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Topic: 89 Bayliner Capri - Need HELP

Author Message Prev Topic | Next Topic  Texas "Seaman Recruit" Joined: August 08 2007 Posts: 1 Posted: August 08 2007 at 17:30 | IP Logged We recently obtained a 89 Bayliner Capri that was been uncovered for over 10 years....eeks!!!!  It has less than 70 hours...  I have a couple of questions.  1)We are having to gut it out completely.  Any suggestions on the best way to do it around the seats? and how to lay a new floor?  2) We have replaced the starter, condenser, rooter caps, points and gas filters.  It will turn over but it will not stay running when you let the starter off.  Any suggestions?  3)  I have googled for a wiring manual and/or owners manual but no luck.  Any suggestions?  Sorry for any misspelled words...typing for the husband.  :)  :confused: __________________ Texas Boater Back to Top    barneybutler "Seaman Recruit" Joined: August 13 2007 Posts: 5 Posted: August 13 2007 at 15:17 | IP Logged wow you picked a big project. don't go around the seats remove them. then cut down the middle of the floor where you know it won't cut the hull. start removing small sections of the floor until you reach the hull at the edges of the floor. sand this area smooth but don't go into the hull fiber glass. next take some stiff card board and cut pieces to simulate a new floor and tape them together.  [when you are finished it should look like a floor made of cardboard.] then remove the cardboard in one piece if possible [if not the largest sections that will come out in one piece and rigid just like plywood]  then use the card board to mark and cut a piece of marine grade plywood.  cut the plywood 1/2" larger than the cardboard.  then bevel the edges in ward down around the entire piece [except where two pieces meet] this will match the hull angle.  Now mix up some fiber glass resin [follow directions on can] Mix enough to fill the gap between the hull and the new plywood all the way around where it meets. let that harden.  Next rough sand [80 grit] the area 3 to 4" up the hull and the entire plywood.  cut some strips of fiber glass 6" by about 12 to 18" and lay them between the plywood and the hull bridging the joint equally.  work around the entire floor.  let that harden, the sand that with 80 grit.  Now cut a large piece of mat like you did the plywood except  4 to 6" larger on all sides.  lay it on the new plywood and trim so that you can have an over lap all the war around the hull/ floor joint.  it helps to tack it down with stapples [make sure the staples are flush and don't stick up above the mat.  now mix enough resin to coat the entire floor and start at the highest part and "wet" the fiberglass until you have resin soaked completely into the mat.  [the color will be the same] pull the excess down as you work [extra resin doesn't make it stronger]  just enough to wet the mat.   work your way down and out of the boat.  let this harden and if you want a finished look use resin with a color in it.  You can sand the final coat with 360 grit and add the color coat of resin or urethane type paint.  If you are going to put carpet down then you don't need the color coat. The engine: One of the most important things you can do is change the oil before you try anything else.  If the oil is bad [10 years is a long time for oil] you will cause a lot of damage trying to start it with the old oil.  Change the oil and filter then remove th spark plugs [at this point I usually add a little oil to the cylinders to protect the rings and cylinder walls you have already cranked the engine so this is not needed you can still do it just in case.] and crank the engine over for a minute this will fill the filter with oil and pressurize the system while the engine is not under a load like compression/ ignition.  Then you can put  NEW plugs back in.  [OLD RUSTY PLUGS WILL MISFIRE] as far as the motor is concerned you will need good gas to make it run.  If the boat was sitting for 10 years the gas in it won't run anything.  Drain, pump, or siphon the gas out of the tank and put new gas into the tank.  Then pour a table spoon of gas down inside the carb.  [Air filter off pour the gas then put it back on] crank the engine and if it starts and runs a few seconds then you ignition is probably ok.  ***DON'T KEEP POURING GAS DOWN IT WHILE CRANKING OR RUNNING, IT MIGHT BACKFIRE AND CATCH FIRE.  If it runs and then dies it is probably the float in the carb is stuck.  Try tapping on the top and side of the carb lightly around where the fuel line goes into it.  this might unstick the needle from the seat and start the gas flowing.  You may have to crank it for a minute to pump the gas from the tank.  It helps to put some gas into the carb through the vent on top.  look at the top [air filter off] and you will see a metal tube about 1/4" diameter.  This is the float bowl vent and if you pour a small amount of gas into the vent it will fill the float bowl.  [the float bowl holds about 3 to 4 oz.] this will allow the engine to run for about 20 to 30 seconds sometimes longer depending on other factors.  Doing this will keep you from having to crank it until the gas pumps from the tank.  The engine running will pump faster and should bring the pressure up quickly.  If the float is un stuck you engine should keep running.  [ make sure the choke is closed most of the way  otherwise it won't get enough gas to keep running.]  If it doesn't keep running try removing the fuel line from the carb and put the end from the tank into a bucket and crank the engine to see if the pump is working.  If not replace it.  If it is working go ahead and remove the carb and rebuild it or take it someplace to do it. I have seen mud daubers nests in carbs and intake manifolds, as well as rust locking up any moving part.   your best bet is to use a process of elimination. I usually start with the ignition, check to see if there is a spark at a plug wire then manually check the timing.[ask and I will tell you how to do it]  If those are ok then the problem is probably fuel. I check to see if there is "good new" fuel getting to the carb, then if the float bowl is filling.  check the choke for proper operation.  If it still doesn't start I check compression in each cylinders.  They should be at least 120psi to 160psi and should be within 10 psi of each other.  If not, Blah, Blah, Blah.  It goes on and on. You didn't say in your post what experience you have with boats, I would assume not much so you need to get advise before you act on anything short of putting out a fire.  The reason I say this is from my own experience trying to fix something and making it worse.  If you changed the oil before you started trying to run the engine great.  If you still have the old oil and you  are cranking it all you are doing is pumping sludge and water through the bearings and the rings/cylinders.  Also the cylinders may have had rust on them and cranking will cause the rings to scrape the rust off and score the cylinders.  This will cause loss of compression.  Good luck, I hope you get it going. Barney barneybutler@hotmail.com __________________ Barney Back to Top    fishntoss "Seaman Recruit" Joined: August 14 2008 Posts: 5 Posted: August 15 2008 at 03:45 | IP Logged  Just joined this forum and wanted to know if anything had been done to the boat project??   __________________ 2000 Bayliner 180LX Bowrider Back to Top    barneybutler "Seaman Recruit" Joined: August 13 2007 Posts: 5 Posted: August 15 2008 at 16:14 | IP Logged Sense I posted the description of how to get started with the project we haven't heard anything yet.  He may have gotten discouraged or been too busy to post an update. Barney __________________ Barney Back to Top

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