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Uniflite
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Uniflite
Subject Topic: Upgrading Alternators/goodpartsource Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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AlanC
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: May 27 2008
Posts: 15
Posted: June 17 2008 at 01:47 | IP Logged Quote AlanC

I just installed two new internally regulated 60 amp Valeo marine alternators to replace the two externally regulated 35 amp original Sev Marchal alternators which were having a hard time keeping up with the increased loads of extra battery banks and extra electronics. Installation was very simple except for working in the very tight confines of the uniflite engine bay . The only other addition was changing the original charge circuit fuses to 80 amp from 50 amp. No need to upgrade wire diameter unless going to larger capacity alternators. Total cost was in total about $600 Canadian including taxes and shipping. The Volvo dealers here wanted $1400 plus and Volvo doesn't make alternators.
Anyone interested in more detail on the install, just let me know.
 
Also I've found a very good source for parts with what I consider excellent pricing and service. They are an outfit out of Florida with an office in BC. They are at www.marinemanifold.com If they don't have it in stock, they can get it fast. The staff there is very helpful too. (No, I don't get anything for this plug.)

On the cruising side, We went to Hornby Island the weekend before last and spent this last Saturday and Sunday at Newcastle island in Nanaimo Harbour. Met quite a few nice boaters, kids and dogs doing the outdoor dock party thing. I wish we could have stayed a week!




__________________
Alan C.
Port Alberni, BC, Canada
1981 Uniflite 36 DC "First Class"
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BoatRDavid
"Seaman"




Joined: December 14 2006
Posts: 46
Posted: June 17 2008 at 19:49 | IP Logged Quote BoatRDavid

Nice work Alan.  I have purchased a new Balmar alternator and an external regulator for it.  I have not installed it yet, because I haven't figured out where to attach a wire for the "idiot light".  Currently my engines (8.2L Detroit Diesels) have Delco Remy alternators.  The have the same t-shaped connector as the Balmar.  Each connector has two small wires that go off into a harness, so I assume that I presently have external regulators.  I can hock up the Balmar alternator and regulator so that they will charge the battery bank, because that is obvious, but I don't know how to tie in the "alternator light".  I think I will cut open the harness and follow the wires to find the regulator.  Then the wire to the lights (each engine has a light at each station) may be obvious.  With the original (current) system, one has to rev up the engine once to extinguish the "alternator light" for each engine.

Do you have any ideas?

DavidO



__________________
David M. Oates

42 Uniflite SE II, Adventure
San Francisco Bay Area
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AlanC
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: May 27 2008
Posts: 15
Posted: June 17 2008 at 22:46 | IP Logged Quote AlanC

Hi BoateRDavid.
On my old alternators the "lamp" terminal was labeled "61" and the alternator light was a small black lead. It shared the terminal with an Orange lead from my old external voltage regulator.

On my new alternators the "lamp" terminal is labelled "D+" and the small black lead resides there alone because the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. So, you need a + terminal on your alternator to hook your alt light to. My alternator light also requires an initial rev up to extinguish it but I don't have a problem with it doing that.

The old external voltage regulator had three leads. A Black lead went to "D-", a Green lead went to "DF (or field if you like)", and the "Orange lead as mentioned above went to "61" which is D+ on the new alternator. As well,  the "D-" terminal on the old alternator was jumpered with a black jumper to the "DF" terminal on the alternator.

You probably know the following already, but I'll say it anyway for others reading this.
The rules are + terminals are positive,  - terminals are grounds, "W" is for tachometer(not used for my installation), B+ is for battery positive, B- is for battery negative, D+ is for indicator light. 1)Always disconnect battery before disconnecting old alternator or connecting new one. 2)Work from a wiring diagram if possible, 3) if you are not 100% sure of your connections seek help from a PRO before reconnecting battery cables.  Blown fuses, melted wiring and shorted alternator diodes will cost you.
The folks at Balmar can probably help you lot better than me. They make a very high quality product. You made an excellent choice.

I hope some of this is a help.





__________________
Alan C.
Port Alberni, BC, Canada
1981 Uniflite 36 DC "First Class"
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BoatRDavid
"Seaman"




Joined: December 14 2006
Posts: 46
Posted: June 19 2008 at 20:55 | IP Logged Quote BoatRDavid

Wow Alan,

That is a rather detailed description/discussion!  Now I have to go and study my system and the electrical diagrams.  I'm not actually working on this project right now, but I will report back when I do.

Thanks, DavidO



__________________
David M. Oates

42 Uniflite SE II, Adventure
San Francisco Bay Area
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nls79
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: July 17 2007
Posts: 5
Posted: July 07 2008 at 13:01 | IP Logged Quote nls79

Alan,

I have a 1976 uniflite 36 aft cabin and I am glad to read your post. I have kept my boat in great shape and I have a 4 battery bank. I was surprised last summer when I was cruising for several hrs at nights my lights got dimmer and dimmer. I was thinking about the alternators and I will now have to look into them.

Happy Cruising

 

Neal Sullivan

Peekskill NY

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