Posted: April 10 2008 at 08:56 | IP Logged

Hi, I just bought a 1997 Donzi 3250. Boat is great, Do you still have yours?

Here are some problems: 1.) Rain water leaks into rear Bunk. Do not know how it is getting in. Any ideas?

2.) Some Yellowing of Gel coat above water line.

Thanks  TK

Posted: April 13 2008 at 09:47 | IP Logged

 Hi guys I also have a 1996 3250. I have some of the same problems. Water in the aft cabin and the yellowing on the side of the hull.

I thought the yellow my have come from when the guy shrink wraped the boat. Maybe to much heat to the gel coat.

I have not figured out where the water is coming from. I am looking at the canvas, where it comes down the back side of arch. When it rains I always get water running down the arch and into the cockpit. Which I think maybe finding its way the the aft cabin. 

Posted: April 14 2008 at 13:28 | IP Logged

Hi Donzi 3250 owners, I have found the leak in the front Bunk. It was leaking from the Anchor Locker Water Weap thru hole, Donzi did not Sleve this tru hole and water was seaping back into the boat thru a defect in the fiberglass. (Hollow in the hull in which the Anchor locker Drain was drilled), I put a sleeve in and this stopped the front leak. I also found the Engine compartment Rain watwer leak. It seems the Donzi Air Vents on the sides allow water to flow down thru the Cut holes in the hull under the DONZI covers, I fixed this by using Plastic For sale signs and cutting 1/2 inch strips and glued them (4200) around the holes, this way leaving a 1/4 over hang around the circles. This causes the rainwater to run around the air vents and not into them. As for the rear Bunk, I still cannot find the leak, I to get water in the rear cockpit but cannot see how it is getting into the rear bunk? It has a total Fiberglass liner that is seperated from the rear cockpit? If you find something let me know.

PS, I have twin 455 Carburated, I think I get real lousy gas milage, What do you get? I am hoping for below 20 GPH at 28 Knotts.

-TK

Posted: April 14 2008 at 22:00 | IP Logged

TK

I have floscans on my boat. I also have twin 454 carb with bravo III drives.

At 3000 rpm I am doing about 30 mph and I burn 25 GPH total

Posted: April 15 2008 at 09:27 | IP Logged

inhotwater,  wow, thats what I think I am getting also, I need to slow down I guess to try to get 20GPH,  Do you know the model Flo Scan you have?

Is it 5532-264-2?   Is it the twinscan unit? Where is the sensor hooked up? is it before or after the fuel pump? 

I just changed all Manifolds to GLM, need to hook up some kind of Engine Flush for salt water (had a MST Guardian unit on old boat but they want $350 each)

Do you have any Flushing Kit on yours?

Thanks, Have a good Spring.

TK

Posted: April 15 2008 at 18:19 | IP Logged

I did get the twin scan. Model 3FS023U2 Also added the twin tachs.  I have the sensor after the fuel pump and before the carb.

I am also adding the perko flusher to the inlet hose from the drive to the sea water pump. I am going to tie the fresh water system from my boat the the flusher. Going to put a valve to turn the fresh water on/off to the flusher. So anytime I want to flush the motor all I have to do is to turn the valve, and by either my fresh water pump or by city water pressure it will open the flusher. Then just run my engine and it will flush out the engine.

I did put stainless marine manifold and risers on about 2 years ago, also I have a closed cooling system on the boat.

Where are you boating at? I am in Maryland upper Chesapeake Bay.

Ray 

Posted: April 16 2008 at 08:35 | IP Logged

Ray, looks like that setup will give years of care free service, those SS Manifolds are nice, the only thing I don't like is that Perko flush kit, if it was made with Stainless I t would be better, that plastic worries me being it is mounted below the water line it can crack and leak.   I boat on Long Island, this will be my first year with this boat. Last year after I bought it I had it @ 55MPH, thats was impressive. I used the Garys Royal Wax/Cleaner on it and it looks brand new.

