305
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tomconfusion
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 22 2010
Posts: 15
Posted: August 02 2010 at 11:45 | IP Logged Quote tomconfusion

Hello Diver

Yes, I have the engine manuals and supplements for the 318's.

Right now though I have a pick-up truck problem (mice ate part of the engine control wires) that has a higher priority than the boat. All the advice is good and much appreciated; however we will have to delay this story for a while while I fix the pick-up. Will get back to you with a progress report when I can get back on the boat. I need to get it working by the end of the month as we would like to move it about a 100 miles up river (the Tennessee River) in September. Right now the locks at Chickamauga Dam are closed so I have time to fix the pick-up.

BTW How in the world do you find the time to answer all these other folk's questions and problems?? You are definitely performing some kind of public service here.



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???tom
Maintenance Officer
1984 381 Catalina
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diveryates
"Lieutenant"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 845
Posted: August 02 2010 at 19:56 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

 

Tom,

The old mouse-ate-the-truck-thing huh? bummer. Can't haul boat-stuff without a boat-stuff hauler.

Nailing down your boat issues is just a matter of time. From what you've written, you have the clarity to do it.

In answer your question- I'm a professional troubleshooter. Situational and technical. Field servicing medical critical-care units is a very interesting stage on which to perform. Being a majic-man to non-technical staff is mostly smigens of experience and loads of B.S. Charlitons in history made a living- maybe I can too.  In the end as you might imagine and in many ways, it's very rewarding. I used to build (and God help me, race) kit-cars, restore (and God help me-shoot) anteque firearms, I'm a musician and have been around CC 280's since 2000...top to bottom, including the 'head'. Loosing my hearing too. When I bumped into the Boat US site, I discovered I enjoyed writing too.  It's a fantastic give an d take- after all, this is a motley bunch of for-reals from all over- God help us all to stay afloat! 

Looking back even just 15 years, the internet truely allows what seemed impossible, possible. I like that.

If you get stuck, let's pow-wow.

best, Diver  



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Bay Area
'83 280, hardtop, single 305
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tomconfusion
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: April 22 2010
Posts: 15
Posted: September 04 2010 at 18:32 | IP Logged Quote tomconfusion

Hello again Diver

Update on the overheat problem: as suspected, the cause was algae build-up on the seawater intake screens. Had to disconnect the fitting from the top of the seacock, open the seacock and push dock water hose with jet nozzle on end down the pipe. Water pressure blew out all the algae and all is well again. Did both intakes and ran engines for about 30 minutes at dock with thermostats cycling just fine. I guess I need to run the boat more often to keep the intakes cleaned off. Plan to replace the pump impellers in the other engine this week. Thanks again for your assistance.



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???tom
Maintenance Officer
1984 381 Catalina
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diveryates
"Lieutenant"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 845
Posted: September 07 2010 at 12:20 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

Cool Tom.

Stay in touch.

Roy



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Roy & Laurie, S.F. Bay Area
'83 280, hardtop, single 305
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