Hows your outdrives, I noticed that one of mine is original and has some Galvonic corrosion on it and the other is a 04, I bought the Prop nutts with the Zinc on them, I know that Mercruiser had some issues in the late 90s with Bravo III corrosion.  

Thanks for the floscan info..... 

-TK

Posted: April 16 2008 at 21:59 | IP Logged

TK, I also added the prop zincs. Also added the buttons onto the transom which is part of the Mercathode system. My boat is a 1996 with original drives. They doing pretty well, had some corrison issues before buttons were added.

Do you now what ratio drive you have and the prop pitch? I was only able to do about 50mph before I started to add stuff on the boat. Now 45-48mph.

I also had a custom extended swim platform made. It is as wide as the boat and about 4-5'long. It has 4 under water lights installed under platform. Also a Hurley davit system put on the swim platform. i carry a 11' hard bottom with a 15hp 4stroke on it.

Ray

Posted: April 17 2008 at 09:42 | IP Logged

Hey Ray, thats funny, I also had the extended swim platform put on, brings it up to modern day looks, I have three older style underwater lights, not thru the hull but mounted on abraket on transom, Each leaked water into the units from the power cord until I 4200 them. I have 2.0 ratio drives but have to check the prop pitch.

When you added the buttons to the mercathode system did you get a whole new
Mercathode system or just parallel them to the existing units? Is the Bravo III Anode still attached to the Mercathode system??????

YA that hard buttom Dingy adds some weight to the back.

Well, I am off to Mexico next week with the Kids, so I will talk to you when I get back should be going in the water around 1st week of May.

Good luck, TK

Posted: April 17 2008 at 20:34 | IP Logged

The buttons only have 1 orange wire and connects to the old Mercathode system. Now I have read on outdrives.com that we should add a 2nd  Mercathode system and connect it in parallel to the old one.

I also hope to get in by then. Our club opening is May 17th." REYC.org"  I have been busy working on it. I am replacing all the boots and bellows, shift cable, trim senders and the  Mercathode system that is bolted to the bottom of the gimbal housing. Also putting on a Garmin 3210 chartplotter with a 24nm radar.

After I get it cleaned up some I will have to send you some pics.

Where are you heading in Mexico?

Ray

Posted: April 29 2008 at 13:35 | IP Logged

Found the leak in the back Bunk, the starboard Gas Fill needed corking (used 4200) Some how it was making its way in...

-TK

Posted: April 29 2008 at 13:41 | IP Logged

Ray, we went to the Grand Palladium 1 hour out of Cancun, it was great, Been getting the boat ready, should be in soon, I am going to add those Mercthode buttons, Just finished my flushing system, made a Manifold out of all Brass fittings that send water to the Bottom of the Engine Block and to each side of the thermostat (used a Tee fitting cut into the hose), When I turn the water on it flows thru the block and Both sides of the Manifolds and flushs out the salt without running the engines........(this is exactly what the MST Guardian system did but for 1/4 the cost)

        sweet......................................

Posted: April 29 2008 at 14:06 | IP Logged

Ray here is a picture:

Posted: April 30 2008 at 15:53 | IP Logged

I've been fighting that rear bunk leak as well. I'm convinved it's from the windshield. I've sealed all the screws securing it but I'm still getting water passing by it.

In regards to the outdrives, I've been using POR-15 Hardnose paint every other year and it's been workign well. Basically, it's colored Krazy Glue. I'm glad to see some toher owners on here, I haven't checked this site in awhile.

Posted: May 01 2008 at 07:02 | IP Logged

faverod, Do you have Big Blocks with Bravo III? If so whats your Fuel Burn rate?

        Thanks, TK

Posted: May 02 2008 at 07:35 | IP Logged

Faverod, I don't see how those flow meters should of slowed you done at all.   Boat looks good, hope you have a good season.

-TK